Author Topic: How can you create skins?  (Read 452 times)

Offline Rafe35

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How can you create skins?
« on: April 05, 2004, 09:25:30 PM »
I have alot trouble that I really don't know how to make skins for every aircraft for AH2 and does anyone could give me some info about "How to make Skins?"

BTW Do I need a Adobe Photoshop?
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Offline moot

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How can you create skins?
« Reply #1 on: April 06, 2004, 01:18:55 AM »
I don't remember where, but I think either or both the terrain editor and the screenshots forums have some hints or tutorial walk throughs.

A graphical program with layering tools will help you a lot.
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Offline Rafe35

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How can you create skins?
« Reply #2 on: April 06, 2004, 06:51:40 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by moot
I don't remember where, but I think either or both the terrain editor and the screenshots forums have some hints or tutorial walk throughs.

A graphical program with layering tools will help you a lot.
Well I have Jasc Paint Shop Pro 7.0 and they really didn't tell much info about Layer tools.  I really want to create skins so bad and is there anything to how to do skins on website?
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Offline technic

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How can you create skins?
« Reply #3 on: April 06, 2004, 10:17:59 PM »

Offline Rafe35

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How can you create skins?
« Reply #4 on: April 06, 2004, 10:40:21 PM »
Heh this is going be alot harder
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Offline Greebo

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How can you create skins?
« Reply #5 on: April 07, 2004, 09:12:47 AM »
This is a pretty big subject but I'll give it a go.

First of all you need to take a look at the existing AH2 skin. Right click on the plane you want to skin in the AH2 Hangar and save it. This creates a subdirectory in the skins folder containing all the art files for that aircraft. Most of these files are instruments etc. and can be deleted. The external art is in two 1024/1024 res 256 colour files.

Open these in PSP. You first need to determine whether you can actually achieve your scheme. AH art often has limitations and occasionally bugs which makes it impossible to get some schemes to work. Sometimes one piece of art does double duty for more than one part of the aircraft, i.e. left wing panel art is flipped over to double as the right panel. Another common problem is where pieces of art are stretched to infinity across parts of the airframe. This is usually the top and bottom edges of the fuselage or around the cowling.

Once you have found a suitable scheme create a new folder in the skins folder. For a P51D you would create a p51d1 folder to go with the original p51d folder. Copy the files you are going to modify in the new folder. Open these in PSP and increase the colour depth to 16 million colours. Most of the neat tricks PSP can do only work with this colour depth. You may also want to increase the resolution of the image to 2048/2048 (image/resize). This improves quality but makes the finished psp files much larger. I made the mistake of going to 3072/3072 and ended up with files of almost a gigabyte each, very sluggish. I'd think 2048 should be OK if you have a 512mb or ram or more and a modern PC. Once you have done this save the new files as a psp image.

One of the main reasons for going to 16 million colours is it enables layers. Layers can be thought of as invisible sheets of tracing paper. You draw/paint on each layer and lay one on top of the other to create the finished image. PSP lets you reorder layers, make them more or less transparent or completely invisible. They also make editing much more simple. You can move a hatch on one layer a few inches without it effecting the paintwork underneath or the oil streak running across it.

What I do is create the panel line, fastener and rivet layers first. These usually need a lot of mucking about until they fit properly and everything else (colour scheme, weathering etc.) needs to fit round them. One thing I have found is that it is also better to have seperate layers for horizontal and vertical lines. This makes them easier to edit.

To start with your image will have only one layer labelled "background", this is the original AH2 art. To create a new layer first make sure the layer pallette is toggled to "on" and click on the "create layer" icon in the layer pallette. Label it something like "panel lines, horizontal". Once you get to 40 layers or so it can get hard to find stuff, so think hard about how you are going to label all the layers.

Once you have the panel/rivet layers created you can start drawing your lines etc. I've found it best to stick to one layer as much as possible when working. It is very easy to do a load of work on the wrong layer. While this often just means copying and pasting or relabelling the layer, sometimes it can ruin hours of work.

A couple of tricks you can use while editing panel lines. First, make all the lines a bright colour to start with. You can always use the "colour replacer" tool to turn them back to black later. This makes any line mismatches between different panels easier to spot, particularly if you create a temporary plain coloured layer beneath all the lines. Another technique is to create a copy of each panel or rivet line layer and save it as a new layer on top of the first. Turn this layer's lines to white with the colour replacer then offset it a pixel or two up or down and to one side. This gives the lines an edge where the light is glinting off them. Use the layer transparency sliders to adjust the brightness of these layers. Also think about keeping the relative lighting angle consistent between layers if you do this. Take a close look at some of the default AH2 art to see this technique.

Once you have got to a stage where you want to see what your skin looks like in AH2, save each file, then do a "save as". Save the images as a bmps into the "p51d1" (or whatever) folder. Open these bmps (not the psps) and resize them to 1024/1024, then reduce the colours to 256. For the reduce colours options I use "optimised octree", "error diffusion" and "reduce colour bleeding".

One other thing before you can view them, create a text file with notepad called "p51d1.txt" or whatever your plane is. This should have a 20 or less character description of the skin. You will see this in the Hangar's drop down menu in the game. Save the text file in the same folder as the bmps.

Start up the game and select your art from the drop down menu in the hangar. Fly your plane and take loads of closeup screenshots from all angles. Exit the game and view the screenshots. Pay particular attention to stretched texture areas and where panels come together, i.e. wingroots. Make a list of adjustments then reedit your psps. Repeat as necessary.

Once you have done the panel lines etc, start on the colour scheme, then do the weathering etc. You need to think about exact order of the layers, but usually it is scheme on the bottom, then weathering, then panel lines on top. Some pieces like radial engines can be created as seperate images and pasted in when completed. This cuts down on the number of layers. Good luck. :)
« Last Edit: April 07, 2004, 09:31:47 AM by Greebo »

Offline Citabria

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How can you create skins?
« Reply #6 on: April 07, 2004, 09:57:38 AM »
here is my first 1024 skin I started it in 1024 res but will likely make the next one in 2048 then reducing it after seeing greebos excellent results with this method. the pics show how to use aircraft plans and paste them over the skin as a guide for panel lines.

using actual aircraft plans with rivet and panel line detail is very helpful if your interested in accurately detailing the skin. the more detail there is the more the skin can sell the 3d model as being an accurate depiction of a real aircraft and its a necassay first step if your making a 1024 skin from a 256 template. but remember not to overdo it. you want this microdetailng to show up only when in the cockpit view or when looking closeup externally. you wont see rivets on a real plane from any distance either so adjust the transparency of the panel and rivet lines to your tastes.

once you find good plans cut and paste them as a layer then scale and stretch them to fit over the frame of the 3d model using the origional 256 or 1024 skin as a reference. make sure you make the panel lines and rivets as separate layers. i made the mistake my first attempt of drawing the panel lines on a grey background and it was unusable on the camo skin layer lol. once you have the panel lines and rivets next logical step is add a camoflage paint layer. this can be one layer or separate layers for each color. doing separate layers per color allows more flexibility in adjustments. using accurate references on the camo design is very helpful. camoflaged p40s use the standard british cmoflage pattern when they roll off the curtiss assembly line except curtiss didnt use actual british paints, instead they used their interpretation of them which in some instances was quite different. then field depots when repainting the aircraft used whatever paint was on hand for even further variations from the standard. the paint especially olive drab also fades rapidly making it lighter and splotchy on top where the sun hits it.

adding markings and nose art should be done on separate layers also. It is important to make every marking including the nose art transparent enough to blend into the plane and not look like its pasted on. this is an old trick but its very effective. even chipped paint should have some tranparency to blend it into the aircraft. the nose art can be quite elaborate on some planes

another fun part is weathering. knowing how real aircraft get chipped paint and where they leak oil and how the exhaust follows the slipstream is fun stuff to think about and helpful to fill in the gaps where you dont have good photoreference. but its best to work from real photos if you want a realistic result. some general rules are:

chipped paint results from a few things:
1. no primer undercoat or defective paint (common on some japanese planes and field painted american planes but dont overdo it!)
2. wear and tear from ground crew and pilots climbing and servicing the airplane. ammo hatches fuel oil hatches ussually show some wear after a while. (on fighters more paint will be rubbed away on the left side than the right on many occasions because this is the side pilots climbed on)
3. the propeller throwing debris and dirt at high velocity on takeoff impacting the leading edge of the wing within the propeller arc ussually at the wing roots and surrounding areas.

oil and fuel stains.
avgas vaporizes extremely fast and although on modern aircraft it is tinted blue and leaves the blue dye when it evaporates no other trace of it remains. though it does fade the paint after a while im not sure if 87 or 100 octain fuel was color dyed in ww2 but i would asume it wasnt. as always try to use phot references if you want this area showing signs of weathering.

oil stains on the other hand will leave a very transparent dark shading on the areas they cover that will get more pronounced as dirt and grime stick to the oil. the dirt and grime adds more filth to the oil wich will get darker as the plane is used due to the oil building up on the underside of the fuselage. you can see some faint oil streaks on the propellor hub from the prop control mechanism and sometimes on the cowling if its an inline engine but this is very minute amounts nothing that can be seen from far away.

the actual exhaust stains result from both the paint being faded away due to the heat of the exhaust and also from the exhaust itself leaving smoke residue on the fuselage. its good to use phot references on this as well because the exhaust does not flow straight back as you might expect. it always follows the sliptream and this sometimes forces the exhaust upwards ordownwards depending on the location of the exhaust and the wing.

other details:
nav lights: left wing is red, right wing is green BUT unlit green nav lights will apear dark blue.




hope this helps.



« Last Edit: April 07, 2004, 11:17:08 AM by Citabria »
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Offline Rafe35

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How can you create skins?
« Reply #7 on: April 07, 2004, 04:39:35 PM »
Thank you, guys and I'll give a try.

!

Rafe
Rafe35
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Offline Rafe35

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How can you create skins?
« Reply #8 on: April 07, 2004, 09:13:21 PM »
Well, Here's my first skins and i don't think i did it right, because i was trying to make it first production Vought F4U-1 Corsair / Bu No 02153 in 1942.



Well? :D
Rafe35
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