Author Topic: Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26  (Read 953 times)

Offline Krusty

  • Radioactive Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 26745
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« on: July 30, 2004, 01:24:55 AM »
I present to you: U8+BB

BOB-era bf110C4B skin (mostly done). Note the nose art. It is accurate, except for the mirroring on the opposite side.



Offline ramzey

  • Gold Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3223
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2004, 02:56:53 AM »
refferences?

Offline Polaris

  • Zinc Member
  • *
  • Posts: 85
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« Reply #2 on: July 30, 2004, 08:11:08 AM »
Outstanding sir!

Offline Krusty

  • Radioactive Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 26745
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« Reply #3 on: July 30, 2004, 11:15:36 AM »
References are:

The paint style of the time, a 72nd scale decal sheet (with profile of the craft, albeit a small profile) and some artwork (a painting) depicting the plane.

All, naturally, adapted for AH2's skins


[EDIT] Do you think the sides should be "greener" and lighter? I need to tone down the panel lines a tad, as well. Other than that I want to get it done and submitted for the BOB scenario

[EDIT 2] I'm also looking for tips on how to get the U8+BB to stand out more... it's all too dark for my tastes....
« Last Edit: July 30, 2004, 11:36:24 AM by Krusty »

Offline United

  • Gold Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2536
      • http://squadronspotlight.netfirms.com
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« Reply #4 on: July 30, 2004, 01:15:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Krusty
[EDIT 2] I'm also looking for tips on how to get the U8+BB to stand out more... it's all too dark for my tastes....

You could always do a light shadowing effect. Just a single pixelwide light white color would probably do the trick without making it look unrealistic.

Offline Wotan

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7201
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« Reply #5 on: July 30, 2004, 02:02:56 PM »
A couple of things...

1st here's what the  Bf 110C U8+BB  Hptm. Gunther Sprecht I./ ZG 26 looked like.  



2nd the 110C we have in AH is a 110C-4/B with DB601N engines and was only used by Erprobungsgruppe 210 in BoB.

Offline Krusty

  • Radioactive Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 26745
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« Reply #6 on: July 30, 2004, 02:22:09 PM »
1) I said BOB-era, not BOB aircraft :P

2) I saw that skin (the image you posted). I used it for confirmation that there was, in fact, a splinter camo on the top (instead of the solid green that AH2 currently has).

So you're saying my "blotches" are too big?

Hrm... I guess I could re-do them. I've never done them before. Any feedback would be helpful. I tried using the airbrush tool and making some shapes, then putting an outter glow on that layer to soften their edges out to the layers behind them.

Offline Wotan

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7201
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« Reply #7 on: July 30, 2004, 02:58:23 PM »
Quote
1) I said BOB-era, not BOB aircraft :P


That’s not the point. It would be like skinning a 109G-2 as a G-4. HTC may or may not except that. It’s not an 110C-4 it’s a different plane all together.

Quote
2) I saw that skin (the image you posted). I used it for confirmation that there was, in fact, a splinter camo on the top (instead of the solid green that AH2 currently has).


Even though the wings are mirrored the camo pattern is off. The colors are dark but that maybe because of the AH2 lighting.

The "splotches" or mottle are over sized and over "bold". That’s why your numbers don’t stand out. Create a separate layer for the mottle. Use the air brush tool but add opacity. After you get the mottle set blur it a bit to diffuse the edges. You may need to add a little more opacity until it look like paint over spray rather then blobs of paint.

The panel lines look as if they are just drawn over top the camo. I don’t see any rivets lines.

Duplicate your panel line layer 3 times.

On one create a negative image so that it is white.

On the other blur it enough so that it looks like dirt.

The burred or dirt should be on the bottom then the white. Offset the white back 1 pixel and down 1 pixel. This will create a highlight. The original panel line will be on top.

If you have rivet lines do the same.

Set the blurred / lines rivets as "burn". The adjust opacity on all 3 layers until you get a subtle look.

To make it look really good you will want all your offsets to go the same way so this may mean multiple layers etc..

I don’t have Ah2 installed any more but I have several skins in game (batz) Check those to see what I mean.

I don’t have time to go through it all but you get the idea.

Offline Krusty

  • Radioactive Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 26745
Bf110C4b 1/ZG 26
« Reply #8 on: July 30, 2004, 03:44:31 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Wotan
That’s not the point. It would be like skinning a 109G-2 as a G-4. HTC may or may not except that. It’s not an 110C-4 it’s a different plane all together.



They have said they will, within reason. And a 110C4 vs a 110C4B is a small difference, considering we only have the c4b and the g2 (or is it G4? Whatever). It's close enough.


Quote
Originally posted by Wotan
Even though the wings are mirrored the camo pattern is off. The colors are dark but that maybe because of the AH2 lighting.


Yes, they are different. Because I have modeled several different luftwaffe planes, I know a few things (not a lot) about LW camo and splinter, and that image does not reflect the norms. Keep in mind it is only a skin, a representation, of the original. A grain of salt must be taken. I feel that the camo I chose more closely reflects the historic pattern than does that of the IL2 skin.


Quote
Originally posted by Wotan
The "splotches" or mottle are over sized and over "bold". That’s why your numbers don’t stand out. Create a separate layer for the mottle. Use the air brush tool but add opacity. After you get the mottle set blur it a bit to diffuse the edges. You may need to add a little more opacity until it look like paint over spray rather then blobs of paint.

SNIP...


Thanks for the suggestions. That's the help I really needed. I'll work on that to try to make it look better.

Re: panel lines: I'm not totally done with them. I think they stand out too much and are too "flat" as you mentioned. I will work with drop shadow effects to give them all a highlight along a common direction.