Any Mechanics out there?

[midnight Target]

Changing the brake pads on a 2002 pontiac grand am. Something seems to be holding the caliper assy and not allowing it to pivot off of the pads. WTF? anyone familiar with this stuff? It feels like a clip of some kind, but danged if I can find it.

[Hawklore]

Let a professional deal with it...

[kevykev56]

Changing the brake pads on a 2002 pontiac grand am. Something seems to be holding the caliper assy and not allowing it to pivot off of the pads. WTF? anyone familiar with this stuff? It feels like a clip of some kind, but danged if I can find it.

Not sure what you mean by "Pivot off the Pads". Normally you remove the caliper by removing the two attaching bolts. Then the entire caliper assembly comes off and you remove the pads that are usually held on by a clip. You will need to compress the caliper with a C clamp Install the new pads and reverse the removal to install. I have done many sets of brakes and never had a prob. It would be cheaper to goto autozone buy the Hanes or Chiltons book for your car and do the repair yourself than to take it to a mechanic. Its easy, just make sure you have all the right tools, if you dont then buy them. Always better to have more tools than you may ever need than not to have the right one.


RHIN0

[midnight Target]

Figured it out.

I've done many disc brake changes too. This car requires you to compress the cylinder before moving the caliper assy.

Thanks anyway.

[Morpheus]

Yep Midnight, any wear in your rotor will cause a ride. When the caliper is just resting there the pads ride inside that ridge causing them to grab on the ridge when you go to take the caliper off.

[Boroda]

Originally posted by Hawklore
Let a professional deal with it...

Until there are people who sincerely believe that you have to be a professional to change brake pads - I'll not have any problems with paying my bills.

I don't own a car and never applied for a driver's license. But I love people who boast that they have found a place where they got oil changed in their VW Passat for only $50 !!!

[vorticon]

Originally posted by Hawklore
Let a professional deal with it...

he's not gay.

[zmeg]

You really should let a dealer do that job for you unless you can afford new rotors every 10 to 15k. GrandAm rotors have to be shimed to bring runout to less than .001" or they will start to pulsate within 15,000 miles, only the dealer has the tools and training to do this.


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Brake Rotor Assembled Lateral Runout (LRO) Correction - Correction Plates
Tools Required
J 39544-KIT Torque-Limiting Socket Set, or equivalent
J 45101-100 Conical Brake Rotor Washers

Important
Brake rotor thickness variation MUST be checked BEFORE checking for assembled lateral runout (LRO). Thickness variation exceeding the maximum acceptable level can cause brake pulsation. Refer to Brake Rotor Thickness Variation Measurement .
Brake rotor assembled lateral runout (LRO) exceeding the maximum allowable specification can cause thickness variation to develop in the brake rotor over time, usually between 4 800-11 300 km (3,000-7,000 mi). Refer to Brake Rotor Assembled Lateral Runout (LRO) Measurement .


 


Rotate the brake rotor to position the high spot, identified and marked during the brake rotor assembled LRO measurement procedure, to face upward.
Remove the J 45101-100 and the lug nuts that were installed during the assembled LRO measurement procedure and/or the indexing correction procedure.
Inspect the mounting surface of the hub/axle flange and the brake rotor to ensure that there are no foreign particles or debris remaining.
Select the correction plate, following the manufacturer's instructions, which has a specification closest to the assembled LRO measurement. For example: If the assembled LRO measurement was 0.076 mm (0.003 in), the 0.076 mm (0.003 in) correction plate would be used. If the measurement was 0.127 mm (0.005 in), the 0.152 mm (0.006 in) correction plate would be used.
Determine the positioning for the correction plate (1) using the high spot mark (3) made during the brake rotor assembled LRO measurement procedure.

Important
Do NOT install used correction plates in an attempt to correct brake rotor assembled lateral runout (LRO).
Do NOT stack up, or install more than one correction plate onto one hub/axle flange location, in an attempt to correct brake rotor assembled LRO.

Install the correction plate (1) onto the hub/axle flange, with the V-shaped notch (2) orientated to align with the high spot mark (3), that was positioned to face upward.
 


Install the brake rotor to the hub/axle flange. Use the matchmark made prior to removal for proper orientation to the flange.
Hold the rotor firmly in place against the hub/axle flange and install one of the J 45101-100  (1) and one lug nut (2) onto the upper-most wheel stud.
Continue to hold the rotor secure and tighten the lug nut firmly by hand.
 


Install the remaining J 45101-100 and lug nuts onto the wheel studs and tighten the nuts firmly by hand in a star-pattern.
Using the J 39544-KIT , or equivalent, tighten the lug nuts in a star-pattern to specification, in order to properly secure the rotor. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels.
Measure the assembled LRO of the brake rotor. Refer to Brake Rotor Assembled Lateral Runout (LRO) Measurement .
If the brake rotor assembled LRO measurement still exceeds the maximum allowable specification, refer to Brake Rotor Assembled Lateral Runout (LRO) Correction .
If the brake rotor assembled LRO measurement is within specification, install the brake caliper and depress the brake pedal several times to secure the rotor in place before removing the J 45101-100 and the lug nuts.

[rpm]

Originally posted by midnight Target
Figured it out.

I've done many disc brake changes too. This car requires you to compress the cylinder before moving the caliper assy.

Thanks anyway.

I was just about to tell you to check that. If the rotor is worn it's a pretty common side effect.