Deadband and Dampning

[Nath-BDP]

I've always wondered what the point of these j/s options is. I've always thought they are for 'less disciplined' pilots who pull too hard on the stick, are there any other uses for them; saves energy better, easier maneuverability?

I seem to do fine without them but I'm wondering if theres any advantages to using them.

Thanks,
Nath


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Geschwaderkommodore JG 54
'Grünherz'

   

[This message has been edited by Nath-BDP (edited 07-15-2000).]

[This message has been edited by Nath-BDP (edited 07-15-2000).]

[Jekyll]

If you've got a joystick that spikes a little around the centre, then increasing the deadband will certainly help.

Same goes for dampening, which acts to 'average out' stick positions.  If your joystick spikes at half deflection for example, increasing dampening will stop those sudden jumps which occur when your joystick hits the bad spot.  Increasing dampening slows down your control deflections it seems (at least it does on my setup), so if you're always getting the "Dont move your joystick so fast" message, try increasing dampening by small increments.

[Ghosth]

Nath

I've got an older Sidewinder 3d Pro thats starting to show some wear.

Not that it spikes so much as that it got over sensitive around the center.

By setting deadband up I removed the oversensitive center from the picture.

Autopilot no longer kicks out just because I breath, or move.

Damper as stated above really can help if you have a stick thats spikeing a bit.

Once I got the Deadband & damping set just right I was able to move the sliders for the stick itself to 100% across the board. Giveing me the maximum possible control input for any given location without spikes or being oversensitive.

Like everything else I've seen in Aces High so far, it's there for a reason.

[AKFokerFoder+]

Ghost, you can add life to your MS SW P Pro by opening it up, and expanding the springs.  If you are handy with tools and mechanically inclined it is pretty straigh forward.  If you are all thumbs with tools, let it be  

I deadbanded my rudders on my MS Pro to keep from moving my ailerons when gunning in a Buff.

[humble]

If you find your over correcting or unable to hold a fine line in T&B fighting the deadbands will help.

[av8or]

how which way do you move the sliders say if i am over correcting in a t&b fight?

[humble]

I just finished F-disking my system and reloading everything. I'm still fooling with settings on JS. you can get a good feel for range of options by altering each component to extreme offline...for ex if you set deadband to 100% you have NO stick input...had to land using trimtabs

Now 100% damping you can still fly but stick is "mushy".

I'm at 20% or so on deadband...45% damping and 100% across the board on sliders...for now.

flew 5-10 hops in TA in yak, not bad (cept it was a yak ) at all. The key is two fold for me...limiting "nose bounce" and loss of control on those min E rev and rudder moves.

I'd rather retain 100% on sliders and use others to maximize "feel".

[eye]

Hmble i think you should put a curve on pitch and yaw.

Roll keep 100%

On both pitch and yaw mine start around 50% and curve up to the right.

For the rudders i would start it even lower say 40%but i get the dreaded "dont move controls so rapidly".

I know we have different jsticks but i think 100% on pitch causes spins stalls to easily.

EYE

[funked]

The deadband should be set so that the trace on the scope in the setup screen does not show any movement unless you move the stick.

Damping is just a filter.  It slows down and smooths out your control movements.  Set this one "to taste".

[This message has been edited by funked (edited 08-15-2000).]