Author Topic: Capt Jack Ilfrey's "Happy Jack's Go Buggy" P-38J submitted (Read 794 times)

oboe · « **on:** February 07, 2005, 01:19:46 PM »

So we'll see. Felt like I coulda gone on tweaking forever.

Gonna start next on George Laven's P-38L "Itsy Bitsy II".

sullie363 · « **Reply #1 on:** February 07, 2005, 01:30:53 PM »

I'd fly it.

Kev367th · « **Reply #2 on:** February 07, 2005, 05:59:00 PM »

Nice Oboe, aint the tweaking thing a beeatch. eventually you have to say enoughs enough.

I sent in -

and

Both earlier pics, finals have different weathering.

Any big diffs panel wise between the 38J and 38L apart from the dive flaps?

oboe · « **Reply #3 on:** February 07, 2005, 07:38:14 PM »

They look great Kev. The only other visible difference between the J and L is the L has a landing light in the left wing leading edge. Its very nicely done in HTC's model.

Kev367th · « **Reply #4 on:** February 07, 2005, 10:45:32 PM »

Thanks Oboe, couldn't have done it without your 'aluminum' file.

What ya think of this one?
Would redo dirt layers/weathering to make it different from others I did.

oboe · « **Reply #5 on:** February 07, 2005, 11:01:53 PM »

It does Bong proud.

Hey I was thinking - maybe we can get around the tiny Japanese flags mushing out by defining a custom brush that IS a Japanese flag, and then using 'pencil' mode (no anti-aliasing in that mode) to apply the flag decals....

I tempted to tell you to tone down the saturation on the spinners. They look awfully intense. There may be something goofy with the texture information for the spinners because no matter what color I paint them they look different than the same color elsewhere on the skin. But, a couple things help - one is to draw in the line that divides the nose cone from the rear half of the spinner, and the other is to add paint chips and oil leaks on the spinner itself. It gives the eye something else to look at. I haven't tried a silver base coat with a semi-transparent color coat yet, but I might.

Oh, you might have trouble altering the dirt/weathering layers - just because I think you hit a home run with these!

Kev367th · « **Reply #6 on:** February 08, 2005, 01:14:00 AM »

Think the problem is that the Japanese flags end up so small I don't think whatever we do will get much of an improvement over what we are using already.
The spinners dont have the specularity attribute, thats why they come out a different color. Although should be able to approximate color on rest of skin, problem with that is the red on the rest ot the skin 'changes' depending on light conditions.

I looked at your one on ah-skins and it gave me a few ideas. I never thought of pre-shading under the boom intakes, but it makes a hell of a difference. I have been pre-shading under wings etc because they always seem lighted no matter which angle you look at them. So I tried it, and yup, looks better (hope you don't mind). Your materials file seems to give a better overall rendition also, I had been using the default P38L one. Yours doesn't wash out the shading as easily.

The overall weathering layer is easy, takes 2 minutes with a program called 'eye candy'

Now if ONLY I could get the hang of paint chips

thebest1 · « **Reply #7 on:** February 08, 2005, 01:21:39 PM »

use a 1 pixel sized brush, not pencil and set the occupacy down, on heavier scratches draw over it about 2-3 times, worked for me !

oboe · « **Reply #8 on:** February 08, 2005, 01:26:35 PM »

Naw, I don't mind - you guys are welcome to whatever works for you. Its good to know my experimenting time isn't going to waste!

The preshading of boom intakes is done on the default P-38L model - that's were I got the idea...