Author Topic: Higher Octane Gas, Mileage & Gas Prices.  (Read 1379 times)

Offline Roscoroo

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Higher Octane Gas, Mileage & Gas Prices.
« Reply #45 on: July 31, 2005, 12:18:36 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by GtoRA2
Yeah I dont think Pontiac ever ran a 11 to 1 motor in a factory car.

Most were 10.25 and 10.50

I think the ram air IV motors were 10.75 to 1.


the 350 horse 400 from my goat that I had rebuilt was 10.5 to 1, but I had TRW forged pistons put in on the rubuilt and had them dished, so the compression was 9.65 to 1.

Ran great on 92, when it was in tune. On really hot days though it would ping a bit, so I always had some octane boost in the trunk.


They are right, unless the car states a higher octane you are just wasting you money running it.



the early 421sd's (61-62 vintage) were 11.5 to 1  they were way underated in hp as for they did the ole pic a rpm and thats what hp it had .. it was actually a 465-485 hp engine .
my '66 RA1 XS 389 also had 11 to 1 and made 426 hp
Frenchy's 455 pont should be 8.5 to 1 with 111 to 115 cc heads on it (if you found a set of "96" casting 455 heads you would have 10 to 1 ) depending on which head gasket used .028,.036 ,.044,.080 ...

now back on the 455 olds id guess its a 8 to 1 engine as for thats what most of the big blocks were in '73


oil changes .... every 2500-3500 miles depending on use and age of engine
as it gets older more fuel gets past rings and exhaust valve guides start to leak and contaminate the oil.
Roscoroo ,
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Offline capt. apathy

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Higher Octane Gas, Mileage & Gas Prices.
« Reply #46 on: July 31, 2005, 09:59:57 AM »
you should run the high octane in the Volvo.

I've put about 150K miles on my 87 765T, and it ends up costing you any of the savings per gallon plus about 20-40% more to run the cheap stuff.

it's designed to run on 91.  it won't ruin your engine from pre-detonation("knock"), since you have a knock-sensor that tells the computer when you've been a cheap-skate and it just retards your timing until the knock goes away, it protects your engine while robbing you off horse-power and gas-mileage in the process.

I get about 20-22mpg on the freeway (sometimes a little less, depending on my ability to go easy on the turbo.) with premium(usually 90 sometimes I can find 92).

about 15-16mpg if it has 87 in it.

I love the late 80's Volvo's.  it's hard to beat a nice, respectable, low-key, 125mph, family car.  I'm almost never late since picking this thing up used about 8 years ago.


BTW- it seems most people I talk to think that the higher octane fuels burn faster and more violently.

thats completely backward.

as octane increases the fuel burns slower and more predictably, allowing you to compress more fuel and air into the cylinder, light it sooner and be able to predict when and how fast it's gonna build pressure in the cylinder.

for better efficiency and more power you want spark before the piston reaches TDC, to the point where it's got a good solid burn as the piston starts down, but not pushing it back down before it makes it over the top.

  "knock" is when the octane is to low and the burn builds to much pressure before the piston has completed it's upward part of the stroke.

also  I read one post that said use injector cleaner and you don't need higher octane gas (can't remember who's it was).  higher octane gas isn't about being cleaner burning. other than allowing you to build a cleaner more efficient engine with more predictable gas.

Offline culero

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« Reply #47 on: July 31, 2005, 10:04:11 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by eskimo2
So how often do you think oil should be changes?

eskimo


Actually, its a moving target. There are several variables I can think of:

1) Average trip duration
2) Ambient temperature conditions
3) Ratio of cruise-to-stop&go operation
4) Age/state of wear of engine

The period of engine warmup is by far the greatest problem area in terms of both engine wear and pollution of the crancase oil. Internal tolerances and oil viscosity are optimized for the engine at normal operating temperature, therefore you must reach that temperature before your lubrication system functions as well as it should. Plus, fuel mixtures and burn efficiency are likewise best when the engine is at normal temperature, your fuel burn is much more dirty both in terms of emissions and pollution of your crankcase while warming up.

So, the more a vehicle is used for short trips, the more stressed your oil will be. In addition to the factors I mentioned already, whenever you shut off your engine and allow it to cool, there is a tendency for atmospheric humidity to produce condensation inside your crankcase. The small amounts of moisture introduced to the internal environment of your engine's lubricated parts combine with by-products of the fuel combustion in the crankcase to create acidic liquid pollution of your oil, which filters simply cannot strain out (they are only good for particulate contamination).

Obviously, colder climates aggravate this.

The nature of your trips is also a factor. An engine in a cruise state at normal temperature is most efficient in terms of fuel mileage, and also in how clean its running. Vehicles running at steady cruise state pollute the air AND their oil much less than vehicles that are accelerated and decelerated frequently.

As Roscoroo correctly pointed out, engines that are older and have more wear pollute their own oil more than newer "tighter" engines.

All this makes it difficult to set a precise mileage for optimal oil change intervals.

Fleets with the best management nowadays utilize oil sampling programs that tell them what's best for their fleets based on laboratory analysis. They leave the oil in there as long as possible, by establishing through sampling just how long it meets acceptable standards.

Obviously, its pretty much impossible to get that precise with individual vehicle owners, they vary in their matchup to all the factors too much and laboratory analysis of oil samples isn't as economically feasible.

Its true that some folks, for instance folks who have engines in really good shape, who tend to start their engine, warm it up quickly, and use it for long intervals at mostly cruise speeds, may be OK with 10,000 mile oil changes. However, that's relatively few people. The more you use shorter trips to accumulate the same number of miles, the colder your environment is, the more you stop and go while on a trip, and the older your engine is, the more frequent your oil change interval should be.

My experience taught me 10-15K miles per year is average for the typical motorist, and that this mileage is achieved via 2 to 3 trips per day. In that duty cycle, I'd recommend a seasonal oil change (Spring-Summer-Fall-Winter).

Hence, the traditional rubrick of about 3K miles per oil change....which is IMO a good rule of thumb for most people.

culero
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Offline culero

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Higher Octane Gas, Mileage & Gas Prices.
« Reply #48 on: July 31, 2005, 10:05:43 AM »
My compliments, capt. apathy, its nice to see someone else who understands what's involved :)

eskimo, as I said I'm not very familiar with Volvos, but capt. apathy is right if they use a knock sensor as a component of their engine management system. Its there to allow use of lower octane fuel, but causes slightly less efficient operation in order to accomplish that.

culero
« Last Edit: July 31, 2005, 10:08:11 AM by culero »
“Before we're done with them, the Japanese language will be spoken only in Hell!” - Adm. William F. "Bull" Halsey