Author Topic: SP101 Ruger (Read 236 times)

GreenCloud · « **on:** November 15, 2005, 10:44:16 PM »

ok..the trigger pull his very heavy..

Do i just "smooth out " trigger sears?..or whats best idea?

Maverick · « **Reply #1 on:** November 15, 2005, 11:10:22 PM »

First off I assume this is a very new revolver.

Second, do NOT touch the sears. Leave them to a qualified gunsmith.

The best way to smooth the action on a revolver and keep it at 100% reliability is to just smooth it by dry firing. Get some snap caps, put them in the cylinder and start snapping. It will take time but the parts wear together and smooth themselves out. Most of the gritty feel you experiance is the machining flaws on the mating surfaces. Work them together a few thousand times and they get slick.

If this is not a new revolver and it has seen some use, take it apart and clean it out thoroughly and see if that makes a difference. Then try the dry firing.

GreenCloud · « **Reply #2 on:** November 16, 2005, 12:24:05 AM »

i have shot about 200 rounds through it..both .38 and.357 mags

...i was thinking new springs..for a less ib. pull

seems like it has a 7lb pull right now

Hangtime · « **Reply #3 on:** November 16, 2005, 02:00:59 AM »

Found this.. heard they had a heavy trigger pull..

Quote

When Ruger introduced the SP101 double-action revolver a dozen years ago, it was well received. First designed as a small-frame .38 Special, the SP101 was considerably lighter and more compact than the .357 Mag. GP100. In addition to .38 Special, .32 Mag., 9mm and (later) .357 Mag. Chamberings, the SP101 was also offered in .22 rim-fire versions. I acquired one of the DA Ruger .22s soon after they became available.

Double-action trigger pull is smooth, breaking at 11 1/2 lbs. with slight stacking at the end. The single-action trigger snaps crisply at 4 lbs. even. Accuracy has been very good. With the right ammo, this gun is capable of 25-yard six-shot groups measuring 2 1/2" between centers.

..Guns Magazine, August, 2000 by Clair Rees

lazs2 · « **Reply #4 on:** November 16, 2005, 08:37:03 AM »

mav is again correct... I have gone the lighter springs route on several rugers and every time... got unreliable ignition..

Make it smooth? if you are really sharp with a lot of experiance you can stone the sear surfaces and flats that... otherwise....

Do as mav says (although I have never owned "snap caps"... Just play cowboys and indians at the tv with the empty revolver... after about 10,000 dry fires you should have the same trigger as the ringer that ruger sent to the gun magazine that hang is talking about.

lazs

straffo · « **Reply #5 on:** November 16, 2005, 08:46:48 AM »

pffff ... easy

Captain Virgil Hilts · « **Reply #6 on:** November 16, 2005, 07:22:11 PM »

I've used Wolff springs in Rugers for years, with no issues. IF you do have misfire problems, simply put the Ruger hammer spring back in.

You MAY experience misfires with CCI/Speer ammunition, or reloads loaded with CCI/Speer primers, as I find them to be VERY hard. I use Federal or Winchester primers. The only CCI/Speer ammo I use is the 45ACP 230 grain flying ashtray.

Unless you are an expert at action jobs, do not mess with the trigger or sear. A small screw up by a novice can cost 3X what an professional action job will.

Anyway, springs are what make the pull heavy. The rough part is simply the finish on the parts. The fit on the parts is where you get take up, creep, over travel, and other problems. Springs will make it light, they won't make it crisp or smooth.

Be aware that we are of course speaking of firearms, and anything you "take" from this post you do so at your own risk. I advise all novice gun owners and aspiring gunsmiths to seek professional help.

Around here, a decent gunsmith will do the springs for you for about $50 including the springs.

lazs2 · « **Reply #7 on:** November 17, 2005, 08:27:56 AM »

cci does have hard primers... I use em in my garand to prevent slam fires...

federal are the softest with WW a bit harder. You should use stock or heavy springs for hammer tho.. Reliable ignition is the most important thing. I have allways every single time no exceptions had problems with lighter hammer springs on revolvers... you can do a little test... Smith and Wessons with the flat mainspring can be "tensioned" to get a lighter pull with the screw near the bottom of the butt... back it off and get a really light double action... no ignition tho...sorry.. work it on up till you get reliable (no misfires in 500 or 1000 rounds) and you will end up with it screwed all the way in.

Every revolver I have every owned got better with simple use.. live and dry fireing.

Some springs like wolf will only missfire every 1000 rounds or so but... That allways pisses me off.. Not acceptable.

Oh.. on Rugers and other frame mounted firing ping guns... run some carb cleaner into the firing pin hole every couple thousand rounds or you will get a buildup of crud that you can't see and can't clean otherwise and will sure as hell cause light primer strikes... if you oil your gun heavily do the carb cleaner thing more often.

lazs