Author Topic: Too hot ...suffuring the over heat blues (Read 1197 times)

capt. apathy · « **Reply #15 on:** July 03, 2006, 01:09:25 PM »

do they make waterblocks for the video card?

also, won't having the radiator installed like they have shown just pump the hot air back into the case heating up other parts?

I'm in no hurry to go water cooled, since my processor rarely goes over 130F.

I wonder how hot the video card gets though. I don't have any kind of monitor on it and it's always seemed a design flaw to me the way they build video cards to sit below the intake fan with all the hot parts on the underside of the card.

I have a small duct from my small window AC unit that is clipped to the back of my case at the intake fan. it keeps the CPU and MB very cool (72F CPU & 76F MB right now) but the design takes the video card out of the path of the cool air.

DAVENRINO · « **Reply #16 on:** July 03, 2006, 03:04:50 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by capt. apathy
do they make waterblocks for the video card?

Yes.

Quote

Originally posted by capt. apathy
also, won't having the radiator installed like they have shown just pump the hot air back into the case heating up other parts?

My first water setup was internal with the fans drawing air through the rad and exiting the case. One BayReservoir leak caused me to move everything external. I have a car hearter core with 2 shrouded 120s sitting in an open window facing the ocean breeze. I built a box to house the BayRes and Enheim 1250 pump. It is quiet and works well but klunky if I need to get inside the tower since it is enclosed in my desk.

Quote

Originally posted by capt. apathy
I have a small duct from my small window AC unit that is clipped to the back of my case at the intake fan. it keeps the CPU and MB very cool (72F CPU & 76F MB right now) but the design takes the video card out of the path of the cool air.

Any problems with condensation?

Hajo · « **Reply #17 on:** July 03, 2006, 04:56:56 PM »

OK Roos suggested Big Water Cooling kit came today. This is a lot of work. I have to tear down the motherboard to get the CPU plate off the back of it and install another cpu support plate provided by thermaltake.

I don't know if the CPU support plate will come off the ASUS AV8 Mobo. I have the athlon64 4000+ and you have to remove the existing heatsink and fan socket.

This is an all day project if you have a PC already assembled. I'll have to remove everything including the Power Supply. Remove the cards I have installed (only AGP video card) remove the mobo from the case and see if I can remove the CPU support plate from the mobo without screwing the pooch. Then...carefully install the new support plate which has various screws insulators and whatnot.......install the mobo again. Make sure I've cleaned the CPU thoroughly reinstall, then assemble the water cooling devises, after putting the water block on the CPU. Then check for leaks so I don't have to man the pumps...........reinstall the PS and plug in various components. Reinstall the Video Card.....secure the pump in place in the case, install fan and radiator, install the resevoir in a 51/2 drive bay slot, attach the hoses, fill the system with coolant...and check for leaks again.

By the way the instruction booklet is nice...in color even...except for one thing THE PICTURES ARE TO DAM SMALL! I can't see any detail in them!

Not much text mostly pictures....and small ones at that!

I'll cya in two days............maybe.

capt. apathy · « **Reply #18 on:** July 03, 2006, 06:24:01 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by DAVENRINO
Any problems with condensation?

nope.

any condensation happens in the AC unit. from the time it leaves the AC the air is getting warmer in the duct and picking up even more heat in the case.

you only get condensation on parts that are actually colder than the air, and nothing in my case is colder than the air straight from the AC.

between the AC cooling the air and then having the PC heat it back up it actually works like a dehumidifier.

also, between the intake filter on the AC unit, and the lowered humidity in the case I get almost no dust build up at all (the lowered humidity makes the dust a lot less sticky).

Roscoroo · « **Reply #19 on:** July 03, 2006, 10:44:57 PM »

most of the fan/heatsink socket mounts are held on with swegies .. just look at the backside for the centerpin to push out .

lay the pump on its back with the hoses pointing up ... that keeps it from airlocking. keep the resevoir higher and lay the radiator on the desk /table for the bleed runout .

it may take 3 or 4 on off cycles for the air to clear .. be paitent ...

Hajo · « **Reply #20 on:** July 04, 2006, 12:17:40 AM »

Roscoroo!

Got it installed. The cpu support plate along with the two screw mount for the CPU Heatsink and fan had a sticky insulation between the plate and the mobo. The two screws were inserted into two posts that connected to the cpu support plate. I gently tapped them to loosen them, and the adhesive on the support plate and insulation started to come off. I got them off with no trouble, installed the "H" support plate and insulation and put the screws through. Mounting the waterblock was easy after installing the CPU, with a smidge of Artic Silver and an "H" bar clamp to hold the waterblock securely in place.

I had to mount the radiator and Fan on the outside back of the case which required taking the fan off the radiator and reversing it. Everything else was very easy. When I started the system it wouldn't pump because there was to much air in the system. It was easy to bleed because I had the radiator installed outside of the case. After Bleeding works great!
Running at 34 degrees C right now and the system is a lot quieter.

I Use ASUS probe and I get the CPU Fan warning all the time. I think I can disable that in the BIOs.

Anyway it was worth the trouble. I was a little leary of removing the cpu support plated from the mobo but it went better then expected. Thanks!

Roscoroo(work) · « **Reply #21 on:** July 04, 2006, 08:52:44 AM »

open the asus probe screen and on the 1st window theres a box next to cpu fan speed uncheck it and the beep will stop .. then either restart asus probe or reboot to get rid of the "Red " box warning .

Hajo · « **Reply #22 on:** July 04, 2006, 09:12:02 AM »

Roo....did that last night. Now.....the athlon64 4000+ runs warm bordering on hot. Core voltage supposed to be 1.5v........mine is running at 1.6 and under load playing AH the temperature gets no higher then 44C which is 12C lower then it was using a good Thermaltake heatsink and fan.

Read several articles on the Clawhammer and reviews that said it runs hot.

This is cooling it nicely. Nothing pushes the CPU like AH.

Hmmmmmm..........overclocking in the future?

I could probably cool it even further by turning the speed up on the fan on the radiator.

Roscoroo(work) · « **Reply #23 on:** July 04, 2006, 09:50:55 AM »

its nice to have some overhead on the temp ...

well thats my secret to runing my old barton at 2.5 ghz ...(my gamer @ the Roo castle)
just beshure you keep some airflow in the case to cool the hard drives, video cards ,ect.

on this pc 3500+ ive got a second tank inline after the radiator that i plop into a small ice chest packed in ice ... (tricks of the trade ) ive been currently eyeing the freezer in the corner (again) .. but id like to get a 3700+ or better befor i go after a record attempt again. (Beware Rukie )

Hajo · « **Reply #24 on:** July 04, 2006, 10:29:40 AM »

Roo

Along with the 120mm variable speed on the radiator I have an 80mm fan mounted on the side that blows into the case onto the vid card and mobo. Also have two 92mm fans installed in the front bottom of the case blowing in also. Mobo under load stays at 26C.

I have 2 gig of Corsair dual channel memory with heat spreaders on them.

Thinking........hmmmmmm...... should I or shouldn't I !

38ruk · « **Reply #25 on:** July 04, 2006, 05:18:34 PM »

HEHE Roo, i still have alittle more i could go on my 3700 , i'll just wait to see what ya get 8)

Roscoroo · « **Reply #26 on:** July 04, 2006, 07:06:22 PM »

did you read the spec sheet on the 4000+ ???

AMD # ada4000daa5bn

Max ht freq 1000 mhz

max p stat 2400 mhz

@ 85.3 watts @ 1.35 volts

its on page 20 i think of the amd white papers

The white papers in pdf

this one looks like it may have the overhead i'm gonna need ... whatcha think Rukie ??

Hajo · « **Reply #27 on:** July 04, 2006, 09:10:50 PM »

Roo....the 1.35v is the 4000+ SanDiego, the 1.5v is the Clawhammer.

The 4000+ is identical to the FX53 (review from Toms Hardware) in most instances.

Roscoroo · « **Reply #28 on:** July 04, 2006, 09:26:42 PM »

so which one is the (sleeper) of overclocking i wonder ???

my 2500 mobile barton used to be the killer sleeper

my 3500+ overclocks nice but it doesnt want to go past 3 ghz i was in the 2.9 area when it started "black screening" .

Hajo · « **Reply #29 on:** July 04, 2006, 09:57:57 PM »

Just OC'd this clawhammer 5%. Went from 2406 to 2520. Played offline AH for 20 mins to stress it. Temp of CPU went to 50C no higher. That's 4 to 5 C lower then when I just had the thermaltake heatsink and fan.

Whatya think...stay with the 5% OC? I don't know how much difference in performance that will make. But I think that speed makes it equal to the AthlonFX 55.

One would think that the water cooling would be better. But reading some reviews of the 4000+ Clawhammer from NewEgg most stated that the Clawhammer ran in the 50 C range with heatsink and fan.

Also read that the SanDiego runs cooler. Roo.....that would leave me to believe that the SanDiego would clock better. Lower core voltage et al.

Used CPUZ to verify the over clock. I've set it back to it's stock speed but am thinking seriously of leaving it at a 5% OC.

Gonna check some cpus to see the speed (FX and Pents) on SiSoft Sandra.
If I do go back to 5% OC will run the burnin using SiSoft Sandra to push it hard.