Author Topic: Tour of Toronto - photos (day 3) (Read 405 times)

xrtoronto · « **on:** September 10, 2006, 05:09:34 PM »

Starting the day looking south from Bloor & Bay Sts.

Front doors to the Ontario Legislature Building:

Gardens lining the walk along University Ave. :

Looking north along University Ave. toward the Legislative Building:

A bit further south now (around Dundas & University):

Eagler · « **Reply #1 on:** September 10, 2006, 05:12:47 PM »

very nice

xrtoronto · « **Reply #2 on:** September 10, 2006, 05:30:38 PM »

Now I've reached the financial district. These next series of photos are some of the bigger skyscrapers.

Brown granite building is between 70-80 floors. It's the Bank of Nova Scotia tower. The white building (about the same height) is the Bank of Montreal tower.

This next shot is one of my favourties of the day. I was shooting skyward and caught the top of the Bank of Montreal tower and two of the Toronto Dominion Bank towers.

I'm now crossing Bay St. looking north to the clock tower of Old City Hall.

This is a new building called 1 King West. It is a 51 story condo. A very unique architectural design.

I don't recall what this building is.

One more perspective on 1 King West:

Now I'm at King St. and Yonge St looking north.

BlueJ1 · « **Reply #3 on:** September 10, 2006, 05:43:08 PM »

Nice.

Bet ya Sabres tickets that your stalker shows up.

xrtoronto · « **Reply #4 on:** September 10, 2006, 05:58:26 PM »

Last of 3 segments.

This is our Old City Hall (Queen and Bay)

A closer look at the entrace to Old City Hall:

I have cut through the Eaton Centre to get back to Yonge St.:

This is called Dundas Square (across the road from the Eaton Centre at Yonge and Dundas)

This is the "Yonge Street Strip" running from the Eaton Centre north almost to Bloor St.:

Now back up at Bloor again I walked through Yorkville again (as I did yesterday)

Another beauty:

And another:

In this photo there are 3 red Ferrari's and a silver Lambourgini (one of the red Ferrari's is along side Sassafras and obscured by the number of people crossing...it's in the next shot...it is the same model and colour as the one in the foreground but has different rims)

My last shot of the day before returning home...the "3rd" Ferrari:

That's it for now. Some of the shots are clearer than others. Is that because maybe I'm shaking the camera a little bit as I click the shot? Once again, any suggestion would be welcome.

Birddogg · « **Reply #5 on:** September 10, 2006, 10:21:45 PM »

Beautiful pictures Xtoronto! Love the Yorkville shots..

Did ya get a chance to use/test the new city wireless internet?

Nilsen · « **Reply #6 on:** September 11, 2006, 01:02:50 AM »

Another super set of photos XT... I have to visit that place some time if it is as nice as the photos suggests

xrtoronto · « **Reply #7 on:** September 11, 2006, 12:49:03 PM »

Thanks guys.

I was up reading this 142 page manual last night till the wee hours. I think I may have come across something that will help me in the future.

There are seven AF points when you look through the viewfinder. One (or more) will light up to let you know which part of the view is closest. I found a way to change the AF point prior to shooting.

I haven't had a chance to explore this yet, but if I have some time this afternoon I will give it a go. The other problem is it appears that the areas in shade are too dark compared to lighted areas. Is that an ISO setting? So far I have only used the camera in total auto mode. I haven't even tried using manual settings. It will be awhile before I've reached that point.

Ripsnort · « **Reply #8 on:** September 11, 2006, 12:51:53 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by xrtoronto
Thanks guys.

I was up reading this 142 page manual last night till the wee hours. I think I may have come across something that will help me in the future.

There are seven AF points when you look through the viewfinder. One (or more) will light up to let you know which part of the view is closest. I found a way to change the AF point prior to shooting.

I haven't had a chance to explore this yet, but if I have some time this afternoon I will give it a go. The other problem is it appears that the areas in shade are too dark compared to lighted areas. Is that an ISO setting? So far I have only used the camera in total auto mode. I haven't even tried using manual settings. It will be awhile before I've reached that point.

you'll either want to set your EV up to lighten those darkened areas in advance of the shot, or get yourself a good circular polarized filter for those sunny days. Other than that, good looking shots.

moot · « **Reply #9 on:** September 11, 2006, 02:22:43 PM »

Nice pics.. I used to bike with friends through downtown and back from Scarborough.
It's good to see how the city's changed.

FiLtH · « **Reply #10 on:** September 11, 2006, 04:38:56 PM »

Beautiful!

Sparks · « **Reply #11 on:** September 11, 2006, 06:36:01 PM »

Lovely Shots XTX - WTG.

I love Toronto in the summer.

Quote

he other problem is it appears that the areas in shade are too dark compared to lighted areas. Is that an ISO setting? So far I have only used the camera in total auto mode. I haven't even tried using manual settings. It will be awhile before I've reached that point.

Not the ISO but the problem of the exposure range being too much. Without filters I find it best to under expose by anything up to a stop - read up on the AV+/- button (top right of the screen) - you can use that in program mode. Thing to remeber is that sofware can usually bring out detail from under-exposed but not bring it back from over exposed (washed out) so even if it looks dark on camera you can recover it in Photoshop - stay on the under exposed (dark) end. Use the histogram to check after shooting ("info" button)

Other than that it's into Neutral Graduauted filters which is what I'm getting into now....... more money

xrtoronto · « **Reply #12 on:** September 12, 2006, 12:05:08 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Ripsnort
you'll either want to set your EV up to lighten those darkened areas in advance of the shot, or get yourself a good circular polarized filter for those sunny days. Other than that, good looking shots.

Thanks for that Rip. I actually wanted to by a polarizing filter when I purchased the camera but they were out of stock. I will get around to picking one up.

Quote

Originally posted by Sparks
Not the ISO but the problem of the exposure range being too much. Without filters I find it best to under expose by anything up to a stop - read up on the AV+/- button (top right of the screen) - you can use that in program mode. Thing to remeber is that sofware can usually bring out detail from under-exposed but not bring it back from over exposed (washed out) so even if it looks dark on camera you can recover it in Photoshop - stay on the under exposed (dark) end. Use the histogram to check after shooting ("info" button)

Thanks Sparks...I saw the histogram but didn't really know how to interpret it. Will be awhile before I get accustomed to reading the histogram. Got bogged down in the manuel last night as it tried to explain 'white balance'. I'm only on page 52 of the manual (I said eariler the manual was 142 pages long...it's 170 pages!)

Thanks for the heads up on some of these things guys; I'm glad you have enjoyed these shots.

eskimo2 · « **Reply #13 on:** September 12, 2006, 06:47:54 PM »

Great pictures!

Ripsnort & sparks are right: try setting the exposure for the dark, or somewhere in between but avoid overexposing. You can fix a lot on the computer. Take a lot of the same picture at different values. Try the filter. If you want to cheat, use a tripod, shoot high and low exposure and then merge the two on the computer.

Pictures with very bright and dark areas are often disappointing because our eyes do such a better job at seeing both at once than any camera can. On a sunny day, turn off the lights in a room with only one window. Look out the window; your eyes can see details on the dark inside wall and the stuff outside at the same time. Now get your camera. Hold it up to the wall, read the exposure; now point it out the window and do the same. The difference in light will be huge.

eskimo2 · « **Reply #14 on:** September 12, 2006, 07:28:53 PM »

Gamma Correction - Dodge & Burn in Paint

Original picture:

Gamma pushed from 1.0 to 2.0 in an old obsolete program:

Original picture – dark areas dodged (set to bright green in paint as a bitmap):

Dodged area burned onto 2.0 gamma picture (bright green in paint set to transparent, saved as bitmap in paint, resaves as jpg in old photo editing program).