Author Topic: Any E-bay Gurus?  (Read 403 times)

Offline Raptor

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7577
Any E-bay Gurus?
« on: October 26, 2006, 10:02:51 PM »
Got any tips for a new E-bay user? Not having much luck with winning auctions or selling items.
This was the last Item I tried to sell without results
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170039670523&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fsearch.ebay.com%3A80%2Fsearch%2Fsearch.dll%3Ffrom%3DR40%26satitle%3D170039670523%26fvi%3D1

Offline Eagler

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 18757
a member of ebay since 1996
« Reply #1 on: October 26, 2006, 10:21:36 PM »
don't start bidding off at over $200 with shipping unless it retails for over $1000 anywhere else ... maybe the snowboard does cost that much as I do not know anything about snowboards.
to buy, you need to know your top bid is and be prepared to bid it as the item counts down to zero..
"Masters of the Air" Scenario - JG27


Intel Core i7-13700KF | GIGABYTE Z790 AORUS Elite AX | 64GB G.Skill DDR5 | 16GB GIGABYTE RTX 4070 Ti Super | 850 watt ps | pimax Crystal Light | Warthog stick | TM1600 throttle | VKB Mk.V Rudder

Offline eagl

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 6769
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #2 on: October 26, 2006, 10:33:51 PM »
Time your highest bid for the last 5 or 10 seconds of the auction.  Don't try to barely beat the current high bid either.  Bid your full highest bid right in the last few seconds.  That will defeat most of the automatic bidding software programs out there, and will also defeat both casual ebay bidders and people who are retarded enough to keep bidding items up 50 cents at a time for no real reason.  If the current bid is $4.50, the existing highest bidder has a $7 highest bid in the system, and you bid $10 at the last second, you'll win with the next bid increment over $7 and won't even have to pay the full $10, just enough to beat the other guy's max bid.

Trying to consciously outbid someone over a laser pointer, I ended up giving up at $15.  The next day, I got the exact same laser pointer for $5 even though the same retard who outbid me the day before was also trying to get another laser pointer.

Of course, some other guy got the same pointer 2 days later for 99 cents simply because he had his auto bid software to bid 99 cents for every single laser on ebay, but it takes persistence to bottom-feed like that.

The big thing is never bid your max early on.  You can place a low bid early to indicate interest and gauge how aggressive others are bidding, but don't get serious about it until the end.  If you place a couple of early low bids and notice the same guy consistently beats your bid a minute or two later, you are either facing a guy who has placed an early high bid or someone with automatic software.  If you absolutely MUST have that item, then you're screwed and will have to keep raising the bid.  But if you simply want a good deal, then place a reasonable bid in the last few seconds.  If you win, cool.  If not, there will almost always be another shot at the same item or something similiar later on in another auction.
Everyone I know, goes away, in the end.

Offline Raptor

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7577
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #3 on: October 26, 2006, 10:35:02 PM »
That snowboard with bindings is probably worth about $400 or so, I thought I was going low enough with $200.
With bidding, I should make sure to be online in the last few minutes it is up for auction and bid at the last second? Sounds like loads of fun

Offline eagl

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 6769
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #4 on: October 26, 2006, 10:37:22 PM »
If you must, open your bidding with a stupid-low bid early on just to see if anyone else is watching.  Then bid whatever you want to pay at the last second.  But yes, if you consistently want to win auctions without paying stupid-high prices, you must be online at the end so you can time your final bid.

edit - it is just as addictive as gambling so if you swing that way, be careful or you'll buy stupid crap you don't need and end up with a huge bill.
Everyone I know, goes away, in the end.

Offline Raptor

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7577
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #5 on: October 26, 2006, 10:49:55 PM »
wanna buy a snowboard?;)

Offline rabbidrabbit

  • Gold Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 3910
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #6 on: October 26, 2006, 11:06:39 PM »
http://www.jbidwatcher.com  is a good one.  Just sync it up and set it to bid 2 seconds before.  The short time will cut down on other folks bidding it up with autobidder.

Don't draw attention to the auction and set your max to someplace that is reasonable.

Offline sluggish

  • Persona Non Grata
  • Gold Member
  • *****
  • Posts: 2474
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #7 on: October 28, 2006, 02:02:48 PM »
I start all my auctions at $0.99.  If the item is listed properly, it will sell for what it's worth.  I once won a pair of Cerwin Vega speakers for the opening bid of $20 because the bonehead who was selling them spelled it Cervin Vega...

Offline Dago

  • Parolee
  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 5324
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #8 on: October 28, 2006, 02:26:51 PM »
Quote
Time your highest bid for the last 5 or 10 seconds of the auction.


I have never agreed with this strategy.  Some like to sniper bid, I dont bother.

I bid right off what I am willing to pay, and let the proxy take it from there.  If someone is willing to bid higher, have at it.  I have won quite a few items when the snipers bid in the last 10 seconds but didnt go high enough.  They ran out of time to bid again.   If I get outbid, so be it, they have exceeded my maximum.

So, for buying, know how much you are willing to pay, bid it and do not get auction fever going higher than you should.  If you under bid, and someone takes it away at the last second, you fault.

For selling, I put an item up with no reserve but put the starting price at the minimum I will take.  If I get it or more, great.  If nobody bids my minimum, no bid deal.  

I just dont play the games.  There may be a time or two someone playing the games might save a few dollars, or at least think they did, but they will never really know.

With me, its straight up, and I am happy with my success using ebay.
"Life should NOT be a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in an attractive and well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, chocolate in one hand, martini in the other, body thoroughly used up, totally worn out and screaming "WOO HOO what a ride!"

Offline eskimo2

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7207
      • hallbuzz.com
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #9 on: October 28, 2006, 03:06:53 PM »
I’m leery of buying big ticket items from Ebayer’s with no buying/selling history.  Someone may have been interested in your board but decided to find someone with a good history.  Buy some stuff and sell some little things first.

“Custom” means very little to someone who has never heard of the builder.  You should describe how it was built; something like: 8 layers of compressed laminated 4 oz glass/kevlar with epoxy/resin on 1/8 inch Petex base… bla blab la.  The fact that it’s custom will probably cut its value in half, unless you find a buyer from your neck of the woods.

Some brand new stuff might go for half of its new retail; but that often is pushing it.  Stuff goes on sale for half price at local stores all the time.  There’s no waiting, no shipping, no real risk and you can often take it back.  Some people do pay a heck of a lot for stuff on Ebay, but don’t count on it.  The fact that your board is used at all cuts its value considerably.  The last sporting goods item I bought on Ebay was a kayak.  It was brand new and retailed for $1,450.00.  I got it for $500 with a new paddle, helmet and life jacket.  

If you want to sell the board, let it go for what it’s worth.  If it’s worth $195 to you, don’t waste your time trying to sell it.

Provide more details.  Tell what size, weight and experience level the board is made for.  What size/format are the bindings?  (I don’t have a clue about snowboard equipment.)

Good job listing the shipping options.  I’ve never bought anything on Ebay where the shipping wasn’t clear.


Plan B – go to a local ski-swap.  You might actually get $200 for it.

eskimo

Offline eskimo2

  • Platinum Member
  • ******
  • Posts: 7207
      • hallbuzz.com
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #10 on: October 28, 2006, 03:13:46 PM »
Buying:

Research the snot out of whatever you are interested in.  Watch similar items come and go, see how they sell.  Go to the original manufacture’s site.  See how much they are selling for in local stores and online.   Sometimes Amazon or other online retailer’s have better prices than what people are bidding on Ebay.  Research the Ebay seller; check his history.  Research shipping options; figure that into/from/plus your max.  Decide the most you want to pay; bid that max.  Try again if you get outbid.

eskimo

Offline Roscoroo

  • Plutonium Member
  • *******
  • Posts: 8424
      • http://www.roscoroo.com/
Any E-bay Gurus?
« Reply #11 on: October 28, 2006, 03:45:27 PM »
heres another option too besides ebay

http://www.craigslist.org/about/cities.html

I get tons of free or next to free pc stuff there .


 Ebayer’s with no buying/selling history.  yes most defentally a biggie .
Roscoroo ,
"Of course at Uncle Teds restaurant , you have the option to shoot them yourself"  Ted Nugent
(=Ghosts=Scenariroo's  Patch donation