Any of you have problems with keyholing when shooting .38 shells in a .357 revolver?
I don't recall that problem with a single-action Ruger .357/.38 Blackhawk long ago, but on two separate days I've gotten some vertical keyholing at 7 yards with my double-action Ruger .357/.38 Security-Six.
I got keyholing from Atlanta Arms & Ammo 148-gr DEWC as well as its 125-gr JHP. Usually it was about three of 10 shots. In some 10-round targets the keyholes tapered off on the bottom toward 5:30 on a clockface; in others, the keyholes were shorter and toward 12:30.
I should have noted whether every 10 rounds had keyholes, but it didn't dawn on me I might have a problem until I was studying only the relatively few targets I kept.
In the same revolver, .357s shoot nice neat holes. I've been trying several pistols in various calibers and they also shoot nice neat holes.
Googling doesn't immediately reveal much on this specific problem, but I saw a brief reference buried in other items about .38 bullets having to leap an extra 1/8 inch in a .357 Magnum revolver, which might cause occasional keyholing.
When I thought about it, that makes sense. The Ruger rimfire .22 WMR / 22 LR convertible has two cylinders. The centerfire .357 and .44 Magnums allow lesser kindred rounds to be fired in the same cylinder.
So I'm wondering three things:
1. Are any of you experiencing this problem? If so, what do you do about it (e.g., live with it, fix it somehow, what)?
2. Does it seem to be a universal phenomenon with two different calibers sharing the same cylinder?
3. Does it also apply to carbines that fire .357/.38 not from cylinders? If not, why not, e.g., does the tube feed allow both sizes to snuggle without the 1/8-inch difference in the .357/.38 cylinder?
I'm thinking about getting a .357/.38 carbine -- maybe trading my .357/.38 revolver or maybe separately -- but either way I'd like to get a better fix on what's going on with this keyholing.