Author Topic: My Milk Drop Photos (Read 1791 times)

eskimo2 · « **Reply #30 on:** February 05, 2007, 10:16:37 AM »

This is the picture that re-inspired me:

I couldn’t figure out how the heck the photographer got the picture; a drop-splash just does not go through this stage. I thought maybe it was photoshopped, but then I got it (I think). I think this is actually 2 drops. The first one went through the crown stage and rebounded back up. On the way up or when it paused at the top it was hit by the second drop. I’d guess the two drops are about 1/15th of a second apart. Next time I’ll try squeezing off two quick drops at a time.

eagl · « **Reply #31 on:** February 05, 2007, 10:23:42 AM »

That's a neat pic. I can see why it inspired you. You're right, it looks exactly like what you'd expect if a second drop whacked the splash plume from the first one.

I suspect you'll need to mess with surface tension and viscosity to get that near-perfect splash unless you get lucky and find the right brand of milk right off the shelf

Using different liquids at diff temps, or that don't immediately mix might give interesting effects too.

eskimo2 · « **Reply #32 on:** February 05, 2007, 10:27:45 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by eagl
That's a neat pic. I can see why it inspired you. You're right, it looks exactly like what you'd expect if a second drop whacked the splash plume from the first one.

I suspect you'll need to mess with surface tension and viscosity to get that near-perfect splash unless you get lucky and find the right brand of milk right off the shelf Using different liquids at diff temps, or that don't immediately mix might give interesting effects too.

Oh man! Oil, milk, soapy water and/or dyed alcohol might make some pretty cool pictures!
(I actually did contemplate adding dish soap to the milk to see what would happen.)

eagl · « **Reply #33 on:** February 05, 2007, 10:36:06 AM »

If you can figure out a delivery system, following a bb with a drop or a drop with a bb might be neat too.

ramzey · « **Reply #34 on:** February 05, 2007, 12:56:20 PM »

eskimo,
i have adobe light room beta software, it can handle RAW nice, if you like to have it, PM me.

As for , how they do that. You have to experiment with liquid degree of hardness, and drops speed.

eskimo2 · « **Reply #35 on:** February 05, 2007, 01:05:19 PM »

Thanks ramzey,

PM on the way.

B@tfinkV · « **Reply #36 on:** February 05, 2007, 01:43:58 PM »

very cool pics!

dont ask me why, but those milk drop pictures seem to suggest some subtle sexual excitement. that might sound crazy, or sick, or both, but hey, art is what you see in it not what was intended to be seen.

awesome work!

eskimo2 · « **Reply #37 on:** February 08, 2007, 07:31:28 PM »

The pirated picture on Break was definitly a drop hitting a drop. Here's more of the photographer's work:

http://www.pbase.com/daria90/milk_meets_coffee_splashes

And here's a high speed movie of a drop hitting a drop:

http://www.visionresearch.com/video/playvideo.cfm?file=droplet%201.flv&flash=yes

ChickenHawk · « **Reply #38 on:** February 09, 2007, 01:25:25 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by eskimo2
The pirated picture on Break was definitly a drop hitting a drop. Here's more of the photographer's work
http://www.pbase.com/daria90/milk_meets_coffee_splashes:

She has some incredible pictures on that site. Thanks for the link.

Your drop shots are inspiring. I think I might have to give this a try.

Debonair · « **Reply #39 on:** February 09, 2007, 01:41:45 PM »

eskimo, when u did the flim hi-spped photos, did you experience any reciprocity law failure (i.e. film not responding the same to 1/8000th@f/4 vs. 1/32000th@f/2)?

eskimo2 · « **Reply #40 on:** February 09, 2007, 03:53:31 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Debonair
eskimo, when u did the flim hi-spped photos, did you experience any reciprocity law failure (i.e. film not responding the same to 1/8000th@f/4 vs. 1/32000th@f/2)?

I took the Spam shots in 1990 or 91. I had an expired 100’ roll of 400 speed BW film that I used for the semester I shot food. I bought a Vivitar Thyristor 283 Zoom flash (I think that’s what it was) just for the project. I altered it so it would always flash at its shortest setting which was 1/30,000 second. I didn’t really work any light/film speed settings, I just mounted the flash as close to the subject as possible without it being in the actual frame. The film was pretty under exposed, so I altered the film processing time and worked with what I had in the dark room. It was really more of a trial and error process, but I always got something. B & W film is pretty forgiving that way.

One thing that I did that saved a lot of cost and trouble was my flash trigger. Edgerton and other imitators used microphones and amps and an electronic switch (or infrared) as a switch. I used aluminum foil… that’s it! I cut the middle out of three playing cards and put foil between them (and made sure the foil didn’t touch). I held them together with clothes pins and clipped alligator clips to the two pieces of foil. The other ends of the leads were hooked up to the flash of course. So the bullet would go through the food (or whatever) and then would pass through the foil making an electrical connection which would set off the flash. It was remarkably simple, cheap and reliable. The only problem I ever encountered was about 1 in 20 shots would be a double exposure; sometimes the foil would touch, separate for an instant then touch again. I could replace the foil in the switch in seconds. Sometimes shrapnel would destroy the switch, but a new one was only three playing cards and a minute away. You can see the switch in the potato picture.

I’m thinking about doing it again with my digital camera… I’ve been studying flashes trying to figure out what can put out some good quick light.

Debonair · « **Reply #41 on:** February 09, 2007, 05:26:47 PM »

kewl
i used to do some very long exposures on film & had to do all sorts of weird stuff to get light to accumulate linearly:mad:

then we got CCDs:aok

PWNAGE!!!1