Author Topic: Was I Snookered at the Dealer?  (Read 2034 times)

Offline mora

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Was I Snookered at the Dealer?
« Reply #60 on: February 11, 2007, 02:10:47 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by storch
do you guys use much road salts?

Yeah, and lots of it!:(  That is a major factor. One other factor is that compacts usually have a manual transmission and some drivers(women mostly) don't use their brakes as much as they should. But then again I just recently bought a used delivery van(driven with heavy loads), and it also had one of the inner front brake pads stuck. I simply used a screwdriver to get the pad loose from outside, so I didn't need to do any "cleaning" as they would have done at a dealership.

Offline culero

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« Reply #61 on: February 11, 2007, 02:11:12 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by storch
my 99 toyota is approaching 240k with nothing other than maintenance.  it pulls trailers up 5k GVW routinely.  when I change the tranny fluid it is dark and burnt.  by draining the pan every oil change and replacing the 3-4 quarts it takes the breakdown in the fluid can be mitigated never the less I change it every 15k or so as I stated.  it's pennies and easy to do.

my previous truck was a ford ranger that got clobbered by a tow truck I forget how many miles I had on that but it was over 200k as well.


storch you're right, when the transmission is used for severe duty enough that the fluid gets discolored you absolutely should be servicing the fluid frequently.

One suggestion, though - pressure flushing rigs are pretty common now. There's some considerable sense in going that route rather than dropping the pan.

When you drain the pan, you only get about half the fluid out. Pressure flushing not only flushes out the torque converter, but also the oil cooler and its lines. 100% of the fluid is changed, this is obviously better. Many of the better quality oil change places now offer this service, as well as most transmission shops. Plus, its a more idiot-proof procedure than changing the pan gasket, which often results in leaks due to carelessness and/or improper technique.

The cost is comparable to what a shop would charge for dropping the pan. I recommend you check it out.
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Offline Atoon

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Was I Snookered at the Dealer?
« Reply #62 on: February 11, 2007, 02:16:22 PM »
1) yea, unfortunately you got taken on this visit, and prolly several others in the past. I agree with most posts in here on the brake cleaning. Around here we clean them when we replace them.

2) K&N airfilters do increase airflow. However I recommend you look into the micron filtration ratings, as well as the effect of the filter treatment chemical on vehicles equiped w/ a mass air flow sensor. Also, many K&N filter applications are not smog legal, and will void factory warranties should the vehicle show up at a dealer with K&N unit installed.

3) Im fairly sure there are a couple companies that produced smoked lense covers for those camaros, they were real popular in Nevada where tinting windows and such is completely legal.
Thanx for addressing the signature issue FAIRLY, I am morally aloud to patronize your business again. I am Anton & Uknome, Current game-ID Anton1.   *-Brown Nosers STINK!-*

storch

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Was I Snookered at the Dealer?
« Reply #63 on: February 11, 2007, 03:04:31 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by culero
storch you're right, when the transmission is used for severe duty enough that the fluid gets discolored you absolutely should be servicing the fluid frequently.

One suggestion, though - pressure flushing rigs are pretty common now. There's some considerable sense in going that route rather than dropping the pan.

When you drain the pan, you only get about half the fluid out. Pressure flushing not only flushes out the torque converter, but also the oil cooler and its lines. 100% of the fluid is changed, this is obviously better. Many of the better quality oil change places now offer this service, as well as most transmission shops. Plus, its a more idiot-proof procedure than changing the pan gasket, which often results in leaks due to carelessness and/or improper technique.

The cost is comparable to what a shop would charge for dropping the pan. I recommend you check it out.
we have a pulsating flusher.  we never drop the pans any more.  some guys critisize this but I've never seen a clogged screen so we're comfortable with just flushing.  we drain the pan without dropping it every time we perform an oil change.

Offline Black Sheep

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Was I Snookered at the Dealer?
« Reply #64 on: February 11, 2007, 03:19:13 PM »
I just bought a 2003 Pathfinder 4WD SE with 53000 miles - It's a cherry so far, but I may need to have the tranny looked at. It's under warranty. But there are some jerky starts from a dead stop, and the shifting is stiff too. Dealer never said the fluid was replaced - so I need to get the service record from them. But it sounds like at the very least, I need to have the tranny fluid and filter replaced and flushed. What ya think?

(Mine isn't canary yellow either like someone else on the board :))

Offline DREDIOCK

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« Reply #65 on: February 11, 2007, 09:15:07 PM »
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Originally posted by rpm
Wow Dred, I'm not sure you came out any better.

4 Wheel brake job -$99

Oil change & lube - $19.99

They only overcharged you $130.


where you getting a 4 wheel brake job for $99 on a Dodge 2500?

I was going to do it myself the first time till I realised Dodge Brakes were designed a bit differently then any other I had ever worked on.
Decided it wasnt worth my aggrivation.

I had bought the Brake pads already and the front pads alone cost me $80
Just for the pads and that was over a year ago.

He typically charges me about $29  for an oil change and lube.
And here in Jersey you cant even get jiffy lube to do an oil change for $19 anymore and havent been for a few years now.
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Offline rpm

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Was I Snookered at the Dealer?
« Reply #66 on: February 12, 2007, 12:10:19 AM »
$80 for front pads?:O  Are you buying parts at Neiman-Marcus?

 I just did a quick search at O'Reilly.com and found this for a RAM 2500:  
O'REILLY/BRAKEBEST - Front Premium Semi Metallic Pads - $24.99 per set

Seriously, there are literally 100's of places in Dallas/Ft.Worth that do 4 wheel brake replacement for $99, including turning the rotors/drums. BTW, any shop that replaces the pads without turning the rotors/drums is a gip joint.
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Offline DREDIOCK

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Was I Snookered at the Dealer?
« Reply #67 on: February 12, 2007, 12:20:20 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by rpm
$80 for front pads?:O  Are you buying parts at Neiman-Marcus?

 I just did a quick search at O'Reilly.com and found this for a RAM 2500:  
O'REILLY/BRAKEBEST - Front Premium Semi Metallic Pads - $24.99 per set

Seriously, there are literally 100's of places in Dallas/Ft.Worth that do 4 wheel brake replacement for $99, including turning the rotors/drums. BTW, any shop that replaces the pads without turning the rotors/drums is a gip joint.


heh, dont ever break down in jersey.

How much they charge for an oil pump replacement down there?

Just curious
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Offline rpm

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« Reply #68 on: February 12, 2007, 12:34:50 AM »
I brokedown in Connecticut once. Paid $450 for a $200 fuel pump on a Cummins 290. I'm pretty sure I'm still not allowed to return to Yannick after the full blown hissy fit I threw in the parts store. I could have had the part FedEx'ed and saved a ton, but I'm not sure they would deliver to the side of the road on I-95.

Not sure what the parts and labor on replacing an oil pump would cost. I've never had to deal with that particular problem.
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Stay thirsty my friends.

Offline DiabloTX

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Was I Snookered at the Dealer?
« Reply #69 on: February 12, 2007, 12:39:56 AM »
Quote
Originally posted by rpm
$80 for front pads?:O  Are you buying parts at Neiman-Marcus?

 I just did a quick search at O'Reilly.com and found this for a RAM 2500:  
O'REILLY/BRAKEBEST - Front Premium Semi Metallic Pads - $24.99 per set

Seriously, there are literally 100's of places in Dallas/Ft.Worth that do 4 wheel brake replacement for $99, including turning the rotors/drums. BTW, any shop that replaces the pads without turning the rotors/drums is a gip joint.


True for alot of cars but not all.  We never turned rotors at the Mercedes shop as Mercedes recommended not to.  Caliper pad over extenstion leads to blown out calipers and then really expensive repairs.  We mic'd the rotors with calipers to see how much metal was left and let the customer know if the rotors needed replacing or not.  We did, however, turn rotors on the handfull of American cars we worked on, mostly good customers and our own cars.
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Offline JTs

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« Reply #70 on: February 12, 2007, 12:42:41 AM »
just flushed both trans and both rear ends with synthetic at 750,000 and it only cost  500 usd. dang i sure do like the eatons and the brownie.

Offline rpm

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« Reply #71 on: February 12, 2007, 12:53:29 AM »
Completely agree Diablo. There is a point where you need to replace rather than turn the rotors/drums. But, there needs to be a fresh surface for the new pads to seat into. What you want to avoid is putting a glazed rotor/drum on a new set of pads. That will greatly reduce brake performance and can increase brake wear.

Keep in mind I'm talking about American cars and trucks. I have almost zero experience with imports. I owned a '74 Audi 100LS and an '80 Datsun pickup. I have no plans to own either of those makes again.
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Offline mora

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Was I Snookered at the Dealer?
« Reply #72 on: February 12, 2007, 09:03:58 AM »
I don't think "turning of rotors" has been practised here for 20 years. In some exceptions like older US cars it's done sometimes, if replacement is expensive/hard to get.

Besides on newer cars the replacement thickness is many times only 2 mm below the nominal thickness, so turning would be impossible in many cases.