Firearm cleaning

[GtoRA2]

Water and dishsoap for all the stuff and can take down to small parts. Places I am not sure I can get the water out I use a little bit of Hops 9 on a rag.


Bore snakes rock BTW.


I don't like any of the oil based cleaners cause they always end up running out of all the small nooks and crannies you can't get to.

[Waffle]

Originally posted by Blooz
Hoppes 9 with a pull through snake.

Light coat of CLP over all exposed steel.

Dab of grease on my M1A's bolt roller bearing.

I tried that once, she slapped me before we got outta the bar!

[rpm]

Do not, I repeat DO NOT use WD-40 or any other penetrating lubricant not specificly designed to clean a firearm. It will contaminate the ammunition long after the cleaning. The solvent seeps into the ammo and fouls the powder and primer. It can possibly ruin an entire clip. That's not something I want to have to rethink when I am relying on the weapon to work properly.

I normally use a Remington or Winchester cleaning kit.

[Masherbrum]

I use hoppes 9, brass brush, toothbrush, and a .45 jag.   I brush the barrel twice and follow with a fresh patch on the jag until clean.

[VWE]

Wanna know the best way to clean your M-16 in the field?

1 tooth brush
1 small wire brush
1 can of foamy shaving cream

Disassemble weapon and cover everything in foamy shaving cream, even into the barrel. Use wire brush and tooth brush to give everything a good scrubbing, you may have to use firing pin to scrape built up carbon. Rinse preferably with hot water, if not available any clean water is fine. Wipe down with towel or rags making sure weapon in nice and dry. Apply CLP to a rag and rub down each item with CLP covered rag. Reassemble weapon, rock n roll... I've found nothing in the field cleans my M-16 more thoroughly or quicker.

[lazs2]

I guess I am the only one not a fan of hoppes #9

I used the stuff for years but it just doesn't do that great a job..  smells nice tho.

For normal cleaning I use shooters choice or dillons solvent...  For real dirty bores on military rifles or used guns that have never been cleaned or..  that once a year "take em all apart and clean em"   I use Mpro7 or blue wonder gell.   For copper...  sweets is best.   Dilllons and shooters choice are best for lead and carbon.

Hoppes does about nothing for lead or copper..  it just smells nice.

I run a solvent soaked bore brush down the bore and cyls a few times and then brush down the rest of the action with a solvent soaked toothbrush.    Wipe everything down and then spray with clp  (I buy the stuff by the quart)   wipe everything down again with a rag and then run a bore snake down the bore and  cyls that has the last few inches sprayed with clp.  

Grease on the guns that require it.

lazs

[Terror]

Lately I have been using Bore Tech Eliminator.  It's Petrolium and Ammonia free.  It does a wonderful job.  This and CLP are my only chemicals for cleaning the smokeless firearms.  (Got a whole different set for the blackpowder guns...)

Terror

[Suave]

Originally posted by Masherbrum
I use hoppes 9, brass brush, toothbrush, and a .45 jag.   I brush the barrel twice and follow with a fresh patch on the jag until clean.

Why only brush twice? That's enough to get the copper out?

[Suave]

Armalite's advice on cleaning armalites.

http://www.armalite.com/library/techNotes/tnote29.htm

[L'EMMERDEUR]

Originally posted by Makarov9
I use to use Hoppes no.9 but I'm trying to get away from petroleum based cleaners, mostly for potential health reason.

Ditto.  Break Free Powder Blast (citrus based) works great.

[Sting138]

Household sudsing amonia, copper solvent and Remington teflon lube.

[hyena426]

i use old break free my self:) soap and hot water for my black powders..then i finish every gun i have with break-free....been the best stuff i ever used..plus its not very spendy;)




Break-Free is a leading manufacturer of synthetic based lubricants, cleaners and preservative compounds for military weapon maintenance, law enforcement, civilian firearms/sports equipment and industrial machinery. Break-Free's flagship product Break-Free CLP® was specifically developed to provide reliable weapon lubrication in battlefield conditions and to remove firing residues, carbon deposits and other firing contaminants. Moreover, Break-Free CLP® was designed to repel water and dirt and prevents corrosion, keeps weapons combat ready and functional in steamy jungles, dust-blown deserts, salty air of sea and coast, and cold and icy climates of winter and the Arctic.

[Charon]

When firing corrosive ammo (about all I shoot but for the pistols and carbine and garand) I run a few patches of WW2 surplus WATER based brown "posion" bore cleaner before the 1.5 hour drive home from the range.

Once home I put a pot of water to boil on the stove, and using my funnel pour it through the rifles from the breech end while hands-off supported on my back yard fence -- just like they did in WW2. I let it air dry then finish cleaning with CLP. After a few session I give it an addtional cleaning with a bore cleaner that dissolves brass build up, etc. With non-corrosive I skip the boiling and range treatment and go straigt to the CLP. With the semi autos I generally field strip and clean the accessible gas piston components.

I then lightly oil/grease as required.

My goal is "pretty clean to very clean" vs. "Army white glove inspection clean," which is more than good enough.

Charon