Author Topic: Engine trouble (Read 769 times)

storch · « **Reply #15 on:** June 12, 2007, 08:57:54 PM »

no I'm an poster offering wisecracks

FBBone · « **Reply #16 on:** June 12, 2007, 10:22:42 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by stantond
Personally, I would buy an IR temperature reading gun. I've always wanted one but not had a good excuse, err reason to buy one. Generally, if your coolant isn't getting too hot then neither is the oil. Both oil and coolant cool the engine.

Myself (again just my opinion), I would get a manual for the engine and find out the manufacturers specifications for the oil filter and type of oil recommended. I would then change the oil and oil filter. Any questions and both are changed so they are not an issue. However, if you can feel the oil filter without burning yourself then it's not above 150 deg F ( 65C) which isn't hot.

The lube light blinking is a concern. That is generally a pressure switch indicating low oil pressure. Low oil pressure is bad. Change the oil & filter. That's the least expensive thing you can do (other than asking for opinions).

Running oil that is too light in weight will cause oil pressures to drop to dangerous levels, if the manufacturer recommends 10w-40 or 15w-40, running 5w-40 will destroy it quickly. Also, IIRC, Perkins are supposed to run full synthetic, but I could be wrong on that.

zmeg · « **Reply #17 on:** June 12, 2007, 11:03:03 PM »

Your problem is the oil pressure relief valve is stuck partly open, this is fairly common in new engines and will usually clear up after a few hours of use. Meanwhile just keep the RPMs high enough to keep the light off.

Angus · « **Reply #18 on:** June 13, 2007, 06:13:44 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by stantond
Personally, I would buy an IR temperature reading gun. I've always wanted one but not had a good excuse, err reason to buy one. Generally, if your coolant isn't getting too hot then neither is the oil. Both oil and coolant cool the engine.

Myself (again just my opinion), I would get a manual for the engine and find out the manufacturers specifications for the oil filter and type of oil recommended. I would then change the oil and oil filter. Any questions and both are changed so they are not an issue. However, if you can feel the oil filter without burning yourself then it's not above 150 deg F ( 65C) which isn't hot.

The lube light blinking is a concern. That is generally a pressure switch indicating low oil pressure. Low oil pressure is bad. Change the oil & filter. That's the least expensive thing you can do (other than asking for opinions).

Exactly this is concerning me, since the problem increased day by day, and changing the oil didn't change anything. Since the lube gets thinner when heating up the pressure drops a bit, hence the light.
If it is however the relief valve, I can but cary on driving doing light work or?

SIK1 · « **Reply #19 on:** June 13, 2007, 09:29:13 AM »

I would suggest installing a mechanical oil presure gauge. If you are losing oil presure it won't take long to toast the engine. Idiot lights are just that, they don't tell anything until it is to late.

What I think is happening is that at low rpm the oil presure drops enough when it is warm to cause the light to start to flicker. I have a Cummins 6bta that once it has warmed up oil presure drops to 25 psi at idle but climbs back up to 60 psi once the rpms are brought up all with in spec for that engine. Check what the manufacterer specifications are for your engines oil presure they usually have a max and min, and a min at idle.

FWIW Caterpillar bought Perkins so they call them Perkapillars.

Ripsnort · « **Reply #20 on:** June 13, 2007, 10:14:48 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by lazs2
don't diesels cause global warming?

lazs

Absolutely. Worse than gasoline. However, in typical liberal fashion, I'm quite sure that Angus expects US to cut back, while he goes along his merry way in his own personal lifestyle. Hello Al Gore!

Quote

Scientists: Diesel soot abets global warming
Engine output stops snow, ice from reflecting sunlight

WASHINGTON - Soot mostly from diesel engines is blocking snow and ice from reflecting sunlight, which is contributing to “near worldwide melting of ice” and as much as a quarter of all observed global warming, top NASA scientists say.

The findings about the snow and ice albedos — their power to reflect light falling on the surface — raise new questions about human-caused climate change from the Arctic to the Alps.

“We suggest that soot is a more all-around ‘bad actor’ than has been appreciated,” NASA scientists James Hansen and Larissa Nazarenko wrote in a paper published Monday in the Proceedings of the National Academy of Sciences.

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/3786067/

Jackal1 · « **Reply #21 on:** June 13, 2007, 10:44:54 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Angus

BTW, have been delayed in this business due to the manning of a very big John Deere,- some 300 hp I think. The whole monster weights some 20 tonnes (with accessories) and is a sweeeeeet ride. I am harrowing some 16 feet net across, but at a rather tedious speed of 3 mph.

ROFLMAO

Let me get this straight...You are pulling a 16 ft. harrow with a 300 HP JD?????
Bet that looks like a monkey sexing up a football.

When I had my haying operation going I helped some guys out one year with their wheat land prepping because they were in a bind.
My JD was 120 HP. I was pulling a 30 ft., Bat wing , disk set.
It was totaly embarrassing because I couldn`t lay my hands on a disk set of any decent size. The damn Tonka size set wouldn`t even put a load on "Bruiser".
I haven`t seen a 16 ft. harrow since the H Farmall days.

stantond · « **Reply #22 on:** June 13, 2007, 11:22:35 AM »

If the oil and filter are to spec and the oil pressure light keeps coming on, then there is something wrong with the engine or the oil pressure sensor. It could be serious, such as a bad bearing, or more likely a bad sensor. Installing a mechanical oil pressure gage is a good idea at that point.

I have a hard time accepting that an oil pressure relief valve is stuck open. Not that it couldn't happen, but it would be very abnormal. I have heard of kabota diesel engines losing oil pressure indication. The oil pressure is good but the path to the oil pressure sensor becomes obstructed due to a design flaw.

If there is a warranty with that engine, it sounds like talking to the manufacturer/distributor is in order. I expect it's a problem specific to that particular model.

Good Luck,

Malta

Angus · « **Reply #23 on:** June 13, 2007, 07:01:26 PM »

Quote

Originally posted by Jackal1
ROFLMAO

Let me get this straight...You are pulling a 16 ft. harrow with a 300 HP JD?????
Bet that looks like a monkey sexing up a football.
When I had my haying operation going I helped some guys out one year with their wheat land prepping because they were in a bind.
My JD was 120 HP. I was pulling a 30 ft., Bat wing , disk set.
It was totaly embarrassing because I couldn`t lay my hands on a disk set of any decent size. The damn Tonka size set wouldn`t even put a load on "Bruiser".
I haven`t seen a 16 ft. harrow since the H Farmall days.

This is a power harrow. Normally you use up all 90 hp on a 3 metre one.
The JD will run the 5 metre one on 1300 rpm, quite a lazy mode, and quite fuel efficient. Still, only at 3 mph.
We are working the land (which has previously been ploughed BTW) for potatoes and turf for sale. For a pasture or a field to harvest, we would go a lot faster.
So, once you have that info into yer head, stop comparing apples to oranges (disc to power or rather disc to unknown) as well as showing off with the good try of an unknown name like Farmall (we had a Farmall A before we got a Fordson Dextra in 1958), and as well you know nothing of the soil (which means oranges and apples again)
In the clay grounds near Cambridge in England, as well as a decent part of France, you will need 40 hp for each 16" cutter of your plough, - on straight and smooth ground. Here we need 20 or less. I pull a 5 cutter nicely with a 95hp. (The tractor in question). So, it is the difference with the soil.
Same goes with powerharrowing. Depends how deep you go and how good the finish is supposed to be as well.
So, don't try lecturing on things that you don't have data on, especially in a mocking mode please.

PS. My field operations go back uncomfortably long, and are still at large. Not U.S. sized, but very very very very different stuff. Sand, bog, earth, mixtures, and soil covered lava, hehe.

Angus · « **Reply #24 on:** June 13, 2007, 07:04:29 PM »

PS2
Oil pressure sensor looked faulty, and has been replaced.
But the pressure relive valve suggestion was IMHO very good, and TY for the info, - that one I will keep in the back of my head.

rpm · « **Reply #25 on:** June 13, 2007, 07:13:19 PM »

Also check that the oil you are using is approved for compression ignition engines. Oil for gasoline engines does not act well in diesels.

Angus · « **Reply #26 on:** June 14, 2007, 12:48:50 AM »

You joking rpm?

rpm · « **Reply #27 on:** June 14, 2007, 02:14:40 AM »

No Angus, I'm being serious. Oil has ratings for the type engine it is suitable for. Oil designed for spark ignition will perform poorly when used in a compression ignition engine.

link

Excel1 · « **Reply #28 on:** June 14, 2007, 06:09:51 AM »

Some oils are rated for both petrol and diesel engined passenger and light commercial vehicles, but a I don't think the dual rated oils would be the best choice in a heavy duty commercial diesel engine like a Perkins though. And it's not unheard of where an oil rated for only one type of engine is used in another. Since the amount of the anti ware additive ZDDP has been reduced in SM rated petrol engine oil for emission reasons, Rotella diesel oil for instance, because of it's high level of ZDDP has been used by some who care about excessive engine ware and flat tappet cam and lifter ware in particular.

storch · « **Reply #29 on:** June 14, 2007, 06:15:23 AM »

Quote

Originally posted by Angus
You joking rpm?

you don't use rotella in your diesels?

Author Topic: Engine trouble (Read 769 times)

storch

storch