Author Topic: 1930 Essex Carbs (Read 480 times)

BiGBMAW · « **on:** August 14, 2007, 12:51:43 PM »

Well it has run great,,,recently it feel slike 1) too much fuel mxture..or justthe mixture is wrong..

when u put the pedal down it gurgles/sound sliek crap

I replaced all fuel filters/air filters

I have tuned an drebuilt old moto bikes(2 stokes) carb sect..but never really screwed around with cars ..except my diesel merceds..which are liek tractors and fairly easy to work on..

any ideas?..Could I find a carb tuning manuel?..Air jets..gas jet adjustments?

Im not sure what model it is..It says Holley on the top..then Edel on bottom

FrodeMk3 · « **Reply #1 on:** August 14, 2007, 12:55:55 PM »

The carb is Edelbrock's reborn AFB.

I've never really opened one up, but i'm told that you tune it alot like a Rochester Q-jet.

Captain Virgil Hilts · « **Reply #2 on:** August 14, 2007, 01:00:25 PM »

Nope, you tune it like an AFB, it's just an AFB copy made for Edelbrock by Weber.

If it ran fine, then developed problems, you need to overhaul it. Get a kit, and floats, from Edelbrock. You'll need some sort of carburetor cleaner to soak it in after you take it apart. And some spray cleaner to check all the passages.

BiGBMAW · « **Reply #3 on:** August 14, 2007, 01:21:52 PM »

ya it did run fine...probbaly has 5k miles on engine and carb...

thnaks for input

SIK1 · « **Reply #4 on:** August 14, 2007, 01:57:19 PM »

From what you describe sounds like either the floats in the carb are leaking, the inlet valve isn't seating properly or an internal passage in the carb is plugged. Does the engine idle, or is the problem just when you are accelerating? If you stand behind the car when it is idleing does it smell rich? Did you just recently install an electric fuel pump? When you replaced the fuel filters were they dirty, did they have junk in the elements?

If the car sets for more than a month at a time run some sta-bil through it, or drain the fuel system completely. There is nothing worse for a fuel system than old gas, it turns into a varnish, and plugs everything up.

As for the carb it is an AFB clone, I believe Edelbrock bought the rights from Carter to manufacture them. One of my favorite carb designs, just about infinite adjustablity, reliable, and pretty much bullet proof, if you keep the fuel clean.

BiGBMAW · « **Reply #5 on:** August 15, 2007, 04:31:05 PM »

idles fine..

just gurgles when accelrating medium to hard..

will stand behind it and smell..

It definlty could be in the 1 month long non running condition..

The fuel filters werent terrible. a bit of specks...but no change..

My fule filters on y Yamaha RD ..well thsoe are Horribel..its usless right now till i get my fuel tank re-conditioned..it send rust flakes instanly to the inline filters..then i only run on 1 piston instead of 2; (

either way sound sliek im going to have to take th eCarbs off right?..Or should I throw soem "sta bill" fuel stuff in it first?

Furball · « **Reply #6 on:** August 15, 2007, 04:33:04 PM »

BGB, i will point this thread out to Checkers, he has some amazing '30's hotrods and sure he can help.

BiGBMAW · « **Reply #7 on:** August 15, 2007, 05:14:15 PM »

sweet..thnx flurballs

urb says he misses you

FrodeMk3 · « **Reply #8 on:** August 15, 2007, 05:49:37 PM »

Gurgles on acceleration? Check the accelerator pump, and the power valve.

Holleys' have a bunch of different accelerator jets that you can swap in and out to help fix problems like these, I don't know about the AFB's though.

Captain Virgil Hilts · « **Reply #9 on:** August 15, 2007, 06:57:25 PM »

The Edelbrock/AFB does not have a power valve. The primary metering rods are on hangers, attached to pistons. The pistons have springs under them, vacuum pulls them down for idle and cruise, lower vacuum allows the springs to push them up, for enrichment under load. It is possible they are stuck, but not likely.

The accelerator pump has a check ball and a weight, if either of those is stuck the accelerator pump will not discharge when the throttle is opened. Those two pieces stick way more often than the enrichment pistons. It is also possible that the accelerator pump piston has dried out and shrunk,that will also prevent the pump from discharging when the throttle is opened. With the engine OFF, open and close the throttle, slowly and smoothly, while looking down the carburetor. You should see two streams of fuel spray from the two small nozzles in the center of the primaries (front two barrels). The reason to do it with the engine off is that if the pump isn't working, it may backfire through the carburetor, and singe your face and head real good. Rarely does serious injury occur, but it isn't pleasant.

If it has no accelerator pump discharge, or no enrichment circuit, it will bog somewhat on acceleration, and it may miss, stumble, or backfire through the carburetor.

In either case, a complete overhaul is a good idea.

CHECKERS · « **Reply #10 on:** August 15, 2007, 08:07:00 PM »

Hi , here is a link to Edelbrock and PDF file on the carbs ..

I would try fuel useing fuel stabelizer , I use it in my rods when i park them for long periods of time ... It may help .
Also you can call Edelbrock customer support for help and parts ordering
if needed. ( Dave ) runs customer support and Tech . ( Call early in morning for fastest service, as they get zillions of call every day and the wait can be a long one if you call in the middle of the day ......

Captain Virgil Hilts is spot on with his advice and tips !

I notice that the intake manifold looks like a hard core racing manifold ,
( Victor Series Manifolds (3500 to 8500+ rpm)
Single-plane, high-rise intakes designed for maximum race-winning power at higher engine speeds. Edelbrock engineers work in conjunction with leading engine builders from all forms of competition to design manifolds compatible with the latest technology. Victor manifolds are available for single or multiple carburetor set-ups. See individual listings for complete information.)
You would do well to change it out someday to a Edelbrock perfomer
series intake manifold . The perfomer manifolds work much better for street rods and low end driveability than those "air-gap" drag racing manifolds.... ( Just a thought ) ....

At the moment, that manifold has nothing to do what-so-ever, with your carb problem ...

If it was running good when you parked it , and has been just sitting for a long time, then my best guess is, that it is a case of bad gas , from the car just sitting in storage ....
If you have a fuel drain in the fuel line, I would try draining out the old gas then, I would try adding Chevron 92 octane gas ,and drive it and see if that dosen't clear it up ? ...

http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_new/mc/carbs_acc/carbs_access_main.shtml

Good luck with it ....
I hope some of these ideas help.

Regards,
Bob/ CHECKERS

BiGBMAW · « **Reply #11 on:** August 16, 2007, 11:14:42 AM »

yes they defnly help...

Talked to a Napa auto parts guy yesterday....Hes been in the auto parts/build hotrods for many years..

He rec' to do a simple rebuil dof the carb..floats ect...

It was never sitting longer then a month between drives...each drive was about 10 miles or so

I was hoping for a simple fix..I have plenty of projects half way completed..Carbs are .."somehwat" simple.but not as simple as my 2 strokes carb..just taking it off and on atleast...

Will keep you guys updated..

again..thank you very much for th ehelp..

vroom ...vrooom...sqqqqqureeeeeeeee ach!!!!..hopefully soon; )