Author Topic: 88's moonrise tutorial  (Read 647 times)

Offline gpwurzel

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88's moonrise tutorial
« Reply #15 on: August 29, 2007, 11:41:38 PM »
Seriously speaking (typing?) tho JB88, many thanks for that, my wife is deep into digital photography, but not editing....and I suck at that, so that will come in very handy.........


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Offline Mark Luper

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« Reply #16 on: August 29, 2007, 11:44:40 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by JB88
pssst.  mark.  

check out todays image...and thanks for the inspiration!

:D


I did check it out earlier. Cool pic. It reminded me of when I was a kid and I used to find those pools behid the dunes all the time. They were made when the tide brought the water in behind the dunes. We had miles of dunes out there, as far as you could see...

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Offline JB88

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« Reply #17 on: August 29, 2007, 11:47:54 PM »
nope.  i just changed it.  

try refreshing.

:D
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Offline Mark Luper

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« Reply #18 on: August 29, 2007, 11:57:29 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by JB88
nope.  i just changed it.  

try refreshing.

:D


LOL!! Cool pic. I can relate to that one too :D :D :D

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Offline JB88

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88's moonrise tutorial
« Reply #19 on: August 29, 2007, 11:58:19 PM »
i knew thatcha could.

:D

:cool:
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Offline ChickenHawk

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« Reply #20 on: August 30, 2007, 01:07:59 AM »
Thanks for that great tutorial 88.  Got it saved on my hard drive and I'll start processing some pictures with your procedure.  I really like the end result.
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Offline JB88

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« Reply #21 on: August 30, 2007, 02:04:43 AM »
most welcome. glad to hear it chickenhawk.

;)
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Offline JB88

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« Reply #22 on: August 30, 2007, 12:37:00 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by moot
Thanks 88 :)
Any chance of a brief of your take on HDR?  I just got a camera to do some documentation at work and wonder if 3 shots at +-1EV is enough or negligible.


just started tinkering with it ...with mixed results.

what are you shooting images of?
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Offline moot

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88's moonrise tutorial
« Reply #23 on: August 30, 2007, 02:17:52 PM »
Err.. construction equipment :D
I'm trying to figure out why HDR is done strictly (as far as I can tell) with EV variance but not ISO or shutter speed.  

These are from my first day with the camera, unedited. I did most of it on auto, later in the day I started playing with the manual modes but only now am examining the pics.  The composition of the pics I'll worry about later.. what I need now is understand how to make the pictures' objects stick out as clear and easy to grasp as possible.   They will be reference pictures for a catalog of sorts, a reference book for constructions site bosses to make their battle plans with.  
The whole catalog is done from scratch by me and I'm a bit short on time, so I need to start taking quality pics asap.. there's maybe two hundred items to capture before the rest of the catalog layout can be done.
I'm going to need a stand, holding the camera still for the auto-bracketing shots is impossible..  I guess I will start by letting CS3 automate the HDR processing to save some time, for now.

I'll be using this camera for other things once I'm done with this project.. It's actualy not that bad, I took the moonshots pics off hand in almost total dark at 5am.
I could only see the clouds with my naked eyes.  The zoom isn't modular, so I don't know if it will be any use taking nightsky pics besides some average moon shots and timelapse star tracks...  I've always wanted to get started in photography, I can't wait to have some time to go shooting on my own. :)   There's a lot of picturesque stuff here to keep me busy.

So are ISO and shutter speed no use for HDR effects?
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Offline JB88

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« Reply #24 on: August 30, 2007, 02:36:10 PM »
shutter speed and aperture are what determine exposure value...so you are half correct.

ISO is what determines the light sensitivity setting of the camera....so, by bracketing iso you would be altering the base constant of the images that you are wanting to merge.  

from what i am understanding of HDR thus far, the process for attaining the images is exactly like you would do it with film...i.e.- bracketing f stops and or shutter speeds to ensure that you get an image with the best amount of information.

it makes sense why iso (sensativity) would be constant because it needs a stable base to compile all of the images together from.

or at least that is what i imagine to be the case.
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Offline moot

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« Reply #25 on: August 30, 2007, 02:42:11 PM »
Well I don't get it, then.  Shutter speed, ISO, and the EV settings are independently adjustable on my camera. :)
I see why shutter speed and ISO/EV will do the same thing different ways (shooting fast motion for ex.), but what's the difference between ISO and EV?

I get it. EV is the light throughput, shutter speed is exposure time, and ISO is "film" sensitivity.
« Last Edit: August 30, 2007, 02:56:22 PM by moot »
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Offline JB88

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« Reply #26 on: August 30, 2007, 03:08:48 PM »
ISO in digital might be better stated as the signal to noise ratio.  

if you are merging like images together and wish to produce a more or less seamless final product, you want that to be a constant.
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Offline Mark Luper

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« Reply #27 on: August 30, 2007, 04:51:29 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by JB88
ISO in digital might be better stated as the signal to noise ratio.  

if you are merging like images together and wish to produce a more or less seamless final product, you want that to be a constant.


In a film camera you use a high ISO numbered film to enable you to take pictures with less light. Of course what you said about a signal to noise ratio is a lot of it. The pictures with high ISO settings are grainyer. I have used high ISO settings, 800 for example, in a setting I couldn't use flash. I was shooting some pics of my grandson's highschool graduation and was hand holding a telephoto lens. They came out good, but there is some noise or grainyness in them that would really show up on a large print.

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