Author Topic: Free Track (the free TrackIR)  (Read 4108 times)

Offline The Fugitive

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Free Track (the free TrackIR)
« on: January 06, 2008, 11:54:18 AM »
OK, I took the plunge and built my "free track" rig. For those of you that don't know what it is, its a free version of a "TrackIR" set-up. Free Tracker is the software that you get You have to provide the hardware.

For hardware, I picked up a "Microsoft LifeCam VX-3000 on Ebay for $15. I did remove the IR filter as described    Once you pop the cover off the lens unscrews and you can pop the IR filter out with a razor knife. I then cut the end off of an old negative to tape over the front to act as a light shield.

 

Next, the components for the "rig", I bought from RadioShack...

9 volt battery plug
5 pack of 10 ohm resistors
3 Infrared LEDs (not the exact ones I have)
a 9 volt battery, and a on-off switch.

They make it pretty easy to figure out what you need for your circuit. At the site they have a
LED Assembly Wizard You just type in the values, and it will put up a picture of the circuit, with the vales of the resistors you need. In my case I was using a 9v battery, and LEDs with 1.5 volt pass, and 150ma current. The wizard says I need 30 ohms resistance, so I added 3 10 ohm resistors in series like the picture shows.

Below is what my rig looks like...



This was the second one I made. Going by the web page I used the measurements they had listed. Top LED 30mm out, and 30mm above the center LED, and the bottom LED 40mm out, and 40mm below the center LED. With this small a rig, and having my camara only about 30 inches away, it had a hard time picking up the up-down movement. The second rig was made twice as big.....



The measurements are important, because you have to type that info into the FreeTacker program in set up. I added the on-off switch, save on the trouble of plugging and unplugging the battery. The velcro strap easily wraps around both the battery, and the headset I use.

Also, as suggested on the site I filed down the tips of the LEDs. The rounded tips focus the IR light to a smaller dot, by filing them flat the light makes a bigger beam, making it easier for tyhe camara to pick up.

 !

Pretty...no, but it does work  
:D
« Last Edit: January 06, 2008, 11:59:00 AM by The Fugitive »

Offline Larry

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« Reply #1 on: January 06, 2008, 12:13:28 PM »
How much would you charge to make me one and mail it to me? Im no good with electronics.
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Offline DoNKeY

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« Reply #2 on: January 06, 2008, 12:34:14 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Larry
How much would you charge to make me one and mail it to me? Im no good with electronics.


Same if my attempt blows up in my face

You might be able to pay for your subscription with this hehe.

donkey

Edit:  Any performance hits using this??
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Offline The Fugitive

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« Reply #3 on: January 06, 2008, 12:35:06 PM »
Now, for the software......

The write-ups in english are incomplete, and a bit confusing. Down load the program , and install it. Installation was easy, no worries about dll files or such. After installing your camera, and the program, start the FreeTracker program.

The first thing you do is select your camera on the middle right drop down box. If you don't, it will run a "demo" when you hit the start button. Once you select your camera, you can use the button to adjust the setting on your camera. Start at default, and once you get things up and running, you can tweak things as needed.

Next select the "3 points" clip (in my case), and then the "set up" button. Here is where you type in the dimensions of your rig. Turn your rig on, and click the "cam" button, then click the "start" button. Adjust the "threshold" slider to the right to lower the number of "points" the camera picks up until you have just the three on your rig.

From here on out its all tweaking. I had to adjust my camera a bit to get it to see the 3 points with out background interference showing up. Of course I wasn't easy on the thing, my room is well lite, and thats how I like it. A darker room would have made things much easier, but not as comfortable. There are a number of sliders to adjust the "speed" and throw" of your head movements as well as the input it gives in the game. The only adjustment to make in the game is to go to "views" and click the TrackIR box to enable it.

For the good.....

It was easy to put together, and once I figured out that you had to select the camera BEFORE you hit start the software wasn't too tuff to figure out. It worked the first time, even BEFORE I modified the camera, but works much better with the minor mods.

For the bad.....

I do take a "hit" to my system, and loose about 10 FPS max so far (pretty heavy furball so I think its about the highest), but that only drops me to about 50-55 when it gets nasty. Remember, I am only running a 3.2 gig CPU, and thats a single, NOT a duo. So its not too bad a hit.

Adjusting the "dead spot" sucks. It has 3 settings, small, medium, or large. While I like that as I get my head pointed towards the front it "snaps" to the front view and holds there, there is a bit of delay when I turn my head. I'd like to make the dead spot smaller, but havn't found a way to yet.

6 view sucks, but on the plus side, the views assigned to my stick are not turned off while in tracker mode. To get the 6 view I use my stick 6 view, and can slide my head around the headrest with head movement. A little strange, but I can get use to it.

Over all, I'm impressed ! For $30 I have a good working model, and I can really spend some time trying it out to see how I like it in the game. Should I decide I don't like it, I'm only out a few bucks. So far its been fun plying around with it, and I got my first kill with it last night  :D  Getting centered up for my shot is a bit tuff. I never knew how much I was jumping around in my seat when in a good dog fight !!! Now I know "why" the wife was laughing at me all the time !!!

Offline The Fugitive

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« Reply #4 on: January 06, 2008, 12:41:59 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Larry
How much would you charge to make me one and mail it to me? Im no good with electronics.


Its pretty easy to do, you don't have to be a electronic pro to do it. You could get away with just twisting the wires together and taping everything. I used so 1/4 inch plywood as my framework, and hot glued all the parts to it.

Give it a shot !

Offline wreckedem

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« Reply #5 on: January 06, 2008, 12:43:33 PM »
hey, thanks for sharing this.  My two sons are going to try to do this same thing, and hopefully it works out so they stay the bleep off of my machine (you know, the one with the X52 and track IR!) when I am not home.

Offline DoNKeY

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« Reply #6 on: January 06, 2008, 01:32:34 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by The Fugitive


I do take a "hit" to my system, and loose about 10 FPS max so far (pretty heavy furball so I think its about the highest), but that only drops me to about 50-55 when it gets nasty. Remember, I am only running a 3.2 gig CPU, and thats a single, NOT a duo. So its not too bad a hit.



6 view sucks, but on the plus side, the views assigned to my stick are not turned off while in tracker mode. To get the 6 view I use my stick 6 view, and can slide my head around the headrest with head movement. A little strange, but I can get use to it.

 


So with a duel core or whatever, the hit should be less?  And what do you mean exactly by the "6 view sucks?"

Thanks,
donkey
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Offline Gianlupo

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« Reply #7 on: January 06, 2008, 01:46:58 PM »
I think he just has to get used to it, Donkey. When using those kind of devices, if you simply turn your head, the view at 6 o'clock will be centered on the headrest, like in the default view. You have to tilt the head in a direction or another to actually view what's on your 6. And, while with a hat switch you can just save the head position with F10, you can't do that with a head tracking program and have to get used to turn and move your head.

Fugitive, I'm glad to know that it works, thanks for sharing. Sooner or later I'll find the time to build one of those set up.... :)
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Offline DoNKeY

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« Reply #8 on: January 06, 2008, 02:21:28 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by Gianlupo
I think he just has to get used to it, Donkey. When using those kind of devices, if you simply turn your head, the view at 6 o'clock will be centered on the headrest, like in the default view. You have to tilt the head in a direction or another to actually view what's on your 6. And, while with a hat switch you can just save the head position with F10, you can't do that with a head tracking program and have to get used to turn and move your head.

Fugitive, I'm glad to know that it works, thanks for sharing. Sooner or later I'll find the time to build one of those set up.... :)


Ahh ok, wasn't really sure what he meant by that.

donkey
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Offline RATTFINK

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« Reply #9 on: January 06, 2008, 02:47:56 PM »
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Offline Fulmar

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« Reply #10 on: January 06, 2008, 02:58:38 PM »
Awesome, I could probably build something myself.

and maybe a better looking

:p

EDIT:

How long does that battery last?  Typical 9 volt alkalines are roughly 250mah.  But I have access to lithium 9 volts which are around 1200mah.  Or I could rig up some CR123's in series.  The options are endless.
« Last Edit: January 06, 2008, 03:05:45 PM by Fulmar »
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Offline Shuffler

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« Reply #11 on: January 06, 2008, 03:08:25 PM »
Blasa wood would work even better. Would not have as much weight and easy to use.
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Offline Flint

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« Reply #12 on: January 06, 2008, 03:10:32 PM »
Congrats Fugitive - I'm a big fan of this freeware.

May i suggest you play around with the sensitivity curves instead of the deadspot. This way you can scale the head movements, giving you a fairly still centre and still the abilty to snap round to your six with about a 20 degree turn.

I'm sure a search  in the hardware section of this forum will result in some profiles to try out.

Offline The Fugitive

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« Reply #13 on: January 06, 2008, 03:10:57 PM »
Quote
Originally posted by DoNKeY
So with a duel core or whatever, the hit should be less?  And what do you mean exactly by the "6 view sucks?"

Thanks,
donkey


If you use a decent camera, you most likely won't see any drop in FPS with a DUO core.

The 6 view centered on the headrest. By sliding my head to the left and right I can see around it, but I'm just use to the saved view being a good view right off.


Quote
Originally posted by Fulmar
Awesome, I could probably build something myself.

and maybe a better looking



EDIT:

How long does that battery last? Typical 9 volt alkalines are roughly 250mah. But I have access to lithium 9 volts which are around 1200mah. Or I could rig up some CR123's in series. The options are endless.


Now that I know it works, ya I could make a prettier one! :p  Not sure how long the battery lasts, got about 4 hours on this one, with all the testing and tweaking.

Offline Flint

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« Reply #14 on: January 06, 2008, 03:50:00 PM »
Forgot to mention batteries not the only way to go - my rig uses an old 15v 800mA  AC-DC adapter from some christmas lights. Just got factor in root2 'cos of  the rectifier for the resistance calculation and have a wire dangling but saves on batteries :)