F4U help or a clip

[Saxman]

Depends on the situation. Under some circumstances, especially if your intent is to maintain speed, you want to retract them once you no longer need them for the turn or maneuver.

[Spikes]

I prefer the -1. I have no reason, just when I gotta fly a CV plane I'll pick that model.

If I'm going joyriding I'll bring a C-hog, but if there's not much air cover I'll bring a D-hog.

The -4 is fine when I take it out once in a while. Best prop in the game.

[The Fugitive]

If its just the two of you, and the other guys getting slow too, its ok to get slow.

 If your in the mains and there are a number of cons around, the smarter thing to do is pop your flaps, make your move, take a shot, pull them flaps back in and do a quick check around to reassess the situation as you extend a bit.

[Simaril]

Originally posted by SgtPappy
....
Also, I'm not too sure about the Corsair 'turning tighter' than Spitfires so much as turning faster........

In a dead flat turn, the corsair does make a smaller turn..and yeah, there have been times that I can use that to win. But not usually.

Because the spits -- especially the VIII and XVI -- have better thrust to weight ratios, they climb and accelerate better than the heavy hogs. (Assuming a co-E start; the Hogs do zoom well.) So, a spit pilot that knows his stuff will keep the nose up while turning, making a spiral climb instead of a flat turn. Even though the hog with full flaps can turn more tightly in a FLAT circle, once the climb starts time is on the spitfire's side.

If you get slow in a Hog, you better finish your work QUICKLY and get out of there. Otherwise, you will be in big trouble quickly.

[SgtPappy]

Ah yes, I looked up some of WW's more recent tests and found that he had similar results to the Gonzo charts.

I just thought the Gonzo charts weren't as reliable since they are still based on the old flight model of Hogs, but the turning for both old and new Hog remains the same.

[splitatom]

i prefer the 1a because of its incresed fuel range and that it can still take damage and can have a fuel leak and actualy make it back to base

[TequilaChaser]

Scca,
my apologies for not addressing your request sooner, shoot me an email (or PM prefered) and we see about doing it this weekend if you like. ( recently had a 2nd division handed over to me to run, got 2 full plates on me during the week :-/ )

as for the question / comment of the Spitfire climbing out on the F4U, my theory or opinion is the spit flyer has to be a very good pile-it and know how to turn without draining his E,  The F4U ( which mostly are flown by people who know a thing or 2 about them ), will most times be able to hang with the spit in a spiral climb if not actually overtake the spit,  The spit in my thinking would have to get a good jump on the angles advantage and good distance/seperation on the F4U to pull it off....  too many variables really , this scenario is like 50/50 either way....discussing it here on boards and talking about flying Main Arenas...

As for using "Dropping gear" , I recommend to use this only in EXTREME situations...I probably can count on my 10 fingers how many times I have used "Dropping Gear" in the F4U in the whole time I have been here flying........( and most times it was against another F4U pilot of good caliber )

As to when and when not to use flaps: One should really learn their planes characteristics, meaning: know at what speeds each flap setting is designed for in your particular plane.
A quick and easy simple way to test/learn/write down your planes flap setting speeds is to:

• get up around 5,000 ft alt ( 5K )....
• slow down in level flight enough to get all flaps out ( Full Flaps out/down )
• push stick forward, putting plane in to a 20 to 30 degree dive
• Speed will begin to pick up now, start watching the MPH gauge ( IAS = indicated air speed = white needle )
• look for and write down the speed each time a flap setting automatically retracts
• do this for every flap setting until all flaps are retracted back in
• with this information, learn to use your flap settings within their respective speed ranges
• Then PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE
• as Ren quotes: Train Like You Fight, Fight Like You Train!

hope this is of some use to someone - cya up

[SgtPappy]

It's not the spiral climb that allows the Spitfire to beat a Hog...
The hog spirals WAY better than the Spitfire. It's the vertical loops that can do more for the Spitfire. The Hog zooms much better but if it needs to tighten the loop with a Spit, it needs to drop its flaps, thereby allowing the Spitfire pilot a few options: accelerate or sustain climb for some separation, or change direction in a lag-pursuit sort of way to allow for the acceleration to shine. I'm not sure how to explain it; I wish I could play someday soon to train a bit more and film it.

I've been wanting to go to the TA badly and fly the Spit14 to learn a few E-management tactics, similar to the lag-pursuits in the P-38 films someone posted late in 2007. It's a new way to fly a not-so-easy-mode version of my favourite plane.

[BluKitty]

Well I prefer the F4u1d or the F4u4 of course

Since you asked for a flick below is a link to film I made earlier this week.
I'm a bit rusty, but maybe it will give you a few ideas on how to handle the hog.  

You should pay attention to the flap control.  You can't see the rudder, but one of the f4u's greatest assets is it's rudder. Hope the film helps give you some ideas to try, the hog is a great plane.

http://www.speedyshare.com/290737646.html

[Saxman]

They seriously need to have the film viewer track control surface position. I think I mentioned above but it would be a LOT easier to show when to use rudder rather than tell.

But to put it into perspective:

My X/O for a long time had a twisty stick for rudder. Then he got a set of pedals and flying the Hog afterwards was like night and day. The rudder in the Hog is one of the most effective of ANY ship in the game, not just because it has strong authority, but because it has strong authority at almost ALL airspeeds.

In most aircraft the rudder only makes a real difference when slow. However that big sail the Hog has on its rear is EXTREMELY effective at higher speeds, which can be a difference maker. It also really whips the nose around through wingovers or other high-AOA maneuvers. Proper execution you can catch a LOT of opponents by surprise with how fast you can swing around and drop on them at the top of a zoom. I've used it to effect getting a snapshot off I wouldn't ordinarily be able to make at high speeds (350-400mph!!!), including during off-angle merges (one particular incident I was coming in nose-to-nose with a Typhoon. He was off to my right, enough I couldn't turn in to get a shot without generating a HO which I would lose against those cannon. Instead I kicked full inside rudder to skid and got off a shot that struck the cockpit. A second later due to net lag JimBeam went "POP!" ). That sort of skid is not something most aircraft can pull off in that speed range!

[Getback]

I'll make mine short and sweet.

F4u4- I use it for air to air solely, except one day I forgot I was in one.
F4 C- For vulching, bombers, town. In that order
F41a - has long legs fights well, mostly air to air.
F4U 1D - for jabos and then still have the ability to get into the mix. Very vesatile plane like the F4 C and, if you dare the, f4u4.

Landing, use light left brake on landing and left rudder as needed. Once slow enought pull back the stick to lock the rear wheel on the runway. I can land them with no bounce most of the time.


This is my favorite plane set.


Still learned some things from you folks. Thanks