Originally posted by lazs2
Yep dred.. I would guarantee that my stuff would stick but not what it was over if I hung over someone elses work. I used clay based (surestick 111) for everything except the flexwoods.
forget removing it unless I had done the wall prep.. Used alkyd flat enamel to prep the walls. old school even back then but nothing else works as good.
If you are using a flat peice of plastic to smooth your work (rectangle maybe 4" x 5" and an eight inch thick).. the first person to do so was my partner in 1970.. it was a chunk of broken plastic mirror from a hyatt hotel he was doing.. never used a brush again.. he taught me using that tool. Now you can actually buy em. We hung every material ever made.. we double cut in almost everything.
ever use a paste machine on commercial work?
lazs
Used a paste machne a couple of times whe I worked at a Hospital.
Nice item But not worth the expence for me for the residential work I primarily do. If all id did was wall paper then it might make sense. but it seems to come in waves. I'll have 3-4 papering jobs in a row, then wont see another for 6 months.
Plus its just something else I'd have to clean
Clay based is best for the heavier commercial paper. Which seemed to me to be more like canvas then paper anyway.
I stay away from the clay based adhesives as they are harder to remove and most of my customers become repeat customers and I dont want to make removing the stuff in the future any worse then it has to be for myself.
I dont use a standard papering table either.
Most are made of wood and I find the paste can be a real PIA to clean off. Instead I picked up a folding 6' plastic banquit table from Home Depot.
Works great and the paste residue cleans up real easy
Hell of alot cheaper too
Most of the stuff I get to play with is pre pasted. I use the paste activator which works well. But I'll keep some vinyl over vinyl boarder adhesive for any of those areas that just dont want to stay put
Did one job about a year ago where the manufacturers instructions were to paste the wall then apply the paper to the pasted wall. I still prefer pasting the paper first.
I've used the plasic almost from the beginning. Figured out real quick that the brush just didnt cut it.
When I can get it I'll take a couple of peices of scrap formica and glue them together and cut them to whatever size I want. If you get the right thicknesses it works even better then the plastic. Particularly in corners and tight areas.
I find Zinnzer makes the best wallpapering primer. Their latex stuff works real well.
Oils arent what they used to be because of reformulation for VOC compliences. and really arent holding up any better then the latex'snow which have improved greatly in the last 25 years.
The only time I use oils of any kind anymoreis Varnishes over previously varnished stuff. And metal porch railings. And as a primer after I've removed Wallpaper andf prior to painting.
I use the Kills fast drying (about an hour)low odor oil based primer after I have stripped the paper and before I paint the walls.
I do this to prevent any paste residue I migth have missed from flaking up in the future after its been painted.
I find the latex primers. Even those advertised for the same application. do not work as well as the oil based i preventing that.
usually I'll prime ne day then paint the next with that stuff as if its goig to flake at all. it does it within the first 24 hours. But thats rare.
For Paper and paste removal I dont waste my money on Diff.
Usually Ill use a mild detergent, Mr Clean. Fabric softener, Vinagar, or just plain hot wwater.
I try to stay away from the vinagar as it makes the entire house smell like a salad.
but with Diff. I find if it doeast come off easy with any of the others. Diff doesnt make it any easier either.
LOL