CH Fighterstick - how do I clean pots?

[Max]

The X axis on my stick is porked. My guess is worn or dirty pots. How do ya clean em and with what do ya clean em.

Thanks

[llama]

Even better than cleaning: go to the CH website and order up some new pots. They're about $10 each. Buy two, since if one pot is going bad, the other is sure to follow soon.

-Llama

[Chalenge]

Cleaning will not give you more then a few months more life and not a whole lot more money so like llama said...

You can get tv tuner cleaner or electronic tuner cleaner (name varies) from radio shack or some other electronic store depending on where you live. Like I said though its a temporary fix.

[Auger]

Radio Shack used to carry "Tuner Control" cleaner and lubricant, but you probably won't find it there any more.  But, just in case they haven't gone completely non-technical, the catalog number is 64-4315.  I keep a can on the desk.  You never know when you might need to clean a pot.

If the pots in your CH stick are spikey/jumpy, it probably is time to replace them.  The way the stick is constructed makes it hard to get dirt or dust in them.

[Max]

Thanks much for the replies and advice. My Fighterstick is leass than 2 years old. Is this "normal"?

[HomeBoy]

Max,
Yes, it is VERY unusual for a USB driven  pot to get "dirty" and go bad.  I suspect a calibration issue or that you have accidentally moved the "trim wheels."  Those two trim wheels on your stick (not the throttle wheel) should NEVER be moved off center.  Fooling with them can certainly cause the behavior you describe.  I would first check those trim wheels, than make sure you perform a good calibration at the Windows Game Controllers utility (not Aces High calibration) and then finally calibrate from within the game.

I know these controllers inside and out and I have yet to see a "dirty" pot.  That's not to say it can't happen but I really doubt that's your problem.  It could also be a USB power issue.  Many guys go to a powered USB hub because their computer's USB devices cannot provide adequate power.  That would be my third suspicion.

[Chalenge]

No its not normal. A CH stick even with flying every day should last a lot longer then two years. My last rudder pedals (still working) lasted seven years for me before I asked for a show of hands and sent them to the first squaddie that asked (they felt too loose to me). I think with the fighterstick the first thing to go is usually the springs. HomeBoy is the man on these things so listen to him.

[lengro]

Thanks much for the replies and advice. My Fighterstick is leass than 2 years old. Is this "normal"?

Hi Max,

5 months ago I replaced 2 pots in my CH Fighterstick when it was 16 months old - it had developed a small dead area on both x and y axis.

No problems since.

[doleboy]

[Max]

All possible causes, mentioned by Homeboy, were checked and ok prior to my post.

So back to the question, "how do I clean the pots?"

I assume I have to remove the bottom base with the screws hiding behind the rubber desk washers? Will I see the pots after the bottom's off? Then what? WD40 on a Q-tip? Come on guys...work with me here

[Max]

Relocated all HOTAS gear off the powered hub and my Fighterstick is A-OK..Weird 

[HomeBoy]

So it was either calibration or bad power after all.

[llama]

The pots in my ch pedals started getting flaky after 13 YEARS of very regular use. New pots made them as good as new.

The pots in my similarly aged thrustmaster gear are getting a little worn too.

Two years is way too early...

-Llama

[Ack-Ack]

Cleaning will not give you more then a few months more life and not a whole lot more money so like llama said...

It depends on the condition of the potentiometer(s).  If it's just a case of a dirty contact then cleaning the contacts with contact cleaner is a far better solution then being bent over a couch and raped for $12 to buy a single potentiometer. 

Frankly, CH is robbing its customers by charging that much.  When I was still there, we used to give them for free if a customer had a potentiometer go bad and if they just wanted spares, then we charged $12 for 4.


ack-ack