re-barrel question

[FX1]

My father handed me down a Remington 700.built in the early 70's. Over time the barrel was shot out and I can see that the rifle in the.bore is in bad shape with my bore scope. I do have experince with re-barreling pistols but this will be my first rifle project. My question is that I have no idea what barrel company produces quality product. Also my gunsmith doesn't re-barrel and I can't find anyone local that will perform the work. If anyone has a idea on cost and if you have any tips please bring up to speed on new tech of barrel production.

spec's
700 adl
.270 
Scope zeiss 4-14x

[Captain Virgil Hilts]

Best value for the dollar would be ER Shaw, they'll put a new barrel on it and take care of all of the related work.

It is not worth it to get everything you need to do the work unless you intend to do it often.

[FX1]

I sent Er a email today and had a response the same day. Looks like its a really good quality and price. I need to really look at what length their are several to pick from.

Sent a email back to him for his opinion.

[Captain Virgil Hilts]

For a 270, there's not a lot to be gained above 20" to 22". Mine is a Model 70, with a 22" barrel.

[Reschke]

I agree with what Virgil is saying. My dad has a Ruger M77 .270 that had a 24" barrel on it and he had a gunsmith knock it down to 20" in length. In all honesty I believe it shoots better in that length than it did when it was 24" long.

[Captain Virgil Hilts]

When deciding on barrel length, consider your ammunition, slower burning powders needed to develop higher velocities require longer barrels to burn in. The .270 is based on the 30-06 case, slightly longer than the .308 case. Factory ammunition may be optimized for 20" barrels. My handloads are not. Also consider where you are shooting. The closer and denser the wooded area, the shorter the shot, and also the easier it is comparatively to handle a shorter weapon. If you go shorter on the barrel, get a larger diameter, or at least a lesser taper. Short barrels can be accurate, but only if they are stiff. Short barrels in those skinny little light sporter tapers are not real stable, nor are they consistently accurate.

[Rich46yo]

All mine are 24". I dont like short barrels, "oh maybe on a lever", but as far as big game bolt actions?? Give me a 24" every time. I prefer loading for longer barrels and getting the extra velocity. But more then that the rifle feels more balanced and the extra weight is nothing. If I lived in a heavy timbered rifle deer state maybe I'd feel different but all my rifle hunting is done out west ,or north, or Africa.

Why not call Remington? See what they say.

[RipChord929]

When a cartridge is fired in the chamber of a rifle
it sets off an oscillation in the barrel.. In the WHOLE
barrel, chamber to muzzle... As the bullet travels down
the barrel, the oscillation increases in frequency..
It can be viewed much like a electrical sign wave on an
oscilliscope. With the baseline, and the active signal
passing above and below the baseline.. As the bullet
travels down the barrel, the wavelength decreases, which
increases the frequency of the oscillation, until the bullet
leaves the muzzle.. Like the whipsaw effect...
This whipsaw effect can be altered by the thickness and
taper of the barrel, the method of its bedding, (full bedding,
post bedding, or free floating).. And the speed of the bullet..
This effect is universal, to ALL gunbarrels..

For optimum consistancy, (optimum accuracy) the bullet
will leave the muzzle exactly at the moment when the
oscillation passes thru the baseline...

There are other factors in this oscillation as well, density of
the steel, lay of the grain during the forging process, temperature..
No two barrels will be identicle, even from the same lot of steel
and the same forge..

Common practice is to adjust your loads to the barrel, which
can control this effect.. rather than the barrel to the loading..
It'll make a tremendous difference, when you find that sweet
loading, that matches the barrel...

  Good luck
RC

[Maverick]

My recommendation would be for the 22" barrel. While I am a fan of the short "scout" type of rifle it is for the shorter cartridges like the .308 or the .223. For long cased rounds the longer barrel gives you more options and less muzzle blast as you can use the longer burning powders to better effect.

Depending on what you are going to use the rifle for your options on taper are going to be important. If it's a long carry and shoot infrequently gun like for antelope I'd go with a slim barrel. If it's a varmint gun, go with a bull barrel and flute it for cooling without loss of rigidity

[Rich46yo]

I have a few rifles, and with all things perfect, I can put 3 bullets into a group at 100 yrds that I can cover with a dime.

What ripchord says is exactly the truth. Made even more so by barrel harmonization like with the Browning BOSS system. The reason why the BOSS never caught on that well is cause 90% of shooters buy a box before season to zero in with and then a box to hunt with. To really see what its capable of you have to be a loony tune like me who will spend an entire day loading 20 perfect rounds and spend time with the BOSS. And theres a lot to figure out to make the perfect load for a particular rifle. Case trim weights, case trim lengths, case cycle amounts, bullet weight, "all of these get individually weighed and separated" even from the same box. Bullet seating has to be matched perfectly to the barrel throat. Powder charges have to be weighed to the grain. Primers weighed and seated perfectly. And lastly all componants matched to work in perfect harmony.

And then you have it. The perfect 20 for your particular rifle. In reality all this is meaningless for the hunter where 1 to 2 MOA is perfectly acceptable to fill a freezer. I'm no long distance shooter or expert rifleman but if an animal is within 350 yrds of me its as good as dead. I dont shoot longer cause making something bleed isn't important enough to me to risk crippling a big game animal.

22" sounds like a fine all around barrel for a .270. I'm mostly an IMR-4350 guy but I tend to shoot rifles with big holes at the end. Ive had good results in calibers like the .243 with it as well.

Do yourself a favor. Fix the rifle up and give it to your kid. And good luck with it and good hunting.

[Captain Virgil Hilts]

We fooled with the BOSS stuff, and hated it. I wouldn't give you a dime for one. In fact, having that on a rifle is a good reason to either get rid of it or get it rebarreled.

When loading stuff for my really accurate rifles, I weigh the bullet and the powder charge to the tenth of a grain, and group the cases by how much volume they hold. I also anneal the case necks, make the flash holes uniform, and trim/turn the cases.

[Reschke]

My dad  prefers the shorter barrels in a scouting/stalk hunting situation since that is how we predominantly hunt in the area around his house. I prefer to hunt with my iron sight Model 94 .30-30 for the same reason.

I like to shoot a lot and like to shoot long range just because it is fun for me to see how close I can get to the middle of the target at 500 meters and beyond. I don't spend as much time doing it as I did in the past but I now have a 12 year old that wants to start shooting targets year round before he goes hunting.

[Rich46yo]

What caliber was the BOSS rifle? The most success storys I get from them are in the .300 mags and .338 mags.

[WWM]

I re-barreled one with a Krieger SS in 260Rem.  I love that cartridge and Krieger is the only one I know of that does cut rifling.  Everyone has their opinion but I like the cut better then the button or hammer forged..less stress.  Midwayusa actually stocks some Krieger barrels or you could order one direct...  they also do smith work or any good smith should be able to chamber, cut, crown, and install.

Good Luck