It's got 145k and its a manual. It's got newish synchronizers and new tie rod ends that you can actually grease, new clutch at about 100k, but I tow a trailer with it. In my area used small trucks command a bit of a premium but let's say I could buy the running version for 1200. I'll take the valve cover off and do the leak down. My feeling is that if any of the valve train is badly worn I'll be spending 500. Does this sound right for head rebuilding, gaskets, timing belt?
Pemb I hate to say that you can rebuild the head, gaskets and timing belt for $500, because I don't know what kind of shape it's in, or what your abilities are. I don't mean that in a derogatory way, but not everyone has done a valve job or has the tools to remove and check valve springs etc. A cam and followers will run you around $250 so with head gasket set and timing belt you're pushing $450 right there. If any of the valves are burnt, the guides are worn, or you need to replace any of the valve springs or keepers that will push it over the $500 mark. You might check into a re-man head and see what they run in your area, If you can find one. Best thing to do is go ahead and do your leak down test and go from there.
I did my sisters pinto in the mid eighties and I had to replace the head because it was cracked. She swore it never got hot but it only had idiot lights and she did drive it home.
I still have the special head bolt tool that I have never used since. Looks like a giant torx wrench.
Do you guys have Haynes Manuals and is there one for that truck? I wouldnt do much more than changing plugs and filters without one, they are brilliant.
Holmes the diesel version of the ranger is rarer than hens teeth, at least around here, so I'm pretty sure he has the gasoline engine.
Personally I hate the Haynes, and Climbers(sp) manuals. Not sure if they are different on the other side of the pond, but everyone I have ever had always has passages that say something like "this job is beyond the average enthusiasts ability, and should be taken to a qualified service technician." I want to know how it should be done and not that they think I should pay someone to do the job for me. So I stick with Chilton manuals. If you can find them MOTOR, or Mitchell manuals are what the professional shops generally use. I know that MOTOR has combined with ALLDATA and they offer their manuals online, but iirc they are still pretty spendy. Not sure if Mitchell has an online source or if they are even still around. The standard non pro Chilton should cost around $30. You can find them online for less, but after paying shipping it still comes out to about $30.
