P-51D Skin Wanted - But Can It Be Done?

[HornetUK]

well my offer is there is you want the help!

[Vraciu]

If you like I could try to make you a sheet for the bumpmat and the spect sheet if you were to send them to me, then you could see what I have done

b.p.s.d32@gmail.com if my email if you would like to take up the offer just send me your original file with all the separate layers in it!

Email on the way.  Thank you kindly.

[Vraciu]

If you kept your layers separate creating a bump mapping will be fairly easy:

Make a solid layer filled with RGB value: 128, 128, 128. Duplicate your rivet, panel line, and other raised/lowered detail layers, place them on that solid image and adjust their transparency to tweak how dark/light they are, merge the layer, then convert the whole thing to grayscale. You now have a functional bump map.

Follow the instructions Skuzzy lists on the forum for saving and creating the TXT file, and voila.

Hmmmmmm....  Okay.  Sounds easy but I just know it is gonna be a nightmare.  Lol!


(It does have detail.  This is an in-progress shot, but it shows the subtlety of the panel lines.  They're not that obvious at a distance.  I tried every shade imaginable.  This one seemed to be the best color...)

http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=360232.0;attach=18956

[lunatic1]

Well, the actual airplane was quite clean.  I may add exhaust stains to it but they would be very subtle.  I minimized weathering on purpose based on the limited photos we have.  This was a well-cared-for bird.

With regard to weathering I am a firm believer that less is more.  Most of the time it is overdone.  


Note how clean the area behind the exhaust is on "Old Crow" (Bud Anderson).

(Image removed from quote.)

(Image removed from quote.)

Many crew chiefs took great care of their planes, wiping them down after missions and so forth.  Blakeslee, Preddy, Yeager, and many average Joe pilots have pictures of their planes looking quite clean.  Some were for PR purposes and some were just that way because they were babied.  

(Image removed from quote.)


Yours is a fair critique regardless.   I thank you.  

the CRIP'S A'MIGHTY IS THE SKIN  I FLY WITH

[Vraciu]

the CRIP'S A'MIGHTY IS THE SKIN  I FLY WITH

Great fighter pilot.   Sad end.

[Vraciu]

I can update this skin as needed after submission right?

How often are new skins released?

[Greebo]

You can not currently update a skin once it is under review and the review process begins shortly after you have submitted it, a few days at most. The skins submission page is not yet set up for updates to existing skins, although it is intended for this feature to be added in the future.

Batches of skins are processed by HTC about once a month on average.

[Vraciu]

You can not currently update a skin once it is under review and the review process begins shortly after you have submitted it, a few days at most. The skins submission page is not yet set up for updates to existing skins, although it is intended for this feature to be added in the future.

Batches of skins are processed by HTC about once a month on average.

Thanks, Greebo. 

[Vraciu]

Talked to Skuzzy today. I need to submit a bump map or it will use the default, which will make it completely screwy.  So, looks like I won't get it in on this round.  That's good as it gives me motivation to bump map this turkey.  I am grateful for all the advice on how to do so and will get started right away.

[Vraciu]

Oh man, I am so glad I am trying this bumping feature.  It really helps reduce the shine on the parts that should be dull (the spec map doesn't quite get there).

So............   Greebo taught me how to create additional layers and in effect take a one- or two-layer file into multiple layers.   For now I am "pulling out" the panel lines and it is working great but....

These bumps look grotesque.  They are obviously "opposite" they way they should be.   Is the solution to "negative image" the bump map?  Also, I prefer subtle panel lines and rivets going INWARD not out.  What am I doing wrong?

[Devil 505]

If the areas that you want indented are darker than the neutral gray, then you are doing it correctly. Remember, black for indents and white for bumps. If that is what you currently have, reverse the colors where needed.

[Vraciu]

If the areas that you want indented are darker than the neutral gray, then you are doing it correctly. Remember, black for indents and white for bumps. If that is what you currently have, reverse the colors where needed.

Got it.  And the smaller the variation from the base color the smaller the bump effect, right?   Neutral gray meaning my base color or is there a bump map neutral value? (Seems obvious but again, I am like a five-year old when it comes to this since it is all COMPLETELY new to me.)

[Vraciu]

Also, if I want to "silver" the skin in-game, do I need to lighten it on the base layer or should I use some other layer with an opaque setting ON TOP of the base?

Thanks for being patient with me.  I know I am exasperating to you experts...

[Devil 505]

Got it.  And the smaller the variation from the base color the smaller the bump effect, right?   Neutral gray meaning my base color or is there a bump map neutral value? (Seems obvious but again, I am like a five-year old when it comes to this since it is all COMPLETELY new to me.)

The neutral value is a RGB value of 128, see this screen shot.

[Devil 505]

Also, if I want to "silver" the skin in-game, do I need to lighten it on the base layer or should I use some other layer with an opaque setting ON TOP of the base?

Thanks for being patient with me.  I know I am exasperating to you experts...

You're talking about the specular map now correct? That is what adjusts the shine on individual parts. On the Spec. map, black is pure flat and white full shine. When you make yours, avoid using pure black or white. You will never find real components that flat or shiny, ever.