Odd behavior when using Saitek Combat Pedals with Thrustmaster Warthog

[Sabre]

There are two issues I'm having, actually. First, my right tow-break seems to be inoperative (the left works okay, except for the second problem I'll describe). Either from in-game or from the control panel utility, depressing the right tow-break yields no response.

The second issue is more severe, and is preventing me from playing AH with any success.  I'm using my combat pedals in conjunction with a Thrustmaster HOTAS Warthog controller set (joystick plus a throttle).  When I hit the tow-breaks on my Saitek pedals several times in quick succession (which happens often when I'm in combat and jinking with rudder), all the lights on my Thrustmaster throttle go out and it appears to perform some sort of power-on reset.  This causes all kinds of havoc in-game, as the Thrustmaster throws out all kinds of commands. For example, it cause the autopilot to engage, temporarily over-riding whatever control inputs I'm inputting. It also throws out random "check-six" calls.  It also switches views randomly.  All this makes combat essentially impossible.   Given that the two problems seem to have started about the same time, I have to assume it's a problem with the Saitek pedals.  The Thrustmaster gear seems to work fine with the Saitek pedals disconnected, but without rudders, my ACM and gunnery is severely hampered.  Any thoughts from the community?

[ink]

is your warthog profile setup with any macros?

for any other games?

[Fulcrum]

The Warthog Throttle is very sensitive to power being supplied by the USB bus and sometimes just other devices sharing the same bus.    It could be that the pedals are pulling power from the bus or that the bus is overloaded. Try hooking the pedals to another USB port or, if you don't have one available, hook it into a powered USB hub (powered as in it has a power adapter you plug into the wall...these hubs supply the devices attached with power rather than relying on power from the PC USB bus). 

My own experience with the Warthog is that trying one or a combination of these techniques eleminated the issues I was experiencing.  They are rather finicky at times about USB devices.

[Rich46yo]

The Warthog Throttle is very sensitive to power being supplied by the USB bus and sometimes just other devices sharing the same bus.    It could be that the pedals are pulling power from the bus or that the bus is overloaded. Try hooking the pedals to another USB port or, if you don't have one available, hook it into a powered USB hub (powered as in it has a power adapter you plug into the wall...these hubs supply the devices attached with power rather than relying on power from the PC USB bus). 

My own experience with the Warthog is that trying one or a combination of these techniques eleminated the issues I was experiencing.  They are rather finicky at times about USB devices.

Yeah that or its a stuck keymap. Like do you have the Saitek pedals keymapped to something. Or a conflicting kepmap on the WartHog? Do you have to Saitek pedal mapped to something in another game? Some kind of conflict like that. Saitek pedals can do some weird stuff. Mine only work when attached to the USB input of my keyboard. I have three powered USB Hubs, that everything else works fine on, but they only work when connected to my keyboard. They wont even work when connected right to my 'puter.

[Sabre]

Interesting. I don't have any macros mapped to the TM gear; I just use the in-game mapping.  I tried hooking the pedals to another USB port but got the same issue no matter which port I connected to (my gaming rig has eight total USB 2.0 ports, plus a couple USB 3.0 ports), but I don't have a separate powered USB hub.  I suspect I'll need to get one (any idea how much they run, cost wise?), but I wonder if it would be better to hook the Warthog into it once I do, rather than the pedals, since it's the TM gear that seems to be so sensitive.  Appreciate the responses, and any others.  I've also contacted Saitek customer support, submitting a trouble report. I'll let you know what they say.

[Fulcrum]

Interesting. I don't have any macros mapped to the TM gear; I just use the in-game mapping.  I tried hooking the pedals to another USB port but got the same issue no matter which port I connected to (my gaming rig has eight total USB 2.0 ports, plus a couple USB 3.0 ports), but I don't have a separate powered USB hub.  I suspect I'll need to get one (any idea how much they run, cost wise?), but I wonder if it would be better to hook the Warthog into it once I do, rather than the pedals, since it's the TM gear that seems to be so sensitive.  Appreciate the responses, and any others.  I've also contacted Saitek customer support, submitting a trouble report. I'll let you know what they say.

If you've plugged the pedals into the 3.0 ports it probably isn't a bus power issue as that run should be running on a separate bus from the 2.0 (which I assume you have the Warthog stuff plugged into).  That being said it's still worth a shot if all else fails....I'd hold off buying one until you hear back from Saitek.  

As for how much, it varies depending on the number of ports but they are not super expensive.  Here's an example of one one over at NewEgg that has pretty good ratings:

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA2BP0Y81397

[morfiend]

 Sabre,

 the saitek brake issue is pretty common,mine went out awhile back and I've been to lazy to open the pedals up and try to fix it.  If I remember correctly it's usually the same thing,the connection to the brake pot.

  It's a pita to take them apart but an easy fix once you do!



   

[Fulcrum]

Thanks Morfiend.  I don't use the Saitek's myself so I wasn't aware of that.

Just FYI - I did recently buy a set of broken Saitek Combat Pedals on eBay which I'm in the process of refurbishing for my son.  The small USB controller board in the pedals is burned out, which didn't surprise me given the shoddy soldering (I thought I was bad with a soldering iron....yeesh!).  The pots are pretty cheap as well but easily replaced.  I'm replacing the controller with a Leo Bodnar board (BU0836A)  I no longer use and may well replace the Z axis pot with a hall sensor.  Just in case any of you run into a similar problem don't feel you need to throw out the pedals...its pretty easy to replace the circuit board.  Bodnar's stuff is top notch and relatively cheap: http://www.leobodnar.com/shop/

[Sabre]

Once again, thanks very much for the feedback...the community here is awesome! I'm thinking I tried plugging the Saitek into one of the USB 3.0 ports and it still caused issues, but maybe I'm mistaken.  Since I don't have anything that specifically requires 3.0 at this time, I may try plugging the Warthog into those, and the Saitek pedals into the regular 2.0.  Interesting (and a bit upsetting) to hear that Saitek uses such poor quality parts and assembly work.  I'll definitely be opening the pedals up and seeing if I can fix the tow-brake issue, once I hear back from Saitek on whether they can help me or not.

Fulcrum, do you have the specs for a Hall sensor to replace the pots on the Saitek? Again, thanks for the feedback.

Sabre

[Fulcrum]

Once again, thanks very much for the feedback...the community here is awesome! I'm thinking I tried plugging the Saitek into one of the USB 3.0 ports and it still caused issues, but maybe I'm mistaken.  Since I don't have anything that specifically requires 3.0 at this time, I may try plugging the Warthog into those, and the Saitek pedals into the regular 2.0.  Interesting (and a bit upsetting) to hear that Saitek uses such poor quality parts and assembly work.  I'll definitely be opening the pedals up and seeing if I can fix the tow-brake issue, once I hear back from Saitek on whether they can help me or not.

Fulcrum, do you have the specs for a Hall sensor to replace the pots on the Saitek? Again, thanks for the feedback.

Sabre

Based on what I've seen thus far none of the rotary hall-sensors I currently own will fit without some serious retrofitting.  At this point I can't even drop a quality potentiometer in there without retrofitting.  I own several high quality 100K ohm pots with 6.35mm (1/4") shafts, but it looks like the shaft of the existing pot is a smaller size so my replacements won't fit into the plastic gear piece used to twist the pot shaft as you move the pedals. 

On a side note:  It's times like these I wish I owned a 3D printer.  I'd just design a replacement gear to fit over the the new pot/hall sensor.  I'm going to have to buy/build one of those soon....just have to figure out how to convince the wife that I can't live without one.   

I will let you know if I come up with solution.

[hyzer]

I will let you know if I come up with solution.

Please hurry, I've been wanting one for a while now.   

[Fulcrum]

The biggest issue I see is not the shaft fitting into the gear piece to be honest...if I wanted to I could just drill it out and superglue the damn thing on there.  The issue is the space in the pedals body and being able to fit another pot or hall sensor in there.  The pots currently used by Saitek are very small in size (and, as I previously mentioned, pretty cheap)....there just isn't much room in the plastic base of the pedals to fit anyting larger in there. 

This, BTW, is why I refuse to buy Saitek stuff...well, new at least. 

[Sabre]

Based on what I've seen thus far none of the rotary hall-sensors I currently own will fit without some serious retrofitting.  At this point I can't even drop a quality potentiometer in there without retrofitting.  I own several high quality 100K ohm pots with 6.35mm (1/4") shafts, but it looks like the shaft of the existing pot is a smaller size so my replacements won't fit into the plastic gear piece used to twist the pot shaft as you move the pedals. 

On a side note:  It's times like these I wish I owned a 3D printer.  I'd just design a replacement gear to fit over the the new pot/hall sensor.  I'm going to have to buy/build one of those soon....just have to figure out how to convince the wife that I can't live without one.   

I will let you know if I come up with solution.

There are some print places that are starting to get three-D printers; you bring in the 3D file and they produce the part for you.  There are also on-line sources that will allow you to upload a 3D file and will produce and ship the part they print.  There's even one company that will 3D print metal parts (I think the parts are made from a softer metal, like pewter).

[Fulcrum]

There are some print places that are starting to get three-D printers; you bring in the 3D file and they produce the part for you.  There are also on-line sources that will allow you to upload a 3D file and will produce and ship the part they print.  There's even one company that will 3D print metal parts (I think the parts are made from a softer metal, like pewter).

Shhhhhhhhhh!   Are you trying to blow my chance to get authorization from the family CFO (aka the Wife) to buy a 3D printer!!

 

[Ack-Ack]

At least with the pedals, the problem seems to me that a potentiometer has bought the farm and needs to be replaced.  The issue could have also caused the issue of commands bleeding through to the Warthog controllers, I've seen it happen before with CH gear and other controllers.

ack-ack