Joystick Settings

[Skuzzy]

I am in the middle of making a video about this topic as we speak.

It can be quite simple or quite complex, depending on how you use your stick and that is the key.

In a nutshell, the 10 sliders allow you to tailor your input curves.  It is not damping.  Damping literally slows the input.  These sliders require a percentage of input before making a difference.  If they are all at the top, it means the stick inputs are linear (first slider = 0-65.535, second slider = 65.536-131.07....).

If you are looking to smooth or lighten the initial inputs, then start the first slider near the bottom, and draw a straight line from there to the last slider being at the top.  This will give you a true exponential input curve.  Form there, adjust to fit your needs.

One last thing to note.  When you go full deflection, with your stick, these curves will not matter.

[lerxst]

I have no doubt its me more than anything, i probably just need to get with trainers for awhile and unlearn bad habits ive taught myself.this isnt the kind of game where you just hold a controller and shoot everything around you,i know for some guys it is!!Ill head to the TA for proper tutoring:salute

[lerxst]

That sounds awsome  Skuzzy, its been one of those things where for  the last year or so,no matter who ive talked with its a preference unique to the person and how they fly,so ive found from time to time i change my scaling with the hope it will improve how i dogfight,more times than not it ends in getting shot down.So ive finally realized its a lack of knowledge of flying more than anything,with that being said, im totally addicted to this game like some sort of junkie looking forward to the updates and learning all about the scaling also thank you!!

[BnZs]

Well, I can say that I have yet to find a stick scaling that seems to always allow me gun platform stability in a range of situations. A bandit a turn of any sort, theoretically harder, remains about the easiest target. Meanwhile a stalled out bandit below me or a bandit showing his six, theoretically easy prey, remains among the hardest on many occasions.

[FLS]

Well, I can say that I have yet to find a stick scaling that seems to always allow me gun platform stability in a range of situations. A bandit a turn of any sort, theoretically harder, remains about the easiest target. Meanwhile a stalled out bandit below me or a bandit showing his six, theoretically easy prey, remains among the hardest on many occasions.

In a turn you have the stick back. If you trim nose down you'll have the stick back for all your shots. This can be helpful if you have deadband or center play.

[McShark]

I am in the middle of making a video about this topic as we speak.

It can be quite simple or quite complex, depending on how you use your stick and that is the key.

In a nutshell, the 10 sliders allow you to tailor your input curves.  It is not damping.  Damping literally slows the input.  These sliders require a percentage of input before making a difference.  If they are all at the top, it means the stick inputs are linear (first slider = 0-65.535, second slider = 65.536-131.07....).

If you are looking to smooth or lighten the initial inputs, then start the first slider near the bottom, and draw a straight line from there to the last slider being at the top.  This will give you a true exponential input curve.  Form there, adjust to fit your needs.

One last thing to note.  When you go full deflection, with your stick, these curves will not matter.

So if I lower my input at the 90 lever it will still give me full deflection? Am I missing something? 

[Skuzzy]

So if I lower my input at the 90 lever it will still give me full deflection? Am I missing something? 

If you slam your stick to full deflection, there is no point in doing any scaling as the velocity ramp of the input will be defined by the maximum stick velocity allowed for that plane.

If you stop 1 tick before full deflection, then the input curves can have an impact.

[BnZs]

So if I lower my input at the 90 lever it will still give me full deflection? Am I missing something? 

Keep in mind that most of the time in fighters full back on the stick will instantly result in an accelerated stall.

[McShark]

Keep in mind that most of the time in fighters full back on the stick will instantly result in an accelerated stall.

I still try to understand Skuzzy's reply.

I can full deflect at the right speed in every plane without stall, no issue there. Wings might snap but that's another story.

Skuzzy, may I ask you to explain me the components of stick input and how they are interpreted in game?

Also, as I run A T|M Warthog, is it adviseable to run any stick manufacturers programming software or is it just another layer to delay / slow things down?

[RotBaron]

A long time ago Changeup directed me to a screenshot of his settings for the reason of no longer getting "move controls so rapidly."  My settings for deadband and damping are almost the exact other end of the spectrum from the picture of AckAck's. I've been feeling/seeing for a while now that when I want to make a move at the merge that the moment I initiate it, the bandit has already started his turn as if we thought it at the same time, but his stick responded sooner. The more this has happened the more I've noticed how long it is taking my stick to get the inputs, much longer than I ever thought...

I still use the Logitcech 3dpro. Is there a way I could reduce the amount of deadband & damping I put in there without going back to get the "controls so rapidly" ?

 

[FLS]

It may sound snarky but the solution is don't move  your controls so quickly. Then you can use zero or minimal damping and get better control response.

[Randy1]

I still use the Logitcech 3dpro. Is there a way I could reduce the amount of deadband & damping I put in there without going back to get the "controls so rapidly" ?

 

A couple of things that helped me past the problem to the dreaded moving controls too fast error.  First, get off by yourself and try to get the error intentionally.  When you can do it every time, you will have a good idea of what it takes to get the lock controls.

Second, save your setting just in case.  Now reset your scaling to default.  Now go to the offline and call up the target at say 400.  Zoom to max.  Try to hold on the center.  Start adjusting the scaling sliders until you can hold without much bounce.

[FLS]

If you have trouble holding center on the target I would look at trim before changing scaling. Try to avoid a center dead spot when shooting by trimming nose down a little.

[Randy1]

If you have trouble holding center on the target I would look at trim before changing scaling. Try to avoid a center dead spot when shooting by trimming nose down a little.

FLS i use the zoom method of scaling as a way to amplify the problem allowing fine tuning of the scaling.  Not sure the OP mentioned a holding center but keeps getting hit my the "moving controls too fast" lockup.  Useful scaling will help in both shooting and the lockup.

[FLS]

The only thing scaling changes is the ease of making small inputs near the joystick's center position. The trade off is any time you aren't at your trim speed you are making a bigger input then you expect. If you are trimmed you are moving the stick through any deadband in the center position.

Damping is the adjustment to stop locking up the stick but then you degrade the stick response with delay. The solution for the OP is learning to be easy on the stick and rudder.

Before I extended my stick I used default scaling on the pitch axis. I played with fine tuning and decided that any tweaking of the default setting was a psychological benefit at best. Other players will disagree. Scaling is a personal preference and if you prefer a custom setting that's fine. I recommend trying scaling on the pitch axis and rudder axis and comparing it to no scaling but I personally don't see a real advantage to tweaking the default setting.