Replaced CH Throttle but now have mode problems

[texasfighter]

I have CH products: Fighterstick, Pro Throttle, Pro Pedals. I got all of them about a year and a half ago. About 6 months after getting them, a problem developed with the Throttle in that it would suddenly lose power if I pushed it all the way forward. Apparently the pot for full throttle was damaged at some point, possibly from the keyboard tray being shut causing the throttle to slam into the computer desk. I lived with the problem for about a year (being very careful to not push throttle all the way forward). I finally replaced it about 5 weeks ago. Since I replaced it, I have a new problem. It appears mode 2 (for gvs) doesn't work correctly unless it is reset while in the game. I reset it by pulling out the usb plug for the Fighterstick and then plugging it back in.

What it does before I reset it is one of two things: usually it causes the gv to immediately initiate a hard right turn. If I don't counter it quickly, the gv crashes into the vehicle hanger wall. I slow or stop the gv, pull out the joystick usb connection and then put in right back in again. Or the other thing it does is cause the horizontal axis to not function at all. The way that works is that I can drive straight ok, but as soon as I need to slew the gun around to any target, I discover that there is no slew function working at all. Very annoying when in combat!

The only thing I can think to do is to reinstall the CH software. Before I do that, I wanted to see if there were any other ideas. Ideas? Thoughts? Comments?

Thanks!
Tex78

[nrshida]

I would recommend using a high quality externally-powered USB hub. I bought a Belkin several years ago and don't even have to recalibrate. Ever.

[morfiend]

 Tex,

 Did you have to remap the new throttle?  If so you may need to copy mode 1 in mode 2.  It should be easy enough to tell,goto controllers,map controls and select your throttle. If you see copy mode 1 as selectable you may need to do that so the game "sees" the throttle in mode 2.

YMMV.

   

[Mister Fork]

When I had a gameport CH throttle 10 years ago, I had the same issue - seems that the slider that is linear potentiometer was missing a few screws and as the slider went forward, would lift off towards the end.

If you shake your throttle, do you hear any loose parts?  I screw had come out of mine and fastening it back in fixed the issue.

More info here [CH Forums] if it's an internal issue - which sounds more like your problem than mine.

[Brooke]

Do you use sleep or hybrid sleep on your computer?

[texasfighter]

Brooke, I find it really hard to sleep on my computer. The top is hard and it's really not very big at all. 

Now in regards to my power plan, I do have a balanced power plan set in Windows 7:
Balanced. Offers full performance when you need it and saves power during periods of inactivity. This is the best power plan for most people. Perhaps this is what you were referring to?

Morph: I suspect you were exactly right. There was nothing selected at all for the Throttle in Mode 2. I did what you suggested and copied in Mode 1. Hopefully that will help. I will test later.
Thanks a bunch guys!
Tex78

[Brooke]

OK . . . let me be more precise.

Before you start AH and have your problem do you:
1.  Boot your computer only (and not have to wake it up from a sleep state).
or
2.  Wake your computer up from a sleep state (i.e., you booted it up hours ago, it went to sleep, then you come back to it, wake it up, and launch AH)?

Which are you doing before you have your problem, 1 or 2?

If you are doing #2, I know what your problem is.

[texasfighter]

Morph's suggestion fixed the problem with mode 2. Gvs work fine now.

Brooke: I am intrigued with your suggestion. I have had other problems with equipment, specifically TrackIR which I am temporarily not using. Are you saying that the "sleep mode" messes with AH? I do often go into AH after the computer has been in "sleep mode." If that is a problem for AH, I'll turn it off.

Thanks again guys! Great to have a quick fix.
Tex78

[Brooke]

Brooke: I am intrigued with your suggestion. I have had other problems with equipment, specifically TrackIR which I am temporarily not using. Are you saying that the "sleep mode" messes with AH? I do often go into AH after the computer has been in "sleep mode." If that is a problem for AH, I'll turn it off.

When Windows goes to sleep then wakes up, some USB devices no longer work and only begin to work again once their USB bus is reset.  One way of doing this is to unplug and replug the USB device.

Other ways to do it without having to unplug and replug are described here:

http://electraforge.com/brooke/misc/useful_info/wakeUpJoystick.html

[texasfighter]

Interesting Brooke. For now, I just created a custom power plan so that my computer never goes to sleep. I shut the computer down at night so I don't think the power usage will ruin the world for now. When I get an external USB hub I'll go back to using a balanced power plan.

Thanks again!
Tex78

[danny76]

I would recommend using a high quality externally-powered USB hub. I bought a Belkin several years ago and don't even have to recalibrate. Ever.

I had the opposite experience, I have removed the stick and throttle from the belking powered usb port and all the spiking issues I had have gone

[Brooke]

I had the opposite experience, I have removed the stick and throttle from the belking powered usb port and all the spiking issues I had have gone

I had that happen to me once.  It turned out, though, that my powered hub was not receiving power.  The power connector to it was dodgy.  Once I made sure it was getting power, everything worked well again plugged into the hub.  Thereafter, I got hubs only that had a power light, so that I could tell if the hub was indeed getting its external power.

[nrshida]

I had the opposite experience, I have removed the stick and throttle from the belking powered usb port and all the spiking issues I had have gone

Yeah that's weird. Constant loss of calibration and weird behaviour is often caused by insufficient power on the USB bus. Some of these controllers draw a reasonable amount of power.