After making the first beginner build thread I decided to document my next build as a little bit more advanced build instructions and address the few shortcomings of the first post at the same time.
Let's start again by checking the manifest. Only start to build if everything is available.
The Seasonic power supply came packed elegantly in a suede pouch:
This time my selection of installation liquid was different. You can also use non-alcoholic versions if you wish. It's not critical for the build
Start by removing both side panels from the case to expose the working area. Unscrew the screws from the back of the case and slide/open both of the side plates:
Note the neat cable management of the Fractal design case:
It's easier to plug in the cables to your modular PSU before you install it. So do it now.
Install the PSU to the top or bottom of the case (depending on which case you use). Connect the power lead and plug the lead to a
grounded outlet. Make sure your PSU is switched to the OFF position. Pull the power supply cables through the installation holes in the computer case so that they're on the back side and out of the way while doing rest of the installation.
Next find a suitable metal part from the case and secure the gator clip of your anti-static wristband to it. Wrap the band around your wrist and keep it there for the duration of the build.
Next, install the faceplate that was supplied with your motherboard, to the back of your computer case:
Locate markings on the computer case which indicate motherboard type and screw in riser screws supplied with your computer case. If you're unsure just try the motherboard on and make sure each screw hole in the motherboard has a riser screw under it. Do not install the motherboard directly on the flat metal - each screw hole MUST have a riser behind it. The risers look like this:
Slide the motherboard connector side first so that the connectors pass the holes in the face plate and wiggle the board untill all the screw holes align with the risers below:
This time the CPU used is an overclockable i5 cpu that currently provides best bang for buck for a medium build:
Unbox the cpu and note the two alignment holes on the sides:
Note the notches on the cpu socket. Take special care
not to bend any of the pins on the socket.:
Install the cpu correctly aligned and close the cpu lid carefully:
Next locate the ram slots (usually they're right next to the CPU:
Unbox your ram sticks, hold them from the head spreader - not from the copper contactors. Check that your ram slot aligns correctly with the extrusion on the ram slot. Push firmly untill the ram is properly seated with a click. Push again to confirm. You need to use a bit of force with some ram sticks before they seat in.
Next unbox the cpu cooler. Prepare the contact surface with Aceton and paper. In my case the thermal paste supplier was kind enough to provide an isopropanol cleaning pad. I used that to clean both the cpu heat plate and the CPU cooler contact surface.
Secure the heatsink away to dry and install the back plate of the heatsink/fan. Note the correct alignment before install. This is where it pays off to invest a bit more to a computer box - the box has ample cutaways for both cable management and behind the motherboard so you can access the back of the motherboard for heatsink installation without having to remove the whole motherboard.
Once installed it should look like this:
Next attach the correctly marked face plates according to your heatsink manufacturers instructions. Secure them tight using a screw driver.:
Next apply your heat paste of choice:
The liquid metal I used is conductive so do not over apply! Just a drop is all that it takes:
Remove the fan from the heatsink or you won't be able to reach the mounting screws:
Align the fanless heatsink carefully on the installation faceplates and use a philips driver to secure the heatsink. Tighten carefully switching sides repeatedly so that both screws tighten evenly and the heatsink positions straight on the CPU.
Next install the fan back on the heatsink and connect the fan cable to the cpu_fan header on your motherboard.
Next locate the case power, reset and led pins on the lower right corner of your motherboard (typically):
Locate the correspondent leads provided by your computer case:
Consult your motherboards owners manual on correct positions for the leads. Note that the cables have positive and negative signs. Install the cables accordingly! Your power led will not work if you install the wires backwards. It may even get damaged.
Next pop out a drive cage from your computer case. Some cases have slide-in easy mounting methods, some (like mine) have a more manual way to mount the drives. In this case you have to locate a small bag of rubber bushings supplied with the computer case. Try the mounting tray on your hard drive to see how the holes align. Insert a rubber bushing between each screw hole.
Use the supplied special hard drive cage screws to install your hard drive. The screws are only partly threaded to avoid you over tightening them.
Once the drive is secured, slide the drive cage to the mounting slots on the case. Install the PCI-E power cable and the SATA cables to the drive. Connect the SATA cable to the correspondingly marked slot on the motherboard.
Next remove the dust plates from the back of the computer case as needed for your graphics card.
Most cards today require the removal of two covers:
Install the auxiliary power cable to the motherboard (pictured below). Also connect the large 24-pin power cord to the side of your motherboard. It's the largest connector on the motherboard (pictured above):
Unbox your graphics card and take it out of its ESD protection pouch. Examine the card and remove any protective covers from the contact surfaces either on the back of the card or on the bottom where the PCI-E connector is and proceed to slide the graphics card to the top PCI-E slot. Tighten the card in with the screw(s) you removed from the dust cover plate.
Unwrap any additional PCI-E or PCI cards you may want to install. I chose to install the Intel 910 800Gb PCI-E SSD.
Slide it into the first available PCI-E slot securely:
Since this is a bit more advanced build, let's take a couple of minutes to do some cable management. Use the zip ties and velcro patches kindly provided by Seasonic and Fractal design to tidy up the cables on the back of the box. Also note that this case comes with its own fan controller, connect one of the PCI-E power sockets to the female socket of the case. Connect the case fans to the fan header cables found in the same cable bundle (center image) where the female PCI-E socket was. Alternatively you can connect the fan cables directly to the marked motherboard fan headers on the board itself. I chose to plug my fans on the supplied leads to keep them hidden behind the case.
All ready and while not perfect, tidy enough for me!
IMO simplicity is beauty, I prefer a simple face instead of gamey stripes and shapes:
As before, next step was to insert the USB3 stick hosting the Windows 10 installation media and begin downloading games and other software to the computer. I always choose to download the latest drivers directly from the manufacturers websites instead of using the supplied driver discs.
That's it again! I hope you enjoyed it. And best wishes for your next own build.
