X-52 resolution/damping problems

[Hotstuff]

Don't know if other people are rockin the X-52, mine is a saitek bought in 2011 or whatever.

When the controller is working normally, the resolution especially near the middle is very grainy, and makes it difficult to take precise shots. I've tried various times in the controller curves in AH to tune it but I never seem to get it right. On some of the axes on the throttle the value likes to jump back and forth, which is annoying, more of a problem in other sims like IL2 or DCS when setting prop RPM and such, although it is annoying when setting up cruise in AH.

My biggest problem with my controller however, is that without warning the controls become delayed and sluggish, it seems like a weird damping problem. The offset also gets screwed up, so that if I go back to stick neutral sometimes I can be going into a nosedive or a stall before I can get into the control menu. I think it is a connector problem as the controller has these lame 5-pin connectors but I don't know what to do about it. My procedure is to unplug my joystick from the throttle at both connections and try to securely put them back in, which seems to resolve the issue but costs me precious seconds in a dogfight. I'm thinking they may get lose when setting up the controller on the desk.

It is so frustrating to be trying to line up an easy shot on someone but end up going into a PIO due to the controller not acting normally!

[Bizman]

If your axii jump in the controller settings calibrating is the first thing to do and if the jumping continues, applying dead band and damping should fix that to an extent. Calibrating in Windows first is recommendable although finding the settings can be clumsy: Open Control Panel (via Search) in Icon mode, open Devices and Printers, right click one of your gaming controllers and click Game Controller Settings. Choose your weapon from the list and click Properties, the rest should be self explanatory. If the bars wiggle without you moving them, calibrate. If they still wiggle, it's a hardware issue.

If the issue gets fixed by un- and replugging a connector, some sort of electronics cleaner spray should help. Choose one that will evaporate without oily residues.

[Hotstuff]

The weird thing is that it does not have a calibration button in the controller's settings page. My T-pedals have a calibration button, so I know how to find it if it were there.

[Bizman]

You're right, based on the manual I could find there's five tabs for various settings in the Properties of it but no calibration. Have you been able to find any recent drivers for it?

[Hotstuff]

You're right, based on the manual I could find there's five tabs for various settings in the Properties of it but no calibration. Have you been able to find any recent drivers for it?

Haven't looked that hard yet, one anecdote I saw was that it is a firmware driver that can only be replaced at the factory. Another fix I haven't tried looking at yet is to use the logitech stick setup software, which I got rid of a while ago because it wasn't helping anything and never could figure out the profiling stuff. Perhaps another fix I have thought about but have no idea if it exists, is to see if there is some sort of virtual joystick that offers more "calibration" and "damping" customization.

[Hotstuff]

One "fix" for the PS/2 connector becoming loose, which does appear to be a known problem with the same symptoms I described in my OP, is to secure the connector better using paperclips bent at a 90 degree angle and duct tape. I'm going to try that later.

What I did months ago was help tape the cable to the controller boxes to limit cable movement, but with how loose they fit I think this paperclip thing is the way to go. Only other way I can think is to superglue the damn thing in there, but I don't know if that will make me regret it later!

[Bizman]

Instead of paper clip magic, would it be possible to install a sturdier jack and a fitting plug to the cable? There's tons of case mountable multi-pin jacks and plugs similar to the VGA monitor connector, secured with screws and all that jazz. Available for boating (radio), computing, cars, electronics etc...

[Hotstuff]

Instead of paper clip magic, would it be possible to install a sturdier jack and a fitting plug to the cable? There's tons of case mountable multi-pin jacks and plugs similar to the VGA monitor connector, secured with screws and all that jazz. Available for boating (radio), computing, cars, electronics etc...

Perhaps, but that amount of electrical rewiring and such I'd much rather buy a new stick or invest in a better desk setup for simming.

[100Coogn]

Perhaps, but that amount of electrical rewiring and such I'd much rather buy a new stick or invest in a better desk setup for simming.

You could always try replacing the cable that goes from the throttle to the stick.
Here's one for $1.33. Saitek X-52 Cable

Coogan

[Hotstuff]

 

This maintenance order can now be closed. The pilot decided to do depot-level maintenance on the joystick by himself, and now the electronics do not work.

Oh well at least I got beer 

[guncrasher]

This maintenance order can now be closed. The pilot decided to do depot-level maintenance on the joystick by himself, and now the electronics do not work.

Oh well at least I got beer 

lol I was just about to mention that you can only calibrate the x52 from within windows, not the app.  but you mentioned exactly why I replaced my last x52.  I got the rhino and when the stick gave up after like 6 years, I got a saitek 3d pro, along with the rhino throttle.  cant use pedals due to missing tendons.


semp

[Hotstuff]

lol I was just about to mention that you can only calibrate the x52 from within windows, not the app.  but you mentioned exactly why I replaced my last x52.  I got the rhino and when the stick gave up after like 6 years, I got a saitek 3d pro, along with the rhino throttle.  cant use pedals due to missing tendons.


semp

As I mentioned earlier I cannot calibrate my x52 within the app, perhaps due to my version or whatever.

The reason why the joystick doesn't work at all now is that I got overzealous disassembling the stick to get rid of some play, which was really killing the action close to center. I think I sheared a critical connector in the process of reassembling and now it doesn't work.

Sure I could solder it back together, but after spending 4+ hours on this I just decided to try out the Thrustmaster T16000m. Gonna have to fly with mouse for a while though.

[Chilli]

http://youtu.be/-JGZSx7UaVU

Remove 4 screws from bottom of joystick, place 4 magnets as shown and replace 4 screws.  THAT SIMPLE!!

The above link, was discovered and relayed to me by Bentnail. WOW! What a difference and way too easy and non invasive.

All I can say is that once I found suitable magnets:

According to these comments from others that tried it, you might have luck finding magnets like they did:

"I found these locally in the US at Home Depot, item number 07046HD"

"3x12mm magnets although they can be too "fat" for original magnets replacement...", it took me about 5 minutes to do and back to flying.

I am just very cautious, so it goes a lot quicker than that. Just watch the video and it is as easy as it looks. It does void your warranty for the stick, beware.



Spring Tension

Disclaimer: (You might need to do both). I also did the spring mod using portion of an old CD case that holds the CD. I cut a slot in it so it would slide into place easily. Pull the spring down and insert. Release the spring and then you have no stick flop (takes all the sloppiness out of the joystick movement). Similar to this, except I used an old game CD case and trimmed it (already had easily snipped center portion.)

http://youtu.be/TYBvO2i0h24