P-38L vs. bf109

[Tac]

Originally posted by humble
Tac,

Couldnt download the clip...would love to see it. colud you check the link or even email it to me ... macmac123@aol.com.

Thanx

Read buddy, you have to copy the link and paste it on your address bar in the browser. Geocities does not allow linking to anything but html pages, but if you type the link in your address bar and press GO, it will download it.

F4UDOA: I bet he was firing AND with full wep all the time. heehee. id love to see your film

Zaphod: I have a SUNCOM dual throttle. I highly reccomend it. HOWEVER you should bear in mind that

A) SUNCOM is out of bussiness
B) Its an analog stick. It WILL spike like a slut's orgasmogram readout eventually

I'd go for a USB myself if I knew of one that didnt go over 100 bucks. Them toys expensive dammit. If anyone could tell us of a dual throttle USB stick, please give URL!!!

[Fester']

Tac, the move you talk about should be able to be accomplished with a single throttle and individual engine kill/start switches right?  Or do you have to cycle the throttle to bring the recently restarted engine up to full power?

Just curious.

TY

[Tac]

Sure you can do it with single engine throttle. You'll have to have mighty fast fingers to hit shift-1 or 2 and then move the throttle lever all the while keeping your other hand on the stick...

but chances are its too hard to do it.

You may try mapping 1 of your engine's throttle to a stick/throttle stick key so you can do it. Its tricky enough to time it right with a dual throttle, i dunno if a single throttle can pull it off. Let me know if you can!

[Fester']

I think I missread your initial post,  but I in my missread I think I might be able to do it with a single throttle, the flip reverse.

Can you start and stop engines independantly?  I think I remember reading that you can, tho I dont know the keystroke to kill or start engine 1 or 2 separately.  I know kill both engines is E.  Maybe shift-1-e to kill engine 1.  Something like that.

Anyway,  At the top of the manuever, to bring power off 1 and accentuate the yaw control to the left, just kill engine 1.  Youd probably have to restart it again right away given the ramp up time, but I think it would have the desired effect of removing power from that engine.

A keystroke like that could be mapped to a button or hat on the stick to make the procedure easier while using a single throttle.

Think that might work?

[akak]

Originally posted by Tac


 

A) SUNCOM is out of bussiness
B) Its an analog stick. It WILL spike like a slut's orgasmogram readout eventually

I'd go for a USB myself if I knew of one that didnt go over 100 bucks. Them toys expensive dammit. If anyone could tell us of a dual throttle USB stick, please give URL!!!

Check out the Rockfire USB game port adaptor.  It will allow you to use your SunCom through the USB port instead of the legacy analog game port you have now.  Will eliminate any spikes caused by the analog signals from the game port and still allow you to program your SunCom throttle.  Works with my Suncom throttle as well as my CH Pro Throttle.  Now I just need the USB Pro Pedals so I can use the dual throttle in AH



ack-ack

[Tac]

I do have my suncom throttle using a USB adapter, it does not eliminate the spikes, it just allows it to plug to USB port. You did say spikes from gameport, but the stick itself also spikes. Need a digital only stick for this hehehe.

OriginalFester :

Shift-1 selects engine 1. Any throttle related command (manifold, turn on/off) you do will only affect engine 1

shift-2 selects engine 2.

shift-e selects BOTH engines.

as to mapping it to stick... I really dont know man.

[Starbird]

I think if you turn one engine off, then hit shift-e, it will turn the engine back on.

You have to hit control-e (I think) to control just the engines that are still running (not a problem in 2 engine planes, is handy with 3 or more).

[UnDeth]

Thanks much TAC.

Your film was quite helpful, esp the WHEEEE parts, I found that quite helpful

I don't think I was cutting the other engine early enough and I was over rotating.  I still don't look as good as you doing them but I can execute the maneuver fairly well now.

I wish I had a nice dual throttle...

Thanks again for the tips.

UnDeth

[akak]

Originally posted by Tac
You did say spikes from gameport, but the stick itself also spikes. Need a digital only stick for this hehehe.

Then you have failing potentiometers in your throttle.  One thing I learned from my time at CH was if the game port wasn't causing the spikes than 99% of the time it's the potentiometers in the stick.  Try cleaning the contacts on the pot with contact cleaner and see if the spikes go away, if not then try replacing them.  If I remember correctly, the SunCom throttle uses the same 100k pots as the CH sticks, so finding replacement potentiometers shouldn't be hard.


Ack-Ack

[Kaz]

akak now u have my mind working overtime:p  using a cheap as u can get stick (it's my bro's stick). works well for its intended purpose, flight simulator 2k, fly! etc. but sux majorly in AH and the spiking is getting worse.
so i'm thinking maybe i can replace the cheap as heck pots with some real industrial strength ACME pots
don't let me down now say it can be done!!:)

[akak]

Originally posted by Kaz
akak now u have my mind working overtime:p  using a cheap as u can get stick (it's my bro's stick). works well for its intended purpose, flight simulator 2k, fly! etc. but sux majorly in AH and the spiking is getting worse.
so i'm thinking maybe i can replace the cheap as heck pots with some real industrial strength ACME pots
don't let me down now say it can be done!!:)

Usually if you contact the joystick's manufacturer and tell them you have a failing potentiometer, they will send you some out either for free or for a small charge.  If they won't ask them for the potentiometer specs so you can get one from a company like State Electronics.

Ack-Ack