Author Topic: Revvin, any advice on the Cougar Pots? (Read 451 times)

muckmaw · « **on:** December 30, 2002, 11:34:41 AM »

It looks like after 9 months of use, the pots in my cougar stick are shot. (I have to calibrate every sortie just to keep the stick from jumping all over the place).

So I talked to TM and they said, either solder it yourself (Yikes) or send it to us, and we'll repair/replace it.

Any other ideas? I hat eot be out of action for 2 weeks.

Is it really a squeak to solder new pots in? (I don't even own a soldering iron).

Reschke · « **Reply #1 on:** December 30, 2002, 11:50:24 AM »

It's not a big thing Muck. I used to have to do it with my F-16 FLCS and TQS every once in a while because the wires would break off after many long months of use and abuse. You might just want to look at it and see if they need cleaning instead of resoldering the wires to the pots. Most people that have had pots trouble with the Cougar have cleared it up with a good cleaning.

Plus a decent soldering kit only costs you about $10-$20. Just make sure you have some flux when you start going to soldering the wires back to the pots. If not then the wires may not reconnect right.

muckmaw · « **Reply #2 on:** December 30, 2002, 12:03:36 PM »

umm.....Flux?

Revvin · « **Reply #3 on:** December 30, 2002, 12:46:22 PM »

Muckmaw> I've only taken the base off my throttle to play with the detents and that pot slips out and it not hardwired onto the circuit board so I'm guessing the ones on the stick at the same and that they plug into the PCB in the bottom of the stick. E-mail TM and tell themand ask they send you the pot and wiring loom so that you only need to plug it in, tell them you have no experience electronically. Sorry to hear you having problems, hope you can sort it out quickly.

muckmaw · « **Reply #4 on:** December 30, 2002, 01:08:04 PM »

I'll give it a shot, Rev. Thanks.

If you don't see me up for a few weeks, you'll know why!

JimBear · « **Reply #5 on:** December 30, 2002, 02:21:34 PM »

Muckmaw,

Same thing happened to me and I emailed about it. Asked for replacements and harness. Two weeks (last Friday) later I recieved a big envelope, yea!!.
Inside were 2 pots only grrrrr.
The only thing that worries me about soldering the wires to the new one, is that if i understand correctly, heat (excesive, any?) can damage the pot itself. And then there ya are back at square 1.

As soon as CubPilot responds to my email I am going to order his HE sensors. Sooooo I may just wait

Reschke · « **Reply #6 on:** December 30, 2002, 03:01:33 PM »

MuckMaw,

The flux is what ends up holding the two pieces together to make one. Its easy to work with and anyone can do it. As JimBear pointed out though you don't need to get it to close to the pots when you are doing it. But on the other hand the connectors on the pots generally have plenty of distance between the actual pot and the wire you are soldering.

This is where I have bought some from in the past. H&N Electronics

You can get some at Radio Shack or at Lowe's, Wal-Mart and Home Depot if you have one close by and the guys at Radio Shack could probably be a little more helpful in case you need it.

Revvin · « **Reply #7 on:** December 30, 2002, 03:39:36 PM »

Yes you're well advised to try to avoid excessive heat it will cause damage not only to the pot but potentially the housing too. The links are quite small on the pots and even with electronic experience I would not relish soldering myself and I don't understand why TM are so reluctantto send out the pot + harness I would have thought this is by far the easiest way to deal with this and avoid any follow up cases with burnt wires and pots from inexperienced solderers. Did you buy it reasonably locally? I took one unit back to the shop and they dealt with the return and gave me a new one (thanks RC Simulations )

SOB · « **Reply #8 on:** December 30, 2002, 06:12:28 PM »

The easiest way that I have found for soldering such items, is to heat the tabs on the pot and apply a bit of solder to them first. Then, heat the wires from the harness one one side, while touching the solder to the other side (ie...sandwiching the wire between the iron and the solder - not having the iron on one end and the solder on the far end

), then the solder will start to flow when the wire heats up and will flow through to the iron. Then, put the now tinned wire lead against the pot terminal, push down on it lightly with the soldering iron tip and when it melts into the solder on the pot connector, hold the wire in place while pulling the soldering iron away - this should help to pull solder around the wire lead.

Hope that makes sense and most of all - hope it helps!

SOB

funkedup · « **Reply #9 on:** December 30, 2002, 07:25:31 PM »

PS Nerdy Note:
Flux doesn't actually hold anything together. It is just a wetting agent which helps overcome the surface tension of the molten solder. It helps the solder flow and bond to the metal.

You can get "flux core" solder which has flux in the middle of it. It's very good for general usage.

SOB's advice about tinning the wire lead is very good.

fuzeman · « **Reply #10 on:** December 30, 2002, 07:30:07 PM »

Its the solder that makes the connection, the flux cleanes the metal so the solder 'sticks' to it. Most flux has acid in it so I'd try to get electrical type solder.
OK, I'm two cents short now,
fuzeman

Wlfgng · « **Reply #11 on:** December 31, 2002, 11:09:20 AM »

definately DON'T get acid-based solder.. it'll tear your electronics to hell.

muckmaw · « **Reply #12 on:** December 31, 2002, 01:05:11 PM »

Jesus H. Christ, what the hell are your guys talking about?

Keep this up and I'm going to start quoting from my old series 7 book!

Seriously, thanks for all the advice, but it turned out to be a simple fix. I'm just going to put up a thread about it to alert Cougar users.

Thanks again, guys.