Author Topic: repairing an x45  (Read 435 times)

Offline Ragss

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repairing an x45
« on: September 27, 2003, 12:34:02 PM »
Ok so I live in canada, and the only way for me to get one of these is to have it special ordered for me.  The problem with this is i dont think i can get any sort of warantee or return before 30days thing.  And this is a big problem seeing as how the hats stop working after a few months.   So my question is to all of you, is it home repairable?  My dad has a degree in electrical engineering and repairs dozens of tv's ect. every year, so if it is fixable, he can do it.  

        I also have no problem with screwing around with the springs and lubricating the stick if i get one thats too tight (if any of you play paintball, i have an Autococker (and yes that applies for those of you who dont play)).


Otherwise the only hotas i know of that doesnt fall apart is the top gun afterburner 2.

Offline SC-Mutt

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repairing an x45
« Reply #1 on: September 28, 2003, 03:49:56 PM »
As a matter of fact, I DO know how to repair them :D

Assuming you know how, or can figure out, careful dissasembly, Here's the condensed version.  (Applies to ALL models of Saitek, and MOST other brand JS)...

TOOLS:[/u]
Asst'd. #1 and #2 phillips screwdrivers (stubby to 3, or 4" length).   [power driver is ok, but use LOW torque, and keep that magnetic bit clear of the electronics!! -- this ain't for rookies!--]

Small 15-20 watt soldering iron,  damp sponge, tip tinner & cleaner, soldering flux <-(better than heat sinc in tight places), rag,  Steady hand, heat control, de-solder tool or wick.

Solder = .022 Silver Bearing (2%) solder

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PARTS:[/u]
Some good glue; Look for something called: "Plastic Weld".
Or a good epoxy.

A roll of 1/2" wide 'string tape' - (used for shipping)

4 each replacement buttons...  
>> These are common rubber covered, momentary switches. just like the ones used in CD/Tape/VCR players for "Stop", "Play", "Rewind", etc. - I allways strip these items for parts like led's, caps, resistors, bearings, (Buttons), and certain weldable plastics before discarding! - <<

If you use "scavenged" buttons, (Which I recommend, since I live on an island), Use care not to overheat them when de-soldering, and allow them to cool for a minute once removed.

Then, take each one and hold it close to your ear, and give it a few good presses between your thumb and forefinger.  It should 'Feel' lively, and give off a crisp little 'snapping' sound, even when pressed off center.  (Believe me, you'll know a weak one when you get it)

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The common problem with Saitek hats, is that as the four buttons begin to wear, you lose the 'Corner' views. This is because corner views are activated when the hat presses TWO buttons at once, applying pressure each on the edge of both, instead of the center.

To compensate, we make things worse by pressing HARDER, and because this often helps, repair is put off.

But damage increases.  Because the extra force causes the plastic 'tower' holding the four main buttons in an upright position to crack, thus no longer offering the button any support against the onslaught of your thumb. ;p
-----------------------------------------------------------------

So- Disassemble stick,  De-solder and remove faulty buttons.
Dry fit the new ones before soldering, then lightly tin the legs, and install each using a tiny bit of solder paste to help control heat, while expediting the weld.  Take your time, allowing each leg to cool a bit before moving on.

Then fit the tower, pressing it's grooves onto each button edge for support, then use the glue to repair the support tower, making sure to keep any glue from getting into the switch support grooves.

Then unroll about 2" of the string tape, and rip it in half length wise. (giving you two 1/4" pieces).
Apply a thin film of glue to the outside surface of the tower, and allow it to become 'tacky'... Then wrap one of the tape strips firmly around it.

Allow it to set up a bit, then trim any excess.  Leave it setup overnight and dry.. reassemble..  

AND PLAY!!

Hope this helps
S!

Offline Ragss

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repairing an x45
« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2003, 11:43:52 PM »
ahhh thanx alot dude, i picked up a thrustmaster topgun afterburner 2 before you posted, but its already crapping out.  So maybe its time to special order my x45.

Offline moot

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repairing an x45
« Reply #3 on: October 02, 2003, 06:38:24 AM »
It's very simple, you have

or

or just

or very simply
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Offline Creamo

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repairing an x45
« Reply #4 on: October 02, 2003, 09:59:17 AM »
Rags, I have flown Saitek for many years, and the simple fact is, they are disposable.  They are just terrific while they hold up, but they just don't.  Well, everything does on the X45 but the main hat switch you use for your views. (Depending on your usage, 6 months is a good run.) And when it goes, it's pretty hard to live with. I just buy new ones.

Search the Harware BBS for I think Eaglers take on the $ math. It works out. What you seem to need is a US buyer, or can't you just get them off Ebay? I get huge discounts with FED EX so I have sent things out, but I admit I don't understand why it's hard to get them outside of the US.

Offline Curval

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repairing an x45
« Reply #5 on: October 02, 2003, 10:21:33 AM »
I've had mine for over a year...with only the right side view hat causing me a problem.

I thought I had huge problems at one point with the stick groaning and "catching" where the slider meets the stick...but a wee drop of greaseless lubricant right at the base of the spring fixed it.  I was about to trash it.

I've never taken mine apart, or had to..
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Offline AcId

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repairing an x45
« Reply #6 on: October 02, 2003, 04:20:54 PM »
I've had mine since they we're released and my main view hat is starting to act up on the Right/Forward view. It still works but it's degraded. I'd like to replace it but haven't taken it apart yet. Do we know of a "RadioShack" part No. or anyone have a link to a reasonable replacement part?

Offline SC-Mutt

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repairing an x45
« Reply #7 on: October 02, 2003, 07:27:58 PM »
Acid
See my reply above.  Don't let the length of the "How to" explanation scare you off.  It's written for those of us who live in remote areas and don't have ready access to 'Circut City' or 'Radio Shack'.

The replacement button/switches for the HATs, and Buttons are the same.  And good replacements can be found behind the push button controls of any VCR, CASSETTE DECK, CD PLAYER, old CD-ROM,  PRINTER, or SCANNER.  

Even an old MOUSE will have 'em.  Altho I don't reccomend using a mouse button, (do to usage), It is prolly the easiest place to see exactly WHAT they look like.  
(and you can show momma what you're dismantling the VCR for. LOL!)

They're small, aprox. 1/4" square, 2 or 4 post, w/round, rubber covered, momentary contact switches.

There's no code numbers, or other brain teasers to deal with, and you'll be saving the environment by not being so quick to toss the stick.

Besides, Didn't Mom tell ya that it was a "Sin to throw away good sticks when there's gamers that would die for your discards in some 3rd world countries!" ?  :D

S!

Offline AcId

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repairing an x45
« Reply #8 on: October 03, 2003, 08:08:54 AM »
I have no intention of throwing it away. I never throw anything away unless I've attempted to "fix" it first. :D

As for the switches I know what your talking about. There's an elvis-buttload of scrap in our lab that I could rape switches from. I was just wondering if there was a specific part I should use. Since they sound like generic buttons I shouldn't have a problem locating any.

Thanks Mutt

Offline Eagler

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repairing an x45
« Reply #9 on: October 03, 2003, 09:15:35 AM »
on one of mine, the right or left/front view (can't remember which) got real flaky

I switched it over to the oval hat on the front of the throttle and made the left/right on it the left/front & right/front views. Up is straight up view(used in conjustion with views on jstick for 45deg up view of views) and down is brakes (oval setup as 4way hat)

have left it that way since as it seems more precise than tryin to go the 45deg view with the 8way hat on the jstick
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Offline qts

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repairing an x45
« Reply #10 on: October 03, 2003, 02:38:30 PM »
My X-36 still works just fine.

Offline SC-Mutt

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repairing an x45
« Reply #11 on: October 05, 2003, 05:33:53 PM »
No prob!
Glad I could help;

S!