Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Custom Skins => Topic started by: Vraciu on January 12, 2014, 12:48:55 PM
-
I want to do this skin (or have one of you experts do it because I have a feeling I won't be very good at this) but wonder if it will be accepted. As I understand, the only P-51D in the game has the dorsal fillet where this one does not. Will HTC allow substitution?
A pretty blonde friend of mine has the same name and I think she would appreciate it. Plus it is a cool paint job.
(http://img.wp.scn.ru/camms/ar/165/pics/3_249.jpg)
This guy wound up with two confirmed and three probables (or vice versa) as I recall. I don't suppose every scheme has to be of an ace to be worthy.
I have a painting of it. Not sure if that version has an all yellow tail instead of a band. Will look when I get a chance to pull it out of the sleeve.
-
Here's picture of the bird. According to the website Lt McCampbell had the tail painted all yellow towards the end of the war. That probablt happened with almost all of the 52nd FG Ponys.
(http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/4803/523tk.jpg)
Website addy..
http://www.worldwar2.ro/forum/index.php?showtopic=1625&st=30 (http://www.worldwar2.ro/forum/index.php?showtopic=1625&st=30)
-
No need to worry about the lack of fin fillet. The default skin is from a D-5 as well.
-
Here's picture of the bird. According to the website Lt McCampbell had the tail painted all yellow towards the end of the war. That probablt happened with almost all of the 52nd FG Ponys.
(http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/4803/523tk.jpg)
Website addy..
http://www.worldwar2.ro/forum/index.php?showtopic=1625&st=30 (http://www.worldwar2.ro/forum/index.php?showtopic=1625&st=30)
Great picture. I didn't know about that one. There's a color photo showing the all-yellow tail. It is a group of four in flight with Jo-Baby third from the camera...
I wish I knew how to do these skins. I am only now learning to modify the default for practice. Learning to do layers is gonna be a real pain.
-
No need to worry about the lack of fin fillet. The default skin is from a D-5 as well.
Excellent. :aok
-
A buddy of mine is going to work on this skin for me. Can his callsign be used as credit? He deserves it not me.
-
Just adding a few links to find later. I think I am leaning toward the fuselage band vs the all-yellow tail...
http://forum.armyairforces.com/download.axd?file=0;82366
(http://forum.armyairforces.com/download.axd?file=0;82366)
http://www.swissmustangs.ch/mediac/400_0/media/413287.jpg
(http://www.swissmustangs.ch/mediac/400_0/media/413287.jpg)
-
A friend of mine and I are working on the 52nd FG "Jo-Baby" scheme. He is tackling the earlier version (and his looks a LOT better than mine).
Any way... Not done yet. Long way to go, but for a first shot at it in a semi-presentable state...not terrible.
This is a lot harder than I imagined in many ways, easier in others. Frustrating, tedious, rewarding, and addicting.
BEFORE ANYONE STARTS SCREAMING AT ME....I am working my way slowly over the default skin. I have not completely eradicated all of it yet, but I will before I am done.
-
Good start.
I'd like to recommend that you adjust the shade of yellow. You should try "ID Yellow" from here. http://www.simmerspaintshop.com/page-RGB-colors-USA.html
-
Good start.
I'd like to recommend that you adjust the shade of yellow. You should try "ID Yellow" from here. http://www.simmerspaintshop.com/page-RGB-colors-USA.html
I am still trying to figure out what shade of yellow to use. The color photos are faded and the prints out there, including the one on my wall, vary.
Will check the site. Thank you. :aok
-
Looks like you're missing where the rear fuselage band comes over the top right in front of the stabilizer.
I'd like to recommend that you adjust the shade of yellow. You should try "ID Yellow" from here. http://www.simmerspaintshop.com/page-RGB-colors-USA.html
Could be Lemon Yellow on the same chart. Tough to tell.
-
Looks like you're missing where the rear fuselage band comes over the top right in front of the stabilizer.
Could be Lemon Yellow on the same chart. Tough to tell.
Yes. Lots to go on the underside, too. Cockpit. Nose.
The color is a challenge without some archive that tells me what it is... May wind up a judgment call... :(
-
Could be Lemon Yellow on the same chart. Tough to tell.
I doubt it. I figure the squadron would use the paint that was readily available, which "ID Yellow" was already being used for the theater markings.
-
I doubt it. I figure the squadron would use the paint that was readily available, which "ID Yellow" was already being used for the theater markings.
Could be. Will keep that in mind. I don't suppose anyone has documentation on any of this for the 52nd.... ???
-
I doubt it. I figure the squadron would use the paint that was readily available, which "ID Yellow" was already being used for the theater markings.
Tried it out and it rings true. Absent evidence to the contrary that's what I will go with.
(Ignore the horizontal stab. I was trying various shades to see how they look so it is very "spotty".)
-
Tried it out and it rings true. Absent evidence to the contrary that's what I will go with.
(Ignore the horizontal stab. I was trying various shades to see how they look so it is very "spotty".)
All I have to say is that if this P-51 gets added it will be my skin of choice I'm digging the yellow tail! :cheers:
-
All I have to say is that if this P-51 gets added it will be my skin of choice I'm digging the yellow tail! :cheers:
Thanks, man. I am trying. My bud "Grapetang" Loo is doing the one with the band on the fuselage and it looks amazing.
-
Could be Lemon Yellow on the same chart. Tough to tell.
Gonna try that color, too. May as well.
-
Okay I am home sick and am in so much pain I can't even sleep. Gonna' post this question then go back to bed. :cry
Just aft of the fuselage insignia the software "bends" the skin and creates a crease. Is this my vid card or is it just the way things are? What can I do to minimize that? Is it a color blending technique or something?
-
For my notes....
Plug these numbers into your materials file:
0.259,0.259,0.259,1.000,Ambient
0.741,0.741,0.741,1.000,Diffuse
0.000,0.000,0.000,1.000,Emissive
0.208,0.208,0.208,0.000,Specular
33.420,Power
-
Getting a lot closer now. :)
I am still befuddled by some things but I will just have to work my way up to it...
-
I do NOT understand why this screen shot comes out pixelated. UGH!!!
Need to line up the stripes and finish the bottom....
-
Great job Vraciu, looking real good. :aok
-
Great job Vraciu, looking real good. :aok
Thanks, man. Almost done!
-
(http://img.wp.scn.ru/camms/ar/165/pics/3_249_b1.jpg)
(https://scontent-b-ord.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1/1622757_10202931499949540_766632273_n.jpg)
-
Finally figured out how to make the flap and aileron gap lines. Also blended the base of the canopy. All I have left are the fuselage and wing panel lines, lower left nose cleanup, and metalizing of the skin.
-
Very nice
-
Very nice
TY. I am learning. The curve is steep!
-
TY. I am learning. The curve is steep!
You've done well. Much better than you did merging to kill my ME262 recently :neener:
Did you get your namesake's plane skinned yet?
-
You've done well. Much better than you did merging to kill my ME262 recently :neener:
Did you get your namesake's plane skinned yet?
Lol! Well that wasn't a high bar to clear, sir, so not sure how much of a compliment that even is. Lol!
Vraciu's plane is already in the game I believe. #19.
-
Lol! Well that wasn't a high bar to clear, sir, so not sure how much of a compliment that even is. Lol!
Vraciu's plane is already in the game I believe. #19.
LOL. The compliment was your skin looks great, couldn't resist the tease though bud <S> As my CO says, "You can't hit the Gingerbread man!". Have you shot down a 262 with another fighter yet? It is certainly not an easy task and if you have not yet when you do, good luck not jumping up and down and yelling Yeehaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! I shot two down last month and one down this month. I did however kill two of them while I was also flying a 262. FYI, 262 pilots do not like being chased down by another 262. Do not expect a return salute.
:devil
-
LOL. The compliment was your skin looks great, couldn't resist the tease though bud <S> As my CO says, "You can't hit the Gingerbread man!". Have you shot down a 262 with another fighter yet? It is certainly not an easy task and if you have not yet when you do, good luck not jumping up and down and yelling Yeehaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa! I shot two down last month and one down this month. I did however kill two of them while I was also flying a 262. FYI, 262 pilots do not like being chased down by another 262. Do not expect a return salute.
:devil
Three 262 kills. One in a Dora, one in a Pony, and one in a Ta-152. You were almost #4. Lol
Thanks on the skin. It is coming along. Almost there...
-
A big thanks to my nemesis FUGITIVE for the tips on how to get the pictures to look better, as well as Greebo's offline suggestions on the same subject. The overhead shot came out great compared to my previous efforts. Still don't quite have it down but will get there..... :salute
Gap Lines completed on bottom of wings and on elevators.
Gear Panel Lines completed.
Cowl and Antenna colors corrected.
Right Side Crew Panel added.
Not much more to go. I hope this thing has a prayer as it is not "weathered" like so many other skins are... I expect the silver fuselage parts to look more like the wings do once I am done. As of now they aren't as multi-colored.
-
Just in case anyone cares. I do realize I am running the risk of alienating the goodwill of this forum section with my seemingly insignificant screenshot updates. :joystick: :bhead :noid :furious :bolt:
Just panel lines to go really. Also have to make the windscreen frame SILVER. Oh boy.... That's gonna' be tough.
Back to being somewhat pixelated with the screenshot here. Not sure why... Almost done any way... Almost....
-
WOOT!!!!!!!!!!!!! :x
-
Congrats, but just to note its been submitted, not accepted. though I see no reason not to be. It will probably make the next release. Let us know. :aok
-
Congrats, but just to note its been submitted, not accepted. though I see no reason not to be. It will probably make the next release. Let us know. :aok
Not counting my chickens, but hoping for the best. I can tweak it down the road, and I probably will based on feedback....want to get it in the game so people can try it. :) That will seem like a real accomplishment.
Thanks for the kind words. :aok
-
sad to see the lack of the new skinning features such as bump mapping :(
-
The base looks pretty good, but it seems a bit too clean and: No weathering, exhaust stains, smoke stains from the guns, etc. Lack of these details kind of makes it come across as rather flat and lifeless.
-
Well, the actual airplane was quite clean. I may add exhaust stains to it but they would be very subtle. I minimized weathering on purpose based on the limited photos we have. This was a well-cared-for bird.
With regard to weathering I am a firm believer that less is more. Most of the time it is overdone.
Note how clean the area behind the exhaust is on "Old Crow" (Bud Anderson).
(http://www.wings-fine-arts.com/Images/ProductImages/John-Shaw/Bud-OldCrow.jpg)
(http://contentedits.com/clientimages/1465/BudAndersonOldCrowSite.jpg)
Many crew chiefs took great care of their planes, wiping them down after missions and so forth. Blakeslee, Preddy, Yeager, and many average Joe pilots have pictures of their planes looking quite clean. Some were for PR purposes and some were just that way because they were babied.
(http://www.crazyhorseap.be/Mustangs/Aces/GeorgePreddy/Preddy02.jpg)
Yours is a fair critique regardless. I thank you. :salute
-
sad to see the lack of the new skinning features such as bump mapping :(
A bit beyond my current abilities. Maybe down the road. :cheers:
-
do you still have all the layers that you used to make the main color image?
-
do you still have all the layers that you used to make the main color image?
Yes, sir.
-
If you like I could try to make you a sheet for the bumpmat and the spect sheet if you were to send them to me, then you could see what I have done
b.p.s.d32@gmail.com if my email if you would like to take up the offer just send me your original file with all the separate layers in it!
-
If you kept your layers separate creating a bump mapping will be fairly easy:
Make a solid layer filled with RGB value: 128, 128, 128. Duplicate your rivet, panel line, and other raised/lowered detail layers, place them on that solid image and adjust their transparency to tweak how dark/light they are, merge the layer, then convert the whole thing to grayscale. You now have a functional bump map.
Follow the instructions Skuzzy lists on the forum for saving and creating the TXT file, and voila.
-
well my offer is there is you want the help!
-
If you like I could try to make you a sheet for the bumpmat and the spect sheet if you were to send them to me, then you could see what I have done
b.p.s.d32@gmail.com if my email if you would like to take up the offer just send me your original file with all the separate layers in it!
Email on the way. Thank you kindly.
-
If you kept your layers separate creating a bump mapping will be fairly easy:
Make a solid layer filled with RGB value: 128, 128, 128. Duplicate your rivet, panel line, and other raised/lowered detail layers, place them on that solid image and adjust their transparency to tweak how dark/light they are, merge the layer, then convert the whole thing to grayscale. You now have a functional bump map.
Follow the instructions Skuzzy lists on the forum for saving and creating the TXT file, and voila.
Hmmmmmm.... Okay. Sounds easy but I just know it is gonna be a nightmare. Lol!
(It does have detail. This is an in-progress shot, but it shows the subtlety of the panel lines. They're not that obvious at a distance. I tried every shade imaginable. This one seemed to be the best color...)
http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=360232.0;attach=18956
-
Well, the actual airplane was quite clean. I may add exhaust stains to it but they would be very subtle. I minimized weathering on purpose based on the limited photos we have. This was a well-cared-for bird.
With regard to weathering I am a firm believer that less is more. Most of the time it is overdone.
Note how clean the area behind the exhaust is on "Old Crow" (Bud Anderson).
(http://www.wings-fine-arts.com/Images/ProductImages/John-Shaw/Bud-OldCrow.jpg)
(http://contentedits.com/clientimages/1465/BudAndersonOldCrowSite.jpg)
Many crew chiefs took great care of their planes, wiping them down after missions and so forth. Blakeslee, Preddy, Yeager, and many average Joe pilots have pictures of their planes looking quite clean. Some were for PR purposes and some were just that way because they were babied.
(http://www.crazyhorseap.be/Mustangs/Aces/GeorgePreddy/Preddy02.jpg)
Yours is a fair critique regardless. I thank you. :salute
the CRIP'S A'MIGHTY IS THE SKIN I FLY WITH
-
the CRIP'S A'MIGHTY IS THE SKIN I FLY WITH
Great fighter pilot. Sad end.
-
I can update this skin as needed after submission right?
How often are new skins released?
-
You can not currently update a skin once it is under review and the review process begins shortly after you have submitted it, a few days at most. The skins submission page is not yet set up for updates to existing skins, although it is intended for this feature to be added in the future.
Batches of skins are processed by HTC about once a month on average.
-
You can not currently update a skin once it is under review and the review process begins shortly after you have submitted it, a few days at most. The skins submission page is not yet set up for updates to existing skins, although it is intended for this feature to be added in the future.
Batches of skins are processed by HTC about once a month on average.
Thanks, Greebo. :aok
-
Talked to Skuzzy today. I need to submit a bump map or it will use the default, which will make it completely screwy. So, looks like I won't get it in on this round. That's good as it gives me motivation to bump map this turkey. I am grateful for all the advice on how to do so and will get started right away.
-
Oh man, I am so glad I am trying this bumping feature. It really helps reduce the shine on the parts that should be dull (the spec map doesn't quite get there).
So............ Greebo taught me how to create additional layers and in effect take a one- or two-layer file into multiple layers. For now I am "pulling out" the panel lines and it is working great but....
These bumps look grotesque. They are obviously "opposite" they way they should be. Is the solution to "negative image" the bump map? Also, I prefer subtle panel lines and rivets going INWARD not out. What am I doing wrong?
-
If the areas that you want indented are darker than the neutral gray, then you are doing it correctly. Remember, black for indents and white for bumps. If that is what you currently have, reverse the colors where needed.
-
If the areas that you want indented are darker than the neutral gray, then you are doing it correctly. Remember, black for indents and white for bumps. If that is what you currently have, reverse the colors where needed.
Got it. And the smaller the variation from the base color the smaller the bump effect, right? Neutral gray meaning my base color or is there a bump map neutral value? (Seems obvious but again, I am like a five-year old when it comes to this since it is all COMPLETELY new to me.)
-
Also, if I want to "silver" the skin in-game, do I need to lighten it on the base layer or should I use some other layer with an opaque setting ON TOP of the base?
Thanks for being patient with me. I know I am exasperating to you experts...
-
Got it. And the smaller the variation from the base color the smaller the bump effect, right? Neutral gray meaning my base color or is there a bump map neutral value? (Seems obvious but again, I am like a five-year old when it comes to this since it is all COMPLETELY new to me.)
The neutral value is a RGB value of 128, see this screen shot.
(http://i241.photobucket.com/albums/ff252/DropkickYankees/Bumpmapscreenie_zpsb5b6168d.png~original) (http://s241.photobucket.com/user/DropkickYankees/media/Bumpmapscreenie_zpsb5b6168d.png.html)
-
Also, if I want to "silver" the skin in-game, do I need to lighten it on the base layer or should I use some other layer with an opaque setting ON TOP of the base?
Thanks for being patient with me. I know I am exasperating to you experts...
You're talking about the specular map now correct? That is what adjusts the shine on individual parts. On the Spec. map, black is pure flat and white full shine. When you make yours, avoid using pure black or white. You will never find real components that flat or shiny, ever.
-
The neutral value is a RGB value of 128, see this screen shot.
Excellent!!!!!!! Thank you. That is perfect.
-
You're talking about the specular map now correct? That is what adjusts the shine on individual parts. On the Spec. map, black is pure flat and white full shine. When you make yours, avoid using pure black or white. You will never find real components that flat or shiny, ever.
Well.... Compare the following to my original skin. I brightened this one by 20 percent or so. Ignoring everything but the natural metal...is this how to make it look more "silver" like the real airplane? (First is brightened, second original.)
-
Well.... Compare the following to my original skin. I brightened this one by 20 percent or so. Ignoring everything but the natural metal...is this how to make it look more "silver" like the real airplane? (First is brightened, second original.)
Well, I've never tried to replicate bare metal on any of my skins. I wouldn't necessarily make it any lighter, some skinners make the base colors too light and to me it looks fake. That said, making a realistic bare metal effect is hardest thing about skinning. I'd ask Greebo how he does his, since he is hands down the master of bare metal.
-
Looking at your bump map I see you have made the panel lines and rivets subtly different from the base grey in order to avoid the effect being too stark. This isn't the best way to do this. This is because although there are 256 shades of grey available in the bump map the game does not read 256 variations of level from it, I'd guess its more like 16 or 32 levels of bump. The problem with using subtly different shades of grey is that sometimes the game will treat them both as the same level of bump.
A better way to tone down the bumps is to edit the P51D_B_d.txt file. The last line of this has two numbers and the second of these is the one you edit. If it has for example a value of 0.250000 it means the maximum bump (black to white on the bmp) will be three inches (0.25 of a foot). So reducing that figure to 0.025000 would make the biggest bump 0.3 inches. You can then make your blacks and whites on the bmp a lot more vivid and they will be read by the game but not cause massive bumps.
I'd suggest looking at one of my default bare metal skins' specularity maps to get an idea of the shades I use. The P-47D-25 or Ki-43 for instance. Basically though anything painted will be dark grey and anything bare metal light grey. Also dark panel lines and any shadow effects should be transferred to the spec map. Looking at your last screenshot the anti glare panel looks far too shiny. With that area turned much darker on the bump map than the bare metal it will kill that shine and look much more realistic.
I linked my old bare metal tutorial (http://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/topic,279659.0.html) in your "working in layers" thread. Its a bit out of date as AH didn't have spec maps then and the material.txt shown is invalid for the current game, but for painting the basic skin its worth reading.
-
Excellent input as always. I definitely agree with you on the anti-glare panel. That was what jumped out at me the most with my first view of the bump map on. (I have so far only messed with that nose section until I can understand the settings). Still cloning the additional layers for the full bump map...
I will look at everything you've suggested.
That said, I need to loop back to one point. Am I going to have to repaint my base layer if I want the metal to look lighter or can I accomplish that by adjusting brightness, contrast, color balance, etc.? (Probably in your tutorial, which I read, believe it or not.)
http://www.swissmustangs.ch/mediac/400_0/media/413287.jpg
-
If you have made the painted areas of the skin as different layers to the bare metal layer then you can simply change the colour of that layer. If you have painted it all on one layer then you'd have to use a colour picker tool to select the bare metal area to adjust. It doesn't look like it needs to be lighter to me though.
-
If you have made the painted areas of the skin as different layers to the bare metal layer then you can simply change the colour of that layer. If you have painted it all on one layer then you'd have to use a colour picker tool to select the bare metal area to adjust. It doesn't look like it needs to be lighter to me though.
Even compared to the actual photos? Fair enough. Thanks, Greebo.
-
The base looks pretty good, but it seems a bit too clean and: No weathering, exhaust stains, smoke stains from the guns, etc. Lack of these details kind of makes it come across as rather flat and lifeless.
Playing with bump mapping and spec mapping... Trying different things. I think I have figured out what to do with the cowling panels.
I see what Saxman was trying to get at. Even this little bit has made a difference...
-
It could do with a exhaust stain along the fuselage. If you look at the photo you can see a faint stain running from the rear of the exhaust and curling down with the airflow across the top of the wing.
There doesn't seem to be a lot of difference between the specularity on the bare metal and the painted areas. Are you using a spec map on it?
-
Ok will try that.
Spec map is still being built. I am trying to figure out what to do. The tail seems glossy in the color photos so I figure the yellows will be shiny, the insignia and nose flat. Would you agree?
-
I'd suggest the yellow and red might want to be a little more shiny than the markings and anti-glare strip, but a lot less shiny than the bare metal.
Make the yellow and red areas on the spec map a separate layer from the insignia and the anti-glare strip. That way you can easily adjust the shade of grey on each.
-
I'd suggest the yellow and red might want to be a little more shiny than the markings and anti-glare strip, but a lot less shiny than the bare metal.
Make the yellow and red areas on the spec map a separate layer from the insignia and the anti-glare strip. That way you can easily adjust the shade of grey on each.
I will give it a shot.
-
Per your suggestions Greebo. (Note, I noticed I am slightly off alignment on a few of the specular sections. Also need to do the inboard wing stripes. They are bright shiny right now and not duller like the tail--I didn't get them first time through. Will fix those before the final version.)
It looks REALLY slick with the shiny metal.
The gun bay doors are a little over bumped. I will have to back that down. Same with the flap and wing rivets. I tried max power on the right wing. Don't like the result.
-
The spec map has made the skin look a lot better.
The skin could do with some weathering though. Looking at the photo there is a faint exhaust stain running back from the exhaust and curling down in line with the airflow running across the top of the wing.
You could also try creating a noise effect across the skin to avoid the colours looking too solid and fake. To do this make a copy of the base paint layer in the main skin file and name it "noise effect". Place the layer above all your paint and metal layers and then change the colour of the layer to a solid mid grey like 128/128/128. In Paint Shop Pro the noise effect is reached through the menus via Adjust, then Add/Remove Noise, then Add Noise. I set the dots to random and 50% then click OK. You'll have to figure out exactly how to reach this effect if you use Photoshop or Gimp or whatever. What the noise effect does is create loads of little bright red, green and blue random dots all over your grey layer. Now reduce the opacity of this layer until you can barely see it, say 2%-4% opacity. The paint and metal will now have a slightly scruffy, worn look to it.
-
Also, weren't the upper wing surfaces on the Mustangs generally painted, lacquered, or something? I seem to recall reading somewhere that the wing tops were seldom actually BMF like the fuselage.
-
Also, weren't the upper wing surfaces on the Mustangs generally painted, lacquered, or something? I seem to recall reading somewhere that the wing tops were seldom actually BMF like the fuselage.
I read that in Greebo's metal tutorial link... You are right about that. Wish I had known that before I started weathering it. Lol
-
The spec map has made the skin look a lot better.
The skin could do with some weathering though. Looking at the photo there is a faint exhaust stain running back from the exhaust and curling down in line with the airflow running across the top of the wing.
You could also try creating a noise effect across the skin to avoid the colours looking too solid and fake. To do this make a copy of the base paint layer in the main skin file and name it "noise effect". Place the layer above all your paint and metal layers and then change the colour of the layer to a solid mid grey like 128/128/128. In Paint Shop Pro the noise effect is reached through the menus via Adjust, then Add/Remove Noise, then Add Noise. I set the dots to random and 50% then click OK. You'll have to figure out exactly how to reach this effect if you use Photoshop or Gimp or whatever. What the noise effect does is create loads of little bright red, green and blue random dots all over your grey layer. Now reduce the opacity of this layer until you can barely see it, say 2%-4% opacity. The paint and metal will now have a slightly scruffy, worn look to it.
I am thinking the black we see is from boot scuffs possibly... WD*S has some exhaust residue in the black and white picture. However... Look at the later color photos with the all-yellow tail scheme. Those airplanes are spotlessly clean (relatively speaking), wouldn't you agree?
I will get to work on the noise layer next, per your suggestions.
-
Also, weren't the upper wing surfaces on the Mustangs generally painted, lacquered, or something? I seem to recall reading somewhere that the wing tops were seldom actually BMF like the fuselage.
Been doing some research. The silver paint was not universal. Many airplanes had a natural metal wing finish depending on various factors. Airplanes stripped of their OD paint were NMF. Some planes had the silver paint and putty removed after wear and tear ate into it. Some were delivered NMF.
So now what I have to do is determine what Jo-Baby came with.
The ailerons and flaps were unpainted even on the NMF birds.... And the bw picture shows the flap reflecting some sunlight..... Perhaps after I add the noise I can turn the spec map down for the wings to differentiate them from the fuse, ailerons, and flaps.
Also, if putty was used to keep the wing surface smooth then bump mapping would be slight at most on them....
-
Like this?
If we ever get the skin updater, I hope to put this in
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd121/jackfrost_011/Clipboard10-2.jpg) (http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jackfrost_011/media/Clipboard10-2.jpg.html)
-
Like this?
If we ever get the skin updater, I hope to put this in
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd121/jackfrost_011/Clipboard10-2.jpg) (http://s221.photobucket.com/user/jackfrost_011/media/Clipboard10-2.jpg.html)
That's my take. Not sure offhand how much difference there is between them. That's a judgment call. Nice skin, too.
-
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/1003/hurk130/2779P51_walkaround_6.jpg)
-
Greebs,
If I want to make the flaps look different from the wing, is that primarily via the spec map, the base layer, or both? I have turned down the flashing on the wing but for some reason, to my eye any way, it looks the same as the flaps and ailerons (which are pure white on the spec map).
-
You only see a difference in specularity when your viewpoint is angled to catch a reflected highlight from the sun. If you want the difference to be more visible from any angle you should add some sort of painted on reflections to the base skin as well. This could be a blue hint to the top and a greenish hint to the bottom of the control surfaces, as if they were reflecting the sky and ground. Or just make the bare metal bits a little lighter than the painted area of the wing. But whatever you decide to do, keep it subtle.
-
The spec map has made the skin look a lot better.
The skin could do with some weathering though. Looking at the photo there is a faint exhaust stain running back from the exhaust and curling down in line with the airflow running across the top of the wing.
You could also try creating a noise effect across the skin to avoid the colours looking too solid and fake. To do this make a copy of the base paint layer in the main skin file and name it "noise effect". Place the layer above all your paint and metal layers and then change the colour of the layer to a solid mid grey like 128/128/128. In Paint Shop Pro the noise effect is reached through the menus via Adjust, then Add/Remove Noise, then Add Noise. I set the dots to random and 50% then click OK. You'll have to figure out exactly how to reach this effect if you use Photoshop or Gimp or whatever. What the noise effect does is create loads of little bright red, green and blue random dots all over your grey layer. Now reduce the opacity of this layer until you can barely see it, say 2%-4% opacity. The paint and metal will now have a slightly scruffy, worn look to it.
Done. Not sure if I need more than 4% or not. I am guessing it shouldn't be readily noticeable, but will have an effect nonetheless...
-
Greene,
Should I noise up the Spec a Map, too?
-
It won't take a moment to copy the noise layer over to the spec map. Try it and see what difference it makes. If you don't like the effect just turn the layer off or delete it.
-
Okay, so I am nowhere near as good as the others in this thread but, this is much more lively than what I originally submitted. Glad I messed that up so I could take the time to improve. I have pretty much given up on exhaust stains. I can't get them right no matter what I try...