Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: OkieOkie on August 31, 2021, 01:34:19 PM
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I'm currently using Logitech "Extreme 3d Pro". I know part of the problem is I get in combat and overwork the js until I wear it out but I don't think I have ever completely set it up correctly with proper damping, & all things correctly assigned in the options window. After a month, this one lists to the left. Tried correcting but messed up the settings so bad I'm going to re-install AH3 as a way to start over. I don't see a specific folder I can just delete to get 'everything' back to default.
1) What is the best joystick for AH3?
2) Are there some complete directions / tutorial for how to set up the joystick completely?
Thanks
Okie
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Best .... Virpil or VKB
For Virpil the Constellation Alpha or a Virpil Mongoos CM2 Grip on a warbrd or CM2 Base. For VKB the Gunfighter Mk.III ‘Modern Combat Edition.
As an honorable mention I have to toss out the WinWing Orion which is an out and out TM: Warthog killer for a lower price but they are hard to get.
Virpil is hardest to set up due to software, VKB is much easier, Wingwing is probably easiest.
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THanks I'll check those out. Any thoughts about Thrustmaster?
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T1600 is the best bang for the buck these days IMO.
Used one in between the last X52 setup and my current warthog
I use the thrustmaster throttle that is the mate to the T1600 with the warthog
Eagler
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I have a Logitech X56 Rhino, I love it.
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I think the CH Fighterstick is worth a mention too - look around online for a good used one if $ is a factor.
I have a large hotas collection and many years of playing online/offline with them.
I have 6 Virpil sticks, 8 grips, 4 of their throttles, their collective heli units, 5 different custom rudder pedals, 2 VKB Gfighters, 4 TM Wartogs, 2 Cougars, and a pile (a collection of Hotas since 1998 and before) of other Hotas, 20 stick/rudder combos of Saitek and the like.
Every Stick/Hotas/Rudder combo has it's pros and cons. Budget is extremely important regarding the OPs question IMO. I've picked up NiB CH Fighterstick and throttle combos online here in Canada for very little $ - like $30 USD for both (I can post pics of all of this stuff..again). Something along these lines is what I'd recommend, again, if cost/price is a large factor. If it isn't, as Mayhem recommended, Virpil or VKB are the best options at the moment.
Regarding TM Warthogs. It's a great HOTAS, but eventually, the stick will get the "sticktion" issue, and will require you to take it apart, replace the ring, completely clean it, re grease it properly, and then reassemble. Of the 4 TM WH sticks I have, 3 have had this happen in varying degrees of time and use. Also, their customer service is in France, and in my experience, a GIANT PITA. That said, many love the TM WH, and it isn't a "bad" choice, but for the price now...go with VKB's Gunfighter, or Vipil's 2 options, depending if you want to play on the desktop or off of a desk clamp setup.
You also have to consider your throttle and pedals setups, or at least the stick you want's ability to control these axis.
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oops, DP.
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T1600 is the best bang for the buck these days IMO.
Used one in between the last X52 setup and my current warthog
I use the thrustmaster throttle that is the mate to the T1600 with the warthog
Eagler
I'd love to continue to saying that the T16000M is a great stick, but the fact is that the Z-axis (twisty stick input)on my last 2 sticks has been fubar within 2 months of purchase. In each case, I used the sensor cannibalized from the very first T16000M I bought 7-8 years ago to fix the issue.
Otherwise, the stick will last about 3 years before the trigger, hat switch, or throttle wears out. Not bad for what was usually a $60-70 stick.
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I'm a few years into a VKB Gunfighter with MCG-Pro grip. Can't imagine a better stick. It's super bullet proof constructed, precise and super smooth. It's hyper configurable with different cams, springs and dampers. Change what you want to make it your own. The software isn't the easiest to deal with but if you can think of something you want a button or hat to do.... It'll prolly do it. Once you get the hang of it you're fine. It cost more than a few bucks but I don't think I'll ever be buying another stick.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
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I'm a few years into a VKB Gunfighter with MCG-Pro grip. Can't imagine a better stick. It's super bullet proof constructed, precise and super smooth. It's hyper configurable with different cams, springs and dampers. Change what you want to make it your own. The software isn't the easiest to deal with but if you can think of something you want a button or hat to do.... It'll prolly do it. Once you get the hang of it you're fine. It cost more than a few bucks but I don't think I'll ever be buying another stick.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
Agreed- so long as the budget supports it. You truly get what you pay for with the VKB (Virpil as well), in fact more IMO.
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Should add using rudder pedals so no twisty function experience with any jstick
Eagler
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Love my VKB with MCG grip. :aok Was also happy with CH stuff and still use their Pro pedals & Pro throttle, but has been mentioned in past threads their quality control has apparently been very bad since they were bought out..
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For pedals I have MFG Crosswinds. They're also very well built, smooth and precise. They have toe brakes too. All contactless sensors. Get the damper mod too, I did. Took them to another level of precision I didn't think was possible.
Sent from my SM-G991U using Tapatalk
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Should add using rudder pedals so no twisty function experience with any jstick
Eagler
The exact part which usually gives way in all cheap sticks, those pedals might have saved u a lot.
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If money is no object, I have found the VKB MCG Ultimate grip/Gunfighter base combo to be the perfect grip/stick for me.
I can't find a flaw with the hardware.
The configuration software can be tricky/confusing to learn if you need to customize the control maps/functionality, but once you learn, it can do just about anything you want.
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THanks I'll check those out. Any thoughts about Thrustmaster?
I have the T16000 HOTAS and I love it.
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I have the T16000 HOTAS and I love it.
Best bang for your buck.
Add ch peds and your all set
Eagler
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Best bang for your buck.
Add ch peds and your all set
Eagler
The pedals that come with it work fine.
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The pedals that come with it work fine.
Yes if you get the flight pack
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/thrustmaster-t-16000m-fcs-flight-pack-black/6383456.p?skuId=6383456&ref=212&loc=1&extStoreId=462&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhuCKBhADEiwA1HegOQmmeCGt5ipiRglAm7KCjW8pWPglYu65G0_8rZ1CV0WbePwKWinPIBoC1y0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
The normal HOTAS setup doesn't include rudder pedals
Eagler
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Yes if you get the flight pack
https://www.bestbuy.com/site/thrustmaster-t-16000m-fcs-flight-pack-black/6383456.p?skuId=6383456&ref=212&loc=1&extStoreId=462&ref=212&loc=1&gclid=CjwKCAjwhuCKBhADEiwA1HegOQmmeCGt5ipiRglAm7KCjW8pWPglYu65G0_8rZ1CV0WbePwKWinPIBoC1y0QAvD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
The normal HOTAS setup doesn't include rudder pedals
Eagler
right. I assumed that HOTAS meant everything was included
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I'm currently using Logitech "Extreme 3d Pro". I know part of the problem is I get in combat and overwork the js until I wear it out but I don't think I have ever completely set it up correctly with proper damping, & all things correctly assigned in the options window. After a month, this one lists to the left. Tried correcting but messed up the settings so bad I'm going to re-install AH3 as a way to start over. I don't see a specific folder I can just delete to get 'everything' back to default.
1) What is the best joystick for AH3?
2) Are there some complete directions / tutorial for how to set up the joystick completely?
Thanks
Okie
Regardless of brand, I've never been able to get any of them to calibrate properly. My gunsight is all over the screen. Presently using a Thrustmaster and it works best for me, all things said.
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Regardless of brand, I've never been able to get any of them to calibrate properly. My gunsight is all over the screen. Presently using a Thrustmaster and it works best for me, all things said.
Which thrustmaster device are you currently using? I break joysticks every 6 weeks to 3 months or so. I've pretty much used anything in the budget range and know how to calibrate it - calibration isn't the issue with some sticks like a very new T16000M but the
T flight stick and hotas x
Those must absolutely be fine tuned beyond a simple calibration.
The Logitech extreme 3d pro is extremely different. It should be accurate when new with it's sensitivity set at about 30% pitch and roll and 20 yaw.
The t flight hotas one and 4 have firmware that removes the t flight hotas x terrible deadzone. They are decent but you will develop issues with twist axis.
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This is the reason I plunked down the bucks on the VKB Gunfighter stick. This will never happen. It's so well built (mostly metal) I can't imagine anything on it, other than maybe some wiring, EVER breaking. I think you'd have to drive over it or something! The wiring is easily repaired. They stand by their stuff and if anything does screw up they'll send you new parts. Even a whole PCB if need be. I once had something that was mis-wired. They walked me right thru troubleshooting the problem and correcting it. Pricey tho, for sure. The idea was to buy one stick that would likely last me the rest of my internet flying days. I'm a tools guy and I hate buying crappy tools that break after using them a couple of times(looking at you Harbor Freight!). Always kick myself for not getting the better tool. Tools are expensive. Don't want to go broke replacing them all the time either. Same thing.
I had two CH sticks over the years. One was a gameport model that was still working but had to be replaced with a USB model when gameport went the way of the dinosaur. The USB one was starting to have the buttons and hats give out. Had a lot of miles on them for sure but also had to tear them down to clean or replace the pots (which are semi-hard to come by) and also re-seat the wires fairly often to avoid the jitters. I never actually broke anything on them. Good stuff in it's day and affordable but QC, as I understand, it has fallen off dramatically so it might be a crap shoot buying a CH these days. Never had a Logitech stick but from what I gather from the forums around the net, they're fairly fragile/disposable/entry level stuff. Something breaking on them is almost to be expected.
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This is the reason I plunked down the bucks on the VKB Gunfighter stick. This will never happen. It's so well built (mostly metal) I can't imagine anything on it, other than maybe some wiring, EVER breaking. I think you'd have to drive over it or something! The wiring is easily repaired. They stand by their stuff and if anything does screw up they'll send you new parts.
I have a question about the VKB hat switch - is it just 4-way and you have to use multiple other buttons to get all the needed views?
The MS FFB2 has an 8-way hat switch and when I select a toggle, I get a total of 16 views covering level and up views in all 8 quadrants...
Thanks in advance.
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I have a question about the VKB hat switch - is it just 4-way and you have to use multiple other buttons to get all the needed views?
The MS FFB2 has an 8-way hat switch and when I select a toggle, I get a total of 16 views covering level and up views in all 8 quadrants...
Thanks in advance.
It depends on the stick or grip. I'm not sure about the Gladiator but all the hats on my MCG-Pro grip are 4-way with a center button press except one which is kinda special. It's an 8-way with center button press. That hat has two modes. A long press on center changes it to a two axis controller. A short press centers it, another long press brings it back to the 8-way hat. I use the axis mode to adjust elevator and aileron trim. But in short, I think all the hats VKB uses are a minimal 4-way with center press. And they're very stiff compared to say a CH hat. Feels like you clicked something.
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But in short, I think all the hats VKB uses are a minimal 4-way with center press. And they're very stiff compared to say a CH hat. Feels like you clicked something.
Do you adjust your in-game FOV to get maximum view coverage with the 4-way? Max FOV is 115? (whoa 152 degrees - I just checked. I currently have mine at 105 degrees.) Then the up views as a toggle?
Thanks for the replies... might bite the bullet for a less nose bouncy stick and learn to ride the stall edge w/o the force feedback...
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I'm pretty sure I was at 115 before I went VR a few years back. Hard playing on a screen once you do that! You're no longer looking AT the cockpit, you're IN the cockpit! Looks like you can reach out and touch the planes.
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I'm pretty sure I was at 115 before I went VR a few years back. Hard playing on a screen once you do that! You're no longer looking AT the cockpit, you're IN the cockpit! Looks like you can reach out and touch the planes.
Thanks again... I'm om the fence about VR - wearing glasses plus I'll probably puke, lol. But I guess once you get used to it that it becomes more immersive (as long as you don't bang your head on the table in frustration.)
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Mr Magoo glasses here..
I find the vive pro allows me to wear glasses inside it.
VR is a game changer..was for me as I now shoot down more than shoot me down :)
Eagler
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I have a question about the VKB hat switch - is it just 4-way and you have to use multiple other buttons to get all the needed views?
The MS FFB2 has an 8-way hat switch and when I select a toggle, I get a total of 16 views covering level and up views in all 8 quadrants...
Thanks in advance.
8 way on the GF3 with the premiere space grip. Think all the hatswitches on my Virpil throttle are 8 way as well.
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What is the VR set?
I might go insane and spend lots of money before it’s worth nothing :old: