Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: Max on March 17, 2019, 08:23:58 AM
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Win 7 support ends next Jan. I left behind Win XP kicking and screaming, lolz. I see MS maintains a website that still provides a free installation of W10 on machines with valid W7 OS's The link shows as www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows10 I plan to upgrade my desktop only so will choose the "Upgrade this PC now" option. OTOH, should I lose a HD and need to do a clean reinstall at some point should I opt for the "create installation media" instead?
How long will the upgrade take? Any other words of wisdom I should be aware of?
Thanks in advance! :old:
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I lost a hard drive and simply signed into my M$ account after installing windows 10 and it authenticated.
Depending on your drive speed it can be as long as 20 or 30 minutes to install.
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I would do a fresh install instead of upgrading over the accumulated debris of an OS that does things in a different way.
You can create the USB media either for your existing computer or "for another computer", mostly it's about drivers and maybe it will transfer the license as well. I use the generic one all the time. Get a new HDD just because and install using the Win7 license code on the sticker, taking care you choose the right version. Home to Home, Pro or Ultimate to Pro etc.
It should take about an hour or so depending on the speed of your computer. After that you'll have to install the motherboard drivers, then the external card drivers (video). It's pretty straightforward.
Oh, and: You will be strongly suggested to use a Microsoft account, the option for a local account is in the lower left corner of the screen on a low contrast small font. When the installation is finished, you'll be asked to use speech recognition and to allow all kinds of ways to spy on you for more effective marketing. Simply click the chapter saying "No, I don't want to..." and click Next. There's seven such questions before you get to the Desktop for the first time. There's more privacy related settings in the Settings, but disabling those is a good start.
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Very timely thread, as Oculus dumped me along with support for 7. I feared I'd have to fork over $ for 10.
Great tip on 7 Pro to 10 Pro. I will look for that and the rest. Hope I can remember how to do the USB bit.
Thanks guys
:cheers:
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Easyscor, it's pretty straightforward. Simply download the "Tool" in the link Max provided, run it and after accepting the EULA, choose the "Create media for another computer" option. Boot from the USB stick you just created and follow the instructions. When asked for the license key, apply the one you've been using for Win7.
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I don't see anything at the link that says it's still a free upgrade from W7 to W10. It specifies you need a Win10 license.
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I don't see anything at the link that says it's still a free upgrade from W7 to W10. It specifies you need a Win10 license.
It's a public secret, well documented in various IT articles both in English and Finnish, don't know about other languages though.
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Here is exactly how I upgraded 2 machines in January. I already had a windows 10 DVD. If you don't have one you can download it from Microsoft using their tools. Note that the DVD has every version of Windows 10 on it. It determines your flavor of windows based on the license/key you type in.
If you choose to do the fresh install just inset the DVD and follow directions. Skip anything in setup that asks for a license/key. After you have windows running, then you can go to START>>SETTINGS>>UPDATE & SECURITY>>ACTIVATION>> under UPDATE PRODUCT KEY select CHANGE PRODUCT KEY. Type in your windows 7 product key there. It will activate with a digital key for the same flavor of windows as the key is for.
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Anyone know how to get rid of Cortina or however you spell it in windows 10? Also Skype? I need these removed somehow.
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Anyone know how to get rid of Cortina or however you spell it in windows 10? Also Skype? I need these removed somehow.
Cortana can be turned of via All Settings/Cortana. Just turn the toggles off.
Skype can be uninstalled by following All Settings/Apps/Apps & Features. Simply click uninstall on any apps you do not wish to have.
Coogan
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Cortana can be turned of via All Settings/Cortana. Just turn the toggles off.
Skype can be uninstalled by following All Settings/Apps/Apps & Features. Simply click uninstall on any apps you do not wish to have.
Coogan
Thank you. Do you think uninstalling both of those would improve performance. If so, do you have any other tips or things to disable?
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Thank you. Do you think uninstalling both of those would improve performance. If so, do you have any other tips or things to disable?
I don't believe that Cortana can be unistalled, only turned off. Removing anything that runs in the background will help. Just make sure it's things you'll never use.
I got rid of all of the games that Microsoft force on installation.
I also turn off Game-Mode and anything associated with it. Having that turned on actually made my games worse. :headscratch:
Once you get it fine-tuned, I think you'll be a happy gamer. It took me a while to get things somewhat streamlined, but in the end I feel it's quite worth the effort.
Coogan
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havent been able to install upgrades in win7 in years. how is this different?
semp
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havent been able to install upgrades in win7 in years. how is this different?
semp
If you're talking about upgrading on top of the existing Win7, that option went away with the nagging offer a few years ago. This is about a clean install using the license code of Win7.
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If you're talking about upgrading on top of the existing Win7, that option went away with the nagging offer a few years ago. This is about a clean install using the license code of Win7.
You can still UPGRADE windows 7. You just need to start the windows 10 install from within windows 7. Which means while the machine is booted up in windows 7. You will then get the option to upgrade.
Here is a link on a how to with all the info...
https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=0ahUKEwij35rk4Y3hAhWpna0KHXmnCmcQzPwBCAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.zdnet.com%2Farticle%2Fheres-how-you-can-still-get-a-free-windows-10-upgrade%2F&psig=AOvVaw2jzhZCcpXpRMhdryrqTSq9&ust=1553069743534791 (https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&source=web&cd=&ved=0ahUKEwij35rk4Y3hAhWpna0KHXmnCmcQzPwBCAM&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.zdnet.com%2Farticle%2Fheres-how-you-can-still-get-a-free-windows-10-upgrade%2F&psig=AOvVaw2jzhZCcpXpRMhdryrqTSq9&ust=1553069743534791)
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Soooooooooooooooo……...I successfully installed Win10 (tip of the hat to Bizman for answering a plethora of questions during the process) I took the opportunity to transition to a SSD. Dang, they're fast :aok
I'm slowly but surely learning the ways of W10. Adding a Google search bar to Edge isn't doable, eh? Nor is Chrome, for that matter. Any tips and tricks pertinent to Win10 + Edge are welcome.
Oh yeah...I mentioned to Bizman that upon downloading a fresh install of AH3, the scenery appeared to be a bit more crisp/vivid. Anyone else have that experience? I'm using a GTX 760 card.
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Soooooooooooooooo……...I successfully installed Win10 (tip of the hat to Bizman for answering a plethora of questions during the process) I took the opportunity to transition to a SSD. Dang, they're fast :aok
You're scaring me Max. :) What tips?
I'm backing up my ssd now in prep to begin the install later this morning or afternoon.
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I stand corrected.
However, upgrading from 7 to 10 may not be the smartest move since the two OS'es act differently in allowing programs to directly run hardware. Back in 2016 many players reported about poor performance and glitches in upgraded computers, and that the issues were gone after a clean install.
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Ah, right. I was planning a clean install of the OS and programs.
Anything else?
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Easy, if Max could do it, you can. :D
Max, do I understand you right? You should be able to install Chrome to 10, I just did it today.
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I run chrome on 10
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I have 2 windows 7 home premium 32 bit installation discs.
Used those key codes to do clean install and activate windows 10 home 64 bit on 2 computers.
So you can upgrade from 32 bit windows 7 to 64 bit windows 10 for free (or windows 7 pro to windows 10 pro, which I did on another computer).
Save those windows 7 activation keys because if you have to re-install or change too much hardware in windows 10 you'll need to enter them again to re-activate. For example, if you change a major component, like a motherboard or cpu, or just move the windows 10 hard drive to another computer, after installing windows 10.
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A license key is just bound to the Windows edition (Home, Pro, etc) but not to the architecture version (32/64 Bit).
So a 32 Bit key may be used for 64 Bit install or vice versa but not Home key for Pro.
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It took me 3 or 4 times at reinstalling before I got it right. Seems to be running okay.
Biggest issue for me is the lack of support for my 5 or 6 year old 27" Viewsonic paired to a 17" Dell monitor. Both are 1980x1080p and Win10 doesn't offer that resolution for my Viewsonic. With both monitors recognized, it gets worse with wider, shorter res. + inappropriate scaling. On Win7 the Viewsonic is 1920x1080 and the Dell is rotated into Portrait mode at 1024x1280 . From what I've seen so far, Win10 with Nvidia don't allow that setup. btw the Dell is probably 8+ years old.
I'm installing AH3 and Oculus next, the main reason for the update, to see if I even want to continue.
It just occured to me to set the Dell at 768x1024 and see if that works.
Wish me luck.
:cheers:
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Do you have the motherboard drivers installed? All common native resolutions should be supported so there's something not right with your drivers.
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This came up at some point in the: Driver updates for Windows 10, along with many devices, such as network adapters, monitors, printers, and video cards, are automatically downloaded and installed through Windows Update.
I'll be installing 398.xx shortly, or whichever the latest one is. Got it on my 10 driver usb along with several others. The initial install and setup is painful. I can see why Skuzzy didn't sound like he liked 10. All together though, it isn't much worse the 8.1, or 7 or xp. Most people will never do an OS installation.
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Drives me nuts that Nvidia and others make it so difficult to find drivers for their products even though (edit) especially when (end edit) they are sitting on their website. Installation of every driver has failed so far with something like "Your hardware doesn't meet the requirements."
As I said originally, it was Oculus that forced me to upgrade, and they are no better than anyone else as far as the above goes. But on the plus side, I stumbled upon, and almost missed, a link on the Oculus site directly to a page that may have solved my Nvidia driver problem.
https://www.nvidia.com/Download/index.aspx
Plug in the spec for your card, like Geforce 10 series, etc and it spits out the "latest" driver. In my case, 419.35, not 398.xx as my earlier searches at the Nvidia site suggested.
I know, you're shaking your head at my latest dumb attempts. I hope that link helps other dummies like me to ease the frustration level.
:bhead :bhead :bhead :bhead
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You were absolutely right Bizman. Thank you. Between the dumb user at the keyboard and the lack of helpful info on the websites, I might have given up. (Win10 had installed Nvidia 388.xx and said my 398 was older or some such.)
Worse, in the morning I'll see if Intel has Win10 drivers for my MB chipsets, out of order, I know, it's that dumb user again. Since audio and ethernet seem to be working, I think I can pass on those Realtek drivers. :pray
I refuse to 'fly' without Oculus and that's only left tank nights in the AvA on Win7. I look forward to getting back to Monday night's craziness in fighters if all goes well. Look out Shuffler, there may be a 'Bruester' with a wrench and a hammer looking for you soon. :x
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Glad you got it sorted! :aok
On the positive side, having learned something new is preemptive against potential memory disease issues in the future!
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What's your Win10 build version ?
Some newer gfx drivers refuse to install on Win10 older than 1803 (1809 is the most recent build)
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Snip
I know, you're shaking your head at my latest dumb attempts. I hope that link helps other dummies like me to ease the frustration level.
Snip
When upgrading an old machine there can be all kinds of issues or it can be smooth as silk. Those of us who have done many OS upgrades will not be shaking our heads at your hunt for a driver. It happens sometimes.
It is what it is.
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I look forward to getting back to Monday night's craziness in fighters if all goes well. Look out Shuffler, there may be a 'Bruester' with a wrench and a hammer looking for you soon. :x
Looking forward to seeing you back. I have missed the last two weeks of MNM because of real life. I will be there this next one for sure.
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None of the latest drivers for my ASUS P8P67-LE work in Win 10, including the Win8.1 drivers several internet message board posters claimed. Maybe they did a year ago, but no more, apparently. Not a big issue as everything is working reasonably well except for a bit of lag from my PCIe USB card. I'll see if the mfg's driver fixes that or buy a new card. Even a retired guy can afford that.
Installed and used Win10 for Tank Night last night and everything went great. Better then usual even.
Next for me is checking Skuzzy's list of telemetry things to disable, then transfering my Thunderbird and Firefox profiles (yeah, I never went with Pale Moon even though I think I should have. I was afraid for future support.)
Might sound like I'm done but I haven't even tried to install Office (2003) yet. Tons of programs and data still waiting for the all clear point.
For Denniss, as I said, that Nvidia link I posted delivered driver 419.35 for my MB using Win10. Oh! and it works great! Both my monitors are now set up properly with the Dell in portrait mode the same way I had it in Win7. I'm very happy. That link is highly recommended to anyone with grafic card problems. I just hope Win10 dosen't futs with it. I belive my install is your 1809 or whatever. According to the download site, they only distribute the latest version of Windows 10 including all the latest updates.
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Since the latest W8.1 chipset drivers are from 2013, I'd first check the Device Manager to see if W10 has already installed later ones. If they're still dated, Intel download center (https://downloadcenter.intel.com/) is the place to go. Their automatic Driver and Support Assistant may or may not work for you but it's worth a try.
PaleMoon didn't prove as nice as it looked when Skuzzy recommended it. In fact, in a later post he withdrew from his recommendation. Firefox is what I recommend the most just because they don't try to spy on you for selling your marketing profile.
After installing Office2003 don't forget to install the Compatibility Pack to be able to open files created with Office 2007 and later. Microsoft doesn't necessarily have it any longer for download but it can be easily found.
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Good advice. Ran the Intel Assistant with no joy and along the line Intel said they've suspended chipset driver support (only for older MBs?) I'll check ASUS next but iirc it sent me to Intel last time.
Office is running now, have the Service Pack for it and had the Compatibility Pack sitting on my desktop for awhile, hope I didn't lose it. 2003 was the last version before I thought they ruined the program. I should probably look into the last stand alone version released last year.
Somehow I've got to find the ability to keep 10 from ejecting my C: drive LOL. It shows as an option along with ejecting USBs and DVDs.
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I looked at ASUS, they don't have a Win10 download for that MB.
I'm guessing the option to eject the C drive may be from setting it to hot plug in BIOS.
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the option to eject the C drive may be from setting it to hot plug in BIOS.
That's as good a guess as anything. Showing various drives and partitions as ejectable is a thing I've encountered several times in various occasions. It's a glitch but not a dangerous one. I'd leave it as is, but if it really bugs you there's fixes for it, a Registry hack being the last resort as described here: https://www.easeus.com/backup-recovery/windows-10-thinks-my-hard-drive-is-removable.html (https://www.easeus.com/backup-recovery/windows-10-thinks-my-hard-drive-is-removable.html)
I've never tested any of the fixes mentioned so I can't guarantee they work.
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I've seen the cache buffer dialog before but can't find it right now. Maybe later I'll look again. Thanks. Also, going to check the BIOS, but I know the two fastest port port are 'hot-swap-able' and the rest are not, so not likely to help there but ya never know.
In "Bluetooth & other devices" I can eject all three active drives not counting any disk in the DVD-BR player or USB.
Thought I'd try the latest msVisual Studio, phssst. They can keep it, I'll go dig out one of my old installation disks.
The fact I can't get any real work done until I finish this is driving my nuts but I'm almost done. Desktop looks like an old xp box again LOL.
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I held off on a new work laptop because of 10. My 7 laptop battery finally gave up and IT wouldn't replace the battery, they made me take a 10 laptop.
I've been using ms windows since 98 and like 7 the best. I'd rather have 98 back over this steaming pile called windows 10.
The first thing I did was gag and remove cortana and spent the rest of the day removing all the other crap like edge. I've been using 10 for 2 months now...still not used to it and still hate it.
I hope they listen to my feedback and make 11 like 7.
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I hope they listen to my feedback and make 11 like 7.
Haven't you heard? There'll be no 11, like ever. Only new versions of 10.
Truth to be said, I was no fan of 10 when it came out and still am not and don't have it on any of our computers. However, having set up and tweaked numerous of systems having it, I must say it has become better, much better than what it was in the beginning. Some features are so intuitively good that I try to use them on Win7 systems as well. Right clicking the menu icon for a huge variety of functions is something they should have invented already for the service packs of Win95.
Then again, in Win10 they have changed the way of making a connection metered or unmetered in almost every version, yet the way Win8.1 does it is still the most intuitive: Right clicking the connection in the available networks list in the Notification area gives the opportunity to change the status. For a right clicker like myself that's the most obvious place to look at any available setting.
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Win10 has grown on me. Took a week before I got the window's title bar highlighted. For many "features" like white title bars on white windows, I kept asking myself, "Why?" :uhoh
Agree on the network connection observation. Unnecessarily convoluted, but on this desktop rig, it won't get in the way.
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Easycor I'm with you. Since switching from 7 to 10 a few weeks ago, I now find myself pretty comfortable doing whatever it is I need to get done. One thing that really improved my experience is adding Chrome as my browser. Edge is garbage...it reminds me of the tabloid rack at the airport with all it's useless graphics and ads.
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If you're not using Edge, go through the settings of it and try to make it not run in the background. Also make it automatically delete all history when closed to prevent it from using your disk space for unneeded crap. And disable Timeline and stop Activity History: https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/view-delete-windows-10-activity-history/ (https://www.makeuseof.com/tag/view-delete-windows-10-activity-history/)
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I just upgraded to an SSD last night and after looking into what it would take to whittle down my 1.5TB partition to fit on it, I decided to install fresh and figured it was as good a time as any to get on 10. It went very smoothly. In about an hour, I had everything on and working and was in AH. Only downside was I'm going to have to redo my joystick bindings because I'm guessing the device IDs were different on my old OS.
Not bad for a Sandy Bridge rig. I was able to find chipset drivers, but didn't have any luck with the Realtek drivers. My sound does seem to work fine though.
Wiley.
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Pull the previous stick settings from your old 1.5 TB drive. I'm surprised your head positions are working if you haven't already copied your settings folder over.
Same experience on my ASUS Sandybridge but it took over a week to customize the OS the way I wanted it, and still more time to find the sound settings to match applications to separate headsets etc.
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Oh I grabbed the entire folder. I was mildly surprised when my stick settings didn't work. I believe most likely the issue is it was looking for controller 0 on the previous OS and it's controller 1 on this one, or vice versa. Likely the pedals and joystick were in a different order in the device list. Not that big of a deal. Remapping will likely take less time than whatever I might have to do to change that around.
Wiley.
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@Wiley, did you try the Realtek driver site: https://www.realtek.com/en/component/zoo/category/pc-audio-codecs-high-definition-audio-codecs-software (https://www.realtek.com/en/component/zoo/category/pc-audio-codecs-high-definition-audio-codecs-software)? They ask for your e-mail, but knowing that is the "real" source I wouldn't worry about them sending you spam.
@Easyscor, I suppose many players feel no need to adjust the default head positions of the current version. Can't remember who it was but he did a very good job there.
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@Wiley, did you try the Realtek driver site: https://www.realtek.com/en/component/zoo/category/pc-audio-codecs-high-definition-audio-codecs-software (https://www.realtek.com/en/component/zoo/category/pc-audio-codecs-high-definition-audio-codecs-software)? They ask for your e-mail, but knowing that is the "real" source I wouldn't worry about them sending you spam.
@Easyscor, I suppose many players feel no need to adjust the default head positions of the current version. Can't remember who it was but he did a very good job there.
Possibly dumb question- what exactly is that? I always thought codecs were for playing different kinds of media, like in the backwhen you'd need to install the codec to be able to play different flavors of video or audio files. As far as I can tell my audio works fine, the only thing I kind of miss is the ability I had on Win7 I *think* it was stuff from Realtek that let me independently control the audio from different running windows to mute them if I'd alt-tabbed out for some reason, and control what my speaker setup was manually.
The reason I'm asking is I want to keep this install as clean as possible, only getting the stuff I actually want. My win7 got quite bloated over time, some of which was my fault.
Wiley.
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That's the Realtek HD audio driver. Don't know why they call it codec, maybe because that includes several sound systems. While installing it, I saw names like MAXX and Yamaha which led me think about MIDI and other music related things.
After having uninstalled the previous drivers and rebooted, Windows7 installed a generic HD audio driver from 2010. The downloaded one changed the name to Realtek HD Audio and is from 2017. The Realtek Control Manager is in the Program Files\Realtek\Audio folder but I can't get it to open. Sounds work, though, and the Windows tools even let you set the amount the channels, test them and even add the environment effects (sewer, bathroom and other echoing places).
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Thanks. Will check it out.
Wiley.
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so when yall say I should do a 'clean' install you want me to buy
a new drive, have a bootable USB, have my win7 key, and DL win 10. but what happens to my win7
drive, the one im using right now to talk and play on?
is it required during the clean install?
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so when yall say I should do a 'clean' install you want me to buy
a new drive, have a bootable USB, have my win7 key, and DL win 10. but what happens to my win7
drive, the one im using right now to talk and play on?
is it required during the clean install?
A clean install can be done on your old drive. In doing so you format/delete everything that is on that drive now and install windows like it was new.
If you want to keep files, pictures, and anything else.... you need to back them up to some other device. Everything on the drive will be cleared.
Once you have windows installed, you will have to reinstall all your programs and then move your files back onto the drive.
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so when yall say I should do a 'clean' install you want me to buy
a new drive, have a bootable USB, have my win7 key, and DL win 10. but what happens to my win7
drive, the one im using right now to talk and play on?
is it required during the clean install?
I did as you suggested and kept my Win7 harddrive because I didn't want to risk losing anything. I'm a chicken that way. I did dual boot using the bios shortcut key for awhile, because I wanted to become familiar with Win10 and put all my modifications in place before cutting the string with Win7. Also I kept Win7 for such things as email, firefox ect., until I had the programs running in Win10 with all the necessary settings and data files in place. You don't want to lose your bookmarks, address book or old emails.
I disconnected the Win7 drive for a couple of week but I'm about to reformat it now.
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so when yall say I should do a 'clean' install you want me to buy
a new drive, have a bootable USB, have my win7 key, and DL win 10. but what happens to my win7
drive, the one im using right now to talk and play on?
is it required during the clean install?
Shuffler and Easyscor pretty much nailed it. A clean install will wipe the hard disk so if you don't have another disk in your computer for storage or a large enough external one to keep your valuables, saving the Windows 7 disk is a valid option. Adding to that, hard disks don't last forever, in average we're talking about a few years according to statistics. So if your HDD already has some years behind it, the countdown has started. It may take years to fail, or it can fail tomorrow. It can well be used for duplicating your precious files for as long as it works, though. In any case I'd run the manufacturer's long test for it after everything has been double checked before putting it back to use.
Another thing to remember when doing a clean install in case you have another disk for storage: Disconnect all hard disks except the one you're going to install on! Windows installation makes a couple of system partitions and it's best to have them all on the same physical drive. I can tell by experience that having the system partition on another disk is a main PITA in case you need to do any maintenance!
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Good catch Bizman. I'd forgotten to mention that.
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ok, wasn't sure if using my win7 key to install win10 meant I needed the win7 drive connected during install.
I should have all win10 drivers handy for install.
im pretty sure my gtx1070 is compatible.
my asus P8Z77-V PRO is 7 yrs old tho :O
ethernet driver.
MB sound card driver.
any other drivers I need?
does the i5 cpu need a driver?
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No, you don't need a CPU driver.
Motherboard drivers are what you need to install first, starting from the chipset driver. Download them on a stick so you don't have to worry about potentially losing your connection to the Internet! Your motherboard fortunately supports Windows 10. Drivers here: https://www.asus.com/me-en/Motherboards/P8Z77V_PRO/HelpDesk_Download/ (https://www.asus.com/me-en/Motherboards/P8Z77V_PRO/HelpDesk_Download/). I suppose the Wi-Fi_Go utility isn't needed, leave that out.
At some point install the video card driver as well. Can't remember if you have an Nvidia card but if you do, do a custom install and opt out the HD audio and the 3D stuff. You basically need only the video driver.
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I don't need that VGA driver do I?
yea NVidia card.
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I don't need that VGA driver do I?
No, most likely the Nvidia card in the PCI-e slot will disable it so Windows won't see it all.
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I decided to go bareback. I used the link in the OP and just followed the instructions to upgrade. No attempt to charge me, settings saved, all progs work fine. I had originally used the free upgrade early on but reverted to 7 when I ran into problems. Evidently that left me eligible to do it free now. As I had hoped, enough bugs were worked out in the years since to make it seamless. Fact is, my programs are faster and graphics clearer than they were with 7. I suspect the associated programs had been geared to 10 and it left them weak in 7.
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A pet peeve:
To calibrate a joystick etc. in Win10, it's through the taskbar's "Show Hidden Icons". It's almost impossible to find the input devices through Settings.
Left click the little ^ symbol on the taskbar
Left click the USB icon, Safely Remove Hardware...
Left click Open Devices and Printers
The window shows the path as: Control Panel\Hardware and Sound\Devices and Printers
:cheers:
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A pet peeve:
To calibrate a joystick etc. in Win10, it's through the taskbar's "Show Hidden Icons". It's almost impossible to find the input devices through Settings.
Left click the little ^ symbol on the taskbar
Left click the USB icon, Safely Remove Hardware...
Left click Open Devices and Printers
The window shows the path as: Control Panel\Hardware and Sound\Devices and Printers
:cheers:
or.... left click the windows icon in the lower left corner, click on the settings icon, then type "device" in the search box. Select bluetooth and other devices.
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Back in the day we would do a fresh Windows install about every six months. It was annoying to have to reinstall all your other software but it made the thing run better.
I’m debating doing some sort of refresh on 10 to clean it up, but it will wind up an all-day slog. I don’t have the heart for it. Lol