Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: mikev on June 06, 2015, 06:06:06 PM
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parts on the way
Corsair Carbide Series Spec-02 Red Led Mid-tower Gaming Case
Intel Core i7-4790K Processor - Quad Core, 4.0GHz, 8MB Cache, Up to 4.40 GHz, 2 Memory Channels, 16 Max PCI Express Lane
Sea Sonic Electronics X-850(SS-850KM Active PFC F3) 850W 80 Plus Gold ATX12V/EPS12V Power Supply
MSI Z97-GAMING 5 Motherboard - ATX, Intel Z97 Express, LGA1150 Socket, 1600MHz DDR3, Gigabit Ethernet, 8-Channel HD Audi
Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO RR-212E-20PK-R2 Cooling Fan/Heatsink - 1 x 120 mm - 2000 rpm - Long Life Sleeve Bearing - So
CORSAIR Vengeance Pro 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1866 Desktop Memory Model CMY16GX3M2A1866C9R (Red)
EVGA GeForce GTX 980 Ti Superclocked Graphics Card 06G-P4-4992-KR
Samsung MZ-75E250B/AM 850 EVO Series 250GB 2.5" SATA III Solid State Drive
Western Digital Red NAS Hard Drive WD10EFRX 1TB IntelliPower 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive
Sony Optiarc High Speed DVD RW Drive 24X DVD+R 8X DVD+RW 12X DVD+R DL 24X DVD-R 6X DVD-RW 16X DVD-ROM 48X CD-R 32X CD-RW 48X CD-ROM Black SATA Model 5280S-CB-PLUS
Corsair Air Series CO-9050016-RLED 120mm Red LED Case Fan – Twin Pack Case Fans
Microsoft Windows 7 Professional with SP1 64-bit Operating System (PC)
total cost including shipping and tax 2017.98
all the parts are on the way so the mountain of boxes will be next . i also ordered a static wrist strap for assembly and have a ton of cable ties.
any feedback is welcome
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Absolutely nothing there that can really be criticized IMO. Nice build, good quality parts.
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Nice build.
Get out a drill, file set and possibly a dremel and spend time with the case, psu and components before you begin to get a clean, mostly wire free build. It could take as long as the rest of the build but you'll be glad you did it. Usually there's enough space between the motherboard tray and outside case panel to route wiring out of the way.
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Nice build.
Get out a drill, file set and possibly a dremel and spend time with the case, psu and components before you begin to get a clean, mostly wire free build. It could take as long as the rest of the build but you'll be glad you did it. Usually there's enough space between the motherboard tray and outside case panel to route wiring out of the way.
By the images I found in the 'net it looks like there's plenty of holes in the motherboard tray, so there's probably no need for modification. The PSU is also fully modular to eliminate unnecessary cables.
I'm curious: I understand the need of making holes into some cases for neater wiring, but what are you referring to by suggesting to "spend time with the --- psu and components" using a drill, file and a dremel? The only thing I could think of is using wire cutters for cutting off the extra connectors from the hdd and odd power cables.
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I'm curious: I understand the need of making holes into some cases for neater wiring, but what are you referring to by suggesting to "spend time with the --- psu and components" using a drill, file and a dremel?
The drill, files and dremel are for case modifications once you've laid out all the components and know where all the wiring needs to go.
I have a modular psu and had holes in my case but I still had to cut a slot up near the drive bays to feed the hard drives and gpu and drill a hole for my rear fan wiring. Just saying it's better to lay things out so you know where to drill than getting it wrong.
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Ah, OK. I understood you were suggesting drilling and dremeling the psu and other components, too, instead of only the case. Like shortening a long video card... Thanks for the clarification! :salute
For those who dare, here's a link to an ancient Swedish tech site, where I learned most of my case modding tricks: http://web.archive.org/web/20061012051854/http://www.datadocktorn.nu/us_desktop1.php (http://web.archive.org/web/20061012051854/http://www.datadocktorn.nu/us_desktop1.php)
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The drill, files and dremel are for case modifications once you've laid out all the components and know where all the wiring needs to go.
I have a modular psu and had holes in my case but I still had to cut a slot up near the drive bays to feed the hard drives and gpu and drill a hole for my rear fan wiring. Just saying it's better to lay things out so you know where to drill than getting it wrong.
If you need to start cutting holes to your case you bought a bad case. Check the reviews of Fractal Design R5 for example - you won't need to buy a dremel.
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Mikey,
Here are some hints I can give you..seeing the PSU and case... BTW you will love the flat cables...
1. Pre plan the cable runs, in other words place them where you think they would work. Then and only then zip tie them down. Zip ties are your friend.
2. Don't be afraid to cut the zip ties to add more cables to a bunch already tied down.
3. Start with 24 pin then vid card then 8 pin on MB then go to disc drive then to HD'd ... check recheck and triple check that everything is connected.
4. Test the fit of the back of the case when the cables are loose... if it fits with a little pressure it will fit with when everything is ties down.
5. Use only the cabling you are going to use. Too many cables resting on the bottom of the case doesn't look good.
6. Take your time and have fun when it gets built..
LawnDart
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Looks Great!!
That is almost an exact duplicate of what I just built, I think you will enjoy it. :rock
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Mikey,
Here are some hints I can give you..seeing the PSU and case... BTW you will love the flat cables...
1. Pre plan the cable runs, in other words place them where you think they would work. Then and only then zip tie them down. Zip ties are your friend.
2. Don't be afraid to cut the zip ties to add more cables to a bunch already tied down.
3. Start with 24 pin then vid card then 8 pin on MB then go to disc drive then to HD'd ... check recheck and triple check that everything is connected.
4. Test the fit of the back of the case when the cables are loose... if it fits with a little pressure it will fit with when everything is ties down.
5. Use only the cabling you are going to use. Too many cables resting on the bottom of the case doesn't look good.
6. Take your time and have fun when it gets built..
LawnDart
1 of the nice things about it is i have 6 different color ties to help sort and color code . the big issue for me will be recognizing which cables go to where, but time and pics i will put on this thread will give you guys a chance to assist me in my first complete build. thank you for all the input
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have an issue . apparently my MB has only 3 4 pin fan connections not counting the 2 cpu connections . the case comes with 2 fans and i ordered a twin pack of case fans leaving me with no place for the 4 th fan any ideas?
another issue is the 2 usb3 ports on the front of the case and only 1 usb 3 connection on the MB can i use this ?
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16815256001
Or something like this
http://www.moddiy.com/products/20%252dPin-USB-3.0-Internal-Header-Y-Splitter-Cable-%2812cm%29.html
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If you only use one CPU fan, you can use the other connector for a case fan. The motherboard can't see where the other fan is, it only sees it rotating.
If your motherboard doesn't have enough fan connectors, get a fan controller like these: Comparison for the five cheapest on Newegg (http://www.newegg.com/Product/Productcompare.aspx?Submit=ENE&N=-1&IsNodeId=1&Description=computer%20fan%20controller&bop=And&CompareItemList=-1|9SIA4SR1WU9430^A4SR_1_201408164005902%23%2C9SIA3XT1R66878^A3XT_1_20140626553072117%23%2C9SIA4SR1WT9376^A4SR_1_201408163968702%23%2C9SIA4SR1R81480^A4SR_1_20140704559129070%23%2C9SIA2970RX3972^A297_1_20130521143115966%23&percm=9SIA4SR1WU9430%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B9SIA3XT1R66878%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B9SIA4SR1WT9376%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B9SIA4SR1R81480%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24%3B9SIA2970RX3972%3A%24%24%24%24%24%24%24). Basically a three pin splitter cable would do the trick especially with identical fans, but since the fourth pin is for speed/noise controlling, a controller would do that, too.
As for the front panel USB 3 ports, you could use the item you linked, but you don't need it. The motherboard USB connectors are usually for two ports as is the case in JUSB-3, too. As the manual says: 6x USB 3.0 ports (4 ports on the back panel, 2 ports available through the internal USB 3.0 connectors). USB3 uses 10 pins compared to the 5 of USB2, so a 20 pin connector is for two cables (count the two empty pinholes as pins).
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lol Bizman what would i do with out you :salute . as you can see i do my homework making sure i have answers to anything i find . i have already downloaded the manual for the motherboard and the power supply . never thought to use the cpu #2 connector and figured the usb3 was for only 1 . (the supports 2) i figured meant you can use a splitter.
another thing i did was change the ram to a low profile ram due to the large cpu cooler. this way i have no fear of interference.
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233399
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Isn't there a printed booklet anymore with the motherboard? Plus a driver cd containing the same as pdf?
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yes there is i just downloaded it so i have a chance to see how the connections are setup and can be prepared for any possible problems before all the parts arrive.
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Ah! You haven't got the parts yet, now I understand the lack of material.
You'll soon notice that there's very few possibilities to connect anything wrong, at least in a way that can damage your components. I've once fried a Firewire connector by leaving a USB cable plugged. The customer had asked me to check the build before powering it, and since everything looked like being in the right place I pushed the button. Poof! And a little smoke. Fortunately the Firewire wasn't needed at all, so we both learned a lesson in a dramatic yet cost effective way. Always double check and RTFM.
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yup im hoping i dont have a cloud of smoke when im done hehehehe. the parts will start arriving by the end of the week with the last arriving the 18 th or 19 th. so i have lots of time to search for hidden issues. i added this part to solve the fan problem. http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16812423163
the good thing is its short and cheap and with my planned fans location will require a minimal amount of cable management
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Looks Great!!
That is almost an exact duplicate of what I just built, I think you will enjoy it. :rock
see you used the gaming 7 with pro vengeance ram .i switched to lp ram i should of asked you how well it fit under your cooler
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see you used the gaming 7 with pro vengeance ram .i switched to lp ram i should of asked you how well it fit under your cooler
No problem what so ever. :rock
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No problem what so ever. :rock
thats good i didnt want any tight squeezes... only problem i had was i had to get this from amazon due to shortage .
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233399&nm_mc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel&cm_mmc=TEMC-RMA-Approvel-_-Content-_-text-_-
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question what is a M.2 Onboard Connector and what do i do with it
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question what is a M.2 Onboard Connector and what do i do with it
M.2 connector enables you to install a small (physical size, not capacity) PCI-E SSD hard drive. It looks like this:
(http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/6/3/6372_01_samsung_sp941_512gb_m_2_pcie_ssd_review.jpg)
and it's much faster than a SATA connected SSD.
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M.2 connector enables you to install a small (physical size, not capacity) PCI-E SSD hard drive. It looks like this:
(http://imagescdn.tweaktown.com/content/6/3/6372_01_samsung_sp941_512gb_m_2_pcie_ssd_review.jpg)
and it's much faster than a SATA connected SSD.
ahhhhh thank you so it would just be an added HD not not something to need to connect to
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ahhhhh thank you so it would just be an added HD not not something to need to connect to
Well if you buy an M.2 drive then you need to connect it to the socket...
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ahhhhh thank you so it would just be an added HD not not something to need to connect to
Nothing to worry about. Supposedly you'll find some other connectors, too, without anything to connect to them. The crucial connectors are CPU fan, motherboard (2 connectors) and video card power, hard disk and optical drive power and data, and last but not least the power button connector of the case. Everything else is optional.
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well the next question i saw somewhere where you need to clear the CMOS before first boot. this involved the removal of the battery and jumping to points.not sure about this. im posting pics of the connections for the MB.
again Thank You all for your help on my first build. :salute
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/BOARD.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/LL.jpg)[/URL]
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I'm not sure if that were necessary. Then again, doing it won't do any harm and in case someone in the factory has changed the settings in an extraordinary way, it certainly will give you a clean start.
As the manual says: "You can clear the CMOS RAM by shorting this jumper while the system is off. Afterwards, open the jumper." I've learned to unplug the mains power cord from the power supply before clearing CMOS, which means you should be able to do it even right from the package. Simply connect the two pins of JBAT1 for a few seconds with some metallic item like a screwdriver. At first boot go to BIOS (press DEL at boot) and load the "Optimized settings". It's usually an option on the last page/tab along with "Save settings and exit".
Removing the battery is simply another way to do it in case there's no pins for clearing CMOS, or if the pins don't work.
Actually, I've never done the CMOS reset before first boot. The motherboard should be ready to use and if it isn't and fries due to that it should be a warranty issue. Modern motherboards won't boot if the settings are perfectly wrong and will revert to basic settings after a few unsuccesful boot attempts, allowing you to go to BIOS for changing your settings to functioning ones.
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Like Bizman said if it is your first boot, then you don't need to reset the CMOS. It is set up at the factory and is ready to rumble when you get it put together.
If I were you I would not worry about the BIOS till you get it up and running and have a chance to get it playing.
Have fun and don't worry and be patient.
LAwnDart
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I did NOT reset the CMOS before booting the new tower I have. Careful you don't fry the CMOS.
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you can all trust me on this and thanks for the warnings by the way . when i get this all assembled i will post pics . if i run into any issues i cannot find answers to via internet or you tube i hope you all continue to advise me. by the way i already received the case and the cpu cooler . the M B and cpu are coming from TigerDirect and they are slower then molasses in freezing weather. 1 week since i placed the order and still waiting for shipping tracking numbers. :bhead
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ahhhhhhhhh the big $$$ item has arrived
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-12%2016.50.19.jpg)[/URL]
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Very Nice!! :aok
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ha a bonus when i ordered my 16 gigs of ram Newegg was out of stock on my order from them but for some reason they shipped it as well . guess i will have 32 gigs of ram now
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ha a bonus when i ordered my 16 gigs of ram Newegg was out of stock on my order from them but for some reason they shipped it as well . guess i will have 32 gigs of ram now
Was it for free? If not, consider returning the second set because going from 16 gigs to 32 is not going to yield you much speed gains, if any in gaming use. You might actually experience stability problems if 32 gigs is already the max amount of supported ram for your motherboard.
Then again if you do rendering the ram won't hurt.
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unbelievable how weird this has been going.. i ordered 2 parts from tiger direct. 1 was shipped late the motherboard took a week and 1/2 i canceled that order but they shipped it anyways even after receiving my request for cancel and confirming it . which leaves me 2 choices 1 return it or refuse shipment or 2 keep it and use it as a in case backup if something is wrong with the other, then if not sell it.i may make a deal here with the 2 extra 16 gigs of ram if anybody is looking to build soon.
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OK ALL THE PARTS ARE HERE YEA!!! now time for assemble
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Good Luck.
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Good Luck.
hope i dont need luck ha ha .
day 1 of assemble went pretty easy . mounted the psu ,front fans, both storage drives and the optical drive. hooked up the power supply to all the drives .routed the cpu and 24 pin cables. finding out 1 nice thing about this case is i can hook up all these components and still have plenty of room for the MB install.
1 question is my case has standoffs for the MB will i need to expand on them or use the 1 s i have?
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Use the standoffs that came with your case because they should be of right height. If not, it'd be a warranty issue. Their purpose is to align the back plate with the motherboard. And of course provide some airflow under the motherboard alongside of keeping the solder joints off the metal of the case.
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the wires look a mess but this is only the beginning .will be getting some hospital powder free gloves to handle installing the cpu.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-17%2001.18.35.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-17%2001.18.54.jpg)[/URL]
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the wires look a mess but this is only the beginning .will be getting some hospital powder free gloves to handle installing the cpu.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-17%2001.18.35.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-17%2001.18.54.jpg)[/URL]
You don't need gloves, just hold it from the edges lol. You're not supposed to touch the contact sides at all.
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Looking good!!!! :aok
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You don't need gloves, just hold it from the edges lol. You're not supposed to touch the contact sides at all.
Actually using rubber gloves while installing the electrostatic sensitive components might even zap your build! The rule is to ground yourself at least to the case to even the potentials, either with a conductive wrist band or a sweaty hand. Rubber is well known to be an isolating material so you wouldn't be grounded if you used gloves.
Although sweat is a relatively good conductor because it's salty, it is also somewhat corrosive. So do as Rip said, hold stuff only by the edges to avoid poor contact due to corroded contact surfaces.
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a big thanks for the glove advice . i will use the the wrist strap i got .
next question that i been thinking about is drivers. wont i need to install the driver for the ssd prior to installing windows ? or should i install windows on the other 1 t drive ?
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You should install Windows on the SSD, otherwise you won't gain anything.
As for drivers for the SSD, you can't install anything before you have some kind of an operating system running. The first time to install any drivers would be during the Windows installation but I don't believe you'd have to do anything a this point. This advice should apply to any brand: http://ocz.com/consumer/ssd-guide/how-to-install-ssd (http://ocz.com/consumer/ssd-guide/how-to-install-ssd)
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You should install Windows on the SSD, otherwise you won't gain anything.
As for drivers for the SSD, you can't install anything before you have some kind of an operating system running. The first time to install any drivers would be during the Windows installation but I don't believe you'd have to do anything a this point. This advice should apply to any brand: http://ocz.com/consumer/ssd-guide/how-to-install-ssd (http://ocz.com/consumer/ssd-guide/how-to-install-ssd)
goes that mean i may have to do something like this?
http://www.askvg.com/how-to-change-sata-hard-disk-mode-from-ide-to-ahci-raid-in-bios-after-installing-windows/
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Hopefully not. As the title says, the advice is for changing hard disk mode after installing Windows. Ensure you're using AHCI mode before the installation by pressing DEL at startup. You should find what you need to check in the Settings section. Read the motherboard manual for help. Start with the defaults, explore the alternatives. Don't save any changes unless you think you know what you're doing.
Most likely you can't break anything with incorrect settings (except voltages) and you can always revert to factory defaults for a new start. Repetitive reinstalls will take a lot of time, though. And I mean days, even weeks. AHCI mode is basically the only thing you should check before installing Windows. The rest can be changed if needed, usually the motherboard recognizes the speed of the components by itself. Overclocking is a different animal, but there should be no need for that in the near future.
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Well assembly complete at least i hope so. have 1 issue with the cpu cooler . followed the instructions to the letter installed it but if you bump it it will twist . seems to have a tight hold on the cpu but with a small bit of force it will twist. i found this out putting in some of the harder to reach motherboard screws . in fact there is a small smear of my blood on some of the fins.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-18%2000.41.56.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/3.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/4.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/5.jpg)[/URL]
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the wires look a mess but this is only the beginning .will be getting some hospital powder free gloves to handle installing the cpu.
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-17%2001.18.35.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-17%2001.18.54.jpg)[/URL]
I am just curious about why spend so much on that puter but spend so little on that blender. that blender is like 10 bucks, pretty sure you could have researched it better and spend 50 or 60 bucks to buy a good quality blender that will help you enjoy that puter so much more. :uhoh
semp
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I am just curious about why spend so much on that puter but spend so little on that blender. that blender is like 10 bucks, pretty sure you could have researched it better and spend 50 or 60 bucks to buy a good quality blender that will help you enjoy that puter so much more. :uhoh
semp
hehehehe well you are right but that is not my blender. my co pilot needed 1 to make her ice cream sundaes . so guess i should of picked it out but she is the walmart shopper
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well tomorrow is first boot day unless i missed something. any tips on what to look for and what to do ?
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well tomorrow is first boot day unless i missed something. any tips on what to look for and what to do ?
unplug the blender first.
semp
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Turn your power supply to take air from below. That will keep it cooler. You already have a ton of exhaust fans. Just make sure you don't get anything to block the air intakes in the bottom. A raiser (stool) made of mesh or simply higher feet would help.
You might also want to change place of the top fan. Where it is now, it may either create a good fresh airflow for the CPU fan or it may direct the airflow to bypass the CPU fan. Explore! There's programs that tell the temperatures for several devices and also the rpm of the fans. So take a look at the CPU fan rpm and the CPU temperature, first with the top fan off, then with it on, then again off. Choose the option where the CPU keeps cool with the least rpm. Then do the same after moving the top fan to the other location in the rear.
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will look into the temps after i get it up and running besides the 2 front intake fans all other fans including the top are exhaust. im going to pray the psu does not overheat until i have a chance to see how the computer fits inside the glass door see pic . right now i just want to get it up and running . i have the program for temps plus i have this
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R_FYOo9Xq_Y
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-18%2012.36.12.jpg)[/URL]
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I can see the fans are exhaust ones. That's why I am sorta concerned: Does the airflow go out through the top fan or does it go through the CPU cooler. See, the two fans are competing about the air coming from below. Does the airflow continue directly out of the top or will it turn towards the rear? Supposedly it depends even on the temperature. Hot air tends to rise, cool might be better conducted.
Another thing: is the side of your cabinet open? If it isn't, get rid of the door or at least keep it open while gaming.
As for the CPU cooler, two things: 1) If you have thermal paste to spare, detach the cooler to see whether the paste has spread all over or not. 2) Modern processors will slow down if needed until a tolerable temperature has been achieved. They won't overheat easily. But in any case, recheck the seating of your CPU cooler. It shouldn't wobble. By looking at the pictures it seems it is fastened by 4 screws to a backplate, so it shouldn't wobble. The heat pipes may twist, though, but unless you twist them to the point the metal fatigues and breaks there should be no issues. The firm hold against the CPU you mentioned is the most important thing, seconded by not letting the coolant run off the heat pipes.
Oh wait! You were talking about the PSU, not the CPU. There's no real problem with the PSU fan facing upwards, getting the air from below just might keep it a little cooler, thus prolonging its life span. Also with the PSU fan facing downwards it won't compete with the GPU fan. Airflow again!
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OK moved the fan to the back took a bit to figure out how to BOOT up windows but it is up and running now cpu temps are about 82 f which is great . so whats next?
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-19%2000.07.15.jpg)[/URL]
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/temp.jpg)[/URL]
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OK moved the fan to the back took a bit to figure out how to BOOT up windows but it is up and running now cpu temps are about 82 f which is great . so whats next?
What's next? Let me see...
Hopefully you didn't install all the programs on the motherboard driver disk. Of course the drivers are needed, as well as the video card driver, but there usually is a bunch of "free utilities" that mostly only eat resources. Basically that means every program that has MSI in the name. Run LiveUpdate to install the newest drivers available for your motherboard, then either uninstall it or at least disable it from automatically starting and checking for updates. Check the settings for any program you have installed to disable them from automatically running and updating. Or find out how to easily shut them down before logging into the game. www.blackviper.com (http://www.blackviper.com) is a good source for getting the ultimate out of your system, but a basic approach is what I'd recommend at this point. You might want to let some programs update automatically, such as your anti-virus. My anti-virus is set to automatically update but I check for the updates manually every time before I log into AH just to make sure it doesn't do the update right during the biggest furball. I have also set Skype to start automatically just to make sure I don't forget to start it. Before gaming it's easy to shut down. Programs like Flash Player, Java, any media Player or Skype and its likes can be updated manually when needed without any major security risk. You can even set Windows Update to manual, but then you'd have to remember to check the updates monthly.
What next? Install AH and enjoy your new computer! :joystick:
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what is this mean was running my new computer then a pop up says windows will shut down in 10 mins then 10 mins later it shuts down and i have a screen saying windows is loading files and its been going on for 40 mins now. lucky i have my laptop available to find out why.
haha bizman you should of told me that about the drivers before i booted lol but i can remove them in fact i have on some already like norton and i used the removal tool as well to rid myself totally lol also some google apps and some goofy fast charger app i never had time for sound blaster because see above and its still says loading files ?????????? i did download the latest driver for the video card and thats was working well.
i did manage to register windows online and do a dx log and post it here in a different thread. my windows index rating was 7.8 .
well i was hoping i would have windows back by now but still says loading files ,by the way the loading bar filled up right from the start so why its taking so long i dont know
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There's 150 to 200 Windows updates after installing Windows 7 SP1. Some of them are quite large. It usually takes a full day to get all of them downloaded and installed. Windows 8.1 has roughly the same amount of updates. Patience, lad!
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OK if you say so but it is kinda strange . looks like i just installed windows
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/2015-06-19%2003.11.42.jpg)[/URL]
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well it is still going . said windows error when it went to the black screen so i will give it the night to figure itself out then i will try to reinstall windows tomorrow
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At this point it's still easy to redo everything and start from scratch, learning from the mistakes of the first run and not install Norton and other unnecessary crap.
For the reinstall:
1) Install Windows on the SSD (remember to check BIOS for AHCI mode)
2) Install motherboard drivers + LiveUpdate
3) Install video card drivers
4) Check that Windows Defender and Firewall are on
5) Connect to the Internet and run LiveUpdate, install the updates.
5.1) Check the bios version, you might want to flash it for better compatibility with your CPU http://www.msi.com/support/mb/Z97-GAMING-5.html#down-bios (http://www.msi.com/support/mb/Z97-GAMING-5.html#down-bios). It looks like you could use LiveUpdate to do that. CAUTION: Update the bios separately after having rebooted to finalize the installation of other updates!
6) Install a good anti-virus program (not Norton or McAfee). Nod32 by Es4et has been said to have the least affect to gaming.
7) Install your gaming gear :joystick:
8) Install AH :airplane:
9) Play :salute
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Caution updating bios - a lot of people have reported failures updating bios with liveupdate on MSI motherboards. Please google it and read about.
Also if you don't have an UPS battery backup, it's not a good idea to mess with the bios update in case the power glitches. You don't want to have a bricked motherboard.
Hold off on updating bios if it's not totally necessary.
Awesome build looks really cool. :aok
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this is the weirdest thing . as my head was spinning as to what to do.i decided to reinstall windows .ok so i reload the optical drive for first boot put the windows disc in .restarted .loads windows files the says starting windows then stops. lol i hit the reset button after 20 mins hit start windows normal and its magic it starts fine again. now the only issue i see is that my 1 t hard drive is not showing and everything i added so far is on the small drive . here is what i saw before the shutdown..
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/1111111111111111111111.jpg)[/URL]
now how do i get my hard drive working it shows up in the motherboard screen???
i wonder what is next as well . no more weird stuff
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this is weird also the other drive appears in the device manager
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/disc.jpg)[/URL]
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There's viruses causing that screen to appear. The message itself is a regular Windows message, intended to be used by a company administrator to inform users about some maintenance routine. Try a clean reinstall.
I tried to find a nice tutorial but they do things differently than I've learned, so:
Unplug from the Internet, if you got a virus that soon it might have come through during the installation process if your modem doesn't have a firewall! Boot your computer from the DVD. Choose "Install Windows", then choose "Custom". When you see the list of hard disks and partitions, choose "Advanced". Delete all partitions! Then choose the SSD as the disk you want to install Windows on. From here on just follow the instructions on the screen.
Hint: You can even unplug the 1TB drive to prevent accidentally installing onto it.
As for the 1 TB disk, if it shows during startup and in the bios, not to mention the Device Manager, it's there. Windows just doesn't know what to do with it. When you get Windows up and running, go to Disk Management to format it. http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/create-format-hard-disk-partition#create-format-hard-disk-partition=windows-7 (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/create-format-hard-disk-partition#create-format-hard-disk-partition=windows-7)
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does this look like the drivers i need
http://www.msi.com/support/mb/Z97-GAMING-5.html/#down-driver&Win7 64
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That's the page. The same drivers or their previous versions are on the cd that came with the motherboard. But of course it never hurts to skip the CD and download the newest ones e.g. on a memory stick with another computer instead of first installing older versions. The driver repository should be cleaner that way.
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oops i thought i had all the problems figured out but now i have the culprit. seems my new windows does not like my old external HDS when i plug them in it goes back to the loading windows files thing again . when i unplug them and restart windows works just fine . its got me wearing a hole in my head from scratching
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PM sent, but to help others suffering similar symptoms, one potential culprit is that USB hard disks are set before the SSD in the boot device order in bios. That can cause problems especially if there's another Windows installation on one of the disks. Changing the order and possibly disabling some devices in the list should help in such a case.
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OK these are just files of pictures videos and documents and music. most of it is data i save in case a recovery is needed. went into the bois page to switch around my start up devices and almost threw me into a oh shhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhheeeeeeeeeee eeettttttttt what did i do now. wish there was a video or something that would really explain to me what is what and what goes where . all i did was move my usb back away from the first boot and somehow changed the properties away from uf something or other. :bhead :bhead :bhead :bhead :bhead
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Remember that there's the "Reset to factory defaults and reboot" option.
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ahhhhhhhh the power of google search after all that i never thought it was this easy .1 google search solved this issue . here it is
http://helpdeskgeek.com/help-desk/unable-to-boot-windows-with-external-hard-drive-attached/
as you can see i now have 5 working HD S yeaa
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/HD.jpg)[/URL]
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Good find! Google is your friend, there's always someone having the same problems as you. :aok
As you noticed method 3 was what I suggested.
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Good find! Google is your friend, there's always someone having the same problems as you. :aok
As you noticed method 3 was what I suggested.
yup what a relief , now we both learned something. i also loaded the updater for the motherboard so i can get fresh drivers that i NEED not the junk . there was 1 called killer ethernet that i thought was junk NOT lost my internet connection when i deleted that 1 hehehe . so far the temps are normal at 28 c the nice thing is all the cores are the same temp within 1 or 2 degrees so the heatsink must of worked and the graphic card at 33 c so no over heating yet . i saw a video online that i will have to find again where you can raise the fan speed in the bios when it hits certain temps and make adjustments ..
thank you again for all you help sure made this project go a lot smoother
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Feel free to explore the bios to see and learn the adjustments you can do there. There's no risk as long as you don't save the unintentional changes you may make and even then it's easy to reset to factory defaults. Most often the default settings work best unless you're overclocking. Making fans raise their speed at lower than default temperatures sounds like a good idea, though. - I'm not so sure about videos, unless they are about the same model. The terminology can vary quite a lot between makers.
Even the MSI LiveUpdate can be junk, they really don't release new drivers very often. Disable it from running automatically, making a manual check and update semi-annually is enough.
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here is the video i was talking about i have all of these apps available there is some nice features .
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YI00xUU-Shk
i had to post this 1 for ya as well hehehehe
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TnyoJtv9Cx0
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Ooh! Beautiful! Water is the ultimate solution to get rid of excess paste! :rock
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well took the new tower out and ran it threw its paces this weekend. gave it a 48 hour run keeping track of the temps and performance . during game play fps stuck at 60 with no lag or hesitation with the update slider all the way to the left .flew into a eny bomber formation with about 40 planes with not a drop in fps . only problem was i got shot down ALL the time which is normal . but now i have the system and ready to go . a special Thank you to all the people who made this possible. Bizman , Mr ripley, jimmy3d , morfiend , ebfd11 ,and a bunch of others .. and to semp that blender still makes a great ice cream shake :cheers: :salute :bolt:
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temp check , look normal?? thought 120 seemed a bit high
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/Untitled.jpg)[/URL]
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temp check , look normal?? thought 120 seemed a bit high
(http://i237.photobucket.com/albums/ff115/MAVADAKIN_2007/Untitled.jpg)[/URL]
No. That's not bad. That's 50 C. Might be a little high if that's at idle but reasonably low if it's under load.
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these were temps after i played.
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Well if that was measuring your max temp while gaming it's perfectly fine.
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I see an old Motorola DVR on the tv
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I see an old Motorola DVR on the tv
lol meatwad you are correct had it since my cable was installed back in 2008 . and it still does a fine job recording while i fight airplanes .
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How much recording time do you get on it? If that is the same one since your install then you really should get it swapped for a newer one. Usually they been replaced with the Dcx-3501, yours is the DCH-3416 I believe and those have had pretty small HDD's in them
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ha meatwad you sound like someone with a lot of experience. lol i never asked if my service provider has an up grade .it can record about 8 full football games plus a bit more lol . more then enough for my uses . my service provider allows me to program and record from my phone as well so if im running late i can set it up to record simply by pushing an app on my phone and selecting the show or shows from the tv guide. a handy feature i can use anywhere with a internet connection or the att signal. :salute
i must of really been working the new computer today got the temps up to 67 c for the graphic card and mid 50s for the cpu. the computer has been running now for almost 2 full days non stop. the temps idle at around 30c so im good there
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Work as a tech for cable co, I hardly see the 3416 boxes from the warehouse anymore, now mostly the 3501 or the ones Pace has
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ha i see you from southern Illinois i have a daughter who lives in Carmi just was down there visiting and my sis lives in Rantoul.