Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: McShark on March 12, 2014, 09:24:52 AM
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I received my Warthog today.
What a load of buttons, axis and stuff to play with.
Has anyone basic settings / scripts available to find a starting point?
Is it recommended to map in TARGET or just use AH setup?
Thanks in advance for any advice / help.
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Is it recommended to map in TARGET or just use AH setup?
I use AH for my Warthog setup and it works just fine. I only use TARGET for games where I need to combine these into a single virtual joystick for older games that only recognize one controller.
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I use AH for my Warthog setup and it works just fine. I only use TARGET for games where I need to combine these into a single virtual joystick for older games that only recognize one controller.
Thx on that one. Going down that road as well right now.... calibrate windows and setup in AH.
No other games here so I really look for AH tips & tricks!
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Has anyone basic settings / scripts available to find a starting point?
Is it recommended to map in TARGET or just use AH setup?
Hi McShark, hope you are enjoying playing with your new Warthog! :)
I do all my key-mapping using the in-game setup. Here's what I have set on mine:
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t497/HelenLister/Aces%20High/ThrustmasterWarthogThrottleChart-AH_zpsbdefe0ed.jpg) (http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/HelenLister/media/Aces%20High/ThrustmasterWarthogThrottleChart-AH_zpsbdefe0ed.jpg.html)
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t497/HelenLister/Aces%20High/ThrustmasterWarthogJoystickChart-AH_zps07c25e2b.jpg) (http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/HelenLister/media/Aces%20High/ThrustmasterWarthogJoystickChart-AH_zps07c25e2b.jpg.html)
May give you a starting point anyway. :aok
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Hi McShark, hope you are enjoying playing with your new Warthog! :)
I do all my key-mapping using the in-game setup. Here's what I have set on mine:
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t497/HelenLister/Aces%20High/ThrustmasterWarthogThrottleChart-AH_zpsbdefe0ed.jpg) (http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/HelenLister/media/Aces%20High/ThrustmasterWarthogThrottleChart-AH_zpsbdefe0ed.jpg.html)
(http://i1062.photobucket.com/albums/t497/HelenLister/Aces%20High/ThrustmasterWarthogJoystickChart-AH_zps07c25e2b.jpg) (http://s1062.photobucket.com/user/HelenLister/media/Aces%20High/ThrustmasterWarthogJoystickChart-AH_zps07c25e2b.jpg.html)
May give you a starting point anyway. :aok
Hey Flossy,
Thank you very much. That looks good! I have most of the buttons set nowadays but not really perfect yet.....
A question regarding deadband and damping. The stick is insanely precise but I think I might have a bit of a bounce when opening fire. Morfiend gave me some advice which I am experimenting with but do you have had any similar issues with the Warthog and how did you solve them? I come from a CH Fighterstick for example, as far as I love the dual stage trigger, the forces are very high to my opinion and make it hard to hold your bullets on target. Any advice on that?
Thx again for the map, will see what I can make of it .... :salute :salute
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Flossy...where did you get the template for that button mapping image?
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While on the subject of the Warthog...what kind of rudder pedals are you all using? I have an old Cougar set-up/RCS all with Hall sensor upgrades. I am thinking of going to the Warthog since the gimbals on the Cougar wear out/get sloppy, but hate to give up my RCS hall sensor pedals.
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Hey Flossy,
Thank you very much. That looks good! I have most of the buttons set nowadays but not really perfect yet.....
A question regarding deadband and damping.
YW, McShark. Deadband/dampening is not something I have touched so far sorry so presumably they are at default values. Not noticed any problems, possibly because I mainly fly bombers. :salute
Flossy...where did you get the template for that button mapping image?
Googled it, Hoplite. :)
While on the subject of the Warthog...what kind of rudder pedals are you all using? I have an old Cougar set-up/RCS all with Hall sensor upgrades. I am thinking of going to the Warthog since the gimbals on the Cougar wear out/get sloppy, but hate to give up my RCS hall sensor pedals.
I'm using Saitek Pro rudder pedals. I had a Cougar myself and seem to remember there is a special connector on it that accepts analogue pedals (D type connector), however when Thrustmaster introduced the Warthog they dispensed with the analogue pedals idea and used separate USB connectors for throttle, joystick and any pedals you wish to use. If your RCS hall sensor pedals are USB, there shouldn't be a problem, otherwise if they are the old analogue type you will need some sort of analogue to USB convertor. Hope it all makes sense! :aok
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Thx Flossy, bit wizer now. Printed that map. Funny that you too have no real function for those fuel flow buttons :lol
HAs anyone here a Warthog scaling screeny and is willing to share?
Just wondering if it should be scaled at all or try to get used to it without?
Thx again for any replies, appreciate it!
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I use them for opening the bomb bay door,and dive flaps. I use the slider to the right of the throttle for manual trim and it is an analog like elevator or rudder.
I use the target software. Very powerful. What I suggest is set up in AH first then as time permits work on the Target version. If you don't start Target it uses the AH settings.
I use a modified scaling but the setting are so personalized, you are best served by experimenting.
Some of the other switches, tail hook, programmed setting for 200mph climb, auto climb, level.
Remember to set your GV-Boat. I also use a mode for bombers so my hat switch moves the gun positions and I have buttons to do a bomber auto calibrate for 3 seconds and 10 seconds duration.
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Thanks Flossy, I will factor in the price of a USB converter or new pedals. Does the Warthog seem to hold up better than the Cougar to justify the cost?
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While on the subject of the Warthog...what kind of rudder pedals are you all using? I have an old Cougar set-up/RCS all with Hall sensor upgrades. I am thinking of going to the Warthog since the gimbals on the Cougar wear out/get sloppy, but hate to give up my RCS hall sensor pedals.
Gameport or usb? I have found an offer for the RCS gameport version for € 30 ( $ 40 about) Think of buying them.
Any issues to be aware of?
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Googled it, Hoplite. :)
Found it that way as well. Thanks! :aok
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Gameport or usb? I have found an offer for the RCS gameport version for € 30 ( $ 40 about) Think of buying them.
Any issues to be aware of?
The RCS uses a gameport. I really like the pedal spacing and feel of the RCS compared to CH pedals, but you do not have toe brakes. The RCS does have issues with springs breaking (had to find an outside spring vendor to find replacement springs) and the stock pot does begin to spike. A Hall sensor upgrade (google Cubpilot) makes the pedals rock solid and I have not needed to calibrate them in years. I have seen some gameport to USB converters, but have also read that they have issues regarding accuracy. I still need to do more research. I am also modifying my Cougar gimbals using bearings that are designed for R/C micro-helicopters. I am hopeful this will eliminate any joystick slop and prevent further wear...time will tell.
My apologies for the thread hi-jack....Now back to the Warthog programing. :salute
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My apologies for the thread hi-jack....Now back to the Warthog programing. :salute
Thx on that, np my thread anyway :D
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The RCS uses a gameport. I really like the pedal spacing and feel of the RCS compared to CH pedals, but you do not have toe brakes. The RCS does have issues with springs breaking (had to find an outside spring vendor to find replacement springs) and the stock pot does begin to spike. A Hall sensor upgrade (google Cubpilot) makes the pedals rock solid and I have not needed to calibrate them in years. I have seen some gameport to USB converters, but have also read that they have issues regarding accuracy. I still need to do more research. I am also modifying my Cougar gimbals using bearings that are designed for R/C micro-helicopters. I am hopeful this will eliminate any joystick slop and prevent further wear...time will tell.
My apologies for the thread hi-jack....Now back to the Warthog programing. :salute
Converting an RCS to a USB capable rudder is pretty much child's play for someone with basic soldering skills and access to either an old USB joystick or a dedicated game board like those made by Leo Bodnar's bu0836, the U-HID, or even an Arduino UNO board (if you don't mind a little programming)!
The RCS is easy to mod because there are no toe-breaks, through I've seen plenty of mods to add those over the years:
(http://www.geocities.ws/jeolman1/rudderpedals32.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/OynHIqE.jpg)
The spring can be a problem...but there have been some creative solutions to that as well. Hydraulic pistons for the RCS:
(http://i.imgur.com/VDT1kAzh.jpg)
Where there is a will...there is a way! :aok
Sorry...didn't mean to hijack the detour of the thread! :D
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Thx Flossy, bit wizer now. Printed that map. Funny that you too have no real function for those fuel flow buttons :lol
OK McShark, YW. Yeah those two switches aren't in the best position for reaching, especially with the throttle all the way forward, so I've tended to mainly use switches nearer the front. At least they are spare if I need anymore functions to map. :)
Thanks Flossy, I will factor in the price of a USB converter or new pedals. Does the Warthog seem to hold up better than the Cougar to justify the cost?
The Warthog is a massive improvement on the Cougar. Instead of pots which are prone to wear and tear it has Hall Effect AccuRate Technology using 3D magnetic sensors that don't wear or get noisy over time.
Found it that way as well. Thanks! :aok
:aok
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The Warthog is a massive improvement on the Cougar. Instead of pots which are prone to wear and tear it has Hall Effect AccuRate Technology using 3D magnetic sensors that don't wear or get noisy over time.
:aok
I agree about the Cougar pots. I upgraded my Cougar pots to Hall sensors a couple years ago and it was worth every penny. My only issue with the Cougar now, is that the gimbals are made of aluminum and the pivot points for the elevator axis begins to elongate over time. This results in 1/2 to 1 inch free play. I have drilled out these pivot points and installed the R/C micro helicopter bearings. Hopefully this will eliminate the problem of wear or at least make it easy to occasionally remedy the problem by a simple bearing replacement costing about $5.
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Nice! I looked at them but wow are they expensive.
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Thx on all the hints and tips.
Getback, yes, very expensive toy. But worth every dime.
For anyone who is still scaling / tweaking his setup:
I have a pretty old mouse. It still is driven by a ball inside. So scaling, changing convergence and so on was usually a major PITA. Convergence 325? Not with my mouse. 300 yes, 350, 375 275 but 325? No sir.... :furious :bhead :furious Same with the stick scale. I want to raise just a tad... boingk.... 2 inches added.... :mad: :bhead :mad:
You can go into settings, find your stick jsm file and edit the scale figures by editing the numbers... 3 decimals :O including damping and deadzone :O
Which means also you don''t need to ask anyone for a screeny of their scale... just ask for de jsm digits..... great reference for starters...
Who might have this sort of issues as well...
:salute
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most fighter pilots should use scaling on elevator, else you are over-correcting very easy