Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: fudgums on April 07, 2019, 06:07:24 PM
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I had a great computer that was built by a Former AH player who had their own business. Mind you that this was nearly 10 years ago now and the world has changed drastically...especially in the technology world.
Last year had a problem where the hard drive failed then in transportation took more damage(should've had better judgement). After trying to figure out which way to get back to having a desktop PC, it came down to fixing the computer that I have; which would would have been $500+ for an outdated computer that would more than likely struggle with games today.
The question is, what direction should I go? It's been years since I dug into a desktop and haven't looked into it for a long time.
Should I go through a company and have one built, I could build my own but that is a making for a disaster but we all have to grow up eventually.
Thanks fellas.
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Building your own these days is actually pretty simple. Muh easier than years ago!
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One of the things is that I don't want to splash the cash on something then two years from now it will be completely obsolete.
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I like Superbiiz.com. You can select what parts you want, they will build it for you, install the OS, and give you a 1-year warranty. You can also use their "system builder" tool to pick things and have them build it, but the system builder tool has fewer options to pick from than their whole inventory.
And superbiiz.com is very cheap.
I have been making AH computers for about $350 for the computer + $100 for Windows + $140 for the graphics card + $100 for the monitor. They are fine for me, but I do basic 1080p 60 Hz monitors, not VR, 4k, or 144 Hz.
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My $600-ish computer setups tend to last me about 5 years each before I buy another.
But I use it pretty much only for AH and not any other games.
Fudgums, are you using it for any games other than AH?
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I'd love to get back into AH, but the newest version of Steel Division really peaked my interest, which has opened up the possibilities of other games.
Mind you, I'm illiterate in the what is good and not good with the new stuff(VR, 4k, 144). So it probably isn't big deal for me.
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These guys are really good, https://www.digitalstorm.com/desktops.asp Pick your price range and they do the rest, need a bit more, add it and they will install it and test run it. Their service is top notch..... tho of the number of people I know who have bought from them only one needed help.
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It looks like both the minimum the recommended requirements for Steel Division 2 are one step higher than those for AH. 12 GB of RAM and a GeForce GTX 970 or higher (meaning GTX 1070/1080 or RTX 2070/1080 from what's available at the moment). The latter is what makes your needs more expensive than what you'd need for AH only. If you're thinking about VR, 4K or 144 Hz instead of 1080p or 1440p @ 60 Hz then it's definitely the '80 series you'd need.
Letting a company build it from the parts you've chosen is the best option as you'll get warranty for the build itself as well as for the components. I'd recommend sending the parts list here for evaluating, the combined knowledge of the community can quickly find any potential weakness in the plan.
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Here is what you can get on Superbiiz.com for $537
Cougar MX330 No Power Supply ATX Mid Tower
Intel Core i5-7500 Kaby Lake Processor 3.4GHz 8.0GT/s 6MB LGA 1151 CPU, Retail
GIGABYTE B360M DS3H LGA1151/ Intel B360/ DDR4/ SATA3&USB3.1/ M.2/ A&GbE/ MicroATX Motherboard
Antec Basiq VP-450 450W ATX12V v2.3 Power Supply
Microsoft Windows 10 Home Operating System 64-bit English (1-Pack), OEM
If you want to run Steel Division 2, I'd add at least a $250 graphics card (such as a GTX 1060).
If you want a GTX 1070, that is $450.
I'd go for just $100 1080p monitor (such as a $100 Sceptre E248W).
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I appreciate it fellas, working on putting some things together and posting later.
Few questions.
Minimum of 12GB Ram(especially for Steel Division) or is that too much?
GB NVIDIA GeForce GTX 670 is not as good as a GTX 1060 or 1070 right?
Should I get an HDD?(What is an HDD)
What's a fine line to work to between not over spending and being obsolete in a few years and spending enough to be competitive for five or more?
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8GB is pretty much the standard for RAM now...it's enough to power through pretty much anything, but if an upgrade to 16GB is available and you can swing it it'll never hurt.
The 670 is a few generations old so definitely go with a 1070 or a 1060 if you can (make sure the 1060 is a 6GB version, they come in 3 and 6).
A system like you're talking will be good for quite a while. I still use a GTX 970 which is now over 4 years old and doesn't struggle with any game I play.
SSD vs HDD is solid state drive versus a platter disk. Solid state is great for Windows and games that require a lot of loading (such as DCS). They use flash memory and have no mechanical parts in them. Hard drives are your typical platter drive and are generally slower, but are cheaper for more space. Generally people these days will get an SSD in the 120-500gb range and have a separate "storage" hard drive (since many games these days are huge (50gb+), a drive like that helps).
Building your own used to be much cheaper but companies that build them have gotten more competitive over recent years, so depending on the deal you get it could be a wash.
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I'm looking more at your interest into Steel Division since it's requires more than AH.
That said, 16 GB isn't overkill and the price of RAM isn't too high so that's what I'd take. Often the upper mid speed range RAM is the cheapest.
You're right in that the GTX 670 is weaker than 1060. As you may have learned, the "hundreds" (also as in "ten/twenty hundreds") tell the generation and the "tens" the relative performance level in that generation. Based on benchmarks, the 670 is on par with 760 and 950 and 1050 Ti so every card past those is an improvement. As a medium budget card the GTX 1660 (Ti) looks interesting for your needs! Just learned they exist!
Spikes said almost everything about HDD's and SSD's. One thing to add is that a HDD suits better for AH because of the way SSD's handle updates. But as he said, having a fast SSD for Windows and some games and a HDD for storage and some other games is a valid option. The prices of smaller SSD's have come down quite a lot.
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Intel Core i5-7500 Kaby Lake Processor 3.4GHz 8.0GT/s 6MB LGA 1151 CPU, Retail
GIGABYTE B360M DS3H LGA1151/ Intel B360/ DDR4/ SATA3&USB3.1/ M.2/ A&GbE/
Word of caution. Intel 300 series chipsets are not backward compatible with Kaby Lake (and earlier) CPUs. Neither are Coffee Lake CPUs compatible with 200 series chipsets.
Out of the box, 300 series motherboards are compatible with 8th gen (Coffee Lake) CPUs. In many cases BIOS update is required for 9th gen CPUs.
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8GB is pretty much the standard for RAM now...it's enough to power through pretty much anything, but if an upgrade to 16GB is available and you can swing it it'll never hurt.
The 670 is a few generations old so definitely go with a 1070 or a 1060 if you can (make sure the 1060 is a 6GB version, they come in 3 and 6).
A system like you're talking will be good for quite a while. I still use a GTX 970 which is now over 4 years old and doesn't struggle with any game I play.
SSD vs HDD is solid state drive versus a platter disk. Solid state is great for Windows and games that require a lot of loading (such as DCS). They use flash memory and have no mechanical parts in them. Hard drives are your typical platter drive and are generally slower, but are cheaper for more space. Generally people these days will get an SSD in the 120-500gb range and have a separate "storage" hard drive (since many games these days are huge (50gb+), a drive like that helps).
Building your own used to be much cheaper but companies that build them have gotten more competitive over recent years, so depending on the deal you get it could be a wash.
So with the SSD, I could get one and go a little lighter on the HD? Might try to swing a 16GB Ram, would I just buy two 2 8G ones?
PS what's up man? lol
I'm looking more at your interest into Steel Division since it's requires more than AH.
That said, 16 GB isn't overkill and the price of RAM isn't too high so that's what I'd take. Often the upper mid speed range RAM is the cheapest.
You're right in that the GTX 670 is weaker than 1060. As you may have learned, the "hundreds" (also as in "ten/twenty hundreds") tell the generation and the "tens" the relative performance level in that generation. Based on benchmarks, the 670 is on par with 760 and 950 and 1050 Ti so every card past those is an improvement. As a medium budget card the GTX 1660 (Ti) looks interesting for your needs! Just learned they exist!
Spikes said almost everything about HDD's and SSD's. One thing to add is that a HDD suits better for AH because of the way SSD's handle updates. But as he said, having a fast SSD for Windows and some games and a HDD for storage and some other games is a valid option. The prices of smaller SSD's have come down quite a lot.
So while the 1060 is legit, the 1660 is nearly the same one? I might've missed understood that.
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no need to buy a case, he already has one. some other components might be usable. didnt see which ps he has but it might still work.
semp
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So with the SSD, I could get one and go a little lighter on the HD? Might try to swing a 16GB Ram, would I just buy two 2 8G ones?
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So while the 1060 is legit, the 1660 is nearly the same one? I might've missed understood that.
For RAM, going in pairs is a good choice for getting the best use of Dual Channel technology (I know there's Triple Channel, but it's rare), meaning the system can write to one stick while reading another. Also less sticks can be a little faster than more so 2 x 8 GB is the best option for 16 GB.
The 1660 is way better than 1060 especially in new games. The main difference is the architecture: The 1060 is Pascal, the 1660 Turing, the latter being more capable in advanced graphics. According to Nvidia, the 1660 is in par with 1070! I'm starting to get an itch for getting a 1660 for my new rig which I may have to build when the support for Windows 7 ends...
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I'm seeing quite a bit of buzz on the new GTX 1660 & 1660Ti cards. Increased performance (vs 1070's) at a lower price point....what's not to love? The 1660's start around $230. Add another $40 for the Ti. From where I stand a dual fan 6 GB GTX 1660Ti for under $280 seems like a no brainer.
Bizman, your thoughts? MCI vs EVGA? Single fan vs dual fan? Anything else to consider?
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So with the SSD, I could get one and go a little lighter on the HD? Might try to swing a 16GB Ram, would I just buy two 2 8G ones?
PS what's up man? lol
Long time no see. :)
Yep you'd do 2x8GB sticks, then there's the possibility of upgrading even more if a good deal comes up or something.
Depending on how much space you need, you can probably do a ~250gb SSD and a 1TB HDD or something along those lines. That would allow you to have a few games on the SSD if you so choose.
I forgot they released the mid-range Ti cards, they look like great deals for the performance.
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My thoughts? Well, I have access to all the same sites as the rest of you. I don't own one (yet) but as has been said the price tag vs. performance is tempting.
Over the years I have developed one rule about brands: Only buy those you're familiar with. The big names have more to lose if they launch a lemon. Asus, Evga, Gigabyte, MSI... If in doubt try to find a review or a geek forum user thread about the brand and model you're looking at. For example, a local dealer has both Palit and KF2 and the comments I found disliked the former, whereas the latter seems to be of decent quality. A base plate often is a sign of a better quality card but especially with the smaller versions it may not add that much extra.
The support and warranty policies here are different to those in the US so you'll have to weigh them by yourself.
About fans, the more and the bigger they are the more silent the card should be. Also, if some model claims to be ## % cooler and quieter than the reference model, that is a good sign in my eyes.
Anything else? The 1660 comes in various sizes to fit all possible systems. And if you think you might benefit from the ray tracing technology of the RTX cards, Nvidia recently enabled that for 1660 Ti as well, making it even more tempting than the RTX 2060.
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I've gone with Gigabyte myself in the past for cards...EVGA always has the best warranty it seems. I like triple fan cards but dual fans will do the trick. The blower style ones are a bit louder generally, but they help with airflow if you're into that.
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Playing with the other companies you guys mentioned. Here's one from cyberpowerpc for around $900. A little much than I was shooting for but.
Message : GAMER XTREME ET9996 + FREE Shipping + Next Day Rush
Gaming Chassis : CYBERPOWERPC ELUNA 241V Premium RGB Gaming Case Mid-Tower w/ Tempered Glass Window Panel (Included)
Lighting : ARGB COLOR LED STRIP ONLY MUST FAN CONTROL (Included)
Extra Case Fans : 3X 120mm CyberPowerPC 120mm Addressable RGB 1200RPM Fans w/ Hub + Remote Controller (Included)
CPU : Intelฎ Core Processor i5-9400F 2.90GHZ 9MB Intel Smart Cache LGA1151 (Included)
CPU / Processor Cooling Fan : INTEL BRAND LGA 1156 (S) CPU FAN 65W (Included)
Motherboard : MSI B360M BAZOOKA INTEL MATX LGA 1151 (Included)
RAM / System Memory : ADATA XPG Z1 8GB DDR4/3000MHz MEMORY (Included)
Video Card : GeForceฎ GTX 1060 3GB GDDR5 (Pascal)[VR Ready] (Included)
Power Supply : 600 Watts - Thermaltake SMART series 600Watts 80 Plus Gold high-efficient Power Supply (Included)
Primary Hard Drive : 240GB WD GREEN SSD 2.5" SATAIII 6.0 GB/s SSD (Included)
Secondary Hard Drive : 1TB WD CAVIAR BLUE HDD 3.5" SATAIII 7200RPM 6.0 GB/s (Included)
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The power supply is built by HEC or CWT and has got mixed reviews so changing that might be recommendable.
Based on what has been said on this thread, this systems seems to be a tad underpowered most everywhere. The CPU is below 3 GHz, the RAM is only 8 GB and the GPU is the lower 3 GB version of GTX1060.
Another thing is that if you don't really need fancy lights why pay for them.
For some reason I can't customize the build on the Cyberpower site to see how much the changes would affect the price.
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Fudgums, another possibility is using pcpartpicker.com. There you'll find "how to" guides, various completed builds and individual components that are presented as per compatibility with other parts. You'll also get pricing, pricing alerts and more. Even a dummy like me was able to build a fully customized desktop using this website. :old:
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I thought the same, I was just looking at it for a starting spot then moving forward.
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CPU
Intel - Core i7-6700K 4 GHz Quad-Core Processor
CPU Cooler
Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooleer
Motherboard
Asus - Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory
Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2133 Memory
Storage
SanDisk - SSD PLUS 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Seagate - BarraCuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card
Asus - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB Dual Video Card
Case NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply
Corsair - RMx 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Case Fan
ARCTIC - Arctic F12 74 CFM 120mm Fan
ARCTIC - Arctic F12 74 CFM 120mm Fan
Might be pushing the price a little bit but moving in a direction. Been looking at builds at pcpartpicker.
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That looks more like it. I was going to suggest an i5 processor but the i7-6700K is only $5 - $50 more expensive than the i5 variants so it's well worth the price.
Another thing is the RAM you've chosen. Why take the slow 2133 when you can get much faster for about the same price?
Same goes for the video card, adding a couple of tenners would give you the much faster 1660.
And the power supply... Although your choice has got quite good reviews and Corsair engineers help design them for Channel Well Technology to build, you can get a known-reliable Seasonic for the same price.
For the hard disks, I'd pay some attention to the 1 TB HDD. Your description didn't tell which version of Seagate it is, but so you know there's a large variety intended for different uses. Obviously you'd want one that is designed for 24/7 heavy use. Someone with more knowledge about the models should chime in and tell which one is the best. I'd also take a 240 GB SSD just in case, they're not that expensive any more. https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QngzK8/adata-ultimate-su650-240-gb-25-solid-state-drive-asu650ss-240gt-r (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/QngzK8/adata-ultimate-su650-240-gb-25-solid-state-drive-asu650ss-240gt-r) is at the same price range and they have good reviews.
Here's the parts I picked to modify yours (It's the "T" in the Markup bar right above your build list that gives a list like this):
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PZ9RdX (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PZ9RdX)
CPU: Intel - Core i7-6700K 4 GHz Quad-Core Processor ($307.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($29.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: Asus - Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 Memory ($96.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: SanDisk - SSD PLUS 120 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($27.95 @ Amazon)
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($38.69 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB Phoenix Fan Video Card ($223.98 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic - PRIME Gold 650 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $815.38
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-11 02:45 EDT-0400
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Like the look of it, a recommendation of a monitor? I believe the one that I have is outdated at the moment as well.
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Monitors don't get old that fast. What's the type, size and resolution you're having now?
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why do you want to buy (far) outdated stuff ?
CPU is three generations behind the current ones
Cooler is mediocre at best
memory is nonsense, get them as 3200 or the 3000 Aegis
SSD/HDD too small + SSD is cacheless so even slower than other 120GB.
As SSD get one of the two sisters WD Blue 3D/Sandisk Ultra 3D or MX500, 860 EVO with 250GB minimum
as HDD look for 2TB or larger + 5400rpm drivers are typically quieter then 7200rpm ones
with the listet equipment a 650W Powersupply is far overdosed - even 500-550W has lots of headroom for possible upgrades
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why do you want to buy (far) outdated stuff ?
CPU is three generations behind the current ones
Cooler is mediocre at best
memory is nonsense, get them as 3200 or the 3000 Aegis
SSD/HDD too small + SSD is cacheless so even slower than other 120GB.
As SSD get one of the two sisters WD Blue 3D/Sandisk Ultra 3D or MX500, 860 EVO with 250GB minimum
as HDD look for 2TB or larger + 5400rpm drivers are typically quieter then 7200rpm ones
with the listet equipment a 650W Powersupply is far overdosed - even 500-550W has lots of headroom for possible upgrades
Are you replying to Bizman?
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Another thing is the RAM you've chosen. Why take the slow 2133 when you can get much faster for about the same price?
Current default SPD for DDR4 is 2133 (1066), so even if you use higher rated DDR4, it will still run at 2133 unless you overclock memory, either manually or via embedded XMP profiles (if your motherboard allows it).
If you overclock your memory and with so many different CPU/Memory/Motherboard combinations, you need to thoroughly test it and see if it runs stable.
Now, Intel CPUs these days come with IMC (as do AMD) and running RAM at higher frequency requires rising the voltage for VCC-SA and VCC-IO which can exceed Intel safe VCC SA/IO voltages. That too can lead to unstable system, or in worse case, kill IMC (integrated memory controller).
Also, in real life usage, there is no significant performance gain if you run memory at clocks higher than default 2133 unless you're using integrated GPU which uses RAM instead of dedicated VRAM.
As in case of G.Skill - Ripjaws V 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3600 vs Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2133,
if you're not going to overclock RAM, Corsair will be faster at default 2133 simply because of lower CAS (15 vs 19).
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2bighorn, if I've understood correctly what I've read, RAM speed isn't solely about latency. I've seen several ways to calculate a comparable digit but since I can't remember any of them I googled and this is what I found: https://notkyon.moe/ram-latency.htm (https://notkyon.moe/ram-latency.htm). According to that there's a significant difference with 3600/19 and 2133/15, 10.56 vs. 14.06 ns.
I won't argue about the default SPD since my knowledge about it is weak. You're also right in saying that the speed of RAM doesn't matter much.
What I do know for sure is that underclocking RAM allows for lowering the CAS latency so the higher speed RAM may be faster even at 2133.
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With some consulting, here's what I am at right now.
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JPqQ4q
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JPqQ4q/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: GeIL - EVO SPEAR 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Intel - 660p Series 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($65.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master - MWE Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ B&H)
Total: $720.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-13 11:36 EDT-0400
Should I get a hard drive or is the SSD fine?
PS.
Looking to sell my old PC too, if I remove the old hard drive, there won't be any trace of what was on it like personal information.
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With some consulting, here's what I am at right now.
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JPqQ4q
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/JPqQ4q/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($189.89 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: GeIL - EVO SPEAR 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Intel - 660p Series 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($65.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.99 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: Cooler Master - MWE Gold 750 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($64.99 @ B&H)
Total: $720.74
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-13 11:36 EDT-0400
Should I get a hard drive or is the SSD fine?
PS.
Looking to sell my old PC too, if I remove the old hard drive, there won't be any trace of what was on it like personal information.
I would get a small SSD for your OS only and HDD for any games.
Coogan
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Don't skimp on the power supply! It's the most crucial part of your system and if it fails it can break every other component in the worst case. I didn't read much at https://www.overclockers.com/cooler-master-mwe-gold-750-power-supply-review/ (https://www.overclockers.com/cooler-master-mwe-gold-750-power-supply-review/) to find out that your choice looks like a firecracker!
The 1660 doesn't need much power so much less than 750 W is required (note that too much extra power can cause issues) so in that price and feature category this looks like the best choice: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bkp323/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fx (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bkp323/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fx).
And yes, if you take the HDD out there's no way to find out what you have done with your old PC. Also, if the HDD is in good condition you can use it in your new build for AH and other games that work better on a HDD than an SSD. The Intel 512 GB SSD is so cheap that I can't justify getting a smaller one to save $20 or so. But as Coogan said, a HDD is good for (many) games.
Other than the power supply it looks like a serious cost effective gamer.
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Don't skimp on the power supply! It's the most crucial part of your system and if it fails it can break every other component in the worst case. I didn't read much at https://www.overclockers.com/cooler-master-mwe-gold-750-power-supply-review/ (https://www.overclockers.com/cooler-master-mwe-gold-750-power-supply-review/) to find out that your choice looks like a firecracker!
The 1660 doesn't need much power so much less than 750 W is required (note that too much extra power can cause issues) so in that price and feature category this looks like the best choice: https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bkp323/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fx (https://pcpartpicker.com/product/bkp323/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-550w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-550fx).
And yes, if you take the HDD out there's no way to find out what you have done with your old PC. Also, if the HDD is in good condition you can use it in your new build for AH and other games that work better on a HDD than an SSD. The Intel 512 GB SSD is so cheap that I can't justify getting a smaller one to save $20 or so. But as Coogan said, a HDD is good for (many) games.
Other than the power supply it looks like a serious cost effective gamer.
I should have stated 'many' games instead of 'any'. Some games do perform better on a SSD.
Coogan
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Next to do would be:
1. Find a reliable power supply that wouldn't overpower the system.
2. Add a cheap but solid HDD(The one in my old build is dead) and keep the 512 GB SSD that I already have on the parts list.
Also, the monitor I have with my old build is a AOC E2250Swdn. Seems dated and the picture seems alright, the prices also seem a lot more expensive now than when I bought it years ago. Good idea to just keep it and roll or sell it and get a different one that's more suited for this build.
Many thanks fellas.
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The monitor you have is good enough unless you want a larger one. After all it's a full HD 1080p which is the current mainstream.
For the Power supply, the Seasonic I recommended is both inexpensive and of good quality, and it has enough power for some upgrades as well.
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2bighorn, if I've understood correctly what I've read, RAM speed isn't solely about latency. I've seen several ways to calculate a comparable digit but since I can't remember any of them I googled and this is what I found: https://notkyon.moe/ram-latency.htm (https://notkyon.moe/ram-latency.htm). According to that there's a significant difference with 3600/19 and 2133/15, 10.56 vs. 14.06 ns.
I won't argue about the default SPD since my knowledge about it is weak. You're also right in saying that the speed of RAM doesn't matter much.
What I do know for sure is that underclocking RAM allows for lowering the CAS latency so the higher speed RAM may be faster even at 2133.
Bizman, what I was trying to say is that if you buy higher rated memory and just install it into your motherboard, it will run at JEDEC specified SPD profile which is currently at 2133.
If you want higher speed out of your memory, you have to explicitly set it in your UEFI/BIOS, either manually (timings and voltages) or with embedded XMP profiles.
When you do that, integrated memory controller (resides within your CPU package) will run at higher command rate as well (in this case 1800 MHz vs stock 1066 MHz), which means motherboard has to deliver higher voltages to VCC-SA (1.05V default) and VCC-IO (0.95V default) and shouldn't exceed safe voltages for that particular CPU as specified by Intel, which, in case of Coffee Lake is 1.25V (VCC-SA) and 1.20V (VCC-IO) respectively (VCore gets increase too since ratio should remain similar, but that's another story)
Since each motherboard/CPU combo differs it's impossible to test every combination, hence memory manufactures specify on which motherboards XMP profiles were tested on. If you use any other combination, you have to test it yourself and see at which command rate, timings and voltages you get stable results without exceeding safe voltages. And even if you are within limit but close at, you will most likely shorten the life of IMC considerably.
So, what are the benefits of running memory at higher command rate?
Increased memory bandwidth which looks good in some benchmarks but you don't really need it.
Slightly lower latency which is mostly negated by how internal memory caching works.
Better balanced system if you are significantly overclocking your CPU and GPU (mostly applies to extreme overclockers).
Slightly higher frame rate if you're using internal GPU (bellow 10% in average at 3600, and the reason why Intel likes to advertise XMP).
Higher speed rated memory has usually better silicon (product binning) but doesn't apply to all brands.
Negatives:
Higher $$
XMP does not guarantee stability unless you're using same components as memory manufacturer was using for testing, and even if you do, silicon is not silicon in many cases.
Almost no performance gain in real life usage. Gaming (with discrete GPU) performance increase is nearly non-existent. Maybe 1, 2 FPS, rarely more than that, most of the time less than a single frame.
Overclocking reduces the life of components.
If you really need to increase performance without shelling out extra $$, go for CPU and GPU overclocking. Performance gain will actually be measurable, and in most cases it's much safer because you'll probably hit thermal limits before voltage limits.
Memory overclocking is exactly the opposite. No real gain for a lot more $$.
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Thanks for the explanation :salute.
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I have a 1 TB SSD. I run Win 10 Pro along with Autocad Inventor, Gibbscam, Trump TruTops Inch. Runs nicely with these programs.
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Storage: Intel - 660p Series 512 GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive ($65.89 @ OutletPC)
Actually a bad choice - although advertize with great big numbers for transfer speed this will drop down significantly after a short time. this is caused by the slow QLC Flash it uses, the very small DRAM cache + the more it's filled the smaller its dynamic cache.
Good quality standard SATA SSDs are often better than the Intel 660p, such as MX500, 860 Evo, WD Blue 3D/Sandisk Ultra 3D + their prices dropped a lot in the recent months so you may now get a 1TB SSD for the money you paid for a 500GB SSD one year ago.
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Could I just get a 500 WD SSD and then find a 1TB HDD?
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Yes. Don't mind the above, the majority of SSDs will be fine and you won't notice major changes over time.
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PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mfCWpG
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mfCWpG/by_merchant/
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor
Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: GeIL - EVO SPEAR 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($49.99 @ Adorama)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card
Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Total: $49.99
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-14 15:44 EDT-0400
Do I need to get sound card or anything else for internet hook up?
Also, I just have the disk for Windows Office 7 I believe, I don't believe I have the old windows 7 code. Would that work as well?
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Do I need to get sound card or anything else for internet hook up?
No, your motherboard has both.
Realtek Gigabit LAN
7.1 CH HD Audio (Realtek ALC892 Audio Codec), Nichicon Fine Gold Series Audio Caps
Also, I just have the disk for Windows Office 7 I believe, I don't believe I have the old windows 7 code. Would that work as well?
Just Google for one of many product key finder utilities, like ProduKey or similar. It'll find your Win 7 key.
Then go to https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
and download windows media creation tool.
It's best to use USB flash drive (min 8GB).
Once you assemble your new PC, boot from USB drive, install Windows 10 and activate it with your Win 7 key.
As of today, that still works.
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The old PC is pretty messed up at the moment, not sure if I could pull it from there or not.
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How badly messed is the old PC? If you boot from the Win7 CD you'll find the option to repair your computer. Running chkdsk /r for the drive including the OS in the Command Prompt may fix the system so you can boot it at least once to get the key. The CD/DVD is just a generic media to carry the installation files and as 2bighorn said you can fully legally download it from Microsoft.
Better yet, you can use another PC to read the old HDD: https://www.howtogeek.com/64600/how-to-recover-windows-and-software-keys-from-a-broken-computer/ (https://www.howtogeek.com/64600/how-to-recover-windows-and-software-keys-from-a-broken-computer/)
By the way, did you deliberately opt the SSD out from your last listing or did you just forget it? Note that the motherboard you chose has an M2 slot for a more modern SSD so if you choose one don't limit the speed to the SATA bus. That said, an SSD in any port is so fast you most likely can't tell any difference in normal use.
For the RAM speed vs. CPU 2bighorn addressed earlier, I found this quite thorough yet layman-ish article: https://www.pcsteps.com/7932-real-ram-speed-mhz-cas-latency/ (https://www.pcsteps.com/7932-real-ram-speed-mhz-cas-latency/). There was some interesting information concerning new AMD systems and their ability to use higher speed RAM so you may want to read it. But as has been said, RAM speed doesn't affect FPS in games so your wallet is a good judge there.
https://www.pcsteps.com/7932-real-ram-speed-mhz-cas-latency/
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I browse the following thread every now and then.
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/new
Every now and then it has some pretty great deals if you dont mind waiting to get some parts for your build.
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Your motherboard comes with wired LAN and onboard audio, though no speakers or wifi, so you'll either need speakers or use a monitor with built in sound, and an ethernet connection to your modem/router.
Mike
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SATA is not a Bus system. M.2 is just a slot which may support either SATA or PCIe storage or both, some of them are just for Wifi modules.
For normal use a 'good' NVMe SSD (like 970 Evo) is a waste of money - too expensive per GB. 'Bad' NVMe with QLC Flash (like intel 660, Crucial P1) are cheap but drop down to SATA speed relatively fast and for long writes may even drop below HDD speed.
NVMe has its strengths if you often access/write large files such as databases or video/audiofiles during editing.
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SATA is not a Bus system. M.2 is just a slot which may support either SATA or PCIe storage or both, some of them are just for Wifi modules.
Sorry for the inaccuracy due to my bad English. "Connector" might be a better word here?
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something to tell you about the ssd. about 5 or 6 years ago this guy was gunho about ssd's statistics and this and that to prove ssd's would last forever. well i decided to prove him wrong and use actual real life data. so i bought that ssd and left it outside of my case, that same fricking ssd is still outside of the case where i kick it almost everytime i turn on the computer, once or twice got splashed with beer as i dropped one, i cleaned it fast. I once ran the vacuum cleaner and damaged the cables but the ssd is still on the carpet going strong.
damn things last forever. so my apologies to whoever it was that proved me wrong. I am gonna leave it on the carpet till it dies. i do back up my sistem everytime on another hd, regularly just it case, i just dont think i will ever need it. I also have a hitachi that i kicked dropped when i bought it new about 10 years ago or so. i have two hd's but only the ssd is connected at all times unless for back up.
the ssd is the samsung 840 evo bought in 6/14/14. I last upgraded my computer 8 years ago. damn time flies
semp
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Dumb question for you guys, how do you select which drive to use? I have both in my new rig but everything just downloads on the SSD card. I just don't know how to use it yet. :cheers: :salute :bhead
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Dumb question for you guys, how do you select which drive to use? I have both in my new rig but everything just downloads on the SSD card. I just don't know how to use it yet. :cheers: :salute :bhead
No dumb questions, only occasional dumb answers...
First question: Have you formatted the HDD so Windows can see it? If not, right click the Windows logo in the lower left corner and choose Disk Management. You should find your HDD there. You can then partition it to smaller chunks or just format it to one large. There's other options as well but keep it simple unless you really know what you're doing.
After formatting you should see the HDD (or its partitions) in the Explorer, having a drive letter assigned to it. And then you can choose whatever you want to put there; install programs, create folders, whatever.
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something to tell you about the ssd. about 5 or 6 years ago this guy was gunho about ssd's statistics and this and that to prove ssd's would last forever. well i decided to prove him wrong and use actual real life data. so i bought that ssd and left it outside of my case, that same fricking ssd is still outside of the case where i kick it almost everytime i turn on the computer, once or twice got splashed with beer as i dropped one, i cleaned it fast. I once ran the vacuum cleaner and damaged the cables but the ssd is still on the carpet going strong.
damn things last forever. so my apologies to whoever it was that proved me wrong. I am gonna leave it on the carpet till it dies. i do back up my sistem everytime on another hd, regularly just it case, i just dont think i will ever need it. I also have a hitachi that i kicked dropped when i bought it new about 10 years ago or so. i have two hd's but only the ssd is connected at all times unless for back up.
the ssd is the samsung 840 evo bought in 6/14/14. I last upgraded my computer 8 years ago. damn time flies
semp
I remember reading those posts back in the day, Semp
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Can't remember the then player's handle (could search up the threads I suppose) but I also remember the heated back & forth postings between this player & Skuzzy as well concerning SSD usage\endurance back then. Made for some entertaining reading...
.
:)
Just to post that I also ran similar tests myself to prove it out either way and so far to date my results are mirroring yours (I started running SSD's exclusively in all my boxes since 10-19-12...have used 4 different brands of SSD's-OCz, Plextor, Muskin and Samsung, 3 different types-SATAIII, PCI-E and NVMe
.so far all w\o any hint of issue, sector loss or speed reduction w\ all except the 2 PCI-E SSD's still in active use (both PCI-E SSD's are spare for the moment, 1 is a Plextor M6e BE 512Gb HH-HL PCI-E SSD, 1 is a Samsung SM951 128Gb M.2 PCI-E SSD).
But also in fairness I run mine in conjunction w\ 16+Gb of system mem (best protection against writebacks as most data will stay in system mem caches once put\read there while most avg programs are running and are only written back to SSD's when box is powered off due to the massive amount of spare available addressible system mem for the OS to use....Win 10 WILL use it, too) and configure all potential writebacks to 1 dedicated SSD where the pagefile is kept. Ran test using AHIII running w\ Windows Performance Monitor also running in the background along w\ 16 other background processes running using 16Gb system mem w\ Win Perf Mon configured to record the number of write backs (or pageouts if you prefer to call them that) occurring from system mem to virtual mem (SSD in my case). After playing AHIII over 2+ hrs pulled up WPM and it recorded 0% writebacks to the SSD (was reported that AHIII would make a lot of small writes to a HDD\SSD while the client was running so I tested for that) so from this result I don't even worry about this any more as it shows that the 16Gb of system mem along w\ the built in SSD management in Win 7 OS on (this is even better in Win 10) made this a non issue concerning SSD usage on my boxes so all my boxes are therefore configured w\ min of 16Gb of system mem and a dedicated SSD for pagefile duty only in case the box does need to write out w\ the OS set to dynamically set up\manage the page file on the single SSD so haven't had any SSD-related issues at all since (over 4 yrs run time on both mine and wife's boxes) w\ the dedicated SSD's showing less than 1 TBW (total bytes written) and they're 128Gb SSD's so they've got a TON of life left before they even start to show any effects of wear. Since the OS sees it has an entire SSD's partition to use as a page file it doesn't even try to set up\use a page file on the other 2 SSD's so they are spared of this as well so the only writes they see are whenever I download something, update a driver, install a new app, delete something or physically shut down my box (I also have the OS to purge the page file during shutdown as well to try to stress it further). To give an example of just how this is stressing my SSD's here is the TBW data on each SSD in my current box in sig below (ran same SSD's previously on my Intel X99 build from 7-19-16 on then moved to current AMD box built on 4-17 then moved to the current Fractal Design Meshify C case then installed custom WC loop in 9-17): Samsung 950 Pro 512Gb NVMe SSD (OS\apps\drivers) @ 8.0 TBW, Samsung 850 Pro 128Gb SATAIII SSD (page file only) @ .73 TBW, Samsung 850 Pro 512Gb SATAIII SSD (Win Libraries\storage\downloads) @ .92 TBW. Of the 8.0 TBW on the NVMe boot SSD better than 90% of that comes from shut down\power off of PC when the OS writes the system mem caches back to the NVMe SSD (or the drive on which the OS is installed...usually the boot drive) before power off (when you're talking about 16Gb of system mem over several hrs of run time that's a LOT of stored data to provision\write back). All SSD wear leveling data comes from using Samsung Magician 4.9.7 SSD Management software also actively running in the background...
.
As you can see, these SSD's aren't even scratched as the current "wear" is less than .25% of all active bytes over 2 1\2+ yrs of usage...
.but I also have a couple of SATAIII SSD's (the OCz Vertex4's that have been in use since 10-19-12, 1st in my Intel X79 box then a short stint in my Intel X99 box then moved to the wife's Intel z87 box where they're still plowing along just fine some 6 1\2+ yrs later used in tandem w\ a Mushkin Stealth 1 TB SATAIII SSD under 16Gb of Mushkin Stealth DDR3 2133 DC 4Gb x 4 mem kit...
.
Yeah I admit it......I'm a geek and my boxes are geeked out to minimize SSD performance\damage issues...
..
Mostly overkill but I like it that way!
:D :salute
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Ripley, and he's still here under a different name. :aok
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So we wrapped up some things at work, and getting ready to pull the trigger. How does this look?
PCPartPicker Part List: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/xmgMsZ
CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 2600X 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($179.99 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: ASRock - B450 Steel Legend ATX AM4 Motherboard ($109.99 @ Amazon)
Memory: GeIL - EVO SPEAR 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-3000 Memory ($80.88 @ OutletPC)
Storage: Samsung - 860 Evo 500 GB 2.5" Solid State Drive ($79.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Western Digital - Caviar Blue 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($44.89 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: MSI - GeForce GTX 1660 6 GB VENTUS XS OC Video Card ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Case: NZXT - H500 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case ($69.17 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Gold 550 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($79.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Total: $864.89
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2019-04-28 20:14 EDT-0400
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dont forget a usb self powered hub. for your joystick and throttle. it helps a lot.
semp
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Looks good to me, no obvious weakness there. Plus what semp said about the powered USB hub, it can help keeping the controllers sound.
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Is the 1TB HDD big enough for your needs ?
Depending on how much you need and how long the computer is active per day one may consider getting a larger WD Red - I prefer 5400rpm drives for storage as they are usually much quieter than 7.2k ones.
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Would it not be enough? I wouldn't play a ton of games on it I wouldn't figure unless I got into the Madden and FIFA world.
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1TB should be plenty.
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Is the 1TB HDD big enough for your needs ?
Depending on how much you need and how long the computer is active per day one may consider getting a larger WD Red - I prefer 5400rpm drives for storage as they are usually much quieter than 7.2k ones.
Read/Write speeds are reduced at lower rpm. I have a 15,000 rpm drive and of course I am older and have lost the upper end of my hearing range, but I hardly notice it is even there.
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Would it not be enough? I wouldn't play a ton of games on it I wouldn't figure unless I got into the Madden and FIFA world.
1 TB is plenty unless you store thousands of RAW format photos, edit videos, store movies or have a ton of games installed. In the last case I wonder how often would one single game get played if one gaming session lasts a few hours and the player has a job and family. Then again, there's not much price difference in 1 and 2 TB versions.
As Chalenge said, 5400 RPM HDD's are slow. They made sort of a comeback as a cheaper and less power hungry alternative for the 7200 RPM disks for storage use. Back in the day when 7200's were the "fast" ones, a 5400 would do as a secondary drive for random use. Logically with a fast SSD a 7200 RPM would be the next slower storage. Now that the overall power consumption of serious gaming desktops has drastically dropped - four digit power supplies are rarely needed! - there's no need to try to cut a single percent here and there. There's plenty to choose from the inexpensive 7200 RPM/64 MB cache range, 128 MB cache being a little more expensive. Just choose a version meant for 24/7 use.
The 15000 RPM disks are way too expensive for gaming use.
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dont forget a usb self powered hub. for your joystick and throttle. it helps a lot.
Looks good to me, no obvious weakness there. Plus what semp said about the powered USB hub, it can help keeping the controllers sound.
These days many motherboards have solution for USB voltage drops (advertised under different names).
In case of ASRock - B450 Steel Legend, power is supplied from MB 12V power plane and stepped down to 5V, to ensure stable USB voltage without dips.
On ASRock - B450 Steel Legend, this is implemented on 4 rear USB 3.1 gen 1 (formerly USB 3.0) ports. ASRock calls it "Ultra USB Power".
So, no real need for powered USB hub...
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That's good to know. At least worth testing before investing another $15. :salute
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That's good to know. At least worth testing before investing another $15. :salute
These days many motherboards have solution for USB voltage drops (advertised under different names).
In case of ASRock - B450 Steel Legend, power is supplied from MB 12V power plane and stepped down to 5V, to ensure stable USB voltage without dips.
On ASRock - B450 Steel Legend, this is implemented on 4 rear USB 3.1 gen 1 (formerly USB 3.0) ports. ASRock calls it "Ultra USB Power".
So, no real need for powered USB hub...
Just to add on here, you could also make use of the often overlooked and under utilized spare USB 2.x INTERNAL USB headers (usually 2 of these) that are still offered on many mobos even today to run USB HOTAS controllers off of. All that would be required is the addition of a 3 or 4 port USB 2.x rear case adapter (these can still be found on some online sites, like Newegg, for about the same amount of money or less than a cheap powered USB hub) to power\run the controllers off the mobo (thus PSU) power which is usually fairly stable (have their own mobo tracing routes to chipset) and more than adequate for most any set of std USB HOTAS controllers as most still use the USB 1.x\2.x specs.
This is how I have my CH USB HOTAS setup currently attached to my box shown in sig below. Works just fine so no need of a powered hub.
The main difference today is the use of VR headsets\controllers which most require min of USB 3.x specs but many mobo's also provide internal USB 3.x headers as well that also go unused on a fair number of systems (unless being used for front case USB access, which could also be the same for at least 1 of the internal USB 2.x headers).
You could also use a 3 or 4 slot USB to PCI-E add in card mounted in a spare PCI-E slot (min 1x slot) on the mobo to do the same....for approx. the same $15 cost of a powered USB hub. I have also gone this route as well prior to my current configuration (used an Orico 7-port USB to PCI-E add in card....card worked fine, the issue was the ports were arrainged on card perpendicular to the rear case slot so the problem of grounding was apparent if the rear case slot was not wide enough to effectively clear the USB plug). This was the only reason why I stopped using it.....I then remembered that I had 1 of these 4 port internal USB 2.x rear case adapters spare in my spare\used computer parts bin.....popped it in and been happy since.
I only bring this up as these options are often overlooked nowadays but are still available on many of the latest mobos to date. Some of us old timers that have been building boxes for some time even may already have 1 or more of these internal USB rear case adapters spare as these were more commonly supplied w\ mobos back in the day to provide additional USB port access but not so much these days.
Hope this helps.
:salute
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So, I'll probably be ordering the parts this weekend. *Insert Dumpster Fire Gif*
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That's good to know. At least worth testing before investing another $15. :salute
Fairly easy to test. I'm not going to be testing it on any of my machines though. How many devices do you think a 'modern' MB could take before voltage flatlines.
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From the old build, anything worth saving?
5 Case NZXT Crafted Series Tempest 410
6 Motherboard Gigabyte G-Z77UD5H
7 Processor Intel I5 2500K 3.3 GHz
8 Heat sink/Fan Stock
9 Memory Corsair XMS 16GB (2 x 8GB)
10 Video Card(s) XFX HD-6870
11 Power Supply Corsair GS-800
12 SSD(s) N/A
13 Hard Drive(s) Western Digital Caviar Black 1TB
14 DVD/BluRay(s) Samsung DVD - CD Combo drive
15 Operating System Microsoft Windows 7 Professional
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The case can be used for your new build.
The Operating System license can be used for your new build to install Windows 10 if you're going to get rid of your old computer without a Windows OS.
The Power Supply, Hard Drive and DVD/BluRay will also work in your new build for as long as they last.
The Motherboard, Processor and Memory make a solid combination of matching parts where the gaming power is defined by the video card. There should be buyers for that combo.
Then again, selling the computer as an older entry level gamer might be a good solution as well. The price level here would be around 250-300 including Windows. But then you'd have to buy a license for Win10 for +$100...
I'd at least keep the case and the Windows license trying to sell the rest, maybe keeping the PSU and HDD and DVD as well unless someone desperately wants them.
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I have it all built, windows installed, everything looks good.
I can't however get the SSD to show up in the file explorer menu. I checked disk management and it says it's online, but it's black bared instead the blue like the HDD. It also says that the 465 GB is unallocated.
I know it's being read because I could've chose it to install windows on.
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I have it all built, windows installed, everything looks good.
I can't however get the SSD to show up in the file explorer menu. I checked disk management and it says it's online, but it's black bared instead the blue like the HDD. It also says that the 465 GB is unallocated.
I know it's being read because I could've chose it to install windows on.
The unallocated means that it has not been set up to be read by the operating system - your installation program could see it and would have handled the setup for it, but the "normal" operating system relies on the disk management app to do that sort of thing before it can see it. Right click on the disk in disk management and create a new volume. After that (and perhaps a reboot), your file manager will be able to see it.
Mike
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I have it all built, windows installed, everything looks good.
I can't however get the SSD to show up in the file explorer menu. I checked disk management and it says it's online, but it's black bared instead the blue like the HDD. It also says that the 465 GB is unallocated.
I know it's being read because I could've chose it to install windows on.
Hmm... why didn't you install Windows on the SSD? Do you have several of them?
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Hmm... why didn't you install Windows on the SSD? Do you have several of them?
I thought it may have been damaged in delivery, so I went with the HDD cause I knew it worked.
The unallocated means that it has not been set up to be read by the operating system - your installation program could see it and would have handled the setup for it, but the "normal" operating system relies on the disk management app to do that sort of thing before it can see it. Right click on the disk in disk management and create a new volume. After that (and perhaps a reboot), your file manager will be able to see it.
Mike
Thank you!
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I thought it may have been damaged in delivery, so I went with the HDD cause I knew it worked.
SSD's mostly can take a lot of G's as long as the case stays intact. There's no moving parts inside and they're lightweight so dropping it on the floor won't usually hurt. Plus if there's something wrong the installation procedure would stop at some point. You're crippling your system performance badly if you have the SSD for other use only than Windows.
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SSD's mostly can take a lot of G's as long as the case stays intact. There's no moving parts inside and they're lightweight so dropping it on the floor won't usually hurt. Plus if there's something wrong the installation procedure would stop at some point. You're crippling your system performance badly if you have the SSD for other use only than Windows.
Agree 100%.
Put the OS on your SSD.
Coogan