Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: DREDIOCK on December 01, 2018, 12:14:15 PM
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Some 10 years ago. Give or take a couple months the fine folks here provided input and thoughts that helped me build a damn fine bang for buck system. It still runs and I am still using to this day I am literally using it at this moment. The only changes made was to replace a bad video card. In fact here is my post build report dated "November 29, 2008"
https://bbs.hitechcreations.com/smf/index.php/topic,253159.msg3120878.html#msg3120878
I have had no complaints about this build. None. It has been by far dollar for dollar year to year the best and longest lasting machine I have ever had.
But. just like an old dog or a good car..its getting on that time that it needs to be replaced. Particularly since HTC upgraded the game beyond my current capabilities. Its ok. The machine like I said is starting to show its age anyway.
So here we are
Back then the best bang for buck CPU was the Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz. etc etc and that was what the system was based upon.
Looking to go the same type route. Price point is right around the $1,000.00 -$1,200.00 mark. With the preference being to keep it under $1,200.00.
While Im not a huge gamer. AH is really the only real game I spend any time on. I want to be able to adequately run anything I decide to with the highest possible settings.
Oh and for a case. I just want something simple and functional. Meaning I don't want all kinds of lights spinning,glowing and flashing that make it look like a mini carnival is going on under my desk.
So there we have it. I see someone else is looking to build a system too didnt want to double post but I figured Id put up more specific parameters.
Your mission. should you choose to accept it is to come up with a general consensus
Best bang for buck built around the best bang for buck CPU with a best bang for buck supporting cast and a target price for the completed build to be between $1,000.00 -$1,200.00.
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Wow! How similar that is compared to my system! E8500, Gigabyte GA-EP35-DS3... Beefed up with another 4 GB to 8 GB, replaced the PSU a couple of times just in case and at least the third video card is running AH right now. And yes, the age is slowly showing. Not badly, a higher end video card (GTX970) helps a lot playing AH...
That said, with the budget you have a long living system should not be an issue.
This is just a sketch. You can save $124 by reusing your Windows license if you're going to abandon the current system. Add a $100 for a GTX 1070:
PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMqDXP (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMqDXP)
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMqDXP/by_merchant/ (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMqDXP/by_merchant/)
CPU: Intel - Core i5-8600K 3.6 GHz 6-Core Processor ($254.89 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: ARCTIC - Freezer 13 36.4 CFM CPU Cooler ($28.95 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte - Z370P D3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($99.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($125.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate - Constellation ES.3 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.30 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card ($239.99 @ Newegg Business)
Case: Corsair - SPEC-03 Red ATX Mid Tower Case ($33.98 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Platinum 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
Optical Drive: Asus - DRW-24D5MT DVD/CD Writer ($21.57 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft - Windows 10 Pro OEM 64-bit ($124.79 @ OutletPC)
Total: $1067.44
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-12-01 14:19 EST-0500
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What monitor would you suggest for that system? Would that 1060 handle a 1440 144hz 32"?
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Dred, I'm assuming that your plans are to leave the old computer you built back in 2008 fully intact, and not use any of the components from it, such as the LG DVD-R +/- Rewriter w/ Litescribe, etc....?
If so, what extra components might you be wanting to include in your new PC build?
Which OS version are you going/want to go with? Windows 10 Pro, Windows 8.1 Pro, Windows 7 Pro
Intel or AMD CPU? or are you open to both
DVD-R Rewriter / BluRay DL Rewriter?
Multi-type Card Reader?
Using Onboard integrated Sound of Dedicated Sound Card (or USB Dedicated Sound Card via USB 3.0/3.1 port)?
AMD/ATI or Nvidia GPU? Are you specific towards any type?
Are you specific towards certain Manufacturers? ie: ASUS, Gigabyte, EVGA, MSI, AsRock, XFX, Sapphire, Thermaltake, Antec, Fractual, Cooler Master, etc...
Just some thoughts and ideas for what you might be interested in and what direction you want to go with your new PC build
TC
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If he has any version windows pro he can get win 10 pro free.
I just upgraded a machine yesterday.
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What monitor would you suggest for that system? Would that 1060 handle a 1440 144hz 32"?
The inches don't matter in this case. The answer is no, I don't believe it would. The 1060 is excellent for 1920 x 1080 @ 60 Hz but not much higher. 1440p @ 144Hz is three times the load. 1070 should do.
Shuffler, if he has any version of Windows starting from 7 he can get the equivalent of 10 free if he has the code. Windows 8/8.1 systems with the digital license can be upgraded but only with most of the original parts present.
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I run a Benq 32” monitor 1920 x 1080 @ 144hz with a 1060 6 gigs. With envio mapping at 0, slider for trees at 75, and the others at max detail I get 141-144 FPS consistently.
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I am running this
Intel Core 2 Duo E8400 Wolfdale 3.0GHz
Gigabyte G41MT-S2PT
NVIDIA GeForce GTX 560 (Driver 314.22)
4gb ram
I am getting a FR of in the 50's using this setup. I have all the video settings in AH turned all the way down though, but it is smooth
NOTE - I was getting a lot of lag and poor frame rates originally, but went online and did some searching around about this video card. I found a post somewhere that said to specifically use this version of driver to fix those issues. I loaded it and everything as been smooth since
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I run a Benq 32” monitor 1920 x 1080 @ 144hz with a 1060 6 gigs. With envio mapping at 0, slider for trees at 75, and the others at max detail I get 141-144 FPS consistently.
Thanks for the information. :salute
So for correcting my previous answer, it works well at 1920 x 1080 up to 144Hz. Adding to either of the variables may cause performance issues.
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PCPartPicker part list: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMqDXP (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMqDXP)
Price breakdown by merchant: https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMqDXP/by_merchant/ (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/LMqDXP/by_merchant/)
Memory: Corsair - Vengeance LPX 16 GB (2 x 8 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory ($125.99 @ Newegg)
Storage: Seagate - Constellation ES.3 1 TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive ($47.30 @ Amazon)
Power Supply: SeaSonic - FOCUS Plus Platinum 650 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply ($89.99 @ Newegg)
memory too slow, CPU supports 2666. Gskill Aegis 3000 is actally cheaper than the 2400 RAM
SSD as system drive is missing, 250GB MX500/860 EVO
HDD smells a bit too smal - 1TB is easily filled
PSU is very good but a bit overdosed (more in the high-end category), even 550W wold be overdosed but one could save soe bucks by downgrading, there's also the Focus+ Gold which may save some more bucks
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Denniss, it may be false information, but for what I've learned the speed of RAM doesn't play a significant role if the speeds are roughly in the same ballpark. Another thing to take into consideration is CAS latency which for the Corsair is 14 and for the Gskill 16. If I calculated right, the Gskill is a little faster and if it's cheaper, even better. The reason I'm not too fancy about Gskill is that at least some models don't automatically get the "right" values, by default they'll be underclocked. Not a big deal for someone familiar with overclocking, but very distracting to one who doesn't feel comfortable with it. That's why I chose the more traditional Corsair into my sketch.
There's also a reason for me not putting a DDR into the system. It doesn't speed AH in any way and as the OP said,
AH is really the only real game I spend any time on. I want to be able to adequately run anything I decide to with the highest possible settings.
. I'd rather spend that $100 to a better video card.
1 TB is small? Tell that to the laptop manufacturers who put a 32 GB SSD as the only storage! But yes, it depends. The OP didn't tell much of his storage needs. Windows takes about 30 GB, AH takes 6-7 GB. According to the link the OP posted he has a 750 GB HDD in his current rig so maybe he needs more space. The price difference is not too big to a 2 TB HDD so that's a sane option.
The choice for PSU was that it was the cheapest fully modular Platinum and only $15 more than the cheapest 550W Gold. If semi modular is good enough, and if the GTX 1060 is good enough for PSU, the SeaSonic SSR-550FM is a very good budget choice. For a GTX 1070 I'd choose the 650 for some headroom. Although Nvidia says 500 W would suffice, they're talking about true power. Since the OP seems to be planning to keep the rig for the next decade, I calculated some power loss for aging.
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Indeed many gskill RAM default to 2133 MHz and you have to enable XMP to get advertized speeds. They may have a value series where this isn't the case but don't know about that.
There's no reason to not use the maximum certified memory speed of a CPU unless it's heavily overprized. On Intel CPUs the gains may not be as noticable as on AMD Ryzen CPUs but it's still there. It may not help that much in maximum FPS but in minimum FPS, just like a faster CPU usually helps more for minimum than maximum fps.
1TB HDD is small for Desktop systems unless it's just something for Office or all your data is stored on a NAS or other network/online storage.
Even for a 1070 you won't need 650W, that's the dimension you need for Vega64 to be on the safe side due to extreme short-duration spikes a Vega64 may produce. Seasonic even admitted that these spikes caused early series 550W Focus+ to trigger over-current protection.
Most PSU requirements as stated by manufacturers have a lot of headroom to take cheap China "Boom-Bang" PSUs into account, something like LC-Power 600W for 30 bucks which is more an outdated/overlabelled 400W design.
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I think 1TB is a bit small, especially for Windows 10.
For a couple of dollars more you can get a 2TB Seagate Constellation (https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-7200RPM-Heavy-Duty-Internal-Desktop/dp/B01A8KTK5M/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543842386&sr=1-3&keywords=2tb+internal+hard+drive&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A8067152011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A4990426011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6799355011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7688215011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A3064368011).
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Indeed many gskill RAM default to 2133 MHz and you have to enable XMP to get advertized speeds. They may have a value series where this isn't the case but don't know about that.
There's no reason to not use the maximum certified memory speed of a CPU unless it's heavily overprized. On Intel CPUs the gains may not be as noticable as on AMD Ryzen CPUs but it's still there. It may not help that much in maximum FPS but in minimum FPS, just like a faster CPU usually helps more for minimum than maximum fps.
1TB HDD is small for Desktop systems unless it's just something for Office or all your data is stored on a NAS or other network/online storage.
Even for a 1070 you won't need 650W, that's the dimension you need for Vega64 to be on the safe side due to extreme short-duration spikes a Vega64 may produce. Seasonic even admitted that these spikes caused early series 550W Focus+ to trigger over-current protection.
Most PSU requirements as stated by manufacturers have a lot of headroom to take cheap China "Boom-Bang" PSUs into account, something like LC-Power 600W for 30 bucks which is more an outdated/overlabelled 400W design.
I think that making sure the RAM speed being maxed is the least of someone's worries. If you are trying to do some min/max stuff with a desktop, sure, but anything will work for what Drediock is trying to do.
I am currently running a 500GB SSD+1TB Storage in my desktop on W10 and I have no storage issues, both drives aren't even half full, and this includes the big space games like GTAV, World Of, Battlefield, etc. With that said, with a price ceiling of $1K+ there is really no reason to forgo an SSD boot drive, a ~256GB one would suffice, and also allow the 1TB to be for games/movies/music only. Platter drives are so cheap these days anyway, I think I picked up a 4TB one a couple years ago for ~$80 or so.
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I think 1TB is a bit small, especially for Windows 10.
For a couple of dollars more you can get a 2TB Seagate Constellation (https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-7200RPM-Heavy-Duty-Internal-Desktop/dp/B01A8KTK5M/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1543842386&sr=1-3&keywords=2tb+internal+hard+drive&refinements=p_n_feature_keywords_four_browse-bin%3A8067152011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_three_browse-bin%3A4990426011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_two_browse-bin%3A6799355011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_five_browse-bin%3A7688215011%2Cp_n_feature_keywords_browse-bin%3A3064368011).
Agreed that there's no big difference in hard disk prices between 1 and 2 TB. But small? I have a 500 GB disk on my system and it's only half full, including photos, movies, music etc. Then again, I don't do any video or RAW photo editing or multi track music which all can be quite disk space intensive. Neither have I installed any of those massive games that require 20 GB for installing and double that for patches.
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If you have modern flight sims with huge photoreal textures, there is no hard drive large enough. I have DCS World, DCS World beta, P3d with a lot of ORBX upgrades (including the huge Netherlands upgrade), Aerofly FS2 with some ORBX (most notably the huge Netherlands upgrade), FlyInside Flight Simulator, IL-2 Battle Over XXX, etc. A 500 GB SSD plus a conventional 2 TB RAID 1 array were not enough. Adding a 500 GB SSD has allowed me to upgrade a few sims stuck on the much slower RAID array, but I really need a whole lot more SSD space to load and run these sims without long load times and stuttering.
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Thanks for updating my database about massive disk space hogs. :salute
The reason why I opted for a smaller disk was based on what Drediock wrote:
[snip]---it needs to be replaced. Particularly since HTC upgraded the game beyond my current capabilities.---AH is really the only real game I spend any time on.---
Preparing for other games with vastly different requirements would not produce the best bang for the buck, IMHO, unless there's something untold involved.
Sketching a system is like a puzzle with some invisible pieces. The more the customer tells about his needs and tasks, the better the result.
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Thanks for updating my database about massive disk space hogs. :salute
The reason why I opted for a smaller disk was based on what Drediock wrote: Preparing for other games with vastly different requirements would not produce the best bang for the buck, IMHO, unless there's something untold involved.
Sketching a system is like a puzzle with some invisible pieces. The more the customer tells about his needs and tasks, the better the result.
Oh stop with your knowledgeable, well thought out, explanations.
:aok
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Thanks for the input so far.
As for the OC I figure I'll just got with Windows 10. Might as well get the latest now. Current machine is still running XP. LMAO
I have an unused copy of 7 But Im thinking on using my old rig as a dual boot system. There is some stuff i still want XP on this machine for and I figured If I can set up a dual boot without loosing my existing copy of XP I'd prefer to do that. (I have my reasons)
TQ, naaa Im just going to go all new on the parts. Even the DVD-Rs are showing their age (I added a second one from an old machine)
Intel on the CPU
The rest. Not real particular. just bang for buck. Ive used both ASUS and Gigabyte in the past. Definitely want one with on board sound. I can always add an audio card later
Not real worried about a card reader. This rig doesnt have one and that something I can get later if I have the need
Hard drive. LOL I still have over 300 Gigs on my current one. I have never filled up a hard drive But if more is better and we can squeeze it in. Go for it. Never know. my needs may change
The price point of the one Skuzzy pointed out is less then half of what I paid for the one I got 10 years ago and its got what? 3 times the storage now? LOL I remember a LONG time ago we used to kid with a running joke that the way HD prices per MEG (just to give an idea of exactly HOW long ago) were dropping that one day they would just come inside cereal boxes.
Really what Im looking for is literally the best bang for buck in performance for $1,000 - $1,200 similar in quality to what I built 10 years ago. Most of those parts we considered to be pretty good quality. In a nut shell. The best parts that will work well together to create the highest end machine for the price point.
Oh. We dont have to worry about a mouse or keyboard hehe.
Whats the plus'/ minuses between the latest Intel chips?
The i9s seem to be a bit on the pricy side
So I guess the question is between the i5's and i7's
I know with my last system I kinda just started with the CPU and built everything around that.
--EDIT--
I really dont care about SSD's one way or the other.
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@Drediock, thanks for the update, knowing your needs better really helps! Between i5 and i7 the i5 should be enough for about any game, i7 would be needed in case you're going to record/stream your gaming and edit the videos heavily in the shortest possible time. I still stand behind my first sketch with the exceptions that the faster yet cheaper Gskill RAM is a good option if you're prepared to manually set the speed in the BIOS, and replacing the GTX 1060 with a GTX 1070 to ensure you can max all the settings even if you change your monitor to one with more speed and/or tighter resolution.
@Shuffler, my explanations are well thought of simply because I have to triple check everything I read to understand what is being asked. I also have to re-read my answers to make sure that they're at least vaguely understandable. Although Google Translator has improved a lot as I noticed while testing the previous sentences I still wouldn't trust it.
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Dred,
So you are saying that you are going to use your copy of Windows 7 OS on your current existing PC in dual boot mode
and for the new PC build, you will be going with using Windows 10....is this correct?
As for having WindowsXP / Windows 7 ultimate and Windows 8.1 Pro set up in a multi boot setup... Everything works smoothly.....if you try to (or want to) dual boot or multi-boot with adding Windows 10 OS to any or all of the above mentioned Windows versions, be prepared for Windows 10 taking control of all your other Windows OS versions and totally screwing them up....especially by automatically adding KB updates and files that you most likely don't want installed including the telemetry data gathering processes being added to all your different Windows OS versions in your dual/multi-boot setup
I've done been through all of this drivel and it took me 3 to 4 months of cleaning, uninstalling, verifying, etc etc etc...getting my multi-boot setup back to where it was before I had added Windows 10 to the multi-boot setup....
Instead of pulling out 3 hot swap HDD/SSD bays(trays) to disengage the Sata/Power connections and pushing in 2 hot swap HDD/SSD bays(trays) to engage the Sata and power connections...before turning the power on....
I built myself a little side mounted switch box with several toggle switches that with some little splicing and wiring, I was able to forgo the having to physically disengage/engage the hotswap bays each time I wanted or needed to use a particular OS....now all I have to do is toggle some switches then power up the PC...
Hope this helps
TC
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Hmm... The dual boot idea, or using trays/switches for using a different flavour of Windows when needed makes me think about using the same license code for both since the versions will never be used simultaneously. I can't see a moral issue there, Redmond might but I won't tell them.
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I have 2 SSD's in my puter, one with a whole new install, the other with my previous install. I would run the new system or old one by plugging and unplugging the relevant SSD. This was some months back and the details are a bit fuzzy now..... :old: .....My intention was to make moving old stuff to the new drive more relaxing. It seems one day I must have had both SSD's plugged in and Windows seemingly decided that something was awry and needed fixin....and as I recall a lot of the stuff on the old SSD seemed to disappear, so my sense is caution is advised when trying to run 2 versions of windows on the same puter.
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when you turned it on with them both plugged in/hooked up
which ever way you have your BIOS set to boot which drive or device first started up and screwed up your MBR ( Master Boot Record ), since you did not have it set up in a dual-boot or multi-boot manner.... were both SSDs loaded with the same OS type or was it 2 different OSes ( ie... SSD 1- Windows 7 / SSD 2- Windows 7 or SSD 1- Windows 7 / SSD 2- Windows 8 or 10 )..... I could see why you might have lost or had some corrupted files possibly..
I had 1 PC that had 4 different Windows 7 Ultimate 64 bit OS installations on it, and it was setup in Multi-boot so I could choose which particular OS I wanted to use.... back when I had it set up like that, I had each individual OS install set up completely different, for different reasons and for testing purposes...
VM makes things so easy now.....
TC
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AFAIR with Win10 (probably Win8 too) you have to disable fast boot/quickboot or whatever its called so a shut-off is a real shut-off and not a hybrid mode. Otherwise you may get some data losses if dualbooting with another OS
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Disabling fast boot is good practice in any case. However, I'm not 100% positive that doing that would prevent the different Windows versions doing things to each other. Back when Windows 7 was mainstream but XP still had some advantages I made a dual booting system for a customer to help with the migration. Neither had such a feature, yet there was known data loss issues with certain files. Redmond sure hasn't made things easier after that. Not to mention that those settings should be rechecked after every update!
The only fool proof way to prevent different OSes to interfere each other is swapping hard disks. VM is a good alternative but it has some limitations.
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...... were both SSDs loaded with the same OS type or was it 2 different OSes ( ie... SSD 1- Windows 7 / SSD 2- Windows 7 or SSD 1- Windows 7 / SSD 2- Windows 8 or 10 ).......
TC, both Win 10; SSD 1 had a clunky version that started as Win 8, and was unstable and no longer updated properly, hence my motivation to do a clean install on a new (and larger) SSD (SSD2).
Somehow, even retired from full time work for 7 years now I still find myself spread thin and short on time, so I was lazy and did not set up any sort of real dual boot system, other than plugging and unplugging the drives and perhaps specifying my primary boot drive in the BIOS.
But to get back to the OP's issue, DREDIOCK, if you are still looking into CPU's you may find this article on Logicalincrements.com helpful: http://www.logicalincrements.com/articles/best-cpu-gaming-pc
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Question.
Since starting with CPU
Other then nearly $100 in price, is the difference significant between the
I5 Intel Core i5-8600K Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.6 GHz (4.3 GHz Turbo)
And the
Intel Core i7-8700K Coffee Lake 6-Core 3.7 GHz (4.7 GHz Turbo) ?
At least one of the parts I get for this build is going to be by way of Christmas gift sooo while the prefrence would be to keep the price point the same. for the right part if its worth it I might be able to squeeze just a bit more
Next up. Motherboard and Graphics card
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There's no major difference in performance unless, as told before, you're running other CPU intensive programs in the background while playing or plan to regularly do heavy photo/video editing. In those cases the i7 might be worth the extra money.
For what I've understood about your needs even the i5-8600K is overkill but since its pricing compared to other variations above 3 GHz is very competitive it's the best choice. It's plenty for mostly anything and at least sufficient even to the toughest tasks you might want to try in the future.
Also, should your needs improve to the level that the i5-8600K isn't powerful enough (which I doubt), there's an aftermarket for those. Equally in a few years you can get a second hand i7-8700K for half the price if you really needed the extra power. That's how I upgraded my current rig from e6750 to e8500 for only about €30.
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Just looking at the prices of Video Cards. Yeeeouch! The prices sure have gone up in 10 years LOL. Im guessing still the effect of the bit coin debacle.
Also. Motherboards.
Any otehr suggestions or is that Gigabyte a general consensus?
Here is another build from PC partpicker. Pluses? Minus's?
https://pcpartpicker.com/guide/PRXscf/excellent-intel-gaming-build
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The bit coin crazies did mess up the market, really badly. When they suddenly stopped buying video cards, distributors got stuck with enormous inventories of product they cannot move due to new cards coming out. NVidia refuses to take any of the old inventory back, and it appears they have kept the new card prices very high to try and drive people to buy up the old inventory.
Prices have also been impacted by the high cost of memory chips. The on-going investigations into price fixing have shown the memory makers have been working together on that,...again.
Horrible time to need a video card.
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For the motherboard, Gigabyte is just one of those having a good name. I've been as happy with mine as you have been with yours for the last decade so it was a natural choice for the price. Asus and MSI build good boards as well. The main specs I'd look for are Japan/Military capacitors for durability and a Z### chipset for overclocking capability, plus full size ATX for expansion cards and better cooling due to larger surface area. Also, if there's a bunch of boards with a slightly different ending in the name, I'd choose the cheapest one unless there's a feature I'd definitely want. The chipset tells the speed of the motherboard buses, add-ons like Wi-Fi, not to mention lighting only add to the price.
For the manirelli build... I'm not a great fan of liquid cooling, partially because transporting them in winter conditions for hours to meetings might cause freezing, potentially harming the hoses etc. For the same price you'd get an at least equally powerful and more silent Noctua air cooler. The pros and cons of SSD's have already been discussed in this thread as well as the size of a HDD. The video card... There's been talk that the 20## series is way overpriced compared to the performance gain over the 10## series. There's new features which may or more likely may not become mainstream in games. Instead of a GTX2070 I'd choose a 1070 and save $180, or a 1070Ti and save $120. That can be upgraded in the future if needed.
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That build is a bit over your price range but could be slimmed down to get within it. As Bizman said, the 2000 series cards are overkill and overpriced at the moment. The RTX stuff will more than likely take a couple generations to take off, if at all.
I think with any $1200 build it would be ridiculous to not have an SSD boot drive. Even a $120gb one is like sub-$30.
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I personally don't mind using "Crucial" (they make Micron as well as some other stuff) SSD's for my boot drive in my computers.... I have 3 different machines that have been running since April 2011 for 1st PC, August 2011 for other 2 PCs, and only one issue that was fixed via a firmware update on the 2nd build...not sure how I even missed it because the 1st and 3rd PC builds have the same SSD as the 2nd build...and I somehow managed to update them yet missed updating the 2nd build and it took me 6 months to figure out what was going on...LOL
But I recommend that you back your SSD boot drive up to a storage HD including maybe doing a disc image every few months at least..... I do weekly backups myself
Edit: not all SSDs are the same... Some manufacturers are better than others, and within any given SSD manufacturer's product line, you will find some great/good products then there will be some not worth your time or money.... You really want to research and read up on what is what regarding SSD products and the different types of attaching ie... Sata, pcie, M2 etc.....
Hope this helps
TC
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Just FYI TC, Micron makes Crucial, not the other way around.
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On SSDs you may want to buy from a company that is actually using its own flash chips not some brand that may use a wide variety of flash chips.
Those firstline brands would be Samsung, Crucial(Micron) and AFAIR Western Digital with Sandisk/Toshiba under their hood.
Of the second line rebranders but usually with good support/warranty I personally prefer Kingston.
Something to be care of when selecting SSD: some cheaper versions are without DRAM cache that may suffer some performance penalties, the new QLC flash type is rather slow and intended for big and reasonably priced data storage SSDs + no experience yet about the expected lifetime (1st gen TLC had lots of problems so I'd wait for 2nd gen QLC to be sure)
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CPU/motherboard question.
I see the CPUs require 300 series compatible motherboards.
Unfortunately on Amazon I dont see any of the motherboards listed as being (300 series) compatible but rather say "8th generation compatible"
Is 300 series and 8th Gen the same thing?
. What I am going ot do it just put a parts list out there and whatever they gt they get and Ill just get the difference myself. But I know their preferred method of shopping is Amazon. Soooo...
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8th gen Intel Core CPU require 300-series motherboards
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Drediock, just go to https://pcpartpicker.com/list/ (https://pcpartpicker.com/list/) and start building. The compatibility check should be on by default so your compilation should work. How well, depends on the speed of the components.
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POWER Suppplies.
Skuzzy.
I know you are a stickler and pretty particular on the things. Which ones are worth looking at these days?
Seasonics? EVGAs?.....
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I've liked the EVGA Supernovas over the last few years. EVGA warranty and support can't be beat.
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You are correct. I am very picky about power supplies. As the driving DC voltage continues to drop, ripple and noise that used to be fine at 5V, is no longer acceptable at 1.5V.
The Seasonic Titanium series is about the best there is in power supplies. With dynamic load regulation it allows the supply to run cooler and cleaner when the power demand is at low levels. This is something that has plagued systems with high end video cards which pull all manner of power levels. Ripple and noise are virtually non-existent, across the board. A 12 year warranty is also pretty nice.
Most of EVGA's power supplies are made by FSP (the Supernova line, for example). They are considered an average power supply manufacturer. Nothing bad about them, just a middle of the road supply. Should be cheaper than the comparable wattage Seasonic.
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Thank you everyone for the input.
Cases.
What is with the fixation of a bottom mounted power supply? Why? Is there a technical reason for this?
I kinda prefer them to be at the top so as to provide easy and fast access to the main power switch without having to crawl under my desk.
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The bottom mounted PSU takes its cooling air from the bottom, preferably through a filter. The PSU gets cooler air that way and it also allows for more efficient air outflow from the top.
One caveat: Ensure that there's enough air below the case! Some have very low feet inherited from the older design and even the higher legged models should not be put directly on a thick carpet. A metal grid flower pot tray with wheels seems like a perfect solution for those.
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Ok here is the parts list Im leaning toward putting forth
Anyone see any problems before anyone orders anything?
CPU =
Intel Core i5-9600K Desktop Processor 6 Cores up to 4.6 GHz Turbo Unlocked LGA1151 300 Series 95W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07HHLX1R8/?tag=pcpapi-20
OR
Intel Core i5-8600K Desktop Processor 6 Cores up to 4.3 GHz unlocked LGA 1151 300 Series 95W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759FKH8K/?tag=pcpapi-20
CPU Fan/Cooler
ARCTIC Freezer 13 CPU Cooler - Intel & AMD, 200W Cooling Capacity, 92mm PWM Fan
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186039&Description=ARCTIC%20Freezer%2013%20CPU%20Cooler%20-%20Intel%20%26%20AMD%2c%20200W%20Cooling%20Capacity%2c%2092mm%20PWM%20Fan&cm_re=ARCTIC_Freezer_13_CPU_Cooler_-_Intel_%26_AMD%2c_200W_Cooling_Capacity%2c_92mm_PWM_Fan-_-35-186-039-_-Product
Motherboard = (MUST SAY 300 SERIES Compatable)
Gigabyte - Z370P D3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145048&Description=Gigabyte%20-%20Z370P%20D3%20ATX%20LGA1151%20Motherboard&cm_re=Gigabyte_-_Z370P_D3_ATX_LGA1151_Motherboard-_-13-145-048-_-Product
Video Card
Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JNUO6BG/?tag=pcpapi-20
Memory
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Memory Kit Model CMK16GX4M2A2400C14R
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233833&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Hard Drive
Seagate 2TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA2 3.0Gb/s (Heavy-Duty) Internal Desktop 3.5" Hard Drive -NAS/RAID/PC/DVR
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-7200RPM-Heavy-Duty-Internal-Desktop/dp/B01A8KTK5M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544661819&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=Seagate+2TB+64MB+Cache+7200RPM+SATA2+3.0Gb%2Fs+%28Heavy-Duty%29+Internal+Desktop+3.5%22+Hard+Drive+-NAS%2FRAID%2FPC%2FDVR
CDrom drive
Asus DRW-24D5MT Internal DVD Super Multi DL Black Optical Disc Drive
https://www.amazon.com/DRW-24D5MT-Internal-Super-Multi-Optical/dp/B019F6FV5S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544755961&sr=1-1&keywords=Asus+-+DRW-24D5MT+DVD%2FCD+Writer
Power supply
Seasonic FOCUS Plus 650 Platinum SSR-650PX 650W 80+ Platinum ATX12V & EPS12V Full Modular 120mm FDB Fan 10 Year Warranty Compact 140 mm Size Power Supply
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=SeaSonic+-+FOCUS+Plus+Platinum+650+W+&N=-1&isNodeId=1
Case
Antec Gaming Series Three Hundred Two Mid-Tower PC/Gaming Computer Case with 9 Tool-Less Drive Bays, 2 SSD, 120/140mm Fans x 2 Pre-Installed, 4 Fan Mounts for ATX, M-ATX and Mini-ITX
https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Three-Hundred-Two-Pre-Installed/dp/B006TVQTHW/ref=sr_1_38?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1544743942&sr=1-38&keywords=mid+tower+case+with+fans&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
OR
ROSEWILL ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case, supports up to 400 mm long VGA Card, comes with two fans pre-installed - Front 120 mm Fan x 1, Rear 120 mm Fan x1 (TYRFING)
https://www.amazon.com/ROSEWILL-Gaming-Computer-supports-pre-installed/dp/B01BITI11G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8
Windows operating system
Windows 10 Pro 64-bit - OEM
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832588491
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Looks like the 8600K would be a safer bet for that motherboard. According to Pcpartpicker.com the 9600 may need a bios update at least.
Another thing I noticed was that the HDD was of the 3 GB/s type instead of the faster 6 GB/s but for what I quickly studied that doesn't create a bottleneck.
Other than those it looks like a good working horse for years to come.
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I would lean towards a DVD drive, rather than the CD. There is a lot of software available on DVD today.
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I'd go for the 9600K paired with a good Z390 motherboard, not the outdated 8x series/Z370 combo (new one has soldered heatspreader, Z390 better USB)
For memory get 2666 speed at least but 3000 should also work in OC mode
SSD as system drive is missing, 250/500GB MX500/860EVO
PSU is good enough with 550W
If you have an old/valid Win7/8 license you may still upgrade to win10 for free
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If you have an old/valid Win7/8 license you may still upgrade to win10 for free
This
If you do have a good valid license, you should be able to to do a full completely fresh Windows 10 install.....
If you can't find the MS software download tool, so you can download whatever complete OS.iso files you may want or want to try (everything MS has to offer )....then shoot me a pm or email
Might could save you some money
TC
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funny about storage drives, i have a 1tb hitachi drive i bought when i had my first build, then got a 500 gb drive. when i upgraded 4 or 5 years ago i bought a 250 gb ssd. for some reason i cant recall, i disconected both drives and only use the ssd. i dont really save anything on my computer so the ssd is always been enough.
anyway the ssd i put it outside of the case on my carpet, i kick it just about everyday since the computer is right next to my feet. would you believe that ssd has never failed. i put it on the carpet just to see how long it would last. it still hasnt fail.
semp
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I'd go for the 9600K paired with a good Z390 motherboard, not the outdated 8x series/Z370 combo (new one has soldered heatspreader, Z390 better USB)
For memory get 2666 speed at least but 3000 should also work in OC mode
SSD as system drive is missing, 250/500GB MX500/860EVO
PSU is good enough with 550W
If you have an old/valid Win7/8 license you may still upgrade to win10 for free
Z390 motherboards seem to be about twice the price too! LOL
Im just going to go with the 8600. Anyone buying me parts is going go by whatever list I provide and I dont want to get into a scenario where If you buy this specific part as opposed to that specific part then you have to get this specific part for this or that one for that. If I could mix and match without too many issues it would be one thing but I am dealing with non computer geeks who may or may not talk to one another
I did pick a DVD drive. Musta misread it.
"Asus DRW-24D5MT Internal DVD Super Multi DL Black Optical Disc Drive "
From what I am gathering reformatting one of the partisans on my old system and installing win 7 to run a dual boot system on it isnt a great idea?
if thats the case Maybe ill just use my existing unused Win 7 software on this. .
Ok that being said this is the new list
CPU =
Intel Core i5-8600K Desktop Processor 6 Cores up to 4.3 GHz unlocked LGA 1151 300 Series 95W
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0759FKH8K/?tag=pcpapi-20
CPU Fan/Cooler
ARCTIC Freezer 13 CPU Cooler - Intel & AMD, 200W Cooling Capacity, 92mm PWM Fan
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835186039&Description=ARCTIC%20Freezer%2013%20CPU%20Cooler%20-%20Intel%20%26%20AMD%2c%20200W%20Cooling%20Capacity%2c%2092mm%20PWM%20Fan&cm_re=ARCTIC_Freezer_13_CPU_Cooler_-_Intel_%26_AMD%2c_200W_Cooling_Capacity%2c_92mm_PWM_Fan-_-35-186-039-_-Product
Motherboard = (MUST SAY 300 SERIES Compatable)
Gigabyte - Z370P D3 ATX LGA1151 Motherboard
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813145048&Description=Gigabyte%20-%20Z370P%20D3%20ATX%20LGA1151%20Motherboard&cm_re=Gigabyte_-_Z370P_D3_ATX_LGA1151_Motherboard-_-13-145-048-_-Product
Video Card
Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6 GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JNUO6BG/?tag=pcpapi-20
Memory
CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) 288-Pin DDR4 SDRAM DDR4 2400 (PC4 19200) Memory Kit Model CMK16GX4M2A2400C14R
https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820233833&ignorebbr=1&nm_mc=AFC-C8Junction&cm_mmc=AFC-C8Junction-PCPartPicker,%20LLC-_-na-_-na-_-na&cm_sp=&AID=10446076&PID=3938566&SID=
Hard Drive
Seagate 2TB 64MB Cache 7200RPM SATA2 3.0Gb/s (Heavy-Duty) Internal Desktop 3.5" Hard Drive -NAS/RAID/PC/DVR
https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-7200RPM-Heavy-Duty-Internal-Desktop/dp/B01A8KTK5M/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544661819&sr=1-4-fkmr0&keywords=Seagate+2TB+64MB+Cache+7200RPM+SATA2+3.0Gb%2Fs+%28Heavy-Duty%29+Internal+Desktop+3.5%22+Hard+Drive+-NAS%2FRAID%2FPC%2FDVR
CDrom drive
Asus DRW-24D5MT Internal DVD Super Multi DL Black Optical Disc Drive
https://www.amazon.com/DRW-24D5MT-Internal-Super-Multi-Optical/dp/B019F6FV5S/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1544755961&sr=1-1&keywords=Asus+-+DRW-24D5MT+DVD%2FCD+Writer
Power supply
Seasonic FOCUS Plus 650 Platinum SSR-650PX 650W 80+ Platinum ATX12V & EPS12V Full Modular 120mm FDB Fan 10 Year Warranty Compact 140 mm Size Power Supply
https://www.newegg.com/Product/ProductList.aspx?Submit=ENE&DEPA=0&Order=BESTMATCH&Description=SeaSonic+-+FOCUS+Plus+Platinum+650+W+&N=-1&isNodeId=1
Case
Antec Gaming Series Three Hundred Two Mid-Tower PC/Gaming Computer Case with 9 Tool-Less Drive Bays, 2 SSD, 120/140mm Fans x 2 Pre-Installed, 4 Fan Mounts for ATX, M-ATX and Mini-ITX
https://www.amazon.com/Antec-Three-Hundred-Two-Pre-Installed/dp/B006TVQTHW/ref=sr_1_38?s=electronics&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1544743942&sr=1-38&keywords=mid+tower+case+with+fans&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011
OR
ROSEWILL ATX Mid Tower Gaming Computer Case, supports up to 400 mm long VGA Card, comes with two fans pre-installed - Front 120 mm Fan x 1, Rear 120 mm Fan x1 (TYRFING)
https://www.amazon.com/ROSEWILL-Gaming-Computer-supports-pre-installed/dp/B01BITI11G/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8
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Just because there's an alternative featuring the faster bus for just a tenner more: https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Constellation-ST2000NM0011-Cache-Enterprise/dp/B01DXBKIRW/ref=pd_sbs_147_2/142-5834944-8484525?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DXBKIRW&pd_rd_r=7c167a11-0042-11e9-8d13-d5ed4d8cec35&pd_rd_w=A9r9R&pd_rd_wg=aMFYZ&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=Q8TJFFWM2YWC4EJ6WA5Z&psc=1&refRID=Q8TJFFWM2YWC4EJ6WA5Z (https://www.amazon.com/Seagate-Constellation-ST2000NM0011-Cache-Enterprise/dp/B01DXBKIRW/ref=pd_sbs_147_2/142-5834944-8484525?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01DXBKIRW&pd_rd_r=7c167a11-0042-11e9-8d13-d5ed4d8cec35&pd_rd_w=A9r9R&pd_rd_wg=aMFYZ&pf_rd_p=7d5d9c3c-5e01-44ac-97fd-261afd40b865&pf_rd_r=Q8TJFFWM2YWC4EJ6WA5Z&psc=1&refRID=Q8TJFFWM2YWC4EJ6WA5Z)