Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Hardware and Software => Topic started by: WhiteHawk on November 12, 2003, 01:10:43 PM
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Just started to overclock a bit. Saw my CPU runs at 38C during normal operation and 55C during AH load. My default high setpoint for warning is 85C. Is that too hot for a HI setpoint?
System info below
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They say anyting above 60C is PC-unfriendly
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It's a bit warm, but a Pentium 4 will clock throttle itself if it thinks it's getting too warm. (That can happen at around 60C on a P4.)
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yep above 60 deg cel look out ... mine are all set to shut down at 60 deg cel.
50 deg cel or less is my attempted limit ...
i have one pc running at 52-54 cel . its a case/psu problem i think.
all the rest run under 50
when its comes to aggressive OCing you should go with water cooling my mix is 75% distilled H2O with 25% water wetter added
(race car antifreeze non corrosive)
http://www.redlineoil.com/frames/watrwet.htm (http://www.redlineoil.com/frames/watrwet.htm)
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hmmm..yea, my case didnt come with a radiator so I have to be a bit conservative on my OC'ing.:)
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Nawww, here's what you do.
Open the case..
Grab a window fan..
Place window fan next to case, blowing in..
Keep on high.
:D
Overclock to your hearts content then!
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Originally posted by Rutilant
Keep on high.
Or even keep on low, if you have one of those cheap $10 20" box fans. Those things put out about 2000 cfm even on low. And the noise is a little less. :)
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as i recall, XP chips are designed to operate at temps up to 73c.
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Originally posted by ebgb
as i recall, XP chips are designed to operate at temps up to 73c.
thats what the AMD site says ... but no one ever lets them run that hot ... (just go into a local pc repair shop and tell them your AMD is running at 60C and watch the look you'll get )
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Originally posted by ebgb
as i recall, XP chips are designed to operate at temps up to 73c.
I was getting some instability with my XP 2000+ running around 65C. A new video card (9500 Pro) did that, and required me to finally retire my old Inwin mini tower for an Antec tower that has two exhaust fans. It now idles around 49C at the cpu.
mauser
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Yea..I think I'll invest in some extra case cooling, 1 blowing out behing the mother board where the CPU is and one blong in on the motherboard beside the chip. Mine is running at 58C with very little OC'ing.
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Originally posted by Rutilant
Nawww, here's what you do.
Open the case..
Grab a window fan..
Place window fan next to case, blowing in..
Keep on high.
:D
Overclock to your hearts content then!
hehe rut, as my boss would say, "well, that would work, but its very unprofessional!"
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I had an XP 1800 . It would lock up at anything above 50oC. I wondered what the hell was up for MONTHS till I cooled it some more. Reinstalled windows, drivers etc etc not believing my coolermaster case etc could be too hot. It was. I went through hell! Watch those XP chips. I think some of them don't like hot at all!
Jeez. I learned if you get hard lockups at all, look at heat first.
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I've been having an lockup problem also...xp here...haven't notice any heat problems but is there a way to chart cpu temp over time?
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im learning things ever day. now how do you check cpu temp?
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either get a program that monitors temp in windows ,
buy a temp gauge set with the probes ,
or just go into the system bios /hardware monitor page.
if you use the bios , its good to get used to checking it once a week or so ... check when the fans are freshly cleaned also , so when you check every week or so if its on the rise that ussually tells ya your fans are getting dirty.
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Read this link it is more relevant to you than anything else anybody has stated here.
It was posted by Abit and directly relates to your combination of motherboard and cpu.
Anybody posting info relating to AMD XP processors has dropped the plot as they are well known for being more susceptible to overheating problems.
Intel have designed the P4 Cpu's to shut down at 134 degrees C now presumably thats because they know up to that point they will survive.
Abit say they are ok up to 75 degs C at full load with your board.
http://forum.abit-usa.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11496Based on the test in our lab with following conditions, the average CPU temperature in idle state is below 50 degrees C (122 degrees F); meanwhile; it is below 75 degrees C (167 degrees F) while heavy loading. The CPU temperature is affected by room temperature, chassis temperature, CPU fan and other heat source inside the chassis. If the reading is higher than our data, please consider doing some improvement for heat dissipation.
- Room temperature: 25 degrees C (77 degrees F)
- Chassis temperature: 35 degrees C (90 degrees F)
- A good chassis with two 12 CM system fans; one draws air into the chassis and the other exhausts hot air outside the chassis.
- A strong CPU fan
The "CPU Shutdown Temperature" in "PC Health Status" page could be enabled and set to 90 degrees C (194 degrees F). In case there are something wrong with the system like CPU fan stops or drops off from CPU retention unit, the ACPI compatible operation system could shut down itself to prevent the system crash and other damages. But, if the operation system fails to shut down, there still be a final insurance that CPU will turn itself down at 135 degrees C (275 degrees F) and the system will be powered off immediately.
The statement that we draw,
"When the CPU junction temperature reaches approximately 135 degrees Celsius (275 degrees F), the processor will turn down itself. That is, we can say the CPU is quite safe if it is less then 135 degrees Celsius (275 degrees F)." is safe to say according to Intel Spec. sheet.
Now having said all that i changed my intel cooler to a Zalman CU 7000 (Copper) and knocked 10C off my temps, you can get better coolers but the noise emissions climb alarmingly.
I now idle at 43C when previously it was 54C. and thats with 1.65v to the cpu, standard it runs with less than 1.48 volts.
And overclocked from 2.4 to 3.0g
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MOTHERBOARD MONITOR -
Great free prog. It reads out both Diode (BIOS) and CPU die temps as well as Hard drive and case temp. Also gives fan speeds, voltages, CPU speed and usage. Seems to be quite accurate IMHO. CPU temps match my cheap Comp USA aftermarket temp probes and BIOS. Fan speeds and volts match BIOS.
http://mbm.livewiredev.com/
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Whitehawk, I had the same temperatures on my XP2800+. I eventually got a Thermalright heatsink and got my CPU temp down from 55 deg C to 40 deg C. Arctic Silver V was used as the mating compound.
I originally tried the extra case cooling but it made hardly any different. Go for the new heatsink!
Check out http://www.thermalright.com/
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thnx guys. I am idle at 41C. So i guess I am ok. I still need advice on OC'ing tho.
I set my agp/pci to 'fixed' and try to enter in a CPU clock. I can get 210, but anything over that I get serious unstability.
It says 'enter in a DEC number?? Is that got to be dependant on another number.
E.G. if I try 220 It boots but locks up at desktop. The same w 215. Ive read of this setup being overclocked to 3.5. Im just trying for 3.0GHz
(Dont ask me why, this beach screams at regular clock)
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Your gonna be just fine at that temp even under a heavy load and slightly aggresive OC I doubt it will ever get over 50-54 C .
as for over clocking .. it just depends on what you need to do with your pc .. if it runs great and your happy with it then dont mess with it . it will last longer this way .
my work pc I oced because of its program demands .
I play around with a couple of spare pc's ocing them up and down mostly just cause i like to tweek and learn with them .
my gammer and the old ladys pc stay close to where the best performance/stability is .. which is close to stock clocking .
(and yes guys i know the intel cpu's withstand higher temps then the Amd's but why let them run hot when you dont have to )
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Whitehawk--
What are your CPU/RAM voltages set at?
BTW, Abit has released a "fix" for that Vdimm bug on the Max3. But it looks like it is still only half a fix. VTT still isn't fixed, looks like. :(
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CPU is 1.5V (I think) RAM is 2.8. I know there is a problem with my board at levels over 2.8 so that is where I stay.
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I would try upping the CPU voltage a bit. THe max3 seems to undervolt, so setting the voltage to 1.55 or 1.6 may not be a bad idea.
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ya. I upped it to 1.55 but it still locks up under a load. I will go to 1.6V and see what happns.
I still have my ram set at 2.8. It really screws up at 2.9. The voltage fluctuates between 2.89 and 2.99, and spikes at over 3 which sets of an alarm ibn my hardware doctor. I dont know if this is the defect in the board or something else, but I am forced to keep RAM at 2.8 for now.
210 FSB is all I can squeeze out of this thing right now. I am not sure what the ratio option is for tho. it is set to 1:1.
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GAT settings make sure to set them to
auto
auto
auto
disabled
disabled
CPU generally undervolts for me set at 1.65 i actually get 1.6 to 1.62v
Unless you do that motherboard mod do not use more than 2.8v for the memory.
If your running at 1:1 what memory timing settings are you using ?
You may need to slacken them to get your memory operating higher.
After setting my desired FSB in setup, the lower settings i have set at by SPD and 1:1
Also PC3500 = 217MHz (433MHz effective) you should definitely be able to make 217mhz.
It may be worth while trying the 5:4 memory option as you will be able to keep your memory within operating spec and work the cpu higher.
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thnx 214. Been at it all morning. Upped my vcore to 2.6V. Then tried for 215FSB. It worked all right, except I was pushing 60C CPU Temp. Now there is some confusion about how my board reads the CPU temp. And it may be OK up to 75C, but jeez, what kinda chance does one take with that.
I really have a hard time trusting the abit techs on their BB, since they seem to be the only ones who believe in the potential of this board.
Also, could you explain 'memory timings. All I have done is set the DDR voltage to 2.8. I dont recall any other options for this, but I have seen number like 2:2:2:1, or something. What are these numbers?
Its strange. people with the same specs as mine claim to be running thier 2.4@3.2 and even higher?? I cant even get my 2.6 to 2.8 without big problems:confused:
But I am new and prolly overlooking something. Anyway, its a good way to spend a rainy Sunday afternoon:)
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those guys up at 3.2 are probly H2O/freon cooled also, an i bet there running a clocking program within windows ...
this gives you an finer and easier adjustment of your settings vs having to enter the bios everytime . ( ive have one of these on my pc at work along with wcpuid ) I just dont remember which one it is at the moment .
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If your memory timings are set at 2:2:2:1 that is your problem right there.
Mushkin PC3500 is rated for 2,3,3,6 for its rated speed.
If you wish to overclock the memory you will almost certainly have to relax those settings, but for starters at least make sure yours do match them.
Cas Latency 2
Ras to Cas delay 3
Ras Precharge 3
Cycle time Tras 6
A typical setting for PC4000 memory is 3,4,4,8 some can do 2.5,3,3,7
Anyway check your timings before you try anything else.
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Whitehawk--
The 2:2:2:1 is not your RAM timings. They are not listed that way in your BIOS, and they are an impossible combination anyway. Your RAM timings are listed in another BIOS page (I think it is the third or fourth one down). Set the timings to "By SPD" for now. This is where they are anyway, probably, since that is the default. The "Game Accelerator Technology" settings are on the same page. Set them to Auto, Auto, Auto, Disabled, and Disabled (as previous poster mentions).
First of all, make sure you have a decent heatsink and fan, on the CPU. Second, the 1:1 ratio is the CPU:RAM fsb ratio. You want to keep that at 1:1 for now...once you have found the highest stable clock, then you can try 5:4. The FSB number controls the CPU. So when you change to 5:4, the CPU stays the same speed and the RAM gets slower. You have to push up the FSB by 125% to get the RAM back at your previous speed, and the CPU faster.
The reason you want to try 5:4 at all is because the CPU will probably be able to overclock higher than your memory.
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thnx again guys. Ya mold that is pretty much how it is. I upped my temp warning to 62C and kept my shutdown at 65C.
I am using Hardware doctor to monitor the temps. Some people have said that this is inaccurate.
Do you know of any reliable hardware monitor programs?
I am using the stock heatsink/fan that came with the chip.
I am planning on adding 2 case fans. I already have 2, but I am not gonna go liquid.
I had a pretty good OC at 215 going. Il-2 ran nice and cool (55C), but Ah pushed it to about 59C, So I brought it back down to 210. I guess upping the vcore to 1.6V helped alot.
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Originally posted by WhiteHawk
Do you know of any reliable hardware monitor programs?
I guess you didn't try my suggestion above.
DJ229 -AIR MAFIA
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ahhh..sorry Davenrino, hehe. it wasnt an issue way up there since i had Hardware doctor doing the same thing.:) Thnx, I will try that one.
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NP,
It is a little tricky to set up but the new wizard takes care of most the settings for you. I checked and your board is supported so it should be listed in the wizard. If not, click on motherboards on the home page and you will find yours listed telling you which sensors to use. It will prolly work best if you uninstall any other hardware mointoring progs first. You have the option of displaying a lot of readings on your taskbar. I manually launch the prog and only show CUP diode temp in Systray.
DJ229 - AIR MAFIA
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Whitehawk--
59 deg is a pretty hot CPU. I would consider getting a better heatsink + fan. I have a ThermalRight SP94, which is (I believe) the best air-cooler on the market (actually, tests show that it beats all the water coolers too). But it is about $45. You can get cheaper heatisinks that will work quite a bit better than the stock one. I've heard Zalman heatsinks are pretty good for the money.
Also, keep in mind that increasing Vcore will improve your OC stability, but also increase your heat (at any given frequency). The reason overvolting works with OC'ing is due to the CPU not having time to reach logic (1) on a fast clock--with higher Vcore, the rise time is the same but the terminal voltage is higher so by the time the clock strikes, the voltage gets to logic (1) anyway (even though it hasn't reached the max voltage). So, better stability. The reason for higher heat (I think) is your basic P=V^2/R, where higher V means higher P means higher heat.
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Originally posted by mold
I have a ThermalRight SP94, which is (I believe) the best air-cooler on the market (actually, tests show that it beats all the water coolers too).
I agree that 59 is too hot , but do you really believe your air cooler beats ALL watercooling setups? Maybe some of the low-end kits. I get a 5-9 deg C rise from case to CPU temp with a moderate overclock and it is almost silent as my Dual 120mm shrouded fans turn at 1000 rpm on an external Dtek core. Granted it cost a bit more than $45, but it is worth it for the silence since my tower is enclosed in my desk and I rarely use air conditioning. I prefer my nice ocean breeze.:D
DJ229 - AIR MAFIA
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Found this at abit site,
"The way CPU temperature measured in the BIOS or in the hardware monitor is through an I/O chip on the motherboard. That I/O chip probes a voltage given by the CPU thermal diode, and then BIOS / hardware monitor reads this value and uses some mathematical way to calculate the approximate temperature. According to Intel, there is another temperature sensing diode, which is responsible for the CPU overheating protection. When the CPU junction temperature reaches approximately 135 degrees Celsius (275 degrees F), the processor will turn down itself. That is, we can say the CPU is quite safe if it is less then 135 degrees Celsius (275 degrees F).
Since the temperature is “calculated”, not “measured”, the formula which the BIOS uses will make the outcome different. There is a parameter that is provided by the I/O chip vender, which we expect it to be the standard, so we use this parameter to calculate the temperature of the processor. Once this parameter in the BIOS is changed, the temperature shown in the BIOS PC health or in the hardware monitor tool will be altered. But, in the mean time, the actual temperature of the CPU is still the same. So the temperature you saw might be higher comparing to other motherboard with the same chipset, it is because we use the different parameter to calculate the temperature. We cannot say that we are more accurate, but we sure follow the standard provided by the I/O chip vender, and we believe it should be the proper one."
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Originally posted by DAVENRINO
I agree that 59 is too hot , but do you really believe your air cooler beats ALL watercooling setups?
I guess I should have said "some tests show". :) Check out http://www.overclockers.com/articles373/ . Here the SP-94 beats all. Granted, this is with a "Pratt and Whitney 23k lbs" Vantec Tornado fan. I agree that for low noise purposes watercooling is the way.
However, I have built a fairly low noise SP-94 setup. A meager 35 db from my Panaflo 57 CFM heatsink fan. I have no case fans, only a 20" boxfan ($10 at Lowes) blowing through the case on low. I am running the CPU at 1.7Vcore (1.65V measured), and 3.5 GHz. That gives me a CPU temp of 47 deg idle, and 56 deg loaded with two instances of Prime95. And the whole thing is pretty quiet--basically, like having a box fan on low in the room with you. Not too bad.
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WhiteHawk your temps.
From this thread, just go and compare you will see for the Abit's you are not alone.
http://forum.abit-usa.com/showthread.php?s=&threadid=26860
Picked 2 to show the Abit is KNOWN for reporting higher temps than other boards.
Just because the formula they use to interpret the temps varies from other manufacturers does not mean the cpu is actually that hot.
Personally i think Abit are measuring incorrectly as temp probes seem to confirm its high by approx 10 degrees C.
On abit ic7-max3 39.5°
same set-up (fans, ram, cpu) on gigabyte 8KNXP board was 29° so im reluctant to believe how accurate this board reads ...
2.4 oc to 3.0 IDLE
Abit Max3 39.6 Case 27
Asus p4c800 26 Case 27
Stop panicking get a better heatsink fan combo than standard, and overclock the SOB.
I know banana had problems with his install but most people don't and those who do get past it, MrBlack was happily overclocking the crap outa his succesfully, (same as many others are) until his cooling killed it.
Point is its not all bad and some of the boards have no problems anyway.
The Asus board may be easier to deal with out of the box but even that board has its problems for overclocking.
OK so the Abit has voltage problems in the 2.9 to 3.2v range (which can now be cured)
But the Asus only goes up to 2.85v anyway. You can get higher than the 2.85 on the Asus but it involves a motherboard mod.
Oops theres that phrase again motherboard mod.
So now we are left with a low vtt reading on the Abit, but wait the Asus can only go to 1.6v on the cpu.
Point is none of them are perfect for overclocking, yes many review sites led us to believe the Abit was perfect in this regard, express your dissatisfaction to them.
Its obvious you are new to overclocking, as you dont even know about memory timings you need to go read up on it. I also suggest you go read up on the various Bios options and how they will relate to your overclocking attempts.
When it comes to overclocking and this applies to all, if your not prepared to put time into it learning the whys and wherefores, tinkering, and modding then perhaps you should not be doing it.
And just why is your particular motherboard a POS WhiteHawk ?
You have not had it long enough to know whether any of the problems some have are actually affecting you.
You do of course realise all of them are perfectly stable up to 2.8v for the memory which is already well in excess of the standard voltage for memory anyway.
And your memory is rated to run between 2.5 and 2.75 volts so its not really a problem.
Its a problem for those guys who buy the expensive ram rated for 3.1 volts.
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Originally posted by 214thCavalier
2.4 oc to 3.0 IDLE
Abit Max3 39.6 Case 27
Asus p4c800 26 Case 27
Either that's a typo, or there's something wrong with the Asus figures. You can never get the CPU below case temps, unless you use refrigeration. And if you are using refrigeration, should be lower than a mere 26 I'd think.
Originally posted by 214thCavalier
OK so the Abit has voltage problems in the 2.9 to 3.2v range (which can now be cured)
Nope. Vtt was and is the real problem. Still not solved, and in fact there is absolutely no indication that Abit even acknowledges the existence of that problem.
Originally posted by 214thCavalier
But the Asus only goes up to 2.85v anyway. You can get higher than the 2.85 on the Asus but it involves a motherboard mod.
Oops theres that phrase again motherboard mod.
True--but the mod is pretty easy, and at least you can actually do something about it. Furthermore, Asus never made any claim that the board could handle >2.85 volts, like Abit did. And finally, Abit undervolts--2.8 Vdimm setting is actually more like 2.75. While from what I've heard, Asus overvolts.
Originally posted by 214thCavalier
but wait the Asus can only go to 1.6v on the cpu.
True. Lesser of the two evils, I think. Especially since the Asus reportedly overvolts the Vcore as well.
Originally posted by 214thCavalier
Point is none of them are perfect for overclocking, yes many review sites led us to believe the Abit was perfect in this regard, express your dissatisfaction to them.
Not the review sites' fault. The board is supposed to run >2.9Vdimm properly, regardless of reviews. It doesn't. And no acknowledgement of the problem, let alone a fix for it. Therefore, bad board.
Originally posted by 214thCavalier
And your memory is rated to run between 2.5 and 2.75 volts so its not really a problem.
Its a problem for those guys who buy the expensive ram rated for 3.1 volts.
True.
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Originally posted by 214thCavalier
So now we are left with a low vtt reading on the Abit, but wait the Asus can only go to 1.6v on the cpu.
Oh, BTW this limitation only appears to affect the non-E version. On the Asus P4C800-E Deluxe, you can apparently push Vcore up to 1.95, without mods. Now, I seem to recall reading something somehwere saying Vcore might not be stable enough over 1.6 V. Can't find it now. Do you know where I might find information indicating the presence or lack of this?
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Not offhand no, but i have also seen the claims that its unstable over 1.6v
Its also worth remembering many claim the earlier P4C800 was an absolute dog and the P4C800-E is actually the fix.
So those who claim Asus get it right first time, are not aware of the revision history.
Its also worth noting that banana says
built a new system a month ago, spent three days trying to get the Abit IC7-MAX 3 to boot properly. Finally gave up and exchanged it for an Asus P4C800 Deluxe. Best decision I've made in a long time. Been running my P4 2.4 800fsb at 3.01 GHZ at a chilly 29 celcius at idle.
So he can overclock his 2.4C to 3.0G and still run at 29C (note close to figure of other guy above)
Looks more likely to me the Asus has a problem reporting correct cpu temps and is under reporting them.
But i guess nobody will moan about that cos its what they want to believe ?
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Originally posted by 214thCavalier
So those who claim Asus get it right first time, are not aware of the revision history.
Who's making that claim?
Originally posted by 214thCavalier
Looks more likely to me the Asus has a problem reporting correct cpu temps and is under reporting them.
But i guess nobody will moan about that cos its what they want to believe ?
If it's a problem, then it's a problem. I'm not trying to defend a purchase...I don't really give a damn about either Asus or Abit. I just want something that works as advertised, so I can make a proper decision. If the Asus has problems, and I can live with those problems, then I get the Asus. Simple as that. If the board has problems meeting it's spec'ed features, and I can't live with those inadequacies, the board goes into the trash.
Maybe some folks are OK with Vdimm >2.9 not working properly. Fine.
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Here ya go 1 link re vcore on Asus.
http://forum.oc-forums.com/showthread.php?threadid=228914&highlight=vcore
That claim was not by you Mold so you can safely ignore it.
And the Abit Vdimm over 2.8 can be fixed and some guys are reporting new boards are ok now anyway.
Vtt is another issue though.
Point is neither board is perfect, although if i was in the market for one right now i would probably go Asus.
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Originally posted by 214thCavalier
http://forum.oc-forums.com/showthread.php?threadid=228914&highlight=vcore
Thanks. Yes, this is troubling. I hope it does not become an issue for me. Actually, I don't think it will--no one in that thread seemed to be experiencing crashes due to this, and I will be doing a 1:1 OC anyway so I probably won't need more than 1.57 Vcore under load.
Originally posted by 214thCavalier
Point is neither board is perfect, although if i was in the market for one right now i would probably go Asus.
True.
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Originally posted by 214thCavalier
WhiteHawk your temps.
Personally i think Abit are measuring incorrectly as temp probes seem to confirm its high by approx 10 degrees C.
Stop panicking get a better heatsink fan combo than standard, and overclock the SOB.
Point is its not all bad and some of the boards have no problems anyway.
The Asus board may be easier to deal with out of the box but even that board has its problems for overclocking.
OK so the Abit has voltage problems in the 2.9 to 3.2v range (which can now be cured)
But the Asus only goes up to 2.85v anyway. You can get higher than the 2.85 on the Asus but it involves a motherboard mod.
Oops theres that phrase again motherboard mod.
Point is none of them are perfect for overclocking, yes many review sites led us to believe the Abit was perfect in this regard, express your dissatisfaction to them.
Its obvious you are new to overclocking, as you dont even know about memory timings you need to go read up on it. I also suggest you go read up on the various Bios options and how they will relate to your overclocking attempts.
When it comes to overclocking and this applies to all, if your not prepared to put time into it learning the whys and wherefores, tinkering, and modding then perhaps you should not be doing it.
And just why is your particular motherboard a POS WhiteHawk ?
You have not had it long enough to know whether any of the problems some have are actually affecting you.
You do of course realise all of them are perfectly stable up to 2.8v for the memory which is already well in excess of the standard voltage for memory anyway.
And your memory is rated to run between 2.5 and 2.75 volts so its not really a problem.
Its a problem for those guys who buy the expensive ram rated for 3.1 volts.
Geez..An abit sales rep???
Sorry im late w my response, but, I bought this board because it could handle upgraded components. Sure they only said it had VDIMM up to 3.2V. They didnt say it actually worked. My bad, ishould have read between the lines.
So even tho my DRAM only needs 2.5 to 2.75 Volts, should I decide to UPGRADE my DRAM to a higher caliber that requires higher voltage, or could be enhanced with a higher voltage than 2.8 V, I am dissappointed that I dont have the opportunity to do that.
Yes, I am not an advanced technician like i am sure you are. But I am learning quite a bit from my first system project. Some of us can read books and learn, some of us need to actually do it 'hands on' and ask questions. Most of the time the responses are positive and helpful. Sometimes there are responses from people who cant wait to make it clear that they are the masters of the art, and nobody else should even make an attempt, in fact there should be laws....
Why is my MOBO a POS? Because I paid at least 50% more for it with the plan that all of the advertised features worked, even though they didnt specifically say that they are guarnteed to work. It is like paying $1000 for a stereo because the box says "200 db blast!!!" , only to discover the thing is unusable over 120db, which is just barely better than the one yuou gave away, and not quite as good as the one you could have bought for $400.
Bottom line is, this board is defective. There is no in between. there are faulty cirucuts in it. The VDIMM issue is not the only issue here. abit is saying, you shouldnt be (listening to music over 120db). We are saying (Why would you advertise up to 200db, charge as if it were a 200db system and then tell us that 200db could hurt our ears, so dont turn it up so loud and you wont have a problem?) My MOBO as it is, is probably onwe of the best on the market, if the mc64 mods were done and the vtt issue were resolved, it would be what I paid for it to be.
It leaves a sour taste in my mouth to be a guienea pig. I am quite sure abit is working feverishly to fix the board. We will see if they are gonna offer it as an exchange or if it is gonna be the IC7-max4.
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Whitehawk--
The truth was revealed on the Abit boards earlier, and I'm afraid the news is not good. An Abit rep came on and said "No, we are not fixing it." Well, I got me an Asus P4C800-E, and after the Vdimm mod it is working like a charm. So the Max3 goes on ebay.
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yea..i figures that was comming. Oh well, it is a shame, or a sham. I guess I save up my bucks. This board will make a good upgrade for my wifes office puter. I guess:(