Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Aircraft and Vehicles => Topic started by: frank3 on January 21, 2004, 10:38:04 AM
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Hello fellow modellers, I have a question which, I hope, will really improve my painting skills (as for I have them):
I'm working on a P-47D-30 (1:72) and I've done some research on the internet about how to paint it. I've found this pic:
(http://www.onpoi.net/ah/pics/users/ah_68_1074702704.jpg)
Now my question, how do I make these panels look so...visible? with the panel lines abit darkend up? I use a simple (but effective) airbrush which will, I hope, do the job. It isn't ajustable in spraying size or gas pressure.
And how can I make the bolts go more visible? And the scratched paintwork between the panels on the blue nose?
These are alot of questions, I hope one will answer them.
I've got some 10 years experience with modelling but only 1.5 year with paint brushing and I want this model to look as good as this one!
Tnx in advance.
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You can look through this site for answers
http://www.hyperscale.com/
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Originally posted by frank3
Now my question, how do I make these panels look so...visible? with the panel lines abit darkend up? I use a simple (but effective) airbrush which will, I hope, do the job. It isn't ajustable in spraying size or gas pressure.
And how can I make the bolts go more visible? And the scratched paintwork between the panels on the blue nose?
I kinda hung up my modelling gear a few years back when I had kids and discovered this virtual flying gig, but I used to do stuff like that. Got over a hundred unbuilt kits all packed away.
First the paint job. Natural metal is a ***** because you have to prepare the surface to be just about as flawless as you can possibly make it. No scratches or swirlies at all otherwise they'll all show up when you paint. I used to use either Testor's metalizer or Floquil paints. They all come in different shades but you could mix in a drop or two of black or blue to change the hue between panels.
Now the panel lines. It helps to have a model kit that has recessed panel lines to begin with otherwise you're sanding a whole lot more in the prep stage and re-scribing them in yourself. Once the kit has been painted and *dries completely*--I'd let it sit for a week without touching it so that it fully cures. Longer if you use enamels, otherwise you'll put fingerprints into the paint job. You have some choices here. One is to draw the lines in with a very small mechanical drawing pen or pencil. Another is to apply a "wash" of very thin water based black paint. this method is a bit faster and once you get the hang of it looks just as good.
To do the wash get a bottle of some water based acrylic black paint and thin some of it down with water. Take a small flat brush and just slop it around the area you want to mark. Do one area at a time. Now wipe most of it off with a tissue. The idea is to leave some of the paint in the panel joints while wiping it off the panels themselves.
Don't try and do this with an enamel. The idea of using water based paint is that it won't react with the hardened finish that you painted on the model and if you don't like what you've done you can just wipe it all off and do it over. Once you've applied an enamel wash its pretty much there.
The scratched paint can be done with a silver colored artist's pencil available in most art/hobby stores. Just make little "chips" where you want them. Don't overdo it. Less is more.
Best thing is to accumulate as many pictures of your subject as you can. That way you'll have a better idea of the effect you want to accomplish.
Good luck.
Drano
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That sounds very good Drano! But what you're saying is that I first have to coat the plane with the paint (in this case the metalic) and when it's dryed, I will have to mix black acrylic paint with water (what proportions? 30% paint : 70% water?)
And then just strike it all over the panels with a little brush.
Won't the paint immediately stick to the plane?
And what do you mean with 1 area at the time? 1 panel? Or 1 wing for example.
Will the bolts be done the same way? with the water wash?
It's got a nice simple ring to it! it might just work.
Tnx very much guys!
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a water based paint is easy to wash off and will eventually stick to the paint that you just put on the model. It has to cure just like the other paint does. So immediately after you apply the water based wash is the best time to do touch up and redo anything that you don't like.
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Tnx chaps, i'll give it a try.
But what if the panel lines aren't curved inwards? (so there are no panel curves, but them sticking out?)
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Originally posted by frank3
Tnx chaps, i'll give it a try.
But what if the panel lines aren't curved inwards? (so there are no panel curves, but them sticking out?)
That was what I was getting at when I was saying panel lines that were not recessed would need extra prep.
Panel lines that stick up=raised
Panel lines that "curve down"=recessed
The ones that stick up(raised) are a bear to deal with, especially on a natural metal paint job. So much so that I'd advise buying another kit that *has* recessed panel lines on it. Usually the case is the kit you have is either on the old side or is a cheapie. Newer kits almost all have recessed panel lines because of advances in mold making technology.
If you wanted to still do it with the raised line kit Its not impossible but its gonna be a lot of extra work. You'd have to sand off all of those raised panel lines being very careful to not sand off any of the raised detail you might want to keep--like bolt and rivet heads. When that's done get a *ton* of reference photos as you'll need em for the next step! Get yourself a nice scribing tool and re-scribe *all* of the panel lines in yourself. Seriously--that's the only way. And then continue as I suggested in my other post.
Oh and you can make those bolt and rivet heads pop out with either the wash or pencil methods. Just be sure to not overdo it. Less is more.
Drano
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I see, but my P-47 has recessed panel lines luckely:)
Now this: How shall I mix the black paint with the water? 1:1? Or alot more water? I assume it's the last.
And as I look closer, the panels don't seem to have the same color? Or are do I see that wrong..
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partly. often the good modelers will use various shades to get that effect, done by various methods.
partly it's due to the lighting effects.
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Ah, so I don't have to worry about that while painting. Thanks!
And another question: How can I make the panel lines more visible with a dark base paint? (Like dark green)
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Originally posted by frank3
Ah, so I don't have to worry about that while painting. Thanks!
And another question: How can I make the panel lines more visible with a dark base paint? (Like dark green)
They get the different colored panels by first spraying on a base layer of an aluminum color. Then they mask off some of the panels and re-spray them with the same color with a drop or two of either a blue or black paint it in. When the masks are removed those panels have a differnt hue than the ones next to them. The masking can be very tricky. Use low tack masking tape--get the least sticky stuff you can get. I also use another material called Parafilm M. Its kind of a waxy saran wrap stuff that really doesn't have an adhesive but conforms and seals to most surfaces really well leaving no residue when removed.
As to making the panel lines darker that goes to my "less is more" statement. Use a thinner mix or a shade of a dark grey instead of black on a metal finish. Go ahead with black on a camo finish. Honestly I forget how much I used to thin my washes down. Want to say it was pretty thin. 5 or more to 1 water to paint.
Drano
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Another simple way to get scratches like on the cowling pictured is to take the cowling, apply natural aluminum first, then after it dries, coat it with mop and glow, then, after that is done, paint the final color on. After it dries, rub the cowling in the spots you want wear marks, and the paint will flake off leaving realistic scratches. This method takes a bit of practice though.
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What's mop and glow?
So....basically it takes 3 coats to get smthng like this??? wow :eek:
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I used this method (http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/tnt1/001-100/TNT026_Chalk_Washes/tnt026.htm) to good effect on an F-14 I have been working on:
Before decals and weathering:
(http://webpages.charter.net/mathmanahs/f14paint4.jpg)
After decals and weathering:
(http://webpages.charter.net/mathmanahs/f14topleft2.jpg)
I like this method as it is very easy to correct any mistakes and adjust how dark or dirty you want the panel lines and the weathering. Just make sure that you have a glossy finish. I use Future Floor wax to get a nice gloss coat prior to decaling. I then seal the decals with a clear coat (flat or semi-gloss/satin - hate gloss on a model, makes it look like a toy). I then do the weathering and go from there.
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Originally posted by frank3
What's mop and glow?
So....basically it takes 3 coats to get smthng like this??? wow :eek:
Mop and Glow is floor polish....
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Nice looking work Math
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Nicer then any model I have ever done Math. Very sharp work.