Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: United on February 02, 2004, 08:27:19 AM
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I just got myself some new models, a P-61 and the Wright Flyer, and then realized that the P61 recommends airbrushing. I went digging in the shop and finally found my airbrush. Its been so long since Ive used it I was wondering if you all had any tips and tricks on how to use it.
I'm gonna use Testors Enamel Paint. (I think that makes a difference?)
Thanks in advance for any help.
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I like the acrylic paints a lot, but they dry pretty fast.
Also, thin the paint down ( with the correct thinner for that exact paint) to a consistancy close to milk and spray light coats to build up the finish.
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Definitely go with acrylics. I prefer to prime with flat enamle, then go over with acrylics. I have an airbrush but don't use it. I'm too lazy to buy a can of propellant for it; too cheap to spend the money on a compressor.
Which Wright Flyer you building? The Revell one? I got that one for Christmas but haven't gotten into it yet. Gotta finish up an astronaut diorama I'm working on, then a race car diorama I'm designing, and then an old Monogram P-51B Mustang that I might use in a diorama as well.
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Originally posted by gofaster
Definitely go with acrylics. I prefer to prime with flat enamle, then go over with acrylics. I have an airbrush but don't use it. I'm too lazy to buy a can of propellant for it; too cheap to spend the money on a compressor.
Which Wright Flyer you building? The Revell one? I got that one for Christmas but haven't gotten into it yet. Gotta finish up an astronaut diorama I'm working on, then a race car diorama I'm designing, and then an old Monogram P-51B Mustang that I might use in a diorama as well.
Yes the Wright Flyer is Revell, they both are actually.
The P-61 I have isnt depicted as a night fighter, so it doesnt have just the black coat, its shown as having an olive drab top and a ghost gray bottom. Its actually not a bad paint scheme.
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remember to thin it to the consistency of milk...
practice.
let the paint dry at least 48 hrs before you handle it again or you may burn fingerprints in it.
wash the plastic in mild detergent and let dry before painting.
easier to handle parts for painting *if* you can leave them on the sprues and touch up after you cut them off.
some people prefer the acrylics... personally i use the enamels. i like model master (upscale testors).
start the spray *before* you start your pass and keep it going until you go past the end.
don't spray too close or too far away.... running or splattering may result.
2-3 light coats over a few days would be better than trying for one coat all at once.
use a compressor (and hopefully have a moisture trap and regulator). co2 tank would be next option, followed last by canned air.
always, always clean the tip and nozzle after you're done.
be willing to strip the paint job if you're not happy with it.
if you're gonna mask any parts, use low-tack tape.
you might want to finish it off with a coat of dullcote... glosscote can make it look too "toyish."
there's more that i can't think of atm... but here's a good geenral idea site... http://www.angelfire.com/oh3/pmodels/paasche.htm
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Originally posted by United
Yes the Wright Flyer is Revell, they both are actually.
The P-61 I have isnt depicted as a night fighter, so it doesnt have just the black coat, its shown as having an olive drab top and a ghost gray bottom. Its actually not a bad paint scheme.
Oh yeah, that's the standard paint scheme for USAAC aircraft. I might have to break down and buy a compressor to do my 51B right. Either that or dry-brush thinned olive drab over the grey to create a blurred effect (not as nice as the airbrushed technique, but looks ok).
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if you're gonna buy a compressor.... *don't* buy one from the local hobby/craft shops.... total rip off... running $270+
find a local place like this..... (or use this place, they ship i beleive)
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=34843
i bought it with a regulator *and* moisture trap, on sale for like $70. and it can deliver up to a constant 50psi....
actually this place had quite a few things that i found useful for model making. mini needle files, mini pliers, dental picks, tweezers.... etc etc
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Great tips.
I have a really nice airbrush and compressor, but have not had time to use them. When I did I was so out of practice I just made a mess.
LOL it also convinced me acrilics are the way to go, getting oil based paints of of yourself and the walls sucks, not to mention how much of a pain it is to clean off the airbrush and patio table!:D
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I think some of the very best in airbrushing technique can be found at playboy.com :D
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Dont even buy the compressor shane showed you.
The best hobby compresor in the world is sold at Wal-mart of all places. No joke! They have this small compressor with a one or two gallon air tank and regulator for $99 ($79 on sale very often ). Its a quality unit and delivers much more reliable and useful air supply than a low cost compressor with no tank. Dont even bother with propellant cans.
Its made by Campbell Housfeld and the excat same unit is sold at Home Depot Stores under the Husky Brand.
http://www.chpower.com/
As for paint, my favorite paint is Gunze Sangyo Acrylic. I thin it 50/50 with 91% Isopropyl alcohol. Its by far the best as it goes on very thin not obsucring detail, dries reasonably fast, and best of all cleans up with windex. In fact you can strip a fully painted and dried model with windex if you mess up. Much better than having to use nasty thinners or easy-off oven cleaner with enamels..
My favorite airbrush for a begginer would be the Iwata Revolution HP-CR. Yes its dual action AB but its really easy to use and produces awesome results with gunze paint at 50/50.
Revolution HP-CR Gravity feed $60 at this place, free shipping too. :)
http://dixieart.com/Iwata_Revolution_Airbrushes.html
Anyway so for about 140-160 bucks you can have a first class airbrush/compressor setup that should last you for years and years. Plus the compressor can be used for small air tools or to inflate tires or toys.
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http://www.chpower.com/catalog/catalog_detail.asp
This little guy?
Always wondered, how do the small air compressors with no reservoir deliver a steady supply of air instead of a series of pulses?
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Originally posted by GRUNHERZ
Dont even buy the compressor shane showed you.
The best hobby compresor in the world is sold at Wal-mart of all places. No joke! They have this small compressor with a two gallon air tank and regulator for $99 ($79 on sale very often ). Its a quality unit and delivers much more reliable and useful air supply than a low cost compressor with no tank.
Its made by Campbell Housfeld and the excat same unit is sold at Home Depot Stores under the Husky Brand.
http://www.chpower.com/
Grun, you are correct.
I bought my compressor at Wal-Mart for $80.00 and it has a nice air tank. I woud not get a compressor without an airtank of some sort.
Here are two examples of my models that I've posted before:
http://www.hitechcreations.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=95334&highlight=tamiya
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Nice NMF on the P51!
What airbrush you got and which paints you like?
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I use a Paasche H single action and have had some good results with it. I just recently finished an F-14 in a hi-vis scheme from the 70's.
I used to be a die hard enamel fan, but have started using acrylics. I have had some good luck with Tamiya, Gunze and Model Master. I use Tamiya white primer when I need something white (it covers very well with 1-2 coats depending on the color of the plastic/primer underneath it).
Here is a pic of the the F-14, prior to completion (no gear or fiddly bits like formation lights and pitot tubes added at this point). One of these days I will take a picture of what it looks like since its been finished.
(http://webpages.charter.net/mathmanahs/f14topleft2.jpg)
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Thing about the more expensive compressors is that they are very quite and well suited for indoor use. Thats about the only real difference. No matter what air compressor, you'll need a good moisture condensor as well also known as a water tap.
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Originally posted by GRUNHERZ
Dont even buy the compressor shane showed you.
The best hobby compresor in the world is sold at Wal-mart of all places. No joke! They have this small compressor with a one or two gallon air tank and regulator for $99 ($79 on sale very often ). Its a quality unit and delivers much more reliable and useful air supply than a low cost compressor with no tank. Dont even bother with propellant cans.
Its made by Campbell Housfeld and the excat same unit is sold at Home Depot Stores under the Husky Brand.
http://www.chpower.com/
Thanks for the tip! I'll look for it next time I'm at Wal-Mart picking up model display cases for dioramas. I know Wal-Mart also carries the Testors airbrush. What's the opinion on that airbrush?
For paint, I've tried Tamiya, Model Master, and Poly-Scale Model Railroad paint. MM is the best of the three, particularly for brush painting. Poly-Scale is a bit thinner but that means you'll be brush painting 3 coats. Tamiya is absolutely horrible to brushpaint; its too thin and has piss-poor paint adhesion.
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You mean the Testors Aztek line? I dont like them because they are made out of plastic and people have a bunch of problems with them. Testors offeres a lifetime parts replacement warranty and people use that a lot I hear. Stick with a good metal airbrush.
Check out the Iwata Revolution HP-CR I recomeneded. For $60 you cant go wrong. I love this one beacuse its so simple and straightforward and does a great job. Its a double action design but really easy to learn and use. The gravity feed design makes it spray better and clean up is much much faster.
You could also try the single action Paasche H, a bit simpler to use abut can still do a nice job.
I would avoid thec aztec line and the paasche VL. The VL is very rough and imprecise - I think the Paasche H is actually more useful.
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Guys, if you can find the stuff use Parafilm M instead of masking tape. It stretches, sticks to itself, and comes in a good-sized roll. Just stretch it out and wrap around the part, then paint 'er up. The best part is you can use it on previously painted surfaces without pulling the paint off. I used it on a C-47's invasion stripes a year or so ago and the stuff is pure magic! After doing the stripes I masked them off with Parafilm and painted the rest of the wing. When I pulled the film off it didn't pull up the stripes at all. Last time I tried that with Lo-Tac tape half the paintjob came up. It only runs about $4 a roll to boot.
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http://www.aircraftresourcecenter.com/TnT_Archives/Airbrushing.htm