Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Aces High General Discussion => Topic started by: nopoop on April 14, 2004, 10:11:07 PM
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I feel the need to switch to USB flight controls with XP.
Thinkin CH. Need rudders, throttle, and stick. Give me some opinions and addresses. Not going TM this time..
I haven't had anything to argue with Beet in a couple weeks. Goin through withdrawels. Have to get back up flyin, but I need the equipment...wanna fly beta with the juice..
Can I keep my analog TM rudder pedals with USB ??
DSL comin this week also..
Stocked up on cheap beer for the build.
...upgraded my electrical service to handle it.
I'll wear safety glasses and rope off the construction area with that yellow tape where it takes a twenty five yard walk to read..
I've been advised to contact my electric company prior to firing it up..
..to avoid a brownout.
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Originally posted by nopoop
I haven't had anything to argue with Beet in a couple weeks. Goin through withdrawels. Have to get back up flyin, but I need the equipment...wanna fly beta with the juice..
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.
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...to avoid a brownout.
LOL! I love arguing with you guys. I'm still here! :aok
But I've just had a large coffee, and I feel the need for a brownout of my own. Coffee does that to me! ;)
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I love my CH USB stick and throttle, nopoop. Spring forces are very light compared to the TM HOTAS but much more accurate IMO.
I use gameport CH pedals as well. You only need a small utility called joyclick to be able to calibrate them without having to plug in a gameport j-stick. I wasn't able to use the toebrakes tho, they drift constantly (dunno if the TM pedals have toebrakes btw...).
Go for it, you won't be disappointed
EDIT: i'll post the link to D/L joyclick this evening if you need it.
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Is there a way to increase spring forces ?
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nopoop,
I was all analog untill about a year ago. I replaced the pots on my stuff all the time to get smoother input.
When you go to USB your jaw will drop to the floor. All input lines on the test scope are straight and flat. They don't wiggle around, not even a bit. Get the USB CH rudders. Sure, the may cost $100, but they will be good for 5 years or more.
I have CH USB Pro; rudders, throttle & fighterstick. A year after buying them they all still produce flat lines and work perfectly. You can't afford that lag that comes with deadband and dampering your rudder inputs. You'l miss a lot of shots with analog, and if you drive trucks at all from the gunners position, porked rudders will throw you all around.
Ditch all analog (or save em for parts-switches, etc.)
eskimo
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nopoop,
I found away to convert my TM Elite rudder pedals to USB using a gameport-to-USB adaptor from Radio Shack. I just plugged the pedals into the adaptor and set the selector switch to "Wheel".
The adaptor is about $15 US. I currently have the pedals plugged into my Cougar but was experimenting with different setups while it was down with a bad throttle pot.
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...and another thing, Nopoop. Don't spend too much. Because you'll still suck at the end of it. :lol
j.k. ;)
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CH Fighterstick, Pro Throttle, Pro pedals... flawless operation, easy programming, lots of pre-made maps to use or modify. I dumped my Cougar after getting screwed around trying to get a replacement pot for 4 months.
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Originally posted by straffo
Is there a way to increase spring forces ?
Yes, you simply put larger rubber o-rings in. Here is a post I have save regarding the process (I never bothered doing it).
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From "Bob Howell" :
On the bottom of your stick, you will see four small Phillips screws.
There are four more hidden under the little rubber foot pads. The only
thing that holds the pads on are little patches of double-sided sticky
tape. You can safely pry out the pads with your fingernails or a
screwdriver. You'll probably ruin the sticky patches, but you can cut
new ones off a common roll of double sided Scotch tape. Otherwise, I've
found the exact same rubber pads with the sticky attached at most larger
arts and crafts stores.
Once you get the rubber pads off, remove all eight screws and, while
holding the stick upside down, gently remove the base. Don't be afraid
of having something fall out of place that you won't be able to get it
back where it belongs. About the only thing that can slip loose is a
little plastic keeper that helps hold the throttle potentiometer in
place. If it does come loose, it's easy to get back in place and it can
only fit one way. Also, don't be concerned that you will do something
to void your warranty. If you read the documentation that came with
your equipment, you will see that CH encourages owners to go inside
their equipment to attempt to repair problems before sending the
equipment back to the factory.
Once inside, you will be amazed at how simple the unit is designed and
constructed. You will also see how the X and Y stick axis are
controlled by two small springs, each attached to plastic posts. Now,
as I said, you don't have to monkey with the springs. In fact, you
don't even have to remove them. Instead, I recommend using little black
rubber o-rings to do the job. They can be stretched over the posts to
bolster the spring tension.
The o-rings to which I refer are those commonly found at most plumbing
supply and hardware stores. They cost a few pennies each and come in
all different sizes and thicknesses. It is simply a matter of finding
the right size to do the job and give you the feel you want. I
recommend starting with #23 o-rings. One #23 on each set of posts will
bring your handle tension about halfway between that of a stock
Fighterstick and a Thrustmaster. The tension will be very close to
those Saiteks you used to destroy. Two o-rings on each set of posts
will pretty much match a Thrustmaster. I recommend one #23 on each set
of posts. The little buggers are also much tougher than you would
imagine. They are made out of pretty sturdy rubber and I've never had
one break. If and when they do, it is a simple matter to open up the
case and replace them.
With one set of #23s, you probably won't feel a significant difference
while you've still got the unit in pieces. Most likely, you will be
tempted to stretch a second set on. Don't. Once you've put the base
back on and played around with it for real, you will note that one set
of o-rings gives you a lot more tension than you thought and firms
things up quite nicely. Remember that your Fighterstick is much lighter
in overall weight than a Saitek or a TM. If you install a radical
increase in tension, you are going to have to strap the thing down to
keep it from moving about. Besides, it's an easy procedure to open it
back up and add more rubber!
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a big thank Icer !
It will piss a bit my wife and lighten my pocket of 180 € :D
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i loved my ch pedals in air warrior..they just dont feel right in AH for some reason. I just cant get used to them. They are great for buffs and gv's though. I love the fact that i can gun without erroneus yaw input from twisty stick. Does anyone have suggestion to make my pedals feel more natural? With the settings I have one little touch with a toe sends my plane jerking wildly left or right
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http://www.provantage.com/<<<<<<<<<
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Originally posted by jaxxo
i loved my ch pedals in air warrior..they just dont feel right in AH for some reason. I just cant get used to them. They are great for buffs and gv's though. I love the fact that i can gun without erroneus yaw input from twisty stick. Does anyone have suggestion to make my pedals feel more natural? With the settings I have one little touch with a toe sends my plane jerking wildly left or right
For any questions about CH Gear/Programming/Etc. go to Revvin's site ...
http://www.ch-hangar.com/
Great site and support ... right from CH employees.