Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: AWMac on August 18, 2004, 06:48:48 PM
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Since the recent unforeseen death of my MS sidewinder FF2 JoyStick. I have been thinking of the X45 as a replacement.
But it seems as thought it might be too complicated having the Throttle separated from the Stick itself.. Is it difficult to load, play and get use to well?
All advice is welcomed.
MacMAW
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Originally posted by AWMac
Is it difficult to load, play and get use to well?
havent meet anyone who got it up and running alone yet. once up and understood, there is no substitute
Originally posted by AWMac
play and get use to well?
takes a few months to get the "twisty" out of your head, and fully understand how to use rudder seperatly
i have never used a cougar, or CH, but have seen them. personally i like the options of the x45 better. i use rudder pedals, so i ahve the "rudder" on the x45 to move my head side to side. amazing for watching 6. i love it.
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I've used the X45 system for a couple years now (though not in the last couple months!0
Go to their website and get the refurbished X45. $39.00 you can't go wrong. If you don't like it, you're not out a ton of change.
I wouldn't fly with anything else personally. I was first turned onto the X36 at the 2000 con, and haven't used anything but Saitek since. (The X45 came out in 2001 I believe..)
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Originally posted by JB73
havent meet anyone who got it up and running alone yet.
<
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Originally posted by Ripsnort
Go to their website and get the refurbished X45. $39.00 you can't go wrong.
or best buy and for $7 take it back every few months for a new one, for that "fresh joystick" feel.
hey they offer it, and for my money im going to use it.
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Thanks JB and Rip,
I was thinking X45 and later on maybe some CH Pedals... *One step at a time*
Just seems wierd having fire buttone on the throttle.
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I use the CH Pedal Pro's with X45 set up. :aok
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I like how you think JB.. LOL
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Originally posted by Ripsnort
I use the CH Pedal Pro's with X45 set up. :aok
exact setup lol
mac.,. hehehehhe
the "fire" button on the throttle can be whatever. dont forget there is about 90+ buttons that can be programmed (setup in advanced mode as a virtual keyboard NOT DX buttons.)
my big button on the throttle is look up, then i only use 1 hat for views. the other 3 are 4 way, with 4 differend "buttons" on each.
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I use an X45. No pedals. I have no problems with it. Bout the only thing is the stick gets a bit stiff..little bit of silicone spray on a Q-Tip works well.
Its a nice feel :)
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I have been using the X45 for about 1 1/2 years and it is great.
once you get used to the 2 stick setup you will never want to go back to your old twisty stick:aok
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I'm running Win98se, and I just let Windows load the joystick, then set it up in AH. I don't mess with the Saitek Programing.
It's the easiest stick I've ever set up.
-Sik
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best buy and for $7 take it back every few months for a new one, for that "fresh joystick" feel.
Not only the fresh feel, but a working hat switch as well. Loved my X-45 but three dead hat switches in nine months was too much.
Found a little used X-35 at a garage sale for 10 bucks. All the same features as athe -45 but with out the 55 chevy 3/4 ton coil spring on the bottom of the stick. We'll see how long the hat stays healthy.
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I use that d fire button for wep myself.. you can set it any way you want.
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X36 analog
X36 USB
many X45's
easy to setup and easier to use
let me know if I can help
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I got an x45 last Friday but could'nt get the rudder smooth it was either full on or off . Any idaes as to why that is. I tried the in game rudder sliders no help.
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Originally posted by Sikboy
I'm running Win98se, and I just let Windows load the joystick, then set it up in AH. I don't mess with the Saitek Programing.
It's the easiest stick I've ever set up.
-Sik
you are missing out on the best part of the stick.
i only use 2 modes now, fighter and GV, but used to be 1 for bomber too. only reason i need to touch my keyboard is to type, or zoom in out the map.
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Got an X45 that's been sitting in my garage for a year. Is there any way to set the elevator trim to the rollers on the throttle?
I use a MSPP and the only way it's worth it for me to change is if it can be set up that way.
I'll still have to buy pedals, can't use that pincky switch rudder that it comes with.
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Been taking my Cyborg apart about once a week to keep the hats working. Tempted to go to the 45, but Im holding out for the release of the X-52
(http://www.dabs.com/images/uk/products/GamepadsJoysticksWheels/362Q_large_150x150.jpg)
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I know a store (EB)that has a MS FFB2 still in stock. $150 canadian...Let me know if you still want this stik..can pik it up for you if you still want FFB.
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Originally posted by Lazerus
Got an X45 that's been sitting in my garage for a year. Is there any way to set the elevator trim to the rollers on the throttle?
one of the biggest improvements in AH2 is the ability to map the trims to rotors as they are now assigned an axis just as yaw,pitch and roll were in AH1.
Inside AH2 in the jstick coonfig just assign the trims to the rotors you want.
I have my rudder trim on the front throttle rotor, elevator trim on the thumb throttle rotor and alieron trim on the rudder rocker as I use CH Pro Peds for rudder control.
works great
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Originally posted by akkobek
I got an x45 last Friday but could'nt get the rudder smooth it was either full on or off . Any idaes as to why that is. I tried the in game rudder sliders no help.
what OS are you using?
What does it look / act like in the windows jstick calibration windows? Is it smooth or all/nothing there?
If it looks screwing in the windows cal window, maybe you have a flaky stick.Can you switch it out for another?
If windows is smooth & its just messed up in AH...
Are you sure it is mapped as an axis in the Saitek software and not a banded keystroke command?
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Originally posted by RedTop
I use an X45. No pedals. I have no problems with it. Bout the only thing is the stick gets a bit stiff..little bit of silicone spray on a Q-Tip works well.
Its a nice feel :)
Where EXACTLY do you put the silicone on the stick? I have the same problem.
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Originally posted by Curval
Where EXACTLY do you put the silicone on the stick? I have the same problem.
on the stick, below the sprint showing there is a round piece, that is convex. it "glides" around inside a piece on the base. that's where you put the silicone.
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between the bottom of the spring cup and the hollow it swims in
powdered graphite works well also
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Originally posted by JB73
on the stick, below the sprint showing there is a round piece, that is convex. it "glides" around inside a piece on the base. that's where you put the silicone.
Hmmm...I was advised to use graphite lock lube on that area, as the silicone would eventually eat away the plastic.
The graphite lock lube sucks though.
We are talking about the same area I hope...underneath the "convex" right...on the stick that stays stable and is attached to the base?
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yeah, though i have only seen it done, wiht just a tiny ammound rubbed on with a qtip.
i just take mine back to Best buy when it gets like that LOL
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Cut the spring a turn at a time until u like the way it feels.
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Originally posted by storch
Cut the spring a turn at a time until u like the way it feels.
i like the resistance, wish it was a bit more lol.
but we're talking about over time the base "sticks" in it's basket or whatever you want to call it. taking the spring out totally it would still "stick" because there is gunk rubbed into the plastic.
BTW cruval...
make sure to clean in there first. some good rubbing alcohol on a q tip, or cotton. hold the base away from the cradle and clean it real good. then keep them seperated to dry.
after about 5 min add the silicon
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Will do JB..thanks.
Yea Storch, I feel the same way as JB..I like the tension but the sticking, particularly when trying to make minor corrections can reallt affect one's performance when flying...particularly in gunnery.
I find the stick "groans" when the "sticking" occurs. The groan is the sound of plastic scrapping plastic and/or metal.
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Originally posted by Curval
Will do JB..thanks.
Yea Storch, I feel the same way as JB..I like the tension but the sticking, particularly when trying to make minor corrections can reallt affect one's performance when flying...particularly in gunnery.
I find the stick "groans" when the "sticking" occurs. The groan is the sound of plastic scrapping plastic and/or metal.
I cut two rings off of mine it it hasn't stuck once, one year three months later. The X45 before lasted me three months. I messed it up attempting to unstick it by cleaning with rubbing alcohol and lubricating it with silicon. I purchased it at Best Buys and opted for the two year no questions asked warranty on it. It still is a little difficult to line it up for the fine shots though.
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Originally posted by storch
I cut two rings off of mine it it hasn't stuck once, one year three months later. The X45 before lasted me three months. I messed it up attempting to unstick it by cleaning with rubbing alcohol and lubricating it with silicon. I purchased it at Best Buys and opted for the two year no questions asked warranty on it. It still is a little difficult to line it up for the fine shots though.
Hmmm....you know then of what we speak.
Does the spring come off without having to unscrew anything?
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Originally posted by Curval
Hmmm....you know then of what we speak.
Does the spring come off without having to unscrew anything?
If you pull down (compress) the spring you will find that the top of it is flat like in order to apply equal pressure. I took a pair of very good quality dykes (Klien tools) and cut just where the spring is visible. with great patience, no beer and much profanity fashioned a similar top ring using the cut one as a model. I used a needlenosed pressure plier to hold the spring and an 12" button plier to bend the spring to a flatter angle. It took me quite some time to do as the sping steel is quite hard. I didn't want to dismantle the stick. though it was difficult to do the results justified the trouble for me.
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I'd mess that up for sure.
I might TRY if I had a spare stick but given that I have to import the X45 as you can't find them here I think I'll keep plugging along with the silicone etc.
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Originally posted by Curval
but given that I have to import the X45 as you can't find them here
hurricanes, can't buy property for tax reasons, no decent Joysticks....
is there a good thing about bermuda?
ROFL
hehehe JK i seen the pics or your totally cool house, and the scenery.
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Originally posted by JB73
hurricanes, can't buy property for tax reasons, no decent Joysticks....
is there a good thing about bermuda?
ROFL
hehehe JK i seen the pics or your totally cool house, and the scenery.
hehe...I can buy property here and the US....just won't do the latter for reasons already explained.
You have a point on the hurricanes and j/s though.
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Originally posted by GScholz
I have a Cyborg EVO (use it with the X45 throttle). What's the problem with the hat switch? What do you do to fix it?
Guess I should have said cyborg 3d gold. My hat is used so much the button contacts of the switches have actually worn groves into the shaft of the hat. These grooves cause dead spots after they become so deep from not depressing the switches fully.
A good long term fix on my last cyborg 3dg was putting small beads of glue in the grooves with a hot glue gun. Seem to have misplaced my glue gun, so I have been wraping over the groves with electrical tape when the dead spots reappear.
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Originally posted by Murdr
Guess I should have said cyborg 3d gold. My hat is used so much the button contacts of the switches have actually worn groves into the shaft of the hat. These grooves cause dead spots after they become so deep from not depressing the switches fully.
A good long term fix on my last cyborg 3dg was putting small beads of glue in the grooves with a hot glue gun. Seem to have misplaced my glue gun, so I have been wraping over the groves with electrical tape when the dead spots reappear.
Try a product called JB Weld you will find it at home depot. It's a polymer and will bond very well with the plastic.
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hehe. yea, Im in construction jb-weld or pc7 is something i always have around. Considered it, but everytime I think of it, I want to use my stick 'right now'. Will have to try to remember to do that when I know I wont be flying till the next day
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Will have to try to remember to do that when I know I wont be flying till the next day
They also have a 15 Minute version called JB Kwik.
I use it at work (Automotive) to do fast repairs.
Try it ,You'll Like it.
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Thanks for the tips. After the 2 hour drive I just returned from, I decided to use automotive body putty. I already have a supply and it is ready to sand in 15 mins.
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Greetings every1 :) It's very true that eventually silicon will be detrimental to plastics, the best solution is to go to RADIO SHACK
& purchase a lubricant friendly to plastics, I did & never looked back. Name is "RadioShack Multi-Purpose Lube Gel" net Wt. 3oz.
Cost is $3.99, doesn't attract dust, works in -45^ to +450
degrees F, it works on almost any product. Model plane builders & Model plane fliers use it a lot. Item # 64-2326 or 64-2826.
:aok
Cheers,
Happy1 :D