Aces High Bulletin Board
Help and Support Forums => Help and Training => Topic started by: HavocTM on May 20, 2005, 09:05:52 AM
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Two+ years and I still can't figure out how to get rid of that nasty nose bounce.
Is it my calibration or am I a spastic dweebtard?
Thanks for any help!
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Could be, I mean your calibration. :D
Try increasing your damping in your pitch axis. Increase be small amounts and test it.
Another thing I do is when I'm going to have to pull up into a bandit for the shot is apply a slight amount of node down trim. It helps me to keep from over pulling the nose up.
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Thank you, I will give that a try.
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It's not calibration, its dead band. I can't claim to understand why pitch dead band has anything to do with nose bounce, but it does. Turn dead band down and nose bounce will go away (or will change). I flew 'way too long' with nose bounce before someone on this board pointed out deadband affects nose bounce.
Do a search on nose bounce and dead band to see more info.
Regards,
Malta
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cool thank you
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When you say turn dead band down do you mean slider to the bottom? My nose still bounces with it to the bottom. But I think I AM a spasz. I've found dampening to help. But I still can't hit anything unless im 200 away.
Peace
Pillur
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(http://www.hitechcreations.com/ahhelp/images/jscal.gif)
dead pan slider to bottom = off
same with damping
up = on
just the opposite for the 0 through 90 sliders
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This is just about exactly how I am setup..
maybe i am just spastic.
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Originally posted by HavocTM
This is just about exactly how I am setup..
maybe i am just spastic.
It really depends on your stick. Increase deadband and dampning and see if it works.
Every stick is different. You have to find the "sweet spot" for your stick.
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Originally posted by HavocTM
This is just about exactly how I am setup..
maybe i am just spastic.
this is the default taken from AH help page:
http://www.hitechcreations.com/ahhelp/images/jscal.gif
my stick is a usb saitek, both X45 and X52 were set the same way:
0 - 90 sliders all the way to the top
deadpan and damper all the way to the bottom
with those settings it is a 1 to 1, you move the stick and it moves immeditely.
It worked great with the X45 but I think I need to adjust them some for the X52 as it it a lighter stick to start with
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I have deadband turned off or maybe just slight above off. Try turning it off and see what happens. Deadband, per my understanding, is intended to eliminate pot/signal spikes due to worn or older pots on your joystick. Why that has anything to do with nose bounce is beyond me, but it does.
Just to clarify, nose bounce is when you release/recenter your stick and the aircraft nose oscillates in the pitch axis. Even with nose bounce reduced, stick inputs must be done smoothly to eliminate oscillation. Increasing dampening 'forces' smooth inputs but removes the option for quick movements.
Regards,
Malta
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I still have nose bounce and it's incredibly annoying when you're trying to give it just that little bit and the nose takes off :(
I'm sure my biggest problem is the Logitech 3D stick. I have gotten it to a somewhat stable condition but still not acceptable for getting a good guns soloution, I have to more or less spray, there's not much I can do to aim at a specific area.
When I started, just a week or so ago, I was ready to move on because I felt the game was unplayable. What I did though is go into the calibration of the controller in the control panel of Windoze, then I calibrated in AH, monkeyed with the damping and the sliders and it's now bearable, if not acceptable. I'll be going for another stick next month. I can't justify the money for CH stuff after spending hundreds on wheel and pedals for Nascar online, my wife would turf me and the computer out the door, LOL. So I think the Saitek will be my choice. I haven't heard the Saitek guys whine too much about nose bounce :)
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I loved my Sidewinders but they are all either worn out or broken.
Saitek EVO now, which is nice...
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CH gear fixed my nose bounce problem, I was a MSFF2 user prior.
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I suspect there is no universal answer to eliminate nose bounce and is stick dependant. I found, using a CH USB Fighterstick, setting deadband slight above off and adding 15% dampening reduced nose bounce almost completely. Using default deadband always caused noticeable nose bounce with dampening below 50%. I don't like dampening above 25-30% due to the slowed control response.
Definately adjust your deadband setting while flying and see what works best. I had no clue deadband had such a significant effect until I read that here in a thread and tried it! Good Luck!
Regards,
Malta
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note that you want to change the pitch axis, in the screene you see the roll axis selected.
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Dead Band is used to kill spiking due to old or dirty potentiometers (pots) on the stick. While it's not a delay what it does is move the beginning point of the pot from dead center to a point further in the stick movement. It is very easy to check for spiking. Just move the stick around and look at the + in the blue boxes. If it looks like you having an 8.0 quake when you touch the stick then your pot is spiking. If it's going to spike you will notice it when you first move the stick. You can sometimes increase the dead band to a point past the spot on the pot that is causing the spikes and continue flying. Ok, if you have no spiking more the slider all the way to bottom.
Damping delays the time it takes for you stick input to actually move the control surface. You normally need to adjust the damping up a little bit when your controls lock on you and you then see the message "don't move your stick so rapidly". The actual cause might be because yer flying along and "ping ping ping.". You yank the stick out of reflex which is way to fast and before you can ease off the pressure you get the message. The damping will delay the control movement allowing you to ease off before before you get lock up. You only want to move the damping slider up enough to stop getting the message.
A simple way to get rid of nose bounce is to go back up and take a look at the slider pic posted above. That is the default setting.
Take the 0 (zero) slider on the left and move it all the way down. Then take the rest of the sliders and adjust them until it looks like the same, "staircase" going up from lower left to (90) to right, as the default set.
Then take a look at the top left window "roll" click on the lil arrow in the window and goto "pitch" and do exactly the same thing.. If you have rudders do the same.
When you complete the changes go down "calibrate stick" and do that. Get up and fly and you should see a big difference.
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i had serious nose bounce with ms sticks; loved the ms stick itself, but replaced them with saitek x45 and 52; both saitek sticks were very smooth with no bounce.
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Hi guys! Im new and I have been hanging out trying to learn a few things on here before I take my flying online. I have to thank you guys too for the help I read here has gotten me off the ground after a lot of frustration. Does everyone go through this?
I tried all of these suggestion and couldnt get anywhere with it. I finally sat down and hashed it out on paper the best I could and the process I came up with seems to work really nice. I think speed is pretty important in fixing the problem. If I set my stick up in the middle of my planes speed range then I get less bounce no matter what Im doing but if I make adjustments at really high speed or really slow then it dont work as good. I turned all of the 0-90 sliders to 100 and then turned damping and deadband off altoghther. I get in the air and up a few mistakes high and turn autopilot on. If it doesn't stay on I increase deadband until it does. Then I fly level until my plane is at what I think is the best turning speed and with autopilot off I slap the stick to the rear position and let go really fast. The nose bounces until dampening is set right. I move the sliders on dampening up until the the nose doesn't bounce at all. It still bounces when Im on the low edge of flying but I suppose thats to be expected. Not that I would know.
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Motto, it it helps when you finally come on line drop by the Traingin Arena (TA) and join me as an observer. You can decide how much nose bounce I have and compare it to what you''ve been able to achieve.
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There is another factor at work here, a very common problem yet rarely perceived.
Havoc, by any chance do you use any level of gunzoom while shooting at the target? Because, fine tuning plane movement during zoomed-in status will exaggerate the effects of stick movement.
I for one, need glasses and don't have good eyesight. I use a 17" monitor and still can't really make out a silhouette of a plane when the distance marker is further than 400. Only inside 400yards, I can really see the whole of the target plane to aim at normal head/non-zoomed position. For many other reasons than just eyesight, a lot of people use zoomed in views to confirm the position of the enemy plane. Many of these people also prefer to shoot at the enemy plane while the view is zoomed in.
However, they will soon realize that shooting at the general position of an enemy plane with an unclear view in the unzoomed position(where you can't really make out the silhouette fully), will more often than not offer better results than being zoomed in (and having a clr view of the plane).
This is because, the ratio of nose movement between the zoomed in and unzoomed in views is different even with the same amount of pitch control.
For instance, if a very slight stick input will change the aiming point by about 1cm in an unzoomed view, if you are zoomed in by double the same stick movement will change the aim by 2cm. So what typically happens, is that people zoom in, aim at the target, and then think to themselves "let's change the aim by 1cm and then I will have him"... except as you most slightly pull the stick the nose pitch will change by 2cm and your aim thrown off 1cm due to overcontrol.
The distance is closing, you are getting anxious, you try to correct the aim.. and the more you try to correct it, the more the aim is thrown off and the nose seems to "bounce around".
It's the exact same thing with rudder control(which is very important in aiming, too). Aileron control is uneffected by zoom, since there is no distortion in relative distances in the roll axis whether or not the view is zoomed in.
To be able to fine control your pitch/yaw axis while zoomed in, you have to meddle with the stick settings so that the sliders correspond to very very small amount of pitch movement - except, if you do this, it may be easier to aim, but controlling your plane during normal flight becomes much more harder.
Thus, the best way to avoid the "nose-bounce" in this case is;
1) if you have good eyesight, get used to shooting from unzoomed position
2) if you have bad eyesight, get in really close to the target(under 400, preferably when the distance marker shows '200')
3) or, practice positional estimation and defelction shooting, so you can pick a point where the enemy plane will pass, zoom in, and then shoot there... so you don't have to 'tracking' the target with the gunsight at all(which, by tracking him, will force you to fine tune aiming more and more)
In my case, I've given up shooting over 400yd marker, so I get within the distance where I can see the enemy plane clearly without having to use zoom. I use zoom only when I am shooting at stationary targets, like enemy planes escaping by level flight(I'll zoom in fully in this case, and if my plane has nose mounted machine guns, will try to hurt him upto until 600~800. If my plane has wingarmament, I just give up), or when strafing GV with IL2 or Hurri2D, or when attacking ground targets.
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Originally posted by HavocTM
Two+ years and I still can't figure out how to get rid of that nasty nose bounce.
Is it my calibration or am I a spastic dweebtard?
Thanks for any help!
Try this stick.cfg and see if it helps you some. It was made to address the nose bounce and to allow me to fly closer to the edge of the envelope.
Ack-Ack's stick scale (http://479th.jasminemarie.com/modules.php?op=modload&name=Downloads&file=index&req=getit&lid=16)
ack-ack
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Yes, that could be it. Usually I follow the plane down to about 600 and then use zoom.
I will try not zooming and see if that helps.
Thanks!
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Granted some sticks are a lot tougher to work with than others.
The thing to remember is that those stick scales are a visual representation of your stick pull. IE if you could "slice" a pull from center to straight back into 10 slices.
Then were the slider is set for each "slice" determines how much input you have for that spot. Setting those sliders to the top across the board means 100% deflection.
So even if you just lightly pull back the stick, your going to get 100% up elevator.
Setting them all to the bottom would mean you have virtually no input at all.
So the secret is balance, between no control/too much control.
In my experience too much control too close to center = nose bounce. And yes Zoom does magnify the problem.
I also looked at AckAcks settings. From one quick look I can tell you 2 things.
1 He has a good joystick, not oversensitive, but responsive. CH gear?
2 he has a light hand on the stick.
His pitch settings start midway up and climb from there. Fine for an old hand with a light touch.
Not necessarily ideal for a new comer with yank & bank tendancys.
Visualise a rope or chain running from your hand (high right) to the ground (low left) It will naturally take a low curve, starting right on the ground. It will gradually climb for half the distance.
Then it will climb quickly in a smooth curve to the top right.
Now set your sliders to look like that curve. You've got low input in the center for very fine control. But yank the stick back & you have 100% of possible input.
Once thats done for pitch, check deadband. (wiggle stick around inside the springs, with pinky finger) If you see little spikes or curves in the blue window you should add a smidge of deadband, remember to check colors to see which axis needs it.
Roll I like to leave at default, but it can be tweaked to be a bit more agressive than pitch. Roll ussually won't stall you out, or ruin a shot like a jerky pitch will.
Last, if you have a twisty grip joystick, go to rudder. Set deadband up a bit in here. So that you have to twist a fair bit to kick in rudder. You'r not getting rudder input in a turn when you don't mean to.
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Well that settles it then.
The wife is gonna have to cough up some cash for a CH stick and that nifty new Throttle Quadrant they have with the switches for flaps, gear etc.
Now, who wants to tell her?
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Originally posted by DamnedRen
Take the 0 (zero) slider on the left and move it all the way down. Then take the rest of the sliders and adjust them until it looks like the same, "staircase" going up from lower left to (90) to right, as the default set.
Then take a look at the top left window "roll" click on the lil arrow in the window and goto "pitch" and do exactly the same thing.. If you have rudders do the same.
When you complete the changes go down "calibrate stick" and do that. Get up and fly and you should see a big difference.
Ren, isn't that the same as the "default" setting?
Max
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Ooopps...nevermind. I get it O to 90
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Originally posted by Alky
I still have nose bounce and it's incredibly annoying when you're trying to give it just that little bit and the nose takes off :(
I'm sure my biggest problem is the Logitech 3D stick. ...
So I think the Saitek will be my choice. I haven't heard the Saitek guys whine too much about nose bounce :)
Replying late in the game here, BUT...
I went through 3 Logitechs. They were crap. I got a Saitek X45 and it is nice, no problems to speak of. I think the biggest problem w/ the Logitechs is having the twist-stick rudder (which I understand is on the new Saitek :( ). Probably messes with all the sensors after a while with my patented "Death Grip" flying style.
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Originally posted by XrightyX
Replying late in the game here, BUT...
I went through 3 Logitechs. They were crap. I got a Saitek X45 and it is nice, no problems to speak of.
I just picked up the Saitek X45 with the throttle unit. It's really smooth and a lot less nose bounce. Now I need to figure out how to use all the buttons & switches, a bit overwhelming. There's little to no info from Saitek about it :(
I wonder if there's a site somewhere that has that kind of info.
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JOYSTICK RECOMMENDATIONS:
El Cheapo - Saitek Cyborg Evo USB $40
Top Shelf - CH USB Fighterstick, USB Throttle, USB Pro Peds +/- $225
If you go with the Evo, buy it from a source that offers a replacement plan...chances are you'll need to replace it between 6 - 12 months.
btw...I scaled according to Ren's suggestions...works VERY well.
DmdMax
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Originally posted by Alky
I just picked up the Saitek X45 with the throttle unit. It's really smooth and a lot less nose bounce. Now I need to figure out how to use all the buttons & switches, a bit overwhelming. There's little to no info from Saitek about it :(
I wonder if there's a site somewhere that has that kind of info.
Just program them through AH. I tried the programing through the Saitek utility, but somewhere way back when, Skuzzy told me that none of the extra "hats" were actually hats, just buttons. So I just programmed them in AH. Much easier that way.
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Originally posted by XrightyX
Skuzzy told me that none of the extra "hats" were actually hats, just buttons. So I just programmed them in AH. Much easier that way.
I've been trying to do that but the game doesn't recognize a lot of the stuff on the throttle unit or the 2nd hat on the stick. Am I missing something here?
Does someone have a stick map with those things defined that I could try?
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Originally posted by Alky
I just picked up the Saitek X45 with the throttle unit. It's really smooth and a lot less nose bounce. Now I need to figure out how to use all the buttons & switches, a bit overwhelming. There's little to no info from Saitek about it :(
I wonder if there's a site somewhere that has that kind of info.
X45 AH profile (http://www.pogbird.com/X45)
the above profile is setup for external rudder pedals, put is a start
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Originally posted by Alky
I've been trying to do that but the game doesn't recognize a lot of the stuff on the throttle unit or the 2nd hat on the stick. Am I missing something here?
Does someone have a stick map with those things defined that I could try?
There are many sets floating around but I'd suggest you learn to set any and all buttons yourself. If something happens to your computer you need to be able to big changes or fine adjustments.
SKuzzy is the sharp one when it comes programming. All buttons be it hat or plain buttons can be programmed. You just have to sure you "set all inputs" then each and everysingle button is activate and can be programmed to whatever you want.
If you'd like aquick lesson on setting any button we can do it in 15 minutes.
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Originally posted by DamnedRen
You just have to sure you "set all inputs" then each and everysingle button is activate and can be programmed to whatever you want.
Ahhh... that must be the step I was missing :)
It seemed like I could only use the Saitek profile if I wanted the use of all the buttons & hats, I'd rather just set them in the game, I know how to do that :D
Thanx, gonna go do the "set all inputs" and try it :)
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Alky to allow the 2nd hat (either on a stick or throttle) to be "seen" by AH...here's what ya do...
Goto the "Select Joystick" window of the joystick setup on the clipboard. With your cursor, highlight (darken) the input device from the center window which has the 2nd hat switch, then select Hat 2 from the left side window, and select hat switch from the right side window. The trick is to have all three dark at the same time.
Now click on "set input"> apply> OK.
Next open the stick mapping window. The 2nd hat should activate as you thumb around it. Use those activated areas as you would a button box to assign function.
Holler back if that doesn't work, or make sense. :)
DmdMax
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To reduce nose bounce you can increase your dead zone but not the damping.
I had nose bounce when having to much damping but I've a setup pretty wierd all my sliders are at 100% with a full CH setup.
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Overall, I'd have to say that the X-45 has the best combination of capabilities and price and (after having disassembled the stick grip) it's sturdily made and has an excellent "buttons to dollar" ratio. There are only two downsides I've found. The centering mechanism needs to be regularly lubed and I've worn out the #1 hat switch (and the design doesn't allow replacement). Because the switch doesn't work to check six I now just keep enemies in the windscreen. :D
I see a bit of nose bounce with the stick and have played with the settings but have ended up using the default settings except reducing dead band as others have described. The only adjustment that I haven't heard mentioned is the rudder control where I reduced the control authority (i.e., made the curve very shallow and flat for the first half and then ramping up to full authority) which makes it easier to make small corrections but still allows me to snap the plane around when I really need to. The biggest change I made was the hardest and that was to relax the "death grip" a bit and use good technique. A light touch works well with this stick. Bounce is worsened by trying to "hold" the pipper precisely on target. In additon to relaxing your grip change your targeting process a bit. Don't try to hold the pipper in a single position by pulling and pushing on the stick. This is forcing the control system to pass back and forth over the stick center and dead zone as well as changing the direction of the force you're applying. Pull to place the pipper ahead of the target (or slightly above a target when you're on his six), let it settle for a second, and then relax your pull slightly and allow the pipper to naturally fall to the target. Squeeze the trigger as the pipper passes over your intended aimpoint. This keeps forces in one direction (pull) and only requires changes to the degree of pull, not reversal. It also helps if you have a bit of nose-down trim. Most of the fighters in AH (when using CT) will nose-up at high speed. It's very difficult to push the pipper down to a target so you really need to use trim (at least for high speed passes or running someone down). Also, you should not use rudder to adjust the plain of motion (i.e., the path of the pipper) but should instead increase or decrease angle of bank to make sure the pipper goes through the target. Using rudder to point the pipper is introducing yaw, sideslip and roll which complicates smooth tracking and produces unpredictable results (i.e., you're really just spraying bullets around, not aiming them). Rudder for a quick snapshot is fine, just don't count on being very accurate using it. This is real-world stuff. I don't know if this was intentionally modeled by HT but nose "bounce" is a very real issue with aircraft, this is not just a gaming issue. The ability to "point" the aircraft (including the number/amplitude of overshoots ((bounce)), degree of damping, flight control system hysterisis, etc) is very much part of the development of aircraft and plays an essential role for any weapons platform as does the pilot's ability to overcome physical limits of aircraft design by tactics and techniques.
On the other issue that people have questioned, I've also spent quite a bit of time sorting out the stick map (mostly with success) but have had problems I can't solve regarding trim. I first tried to map the trim to the throttle quadrant trim wheels. AH recognizes the wheels, however, the wheels do not appear to provide full trim authority nor does the wheel position always correspond to the same trim position (i.e., centered wheel does not always equal centered trim). I've also tried setting the second stick hat switch for trim (left=CT on/off, Fwd=Nose down, Aft=Nose up). The problem I've seen here is that trim control is intermittent, i.e., sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks.
Mace
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Originally posted by Mace2004
On the other issue that people have questioned, I've also spent quite a bit of time sorting out the stick map (mostly with success) but have had problems I can't solve regarding trim. I first tried to map the trim to the throttle quadrant trim wheels. AH recognizes the wheels, however, the wheels do not appear to provide full trim authority nor does the wheel position always correspond to the same trim position (i.e., centered wheel does not always equal centered trim). I've also tried setting the second stick hat switch for trim (left=CT on/off, Fwd=Nose down, Aft=Nose up). The problem I've seen here is that trim control is intermittent, i.e., sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Anyone have suggestions? Thanks.
Mace
I have always used a HAT for trim. I used the forward hat on the throttle when I used an X45. My CH stick has 4way hats as well as 8way hats. I use a 4 way for trim.
(I program the pinky button as a shift button)
Up/Down = Elevetor
Left/Right=Alleron
[shift]Left/Right=Rudder
[shift] Up =CT toggle
One of the reasons you are probably seeing intermitent operation is you are using an 8 way hat. On some 8 ways you are never really sure if you are pressing left or left up/left down. Especially if there is no function on these controls. i,e, left-up does nothing. IIRC from when I had an X45 there was a way to program an 8 way to act as a 4 way. Otherwise you need to be precise in your movements of the hat.
On your broken hat switch, other than the fact that Saitek refuses to sell parts I don't see why it could not be replaced. I haven't opened the stick on my old X45 but it only seems logical to me. Irrelavent though, the last time I tried to get them to sell me a spring for the rudder control a year and a half ago they flat out refused. So I fixed it with a paperclip.:aok
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Originally posted by Mace2004
... but have had problems I can't solve regarding trim. I first tried to map the trim to the throttle quadrant trim wheels. AH recognizes the wheels, however, the wheels do not appear to provide full trim authority nor does the wheel position always correspond to the same trim position (i.e., centered wheel does not always equal centered trim). . Anyone have suggestions? Thanks.
Mace
you have to calibrate the rotors just like you do hte jstick and rudder inside AH when you use them as trim axis as they are an axis to AH and it needs to know their scale limits. Rotate the rotors thru entire range and center before applying calibration
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Clifra & Eagler, Thanks for the excellent comments. I hadn't thought about it but the #2 stick hat switch is indeed an 8-way so I'm probably not being precise enough. Also, I completely missed the calibration capability for the wheels, I'll give that a shot this evening.
I'm of two minds regarding which (wheels or hat) is superior for trimming with this setup. The hat is definently more natural (i.e., realistic) but using the wheels (even with the limitations I've had) let's me set a specific trim condition and then go immediately to those settings simply by switching CT off. For example, if I know I'm going to B&Z, simply role the pitch and aileron trim to a positon giving slight nose-down, wings-level at 450 kts but leave CT on. Search around for prey, dive, let CT help me level off on his six and as I close switch CT off and voila! no high-speed pitch-up and a dead bandit. As I climb away and decelerate then CT comes back on. Works well even though I've had problems with the settings so I'm sure I'll love it once I try your fixes.
Also, I did take the saitek apart and the hat switches are an integral part of the entire switch assembly/circuit board at the top of the switch. Each hat is comprised of four microswitches embedded in plastic and the "hat" itself actives each of the four switches individually or two at a time (to give the left-forward, right-forward...etc). Bottom line is I don't see any reasonable way to repair it...I'll probably pick up another X-45 this weekend.
Mace
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Originally posted by Ghosth
I also looked at AckAcks settings. From one quick look I can tell you 2 things.
1 He has a good joystick, not oversensitive, but responsive. CH gear?
2 he has a light hand on the stick.
His pitch settings start midway up and climb from there. Fine for an old hand with a light touch.
Not necessarily ideal for a new comer with yank & bank tendancys.
DING DING DING! Give that man a cigar! Yep, CH Hotas setup and light on the stick.
ack-ack
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Grin :)
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What do you think about using the trim axisis on the ch flight stick during flight? I use combat trim, but sometimes use the pich axis on the stick to keep the nose down. Would these axis wheels be good to use instead of combat trim?
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Originally posted by DMax
JOYSTICK RECOMMENDATIONS:
El Cheapo - Saitek Cyborg Evo USB $40
Top Shelf - CH USB Fighterstick, USB Throttle, USB Pro Peds +/- $225
If you go with the Evo, buy it from a source that offers a replacement plan...chances are you'll need to replace it between 6 - 12 months.
btw...I scaled according to Ren's suggestions...works VERY well.
DmdMax
Slight change of subject: If you are a Leftie, the Saitek Evo is the best answer for a stick, not the best on the market, but the best, leftie available. The older EVO had better button placement that the newer ones. CH used to have a good ambi/4 button stick, haven't seen them in years.
Just invest the time to find the best setup for your stick and tyle.
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The CH FlightStick Pro is ambidextrous - well real close. To be truly ambidextrous the throttle wheel would have to be in the middle. But its a pretty good stick for lefties. Its what I use. Its available from their online store for about $90.
One day, a company will realize it would be extraordinarily easy for them to corner the market on left handed game controllers simply by making them.
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(http://www.edimensional.com/images/cyberstick.jpg)
Could anyone really see themselves using this?
http://www.edimensional.com/product_info.php?cPath=999&products_id=34
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Originally posted by BTW
What do you think about using the trim axisis on the ch flight stick during flight? I use combat trim, but sometimes use the pich axis on the stick to keep the nose down. Would these axis wheels be good to use instead of combat trim?
When you are using the axis trim dials on the stick, you are not trimming the plane but rather trimming the potentiometers that control the axis of the sticks themselves. Depending on the stick and the ability of its programming software, you can program the plane trim to the dials on the stick so you will be trimming the plane and not the stick when using the dials on the stick.
ack-ack
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In the Radio Control airplane world it is common to use exponential stick scaling for pretty much all advanced flying. All those guys you see performing precision aerobatics to the guys doing the wild 3D stuff use exponential.
It provides for a "soft center" type of feeling which allows for precise minute amounts of control movement while still allowing for 100% control movement.
I have noticed that different sticks have their own "scaling" and even if you prefer a linear responce profile, you may want to tweak your settings to achieve that. The calibration tools in AH are simply the best of any flight sim I have ever played and is probably somewhat under-utilized to it's full advantage.
I run a fairly aggressive curve as I find it helps tremendously on those "straight 6" type shots. My joystick is a bit tired and it helps to smooth the inputs a bit as well. I'll probably take a smidge out of the curve when I get a new stick.
(http://www.easyracers.com/temp/stick_scaling.jpg)
g00b
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Keeping the pipper on a target that is not even wiggling much, is a little like skating on a marble. CH ctrl manager has an axis setting tool that allows you to lessen the gain (sensativity) at the apex of the "marble".
My question, is this a real world thing or a game thing?
I've never flown a real plane so have no clue. It just doesn't seem to make sense that the stick control would be te same in gross control areas as subtle control areas. It also seems the "marble" is a little exagerated, but again, having never flown I dunno.