Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: ahgod69 on October 20, 2005, 07:49:56 PM
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Just curious as I seem to be throwing away a ton of money this last summer on tires. My last set of tires were:
Dunlop SP Sport 8080E 225/45ZR17 (Front tires) didn't feed the family for 2 weeks $300
Dunlop SP Sport 8080E 245/40ZR17 (Obviously the rears) No going out to the bar for a week $400
I have eaten through the rears after putting 5K on them (fronts are looking nice with some noticeable wear). With winter coming up, I am thinking of jumping ship and looking for a good all weather ultra performance tire. But I don't think I will be going to Dunlop anymore. The Goodyears I had didn't fair much better, they lasted longer but were attrocious in anything but dry pavement.
So a change is in order. Any comments would be helpful, well usefull comments.
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Dunlop is about equal to Logitech in quality. Step up to the plate and buy a set of Kelly's. You will not be sorry.
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Originally posted by rpm
Dunlop is about equal to Logitech in quality. Step up to the plate and buy a set of Kelly's. You will not be sorry.
I had a Logitech mouse that lasted forever though lol.
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It's not actually the brand, but the type of tire you are buying. Sport versions are just that, for Sport Use. They are designed to Melt and Grip very well. That also means they don't last long at all. Interesting you mentioned the rear tires wearing quickly. A matched set should wear reasonably the same, with the front tires going out quicker due to turns. I'm betting you like to drop the clutch eh? lol
I've always done well with Goodyear Eagle GTs. Very good tire, great in rain and light snow around the Tahoe area, but not really a great tire for Heavy Snow.
Dunlop is actually a very good, but pricey tire. I run Lops on my bikes. 2 wheels is much more likely to do some damage if one goes out, and I've always trusted my hide to Dunlops without regret.
If it means anything, I've only been driving for 27 years :)
*EDIT* Side Note.
I just put tires on my wifes Camry. Only pulled 48k miles off of the front ones, Bridgestone Portenza. Been a wonderful tire. Came with the car.
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ROcrats,
Yes they are matched, but my car has this lil button I cannot stand called ACS. So I turn it off everytime I get in the car :P I used Dunlops on my ZX-6R as well, and always trusted them and never had a problem, but these for some odd reason have worn quicker then any others. Forgot to mention I upgraded my ECU chip, added a cold air intake, and a few other niceties this summer (exhaust on order, been 3 freakin weeks now).
I ran Goodyear RSA's Z rated, and they were not too pricey, 150 a piece, but any water on the road and it was a death trap. I live in Michigan, and we get our fair share of rain and snow (cept this summer almost no rain!). I will check into Goodyears again, and compare but would like to see what else is out there. Might even go a size higher on my wheels in the rear, and mount the 245/40's on the front.
My lil angel :P
And yes those are oil stains from my previous car on the ground lol.
(http://img482.imageshack.us/img482/203/2000z3coupe9gf.th.jpg) (http://img482.imageshack.us/my.php?image=2000z3coupe9gf.jpg)
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Another good idea is to not drive up in that car when you price your tires :) automatically triple the price lmao
Sweet ride!
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Originally posted by ROCrats
Another good idea is to not drive up in that car when you price your tires :) automatically triple the price lmao
Sweet ride!
Thanks, 16 years in the waiting and I finally got what I wanted. Got my first ticket in it on Monday coming from court lol. I usually go to import dealers only, as they aren't going to screw you as much as a domestic dealer.
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Might be cheaper in the long run and get another set of wheels and set of dedicated winter tires
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It is going to be hard to find a good performance tire that will have decent snow capability. You might find a good all-season that will be decent in the rain...but personally, I simply change my driving style in the rain so that I have tires with high performance in the dry.
Suggested tires (from Tire Rack):
All-Season ($ per tire):
Kumho ECSTA ASX (Fr=$92; Rr=$102)
Sumitomo HTR+ (Fr=$78; Rr=$83)
Kuhmo has an excellent reputation. I have used their tires on both street and their R-compound race...no complaints. Don't know anything about Sumitomo. If you really must have all-season, then either of these will be about as good as any other performance all-season.
Summer tires (TW=treadwear rating):
Kumho ECSTA MX (Fr=$121; Rr=$140) TW=220
Avon Tech M500 (Fr=$105; Rr=$115) TW=280
BFGoodrich g-Force Sport (Fr=$94; Rr=$105) TW= 340
BFGoodrich g-Force T/A KDW 2 (Fr=$109; Rr=$152) TW=300
Kumho ECSTA SPT (Fr=$90; Rr=$105) TW=320
Yokohama AVS ES100 (Fr=$113; Rr=$113) TW=280
The Kumho ECSTA MX is a max performance dry tire...the others are not quite as sticky but still pretty good.
I currently run the Yok ES100s...decent tire. But I may try the Kumho ECSTA SPT next. High treadwear...Tire Rack gives them decent marks for wet and dry...low price.
You may not have heard of Avon, they are new to the US for street (vintage racers have used Avon tires here for years). However, they are a very well known and old tire manufacturer in Europe. The M500 has received excellent reviews.
Tire Rack has Test Reviews as well as Customer Reviews for each tire on its website. Check it out.
Based on what you have said in your post, I would probably recommend the Kumho ECSTA SPT. Reviews indicate excellent rain handling, although you will probably be dissapointed in the snow.
BTW...what year is the car...it looks like a '99 2.8 Z3 coupe.
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Thanks Crow, will def look into these. I was thinking of getting some new wheels, 18 for the back so that may be an option for different sets of tires for the season. The car is a 2000 Z3 Coupe, 2.8 (auto). It was very hard to find, only 1 for sale up here in MI and 14 for sale when I looked online in the US. Wanted a manual, but beggars can't be choosers so I took the auto. Tire rack is where I check out tires too, funny I was at that site before I posted this lol. The car moves though, and the best thing about it is no back seat drivers :P
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http://www.tires-easy.com/start.html
I dunno how competitive their prices are, but the same company is one of the cheapest places to buy tires here.
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Consumer Reports just did an all season and winter tire comparo.
For all-season except for icy conditions, the top rated tire was the goodyear assurance tripletred. It appeared to be good except for icy braking and their sample was only $80.
Their recommended all season tire is the michelin X Radial. It hwasn't quite as good as the goodyear for snow and wet/dry traction but it was better on ice so they saw it as a better overall tire if you may see icy conditions. Their sample cost $111.
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Tend to agree with ROCrats about sport tyres (hope you don't mind if I use the proper spelling :p ) being for sport use. Are you sure your tyres are the correct hardness for the type of driving you do? F1 racing cars might use very soft tyres because they must mould to the road surface for increased grip, especially in wet conditions. The downside is that they wear out quickly. But too hard a tyre, which might be ideal in dry, arid conditions will be useless in the wet. It rains quite often where I live, so I know about this. ;)
Originally posted by ahgod69
Yes they are matched, but my car has this lil button I cannot stand called ACS. So I turn it off everytime I get in the car
I'd be very interested to know what that button does, and whether it has anything to do with 4WD or diff lock. My curiosity was piqued because some of the 4WD Land Rover/Range Rover vehicles had various ways of altering the drive. The Land Rover could be driven in 2WD only, and this was recommended where possible in the interests of minimising tyre wear! The Range Rover had a diff lock, which was useful if you had to drive across mud, but would be quite inappropriate on a dry road. Some of the up-market bimmers have some sort of diff lock device. Is ACS anything to do with that?
And, as ROCr hints, the clutch dumping style of driving will result in a drastic reduction in tyre life.
If it means anything, I've only been driving for 33 years ;);)
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beetle,
(ASC "Automatic Stability Control "sorry misspelled it now that I look at it lol) is a suspension control system that reduces engine output, until the vehicle can move or acceleration can take place, without the wheels spinning.
Turn it off and you know have instant tire degradation :P If I had a clutch I would have gone through tires a lot quicker lol. And I have been driving for 16+, just got tired of paying for tires.
My style of driving is hard and fast. If I see a set of turns on a road I instantly go for them without hesitation. Long stretch of road and I no there aren't any cops on I open it up all the way :P Governor was set at 138, after ECU upgrade that was gone, and was able to hit 145 with 400 left on rpms before I hit my old redline of 6500.
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CrowMAW posted some good stuff..
I'm also going to put one in from Tire Rack too.. Kumho's are a big plus!!
A little unknown tyre is Avon Tyres from the UK, there big here in the states for motorcycles..and I have been racing on Avons (Competition Tech-R) for a year now and I think there a good tire.
I would suggest the M550 its an all season tyre if they fit.. I'm not sure about the 245/4017's.
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AHGOD69
Rgr that about the ACS - my Golf has a similar device. They call it ESP. It dampens the drive in such a way as to reduce (but not eliminate) wheel spin. Turn it off, and there will be much more wheel spin with a "clutch dump" start. I just tried it out today, before coming back to this thread - just doing it once made me wince at the thought of what it was doing to the tyres.
The answer to your tyre wear conundrum is in three parts. - Sports tyres - as ROC put it, they are designed to "melt and grip" = short life.
- "a suspension control system that reduces engine output, until the vehicle can move or acceleration can take place, without the wheels spinning." - your car has this system, but you disable it every time you drive, even though you know that "Turn it off and you know have instant tire degradation"
- "My style of driving is hard and fast." I underlined the keyword. This surely is another contributory factor to the short life of your tyres.
I'm amazed that you're using tyres with 40/45 profile for normal road use. I would never go below 50 because if you hit a pot hole, you're going to knacker the wheel rim. Bet that's happened to you a few times. ;) I've never been to MI, but I saw how bad the roads were in IL due to extreme winter temperatures. So a change is in order. Any comments would be helpful, well usefull comments.
Sure, but you're not going to like it. If you want to see longer tyre life, you're going to have to change your driving style! :p In which case you might not need a tyre with so soft a compound as you have now. Either that, or you'll have to feed your family on grits in weeks when you buy new tyres. Jackal1 has an excellent grit recipe!
As threads go, this one is in the "gas price whine" category. "Waaaah - I have a problem. Oh wait, I'm causing it myself" But I think AHG69 has a little more class than those who drive 10mpg gas guzzlers and then whine that gas is costing them $4/gallon.
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Chris... living in Wisconsin i have a set of michelin X1 tires, they have lasted 4 years. snow, salt, and all
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I have a set of the goodyears on my all wheel drive astro. work really good for me.. and we get some really crazy weather here; full spectrum sucks bellybutton driving conditions every winter; ice, sleet, snow, slush, hard pack, powder, crunchies, everything. Never have to shovel the driveway, just get in 'n go.
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Nice ride Chris ...
If I were you ... instead of looking for a High Performance tire for the winter, I would just get myself a set of Blizzacks (or comparable) for the winter ... especially where you are.
Then during the spring ... get yourself a decent High Performance tire.
I'll bet that car has a lot of torque to the rear (hence rear tires wearing out way before the fronts) so anything outside of a blizzack ... can you say SPIN !!!
I have a set of Bridgestone S02 - Pole Position on my car (original tires that came with the car) which are a fantastic all-around High Performance tire ... sad thing is that they don't make that tire anymore. So, next season I will probably get a set of Goodyear F1 GS-D3s or Kumho ECSTA MXs.
I run
205/50ZR17 (7") front
255/40ZR17 (8.5") rear
Check E-Bay ... tons of tires for reasonable money ... I am sure you can find something there that will suffice for the winter.
Here is my money bucket ...
(http://www.furballunderground.com/Guest/100_0274x.jpg)
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Hey slap beautiful ride my man!!!! I agree my driving style is the culprit for the excessive wear. And in essence I guess I was looing for a tire that would last a little longer (and) still have the same grip. If I was going to whine about gas it would have been a month or so ago. Freakin amost 4 dollars a gallon over here lol. But the price has gone down to below 3. I will check out Avons and read up on them as well.
Slap, I was looking at those as well. 1995 Porsche Carrera Coupe, was my main interest but I called my insuance and well the BMW was a hell of a lot cheaper lol. Thanks all, it's good you get to learn stuff each day.
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I can second the nominations for both Bridgestone and Yokohama. Excellent tires and much better wear than alot of their contemporaries. I'd have to say Bridgestone has slipped a bit in the last few years, but still an excellent tire.
Still wont do squat for you in the snow though. But then you know that. :)
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We paid $900 for our tires on our truck..
Well, needless to say, I'm helpiong with budgeting now.. :p ;)
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Originally posted by Hawklore
We paid $900 for our tires on our truck..
Well, needless to say, I'm helpiong with budgeting now.. :p ;)
rofl. IF you have ever been to Michigan you would know we are notorious for having potholes tht swallow cars the size of cadilacs. Are 4 seasons consist of: almost winter, winter, still winter and road construction.
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Two words: Falken and Nitto
Buy 'em here (http://www.discounttiredirect.com/direct/home.do) and save a bunch of money. Great prices, free shipping.
I use Falken Ziex ZE-512s on Godzuki... Superior grip in wet and dry. Excellent wear as well. I recently switched my daughter's car over to Nitto NT 450 Extreme Performance tires. Again, superior performance for a very reasonable price.
By the way, they stock the SP Sport 8080E in 225/45ZR-17 at $126 with
free shipping.
If you want to go top shelf, consider the Pirelli P-Zero Rosso. Prices are similar to what you would spend on the rather ordinary Dunlaps.
235/45ZR-17 $155.00
245/40ZR-17 $175.00
Plus a $50 mail-in rebate.
My regards,
Widewing
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consist of: almost winter, winter, still winter and road construction.
LMAO!
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Originally posted by ahgod69
18 for the back so that may be an option for different sets of tires for the season.
I'm not sure I would go with the 18s on that car. If you had the S54 engined 315hp M Coupe, then you would probably be OK. But you need to think about weight and those 18s are probably going to be heavy, which will significantly reduce your performance. Remember that to get the car going forward, the engine has to spin the weight of the wheel...18s have more rotational mass whose inertia the engine has to overcome...braking will be effected too.
It can also effect handling and steering response. The rule of thumb is that 1lb of unsprung weight, ie wheels, will feel like 3-5lb of sprung weight. So if your new wheels are 3lb heavier each it is like having 36-60lb of dead weight in the car.
I agree with Slappy (nice C2 by the way Slap)...get some Blizzacks for winter. Buy the lightest 17s you can afford for mounting summer tires and run the snows on the stock rims.
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Originally posted by crowMAW
I'm not sure I would go with the 18s on that car. If you had the S54 engined 315hp M Coupe, then you would probably be OK. But you need to think about weight and those 18s are probably going to be heavy, which will significantly reduce your performance. Remember that to get the car going forward, the engine has to spin the weight of the wheel...18s have more rotational mass whose inertia the engine has to overcome...braking will be effected too.
It can also effect handling and steering response. The rule of thumb is that 1lb of unsprung weight, ie wheels, will feel like 3-5lb of sprung weight. So if your new wheels are 3lb heavier each it is like having 36-60lb of dead weight in the car.
I agree with Slappy (nice C2 by the way Slap)...get some Blizzacks for winter. Buy the lightest 17s you can afford for mounting summer tires and run the snows on the stock rims.
Crow thanks for the tips, something I didn't know. I have already added 31 HP, exhaust came today and will be installed next Monday, might get an extra 5-10 if I am lucky out of it. Been shopping for a Turbo as well.
One thing I have noticed with the m3 engine is the lack of guts persay at rolling speed. A friend has a 05 330 CI with the m package. Had over 100 more ponies then I and was still able to inch out beating him 10-125. Haven't driven his car, but it seems there are a few flat spots in it. And he agrees, its like the old adage of turbo lag.
Prices I listed are aroundabout, after mounting and all that crap. And I wouldn't say the Dunlops have been ordinary, the grip has been excellent they just wore rather quickly. Handled very nice in the rain too, when we had it.
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Originally posted by ahgod69
Been shopping for a Turbo as well.
Hmmm...you might want to find a Z3 forum to discuss that. I know I've heard about the Z3 auto tranny not being able to take huge hp/tq. That is kind of backed up by the fact that the Dinan supercharger for the car is for manual tranny only. I might be remembering wrong...but check into it.
Also...turbo kits for BMWs are HUGE $$$...like $8k for the cheap ones and $11k for the good ones...they are also more complex to install. Consider a supercharger instead. Take a look at the SC from Active Autowerke and the Dinan...they are both in the $6k range. Plus they leave room for header/exhust and possibly cold air intake. Dinan has a great reputation and there are retailers in most large cities that can install and warranty. However, the Active Autowerke system includes some nice items the Dinan does not: intercooler, SC oil cooler (longer life to the SC bearings) and bigger injectors.
Definitely get a header/exhust at some point if you go SC...more volume air in needs more room to get out after combustion for max gains.
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Originally posted by crowMAW
Consider a supercharger instead.
One of the reasons why I have been shopping arond. Dynan for what I can see is you're paying for their sticker underneath your hood. Just got back from the bar so if I slur well forgive me. BUddy I ran into at the bar tonight who races a 3 series was against well everything I had to say. For some odd reason he is a purist. Don't change what ya have thinking. He has an older 89-90 model 3 series he is dropping a v8 into for racing. So his story ran as fast as helen keller. Granted his car now wll beat most if not all performance cars from 0-140, but he was an idealist.
Crow, from what I have gathered you know your ****, and I thank you. Slap, well we will drink some rum together soon enough :aok :D
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Originally posted by ahgod69
rofl. IF you have ever been to Michigan you would know we are notorious for having potholes tht swallow cars the size of cadilacs. Are 4 seasons consist of: almost winter, winter, still winter and road construction.
Pretty much like Chicago then. There, they have only two seasons - winter and August, or so the joke goes. Same deal about the potholes, which seemed to be much worse in the city than out of town on the interstates or even the backwater state roads.
I've looked at what you're doing to your car, and it seems like you're not short of a bob or two to spend on it. Have you ever considered NOT disabling that ACS thing every time you drive? It's there to help you! When I did that test yesterday, it wasn't just the wheel spin that made my CC twitch in my pocket - there was also the horrendous jarring felt through the drive train. If you're doing that on each start, something's going to break, eventually, and this is going to become more than a tyre wear whine thread. :cry
I'm still itching to know how often your wheel rims need repairing, given the state of MI roads, if you're running 40/45 profile tyres.
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Kumhos
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Originally posted by beet1e
Pretty much like Chicago then. There, they have only two seasons - winter and August, or so the joke goes. Same deal about the potholes, which seemed to be much worse in the city than out of town on the interstates or even the backwater state roads.
I've looked at what you're doing to your car, and it seems like you're not short of a bob or two to spend on it. Have you ever considered NOT disabling that ACS thing every time you drive? It's there to help you! When I did that test yesterday, it wasn't just the wheel spin that made my CC twitch in my pocket - there was also the horrendous jarring felt through the drive train. If you're doing that on each start, something's going to break, eventually, and this is going to become more than a tyre wear whine thread. :cry
I'm still itching to know how often your wheel rims need repairing, given the state of MI roads, if you're running 40/45 profile tyres.
Well beetle, if I was whining I would state I was. I was simply asking for information on tyres and stating driving style and what not. Not sure how you got whining out of it but who am I to say what is and what isn't whining. And I have never replaced my wheels, my other car I replaced 2. But that is pretty common up here. It's easy to avoid the potholes if you see them. ASC is put on for the purpose of traction control, and I do use it. But if I want to get the power down, I turn it off. Pretty straight forward stuff.
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Originally posted by ahgod69
Dunlop SP Sport 8080E 225/45ZR17 (Front tires) didn't feed the family for 2 weeks $300
Dunlop SP Sport 8080E 245/40ZR17 (Obviously the rears) No going out to the bar for a week $400
Sound like pretty good whines to me! Or maybe you were just speaking figuratively. ;)
I once ran right over one of those Chicago potholes. I had no chance to see it. It was daytime, but I had to pass under a railway (ooops, railroad) tunnel thing. Didn't see it coming. Hit the pothole and my Cod, I thought I'd broken the car in half. :eek: Didn't need a new wheel or rim repair though. Never have. :D
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Originally posted by ahgod69
ASC is put on for the purpose of traction control, and I do use it. But if I want to get the power down, I turn it off. Pretty straight forward stuff.
if ACS is for traction control, why would you turn it off to "put the power down"?
(see F-1 racing),
have you done timed runs with it on and off?
come on , admit it, you just like to "lay down rubber""smoke dem tires"" show the boys how bad your car is"
my advice would be to put really cheap tires on the back, then you can do lots of burnouts in front of your high school without spending too much money.
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Chris, when you find yourself out in Royal Oak. Call me, my buddy is a manager at Belle Tire in Scio (outside of A2). He'll save you a couple hundred on whatever brand you want. Let me know the Brand, size a couple days in advance and we'll head over if you wish. Your call bud.
Karaya
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Originally posted by john9001
if ACS is for traction control, why would you turn it off to "put the power down"?
(see F-1 racing),
have you done timed runs with it on and off?
come on , admit it, you just like to "lay down rubber""smoke dem tires"" show the boys how bad your car is"
my advice would be to put really cheap tires on the back, then you can do lots of burnouts in front of your high school without spending too much money.
US131 Motorsports is about 30 miles from my house we can do timed runs on the weekend for 20$ To be honest now that I think about it I never did a comparison. The problem is this, if you're on a surface (aka road) that has any kind of grime, oil, dirt whatever if the wheels start to spin you lose power. I noticed the first time I turned it off the car accelerated a lot faster without it off.
Yes, I do like to smoke dem tires as you put it lol, not for the above reason though :P Karaya, my brother lives in RO, and I know that store. I am over there at least once a month visiting and will def give ya a call on that! Well if ya read between the lines beetle I was making a slight joke:aok I know the potholes in Chicago very well, comp I work for has a showroom in Merchandise Mart and I frequented it a lot. Also got food poisoning from Pizza Uno lol. Great town, and I couldn't imagine being there right now cuz of the Sox.
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Originally posted by ahgod69
beetle I was making a slight joke:aok I know the potholes in Chicago very well, comp I work for has a showroom in Merchandise Mart and I frequented it a lot. Also got food poisoning from Pizza Uno lol. Great town, and I couldn't imagine being there right now cuz of the Sox.
LOL - OK then. I was going to post what john9001 said ^ :)
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Chris ... I'll bet these would get ya thru the winter ...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/BRIDGESTONE-BLIZZAK-225-50-R16-BMW-PORSCHE-AUDI-MERCEDE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ66474QQitemZ8008079133QQrdZ1
"Buy it Now" for $250.00 for 4 tires ... no bad.
I wouldn't go with 18" wheels on that car (and if ya do ... you gotta go 18s all-around ... not just the rears) for all the reasons that Crow pointed out. I don't know, but I have to believe that the car came stock with 16 inchers so kicking it up to 17s is cool, but 18s is another story ... you would probably need special wheels to get the correct offset, else you will have rubbing problems. Icer has a 964 also, and mounted 18 inchers ... special made Fikses ($4000.00 just for the wheels) with the correct offsets. Really nice looking, but too much jing for my wallet.
Stick with the 17 inchers ... lower it and swap out the shocks. I have H&R Coil-Overs with Bilsteins all-around (corner balanced) ... like riding on rails ... and it got rid of the "SUV" look that stock 964s have. Cars like ours is all about going around corners ... straight line speed ... boring.
Gonna be at Watkins Glen this Monday and Tuesday running Icer's '78 911 SC track car around ... weather looks chitty ... but we got our fingers crossed. Next season I will be taking my 964 to Lime Rock and Watkins.
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Compare tires, and comments from your peers:
http://www.tirerack.com
I just picked up some Eagle F1's for my bmw.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+F1+GS-D3#Survey
My car doesn't see snow. It gets grounded if the temp drops below 37 degrees.
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Originally posted by Ripsnort
Compare tires, and comments from your peers:
http://www.tirerack.com
I just picked up some Eagle F1's for my bmw.
http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tires.jsp?tireMake=Goodyear&tireModel=Eagle+F1+GS-D3#Survey
My car doesn't see snow. It gets grounded if the temp drops below 37 degrees.
Mine is garaged too ... it will never see the white stuff (except for a short run to keep things moving ... only on a nice day).
I really like those tires too ... I want to get them "next" season. Let me know how they feel.
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Originally posted by SlapShot
Mine is garaged too ... it will never see the white stuff (except for a short run to keep things moving ... only on a nice day).
I really like those tires too ... I want to get them "next" season. Let me know how they feel.
I have about 5,000 miles on them. Very quiet compared to the Yoko AV100's I had on before these. When the temp is up above 70, they really stick to the road when highspeed cornering. No tramlining whatsoever. Considering they're a softer rubber, I'll probably only get 20,000 miles out of them. The Yoko AV100s went 30,000, but DAMN they were just too loud after 5k or so on them.
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Slap,
The 16 is standard and can be upgraded to the 17. After reading what has been posted will stick with the 17 more then likely. We have had mild winters surprisingly up here last couple years and the snow stopped after January pretty much. Won't drive it as much in the winter as the summer, but I still love taking it out no matter the weather. That Ebay listing has been removed so I didn't get a chance to check it out :(
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Rip,
I have those tires. No matter what, stick to your decision not to drive them in the snow.
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Originally posted by eagl
Rip,
I have those tires. No matter what, stick to your decision not to drive them in the snow.
You chanced it once? Heh, bet that was an eye opener!
The 4X4 is for cold weather.