Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => Aces High General Discussion => Topic started by: Nomak on October 23, 2005, 09:00:13 AM
-
My last MS SW FFB2 finally died . I almost bought a CH set up a few months ago and at the last minute didnt. Now I dont have the money for a CH set up even if I wanted it.
Plugged in a Saitek cyborg EVO. My lord.... I am a nOOb again. Stalls, snap rolls, crappy gunnery.....
I am so use to the FFB shaking at the stall that without it I cant seem to judge the stall at all.
Please someone tell me they have been through this before and that its gonna be ok. Right now I feel like I will never get use to this dang stick.
Please help.....
Dave
-
well, it wont let me directly link..
but they have some for sale on ebay in nearly new condition.
-
The one that just died came off e bay. No more used sticks. Sooner or later there wont be any left anyway. Then Ill be in the same boat im in now. Naaa time to bite the bullet and convert to another stick.
I just want someone to tell me they have been through it to and that it turned out ok. Will give me some hope lol.
Dave
-
If itll make you feel better: Last week i changed my stick settings, so i wouldnt have to remove my hand off the rudder to look up.... heres the changes:
fire1 ----> lookup
fire2 ----> WEP
WEP ----> fire2
zoom ----> fire1
lookup ----> zoom
Was a wild ride for a week or so. Talk about being confused BIG time.... Even now, in the heat of the fight i might power WEP instead of guns blazing, but hey.... its all fun. LMAO. Youll adapt.
PS: You can use me for target practice tonight.... ;)
-
Like anything, you'll have an adjustment period. That could take as long as a month depending on how different the controller functions compared to your old one. I suspect after that time, you'll fly as well as you ever did. If the stick is in some ways better than the old one, you might even improve in some areas.
I know it took Honch about a month to transition from an old Sidewinder Pro to full CH gear. Those two setups could not be any more different and yet he still figured it out. So yes, you'll be fine.
-- Todd/Leviathn
-
Originally posted by Dead Man Flying
I know it took Honch about a month to transition from an old Sidewinder Pro to full CH gear. Those two setups could not be any more different and yet he still figured it out. So yes, you'll be fine.
-- Todd/Leviathn
Same here. Tried several sticks in mid 90's and stuck with MS Sidewinder Pro until about 2 years ago. Then bought all CH-USB setup. Took a month or better to get used to it. Would never go back now though.
-
Nomack wrote
Please help me.....
My last MS SW FFB2 finally died . I almost bought a CH set up a few months ago and at the last minute didnt. Now I dont have the money for a CH set up even if I wanted it.
Nomack: I Just might be able to help.. or you can help me.. I have a MS FFB2 stick. It is not being used at this time. if you are interested, I am willing to part with it. It is in good conditon, the only hang up is the #8 button is a little sticky and I have seemed to missplaced the power cord for it. If you are going to stick with your replacement J/S, I am in the market for a new power cord. .... LTARmedc
email me at: ltarmedc@yahoo.com
-
Originally posted by LTARmedc
Nomack
Nomack
hehehe.....
Nosmack :rofl
-
If you are going to completely relearn a stick get the CH hotas and do it right. Takes a while to learn but you wont regret it.
-
I too have a sidewinder sitting here that uses the old 10pin jack.
I only have USB on my newish PC and so i was forced to buy a saitek cyborg EVO.
It really is a totall load of tripe compared to a sidewinder, and very difficult to learn.
I have found that a calibration each time you log in is a good idea for a start.
Also i would suggest tweaking the sliders and addind a little deadband to the pitch, roll and rudder to stop nose bounce.
I would sugget turning the deadband totaly off on all axis.
you have to be 100% more gentle and smooth now. no sharp movements or pulling the stick right back into your groin to pull up.
good luck, tis stick is terrible at first, and then somehow, after 3 months, very, VERY nice.
-
Mechanic: I also have the Saitek Cyborg Evo and you're right you do have to calibrate everytime you log in. I've been using it for almost two years now and it's pretty good but nose bounce is still a problem for me.
One warning though, the hatswitch gets kind of sketchy after awhile. I often can't get it to look back so I can see what's on my six.
-
the hatswitch gets kind of sketchy after awhile. I often can't get it to look back so I can see what's on my six.
I had to revert to my backup saiCrap x45 when my CH stick exploded. The hatswitch lasted all of 30 days before it craped out. They're crap and I would never buy a saitek anything ever again.
-
Originally posted by Nomak
I am so use to the FFB shaking at the stall that without it I cant seem to judge the stall at all.
Please someone tell me they have been through this before and that its gonna be ok.
I had the saitek cyborg force feedback. The one without the spring. The biggest adv of FFB was riding the stall, esoecially at very very slow speeds. It was wonderful. Then the FFB motor crapped out and I got saitek x-52.
It took me few months to get halfway where I used to be.
Be ready for some suffering...
-
the stick auto calibrates every time you log in. seitek, far as i know.
-
what do you mean, died? hat's or trigger?
would this help? for hats...
Microsoft Sidewinder FF Pro Info (same as MS FFB2)
Hey guys, my Sidewinder Force Feedback Pro gets a real workout when I play AH - especially the hat switches.
Anyway, the switch that selects right view started dying so I toook it apart to see about replacing them.
Here is the information:
The switches used are Omron 150g actuation tactile jobs. They are available from Digi-Key.
The ones for the hat are Digi-Key part number SW408-ND (Omron # B3F3122) and are $0.36 each (4 required).
The switches for the stick buttons other than the trigger are Digi-Key part number SW401-ND (Omron # B3F1002) and are $0.26 each (3 required).
The trigger switch is Digi-Key part number SW426-ND (Omron B3M6009) and are $0.71 each (1 required).
Swapping out the switches is easy and even though I only had one dying, I replaced all of them. The others would also be long in the tooth so I figured get them all while I had it apart.
I guess it has been about two years since new and with optical encoding, I'm expecting it to last a few more years so I bought extras to swap em out next time one decides to go belly-up.
To disassemble the handle to get to the board that the switches mount on, there are the obvious screws on the right side of the handle. The trigger must be removed before splitting the shell - spread it at the top to disengage the pivots. There is a catch at the bottom that will let go once you release the top. Then there are catches that hold the halves of the handle together I guess to make assembly easier. They let go real easy and if one breaks (one of mine did) it's no biggie as there are others and the screws actually hold the halves together.
Once you split it open, you have access to the circuit board. Just desolder carefully and then reinstall the new switches. Be sure to seat them properly down on the board (they have feet to assure the proper setup) then solder them back in.
You need to have a little soldering skill for this but it's no hill for a climber. I saved myself a new stick (about $100) for about $3 worth of switches and a few minutes of my time.
Anyone with dead switches that doesn't feel up to the job, I'll replace them for $25 and you pay all shipping costs. E-mail if interested.
-
wow.. thanks shane!
Very useful, i just replaced a PP2 with another because the right hat was broken. Got this message bookmarked for future ref.
no way to stop it slightly spiking is there?
-
Originally posted by LTARmedc
Nomack: I Just might be able to help.. or you can help me.. I have a MS FFB2 stick. It is not being used at this time. if you are interested, I am willing to part with it. It is in good conditon, the only hang up is the #8 button is a little sticky and I have seemed to missplaced the power cord for it. If you are going to stick with your replacement J/S, I am in the market for a new power cord. .... LTARmedc
email me at: ltarmedc@yahoo.com
You have mail.....
Dave
-
Originally posted by Morpheus
If you are going to completely relearn a stick get the CH hotas and do it right. Takes a while to learn but you wont regret it.
Its just not an option Jeff. I dont have the money.
Dave
-
Rgr, understood. If you're interested in going the hotas rout though you should watch ebay. They have great deals on there. Just saying.
They cost more but last forever.
-
Originally posted by 2bighorn
I had the saitek cyborg force feedback. The one without the spring. The biggest adv of FFB was riding the stall, esoecially at very very slow speeds. It was wonderful. Then the FFB motor crapped out and I got saitek x-52.
It took me few months to get halfway where I used to be.
Be ready for some suffering...
I have been looking at the cyborg FFB. Any reason you didnt go with the same stick again? What kind of life did you get out of it?
Dave
-
Originally posted by Shane
what do you mean, died? hat's or trigger?
would this help? for hats...
Microsoft Sidewinder FF Pro Info (same as MS FFB2)
Hey guys, my Sidewinder Force Feedback Pro gets a real workout when I play AH - especially the hat switches.
Anyway, the switch that selects right view started dying so I toook it apart to see about replacing them.
Here is the information:
The switches used are Omron 150g actuation tactile jobs. They are available from Digi-Key.
The ones for the hat are Digi-Key part number SW408-ND (Omron # B3F3122) and are $0.36 each (4 required).
The switches for the stick buttons other than the trigger are Digi-Key part number SW401-ND (Omron # B3F1002) and are $0.26 each (3 required).
The trigger switch is Digi-Key part number SW426-ND (Omron B3M6009) and are $0.71 each (1 required).
Swapping out the switches is easy and even though I only had one dying, I replaced all of them. The others would also be long in the tooth so I figured get them all while I had it apart.
I guess it has been about two years since new and with optical encoding, I'm expecting it to last a few more years so I bought extras to swap em out next time one decides to go belly-up.
To disassemble the handle to get to the board that the switches mount on, there are the obvious screws on the right side of the handle. The trigger must be removed before splitting the shell - spread it at the top to disengage the pivots. There is a catch at the bottom that will let go once you release the top. Then there are catches that hold the halves of the handle together I guess to make assembly easier. They let go real easy and if one breaks (one of mine did) it's no biggie as there are others and the screws actually hold the halves together.
Once you split it open, you have access to the circuit board. Just desolder carefully and then reinstall the new switches. Be sure to seat them properly down on the board (they have feet to assure the proper setup) then solder them back in.
You need to have a little soldering skill for this but it's no hill for a climber. I saved myself a new stick (about $100) for about $3 worth of switches and a few minutes of my time.
Anyone with dead switches that doesn't feel up to the job, I'll replace them for $25 and you pay all shipping costs. E-mail if interested.
This should be sticky'd somewhere.
Good stuff.
-
Shane.....
I have one FFB2 that spikes on elevator input and another that has hat switch issues. Sounds like a repair on the second should be possible.
Mabye I will switch the hat switches from the one to the other......hmmmm.....
I cant get over how good of a unit the FFB2 is. Nothing that I have tried has even come close. Its like a joystick graveyard here......discarded sticks clutter the landscape of my basement lol. Although I havnt tried CH stuff.
Why in the name of God did they stop making them????
Bastages
Dave
-
Dave, you should try to fix the stick you have now then put away a few bucks here and there and spring for CH HOTAS down the road. You know, after my prec 2 died I was out of luck as far as getting another new one so i ended up getting the ch stuff. I would never go back, and it is a huge step up in every way posible.
-
Originally posted by Morpheus
This should be sticky'd somewhere.
Good stuff.
no kidding...
i forgot to add, it's not *my* post... it was a BBS post about 2 years ago, lost it once, then found it and decided to notepad it in case something ever happened to the original post.
I haven't done any repairs yet, and since i'm not the original author (i forget who was) i can't make repairs for others...
just sayin'
-
Nomak,
If you DO decide to change I went from MS FFB to CH setup AND TIR vector all at the same time.
Took me a long time to relearn to fly but is well worth it.
I know your short $$ and this isnt going to happen now... but if you trip over a bag of money:
Hotas $350
Tir Vector $120
Balsy
-
Originally posted by Shane
no kidding...
i forgot to add, it's not *my* post... it was a BBS post about 2 years ago, lost it once, then found it and decided to notepad it in case something ever happened to the original post.
I haven't done any repairs yet, and since i'm not the original author (i forget who was) i can't make repairs for others...
just sayin'
I might take that and put it up on my website forum for the heck of it. I dont know who to give the credit to but I know it could help alot of people who have the same problem.
-
U gotta be kiddin me Nomak ,,,, Hell you pulled off one of the tightest 38 spiral climb turns ive ever seen last night , and ruined my Jug vs 38 hi alt streak ..
along with the fact my unjoystick hardware sux's .. nose bounce, hit % went to the basement,ect ect ,,
-
I am sorry Roo......:)
I took two sticks and made one good one out of them. So I guess I will stay hooked on my FFB2 for a while longer. Still not sure about a long term soulition though.
Dave
-
I just hope your " collection" looks as bad as mine ...
(http://[img]http://www.onpoi.net/ah/pics/users/301_1130153813_dcp_0061.jpg)[/IMG]
Btw Anyone got a mad catz panther dx ??? I could really use one for parts ... its in that collection there and it worked great with my peds ... ... Id be willing to trade a Good Working st290pro .
btw i ran outta desk room theres anouther 6 or 8 sticks in the closet....