Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: nirvana on November 09, 2005, 04:29:53 PM
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Alright well lucky for me my step dad owns an auto shop, however, that would be a moot point if the frackin check engine light wouldn't keep popping on. I keep the revs under 4000 95% of the time, and under 5000 100% of the time I drive. Which leads me to ask, why does theit keep coming on? Is there something that should be checked out? I'm a teen driver so you don't expect much, but this is the 3rd time in 3 weeks and it's getting pretty damn old. '96 Ford Probe by the way.
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when check engine light goes off, best is to take it to the dealer and let them hook it up to computer and find out what the problem is.
check engine light can come on for many reasons, anythinig from major engine problem to something as simple as replacing the gas cap.
see your local Ford dealer and see what they say.
good luck
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96 Ford Probe
I see the problem.
Ford
Just take it to an open field and shoot it. Allot.
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Originally posted by Callisto
when check engine light goes off, best is to take it to the dealer and let them hook it up to computer and find out what the problem is.
See your local Ford dealer and see what they say.
They will say the repair will cost $$$. If your dad is any kind of skilled mechanic at all he will know how to read the codes and diagnose the problem. Most likely it's a sensor going bad. Do not, repeat DO NOT take it to a dealership for service unless you just want to spend 3 times more than you have to.
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Do not take it to the dealer unless you're a sucker.
Find an Autozone nearby (if you don't have any, call around, other chains might have this too) and ask them to scan the code. Autozones will do this for free hoping that if the code suggests a part needs to be replaced, that you'll purchase it from them. Great marketing, and super handy for people in the pickle you're in.
You shouldn't have to worry about the light being on at the time you go to the dealership, the last code is usually stored and can be retrieved.
This all assumes that your car is 1996 or newer, meaning it is equipped with an OBD-II port. If it's pre 96 but post 80s, it might be EECIV and you'll have to schlump it into the dealer. If it's pre THAT, then... drop it off at the Henry Ford museum and get a new car.
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I agree with RPM. With a car that old (going on 10 years), it could be anything. But I'd be willing to bet it's the oxygen sensor. It gets plugged up with carbon in the exhaust and tells the fuel injector to run rich or lean, leading to a host of other problems. It should be a pretty cheap fix.
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Mine was doing the same thing. So I took it to the dealer and found out that the Catalytic converter was bad.
Fortunately for me, I had the catalytic converter replaced 2 months prior. The dude pushed a button and it never came back (for that reason).
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Just ignore it. It'll blink when it really means it. ;)
:aok
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Somebody told me once about that check engine light. I cant remember what he said to do but if your car is running ok and the oil is right and the temp is good dont worry about it. It may be the O2 sensor needs replaced or something needs to be reset. Check your manual for a resetting of the computer. I wish I coiuld remeber. But it is something goofy like that.
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My step dad has scanned it, the first time was over revving and riding the clutch, second time was a sensor, he took out and cleaned it. We're hoping it's not the sensor because it's........$550:O We never go to the dealership, my step dad makes a killing on the people who go to him instead of dealerships because his prices are MUCH lower.
Oh and Gtora, I feel like using it as my shooting car right now, don't tempt me.
Oh on another Probe I worked on this summer there was a metal tab in the engine bay specifically so you couldn't get the engine out. As my step dad put it, "Just another way Ford tries to **** with you."
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Cover it with electical tape.
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check to make sure your gas cap is screwed on tight. Mine comes on if I dont tighten my gas cap. After I tighten gas cap lights goes off.
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Given the poster's age and what can normally be expected from young drivers, I'll let him in on something he may or may not already know: That Probe isn't fast, even if it's a GT with a 5-speed. I've driven full-size station wagons that are speedier.
"Check engine light" often means a sensor has gone bad, as others have said.
J_A_B
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V6 or 4cyl? Which sensor was throwing the CEL code? Was it the mass air flow (MAF) sensor...or your car may have a more simple air flow meter (AFM)? That's the only sensor I can think of that would be that expensive. Some sensors, like the AMF or throttle position sensor (TPS) can easily be tested with an ohmmeter...that means you can go to a junkyard and find a used one that is still in working order by testing it with a handheld ohmmeter. For example my brother pulled a working AFM for his old RX-7 at a junkyard for $35...new would have cost $500+ if a new-old stock unit could even be found.
Your car shares many parts with Mazda vehicles, so depending on the part...several different models will have the same one. Most junkyards have a cross referrence catalog that will tell you which parts are interchangeable from other models.
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My first car was a 1994 Grand Am which had either an OBD1 Computer with an OBD2 connection or Vis-Versa. Took it to Auto Zone and the connecter wouldn't work with their hardware so I took it to a shop they referred me to who they knew had it.
$60 later I knew it was the O2 Sensor. Right there in the snow I popped the hood and found the O2 Sensor, followed the wire to the top of the motor to an accessory bundle and the wire came off in my hand with a slight touch. I asked for a foot of black electrical tape and fixed it right there by splicing the wire together and taping it up.
The repair was easy it's just too bad that black tape on that day was $5 per inch! :O
If it's a sensor, go to a salvage yard and yank one out of a similar car. My hood latch broke and for $2 I got one from a salvage yard that worked just like new. It's a DIY Market out there...stay away from dealerships. You'll learn more, spend less and live happier :)
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Originally posted by BTW
Cover it with electical tape.
That's what I was going to say; shooting it out sounds like a reasonable option too.
eskimo
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Alright for you car guys try to grasp this one. My step dad said he disconnected as well as removed the distributor and the engine still ran. What can I say besides he was pulling my leg or my car is MESSED up. Possible computer problem.
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I do not think the word distributor means what he thinks it means.
.....or it is a diesel. :D
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It needs a new Rotator Splint. I can have it back to you good as new in less than a week.
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Perhaps the blinker fluid is a bit low?
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He better know what a distributor is, he owns the auto shop and he didn't get there by kissing bellybutton either.
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It might be the fetzer valve then. Prepare it with some 3-in-1 oil and some gauze pads, and you're gonna need about ten quarts of anti-freeze, preferably Prestone.
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the hummers must be lapped before the droids are furbished.
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Nuke it from orbit, it's the only way to be sure.
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Maybe he needs a refresher course.
J_A_B
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No kidding. Ask him to tell you more about the car running with the distributor cap removed.
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It is absolutely impossible for a gasoline engine to run with the distributor cap removed. And before you come back and say something like "Yeah, but it really did", I will say again; It is absolutely impossible for a gasoline engine to run with the distributor cap removed.
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Originally posted by nirvana
Alright well lucky for me my step dad owns an auto shop, however, that would be a moot point if the frackin check engine light wouldn't keep popping on. I keep the revs under 4000 95% of the time, and under 5000 100% of the time I drive. Which leads me to ask, why does theit keep coming on? Is there something that should be checked out? I'm a teen driver so you don't expect much, but this is the 3rd time in 3 weeks and it's getting pretty damn old. '96 Ford Probe by the way.
One of these two would be my first guess:
1. O2 Sensor - Less than $200
2. EGR Sensor - Less than $200
Anything else, as long as the Engine runs fine, leave it alone. Probes have reliability issues in the Last redesign.
Hope any of this helps.
Karaya
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My Tempos eng light comes on when I start the car and never goes off.
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After ten years, the light just comes on out of surprise that the car is still running. Standard Ford feature.
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Originally posted by Skilless
It is absolutely impossible for a gasoline engine to run with the distributor cap removed. And before you come back and say something like "Yeah, but it really did", I will say again; It is absolutely impossible for a gasoline engine to run with the distributor cap removed.
had a car run with the cap removed from the dist but the HT wires were still pluged into the cap, the spark was arcing between the coil post and spark plug posts( bad cap) it did not run very good , but it ran.
i had to call the other techs over to see it, if you work on cars long enough (40 years)you will see everything.
on the eng light, check the code, thats why they put it in there.
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Recheck the Henway and make sure it's balanced properly.
Then ask your Dad if driving a Ford "Probe" makes you look Ghey.
:huh
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Originally posted by dmf
My Tempos eng light comes on when I start the car and never goes off.
yea. I had a mercury topaz for about 5 years and the checl engine light would come on every 15000 miles. It used to scare the crap out of me like I was gonna break down at any minute. i tried everything I had the capacity to do. Plugs rotors wires sensors distributor cap. (mine needed this to run ;) ) , nothing helped. But it would always go off after about 3500 miles. I figured it was a ford gimmick to get you to bring it in for one of those costly 'encoder digitizers'. I logged over 130000 miles on it, sold to my wifes nephew for 500 bucks and it is still running with over 200,000 miles on it. Best car I ever had.
Never did check the engine:p
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Wife had a company car (Ford Torous) left the gas cap loose, called me to tell me check engine light was on. I told here to take it to the Ford Stealer (ahh Dealer). What did I care her company paid for everything car related, they tightened the gas cap and the light went out in ten minutes or so. Seems to be some emission related thing.
Check the Gas cap, really
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Originally posted by nirvana
Alright for you car guys try to grasp this one. My step dad said he disconnected as well as removed the distributor and the engine still ran. What can I say besides he was pulling my leg or my car is MESSED up. Possible computer problem.
Some engines can “diesel” for awhile after the ignition is shut off, especially if the anti diesel valve is not in place. I suppose that if an engine that’s prone to dieseling is already running and hot, and the cap is pulled, it might keep going, for a bit…
eskimo
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Which trouble code it was, or to what component was it referring to? Was it a constant or occasional trouble? Is the engine running differently than before(idle speed, lack of power etc.)?
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Originally posted by eskimo2
Some engines can “diesel” for awhile after the ignition is shut off, especially if the anti diesel valve is not in place. I suppose that if an engine that’s prone to dieseling is already running and hot, and the cap is pulled, it might keep going, for a bit…
eskimo
I once put some diesel(1/1 ratio) to one of my old gasoline cars on purpose, just to see how it would run. It did keep dieseling after I turned ignition of when the engine was hot, and I even got the damn thing moving!
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See that's what i'm thinking it was doing, dieseling, but i'm not sure. We'll see if it pops on again in another week.
And the trouble code kept changing they (my step dad and lead mechanic) said, so it's hard to tell.
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Guys in the shop were tuning one of the trucks. Engine light stayed on. Replaced the 02 sensors, new plugs, wires, the works.
Engine light was still on.
They were stumped.
I told them to clean the battery terminals.
They looked at me like I was a moron. Honestly, I can't argue with them on that, but they still needed to clean the posts.
They did.
Light went off.
They have never heard of such a thing, cleaning a battery post to turn off the light.
Still haven't told them that when they disconnected the battery cables, they reset the computer :)
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That's cheating ROC.
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ROC thats just mean LOL
I wish that was teh problem with my car, I took it to Pep Boys yesterday and they told me I need a new computer, I don't see how since my car runs fine, and doesn't that computter thing control the engine?
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booooooo..dont you believe it. If the damm car is running then the puter is fine. You DID change the spark plugs right? If the ignition system is dirty or worn, it will send erratic messages to the puter and this will cause the check engine light to come on, and rightly so. Change the spark plugs, wires cap and rotor if applicable, and see if that doesnt fix the proiblem.(tune-up):huh
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Originally posted by WhiteHawk
booooooo..dont you believe it. If the damm car is running then the puter is fine. You DID change the spark plugs right? If the ignition system is dirty or worn, it will send erratic messages to the puter and this will cause the check engine light to come on, and rightly so. Change the spark plugs, wires cap and rotor if applicable, and see if that doesnt fix the proiblem.(tune-up):huh
That's exactly the problem with many "professional" shops today. When they have no clue they keep changing and charging for unneeded parts, and by luck they might get it working. Ignition for example is easy to diagnose with an oscilloscope. I do agree that the ECU is not a likely fault here but not impossible. I don't think the engine management system in a car of this age is capable to detect misfiring... If the motor is running fine by ear it's unlikely that the source for the trouble code is ignition.
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Originally posted by Golfer
My first car was a 1994 Grand Am
You guys make me feel so old. My first car was a 55 dodge.
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You can be sure that its not the gas cap,'96 ford probe does not have EVAP......i think
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Originally posted by dmf
ROC thats just mean LOL
I wish that was teh problem with my car, I took it to Pep Boys yesterday and they told me I need a new computer, I don't see how since my car runs fine, and doesn't that computter thing control the engine?
Autozone,pepboys....might as well call it RODRIGEZ auto repair...they morons
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Yea I found that out the $150 hard way my neighbor found the problem with mine, and reset the light so it won't come back on for another 20, 000, I'll have 260,000 when he has to do it again. And he only charged me $5
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Originally posted by ATA
You can be sure that its not the gas cap,'96 ford probe does not have EVAP......i think
How can you start off with "you can be sure" and end your sentance with "I think"?? ;)
Seems like a waste of a post, you said nothing.:)
I am 100 percent sure that on most new cars a loose or missing gas cap WILL trigger a check eng. light.
I takes a few miles for it to go on and about 5 min. or so to shut off after you tighten (replace) the cap.
Just tried it with my wifes 2006 Pacifica (another company car) It light up in less then a mile.
My 04 Dodge with a Cummens Diesel wont play this game
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Originally posted by Scootter
How can you start off with "you can be sure" and end your sentance with "I think"?? ;)
Seems like a waste of a post, you said nothing.:)
I am 100 percent sure that on most new cars a loose or missing gas cap WILL trigger a check eng. light.
I takes a few miles for it to go on and about 5 min. or so to shut off after you tighten (replace) the cap.
Just tried it with my wifes 2006 Pacifica (another company car) It light up in less then a mile.
My 04 Dodge with a Cummens Diesel wont play this game
My 2004 ford taurus actually has a 'gas cap loose' light, it is seperate from the check engine light. (I assume, me check engine light hasnt lit yet:)
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Originally posted by Scootter
How can you start off with "you can be sure" and end your sentance with "I think"?? ;)
Seems like a waste of a post, you said nothing.:)
True:)
Well thats me...
Atalian, Alex Master Technician [ST202] Inskip BMW [26703]
Course Seq Status Date
[DL039] EML IIIS: AN OVERVIEW 111 Completed 02/12/02
[WB050] TECHNICAL SYSTEMS Completed 04/14/02
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[ST051] BODY ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONICS I 178 Completed 09/09/02
[ST052] BODY ELECTRONICS II 197 Completed 01/13/03
[IP015] ENGINE ELECTRONICS Completed 10/13/03
[ST055] ENGINE ELECTRONICS 205 Cancelled 11/03/03
[ST055] ENGINE ELECTRONICS 213 Completed 03/01/04
[VI284] SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 2/04 14 Completed 03/10/04
[VI296] SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 3/04 19 Completed 03/29/04
[VI313] SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 5/04 3 Completed 05/21/04
[VI324] SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 6/04 7 Completed 06/28/04
[ST048] X3 COMPLETE VEHICLE 182 Cancelled 07/21/04
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[VI345] THE SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 9/04 7 Completed 10/01/04
BMW Technician TECH SYS II ST050 X
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And you are:)?
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That's nothing:
Welcome back Chairboy (88841)
http://hallert.net/
Karma: Excellent
http://slashdot.org/~Chairboy
Look at all those +5 posts. Anyone can take a number of BMW certification classes, but it takes skill to be so consistently +5 Insightful, +5 Funny, and so on.
:D
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Originally posted by WhiteHawk
My 2004 ford taurus actually has a 'gas cap loose' light, it is seperate from the check engine light. (I assume, me check engine light hasnt lit yet:)
Your english teacher!?
:rolleyes: :D
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A '96 Ford might or might not have EVAP. Then again the diagnostic system may or may not be able to detect a loose gas cap. :)
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96 probe!
OMG I had that exact same car. I had the V6 version. Was fun untill the timing chain tensioner assembley starting coming apart. The dealer said it wasn't even worth fixing. This was with 96,000 miles on it. I sold it for $500.
Get out while you can, Fords suck!
g00b
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Don't they have belts?(timing belts)
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Originally posted by Chairboy
That's nothing:
Welcome back Chairboy (88841)
http://hallert.net/
Karma: Excellent
http://slashdot.org/~Chairboy
Look at all those +5 posts. Anyone can take a number of BMW certification classes, but it takes skill to be so consistently +5 Insightful, +5 Funny, and so on.
:D
Anyone:)?Not if BMW pays for them
Dude,every class lasts 3-6 days
E65 is two weeks.:)
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Mines is a V4, a real monster;) Because i'm lazy and I don't want to check, I think I just turned 126,000 miles. Next car is gonna be a model T with NOS!!