Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: GreenCloud on December 15, 2005, 06:49:14 PM
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I want to buy my last cleaning kit
need to clean
pistols...22-.45
rifles 22-308.
any great ideas
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Otis cleaning kits have become quite popular. Havent got one yet myself, so cant say.
If you are looking for a once size fits all kit, cant help you there.
For my .308 rifle, I bought a Tipton carbon cleaning rod, some top quality brass for it, (jags, patch holder, etc) and a muzzle guide. Chamber brush and I buy Hoppes by the quart.
If you spend decent money on a firearm, dont scrimp on decent cleaning equipment.
dago
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does the tipton rod break down?
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My best suggestion is to buy a rod that doesn't break down. Sure, we have kits for shotguns, pistols, rifles and air rifles.
But the best rod out of them all was a 6 dollar rod on which the shaft rotated independantly of the handle.
It looked kind of like a really long screw driver.
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Originally posted by GreenCloud
does the tipton rod break down?
No, its a one piece rod, and that is what you want if you want to protect your barrel and muzzel.
Carbon fiber is well-suited to the tough tasks assigned to cleaning rods. It combines the best features of stainless steel and coated cleaning rods, then adds valuable properties of its own. During Operation Iraqi Freedom, US military armorers called on Tipton to provide cleaning rods that would clean service rifles in demanding conditions. It made sense to us: Carbon fiber is an ideal material for cleaning rods. Stainless steel rods can scratch or wear barrels if they're used carelessly - though they won't pick up potentially damaging small abrasive particles. "Coated" rods get part of the job done - they keep the stainless steel shaft from damaging your barrel's rifling, but the coating will pick up small abrasive particles, which means you're effectively running fine-grit sandpaper through your bore. Carbon fiber rods are the best of both: the carbon fiber can't scratch your bore like stainless steel, and they won't embed like coated rods. We call these cleaning rods "deluxe" because they feature an ergonomically designed handle that spins on two sets of ball bearings - the result is a cleaning rod that smoothly follows the rifling both pushing and pulling, even while under pressure. The "shank-through" construction also allows the user to apply "reasonable" hammer blows to the end of the cleaning rod to get a tight patch through a bore.
Tipton Rod Prices (http://www.battenfeldtechnologies.com/tipton-deluxe-carbon-fiber-cleaning-rods.html)
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Thanks Dago.... I've just ordered two. The break down hoppes rods are fine for the range bag, but get awful tedious at home. Have seen the single peice stainless rods at the gun shop, didn't like the risk of scuffing the bore.
You da man. :aok
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Over the years I have tried about everything..
What I am liking and useing these days in my own made up kit...
Shooters choice and Dillon precision solvent and some mpro 7 now and then (kills corrosive salts for the lazy)
any old cleaning rods with most pistol ones allready having brushes on em... I also will wrap some copper scouring pad around worn brushes to get the lead out... try it.
I am getting fond of 'bore snakes" with some clp on em for the final pull through the bore....
lead "wipe away cloths" cut into patches for that burned on stuff around cylinders and such..
toothbrushes in nylon and brass and even stainless.
one face towel sized rag that is pretty much soaked in clp for wipe down of blues guns that people handle (showing them)
I have also used some "bore gel" from blue wonder... works ok.
lazs
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I use some copper solvent every few cleanings, there are some good ones out there including Sweets, but only ever few cleanings, and you have to clean it out well when done. Most cleaning though is with good old Hoppes 9.
I good lead remover is a necessity too if someone is using unjacketed bullets. That crap can really build up.
Hang, I am sure you will like the rod, I like mine, quality unit.
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I have purchased or recieved as gifts over the years "all in one" cleaning kits and they never have everything I want or need. If this is the case with you I would suggest doing what I did, and build your own kit. I bought a tackle box to store everything in and purchased or reused what was in my other kits and made my own cleaning kit. I have brushes for everything from .22 to .50 (muzzle loader) and 410 to 12 gage shotgun. Storage for solvent and oil, rags, pipe cleaners, dental pics, tooth brushes, Q-Tips, inspection mirror, mini mag light, and tools. I have found this to be the most hassle free way to do it, so I don't have to hunt around for "that one kit".
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I just put my stuff in a tool box next to, and box under my work bench in my work room on my lower level. A tackle box or tool box to hold it all convienient is a good way to keep it together.
My one piece cleaning rods hang in long tubes mounted on the side of my work bench.
Chemicals are all stored together in a box.
Organization is great if you dont get too anal about it, otherwise it takes the fun out of being a guy.
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This isn't precisely on-point (since I'm referring to more than pistols), but I'll kick in my POV, since I've cleaned a gun or three-thousand in my day:
For cleaning, lubrication and anti-fouling...I only use Break-Free CLP. This stuff is off-the-hook good, IMO. Quickly breaks up fouling, leaves a durable lubricant residue, and build up in the metals' micro-pores over time, reducing the tendency of carbon to stick to the steel. I was a die-hard Hoppes No. 9 user, until I got turned on to this stuff.
Even better...some firearms (Beretta semi-auto shotguns, for example) actually shoot better 'wet'...that is, thoroughly lubricated with Break-Free and shot with the product all over the inner works. This actively lubes the action, and keeps carbons and varnishes in suspension while shooting. After, just wash everything down with more BFCLP and store. Perfection.
I also found that the 'all-in-one' brushes (or 'bore snakes') for shotgun tubes are fantastic. I refer to those devices which comprise a thick rope of woven fibers (acrylic or poly?), with a brass brush woven into it, and a long pull string. You drop the string through the tube, and pull for all your worth. One, and I mean just one, pass and all thats left is a mirror shine from chamber to muzzle. No solvent. Dry.
In the end, these two products have cut hours off my maintenance tasks. I can shoot my Citori for a full competition season using the brush after each day's practice, and a wet cleaning only...are you ready for this?...once a season. And she's as pristine as the day I bought her.
Guys...give this stuff a try. You may really like it.
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I need a cleaning kit for my 1911. Any suggestions?
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I like my cleaning snakes and also use 1 piece carbon rods.
The rag trick for wiping down after people touchy is a great helping hand. Kepp mine in a ziploc baggie in the gun bag.
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Originally posted by Hajo
I need a cleaning kit for my 1911. Any suggestions?
If all you have is a .45, then that is all you need for a bore brush. Any gun shop will have a basic cleaning kit for pistols and many will let you choose the bore brush for your pistol. After that all you need is some clean rags.
Most basic kits come with oil, solvent, and bore patches. I would suggest getting a tooth brush to add to the kit as well.
Ask at your local gun store and I'm sure they can set you up with what you need.
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sweet..
Ok..So i have seen many of the snakes?..
How do you clean them after word? And do theses really take the place of a bore brush?
Do you soak the snake in solvent first?
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You can clean the snakes by throwing em in the wash. I use em after I have cleaned the bore with a brush and solvent for the most part but... If I am lazy or have not fired the gun much (say a few rounds out of a rifle) or... fired nothing but a box of jacketed rounds out of a pistol... I will run a wet bore brush down the bore and cylinders a couple of times and then pull the snake through with the last few inches wet with clp or oil of your choice.
I have never washed the snakes yet tho. I find I get enough solvent in the bore for quicky jobs when I use a toothbrush to clean up the rest of the gun then, I just run the snake through, wipe everything down.... and call it a day.
lazs
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Thanks for the tip on the Tipton rods... I was looking at the Dewey all brass rods at first, but a cf rod sounds interesting.
I was considering a bore snake too. But I guess I could get by with just a rod, brushes and patches for now.
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I like soap and water.
Depending on the gun of course.
I take the sig down to just the hamer, and mainspring in the frame and the firing pin block in the slide.
The slide and frame I clean with whatever gun cleaning solvent I have on hand but the rest of the small parts and barrel go into a bowl of hot water with dish soap. I get them nice and clean, rinse them and then oil them.
Work far better then oil based solvents.
If you can't take the gun far enough apart to be sure it is dry, before you put it back together, do not do it though.
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Depending on the handgun; dishwasher and wd40.
When I was in service I used to take rifle to shower with me. Use really hot water so it air dryed fast. Of course it was a big nono because the military doesn't trust their line unit grunts with weapons. Worked very well people wondered how my weapon was so clean and turned in so fast.
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Oh yeah... for guns with frame mounted firing pins (revolvers) I like to spray carb cleaner in the firing pin hole once in a while.
lazs
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When using a snake on my shotgun, at least ...no solvents, no prep, no nothing. The bore brush is an integral part of the snake.
I pull 'er through, right on the shooting line, when I'm finished with practice. One pull, after 200 rounds of 12 gauge, and I get a mirror-clean finish. I'll do a full field-strip and wet-clean maybe twice a year.
Been using the same one for 3 years now, never needed a cleaning yet, although you can through 'em in the wash.
Whatever your cleaning protocols are, you'll find these puppies to be a useful addition...they may even lower your 'paraphernalia' count by eliminating a couple other supplies.
Good Luck!
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BTW, how much will cost .410 long-boled cleaning kit? This caliber isn't popular here so market is empty. Maybe any links?