Aces High Bulletin Board
General Forums => The O' Club => Topic started by: wrag on April 10, 2006, 02:46:59 PM
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At the threads :mad: :cry :furious
Put some penetrating stuff on it.
ceramic material is still in part that remains in the head.
Suggestions???????
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Stop being so muscular.
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So you broke it off so there is nothing for a wrench to get on?
What kind of car?
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Dynamite.
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If I remember correctly they come in various sizes. Basically it has course reversed threads that expand quickly so that it digs into the stuck bolt or in this case plug. once it digs in and sticks it will hopefully loosen the plug. They are sold in REAL auto parts stores here where I live, but not at places like autozone etc. Spend some time on the phone with you local auto parts stores, they should know of a solution. Best of luck to ya!
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Ouch!..
Be careful when plucking it out.. you dont want any metal fallin inside your engine....Taking off the cylinder head might be the safest.
Nex time use some of that antisieze stuff on your plugs, especially if you have aluminum heads.
Good luck wrag, i hope you fix it fast and cheap!
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84 toyota 22R
Aluminum Head :(
Broken off clean right at the head. No hex head to put the socket on.
Ceramic material is still in the remaining portion of the head.
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Remove the head, and then use and easyout...or if you have a borescope you can leave the head on... just make sure you do not drop any peices in the cylinder... other wise the head has to come off...
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Pull the head and take it to a machine shop and let them do it. You could very easily **** it up far more since it is aluminum.
At least getting the head off should not be to much of a hassle on those motors.
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First off what kind of car is it? If its brand new and is worth what you're going to put in it by bringing it some place to have them pull the head off then yeah, bring it to someone.
Otherwise I'd take an easy out to it and then once I had it out, blow out the cylinder and be done with it.
Perfect example of why you should always use never seize.
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remove the head on the 22R it's easy work and you will be safe. while it's off see to the valves. while the valves are being done might as well rebuild it completely. oh hell, go get a new a car already ya cheap bastige.
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that kind of thing I would just leave alone. put some bondo in there to cover up the hole and forget it. and cut off that extra wire so it looks neat.
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So how did it go? is it running yet?
Varoooooom! Vroooooom! SCreeeeeeeeech!:D
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Originally posted by Gunthr
that kind of thing I would just leave alone. put some bondo in there to cover up the hole and forget it. and cut off that extra wire so it looks neat.
HMMM.................
Well I guess that would be OK if I wanted a 3 cylinder 22R toyota.:lol
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NOTICE NOTICE NOTICE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Now I find out that using Champion, Denso, or Boshce sparkplugs in a Toyota 22R engine is a BAD IDEA!
The plug that broke off was a Denso.
Something about a slightly off thread patteren?
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More than likely somebody crossthreaded the plug and torqued it in supertight. Espescially if it broke off so low. Take the head off, you might have to get a heli-coil insert put in to fix the damaged threads.
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Wow, yer not supposed to use a denso plug on a 22r? Isn't Denso japanese? Isn't the 22r Japanese????:confused:
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The problem is the the plug is steel and the head is aluminum, putting those two metals togather with out some kind of insulater will result in the two being corroded togather. To keep this from happening again just put a litttle anti-seize in the treads of the plug before you install them.
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Firstly of all every job on aluminum block/heads should be performed on cooled engine.
Secondly.....yeah you screwed bro.Not much you can do without special tools,removing head is the best solution.
---------------
ASE,BMW Certified.Master tec.
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he's not screwend LOL. I dont know why you think its that big of a deal. We've had friends break rods and sling **** all over the inside of the case. Pulled the pan from under the car, pulled out the busted rod and piston, cleaned all the meltal out and poped in a new one and the car ran fine for another 40k.
Yeah, you have to pull plugs when the heads are cold on alum heads. Like I said, an easy out, with some heavy grease on it to keep some of the metal from going inside, then blow out the cylinder and put a new plug in. You will be good to go. Its that simple. We've drilled new EGR passages on heads that were already on the car. They go RIGHT through one side of the head to the other. Just put some grease on the drill bit to keep any watermelon from going into the cylinder.
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Yep, if you turn the engine until the exhaust valve is fully open and blow through the spark plug hole you'll most likely be fine. Just don't confuse intake and exhaust valves.
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I wouldn't pull the head off for this fix. If it was a Staggerwing Beech I might do it different..or not.
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Originally posted by Casca
If it was a Staggerwing Beech I might do it different..or not.
:)
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Originally posted by Morpheus
he's not screwend LOL. I dont know why you think its that big of a deal. We've had friends break rods and sling **** all over the inside of the case. Pulled the pan from under the car, pulled out the busted rod and piston, cleaned all the meltal out and poped in a new one and the car ran fine for another 40k.
Yeah, you have to pull plugs when the heads are cold on alum heads. Like I said, an easy out, with some heavy grease on it to keep some of the metal from going inside, then blow out the cylinder and put a new plug in. You will be good to go. Its that simple. We've drilled new EGR passages on heads that were already on the car. They go RIGHT through one side of the head to the other. Just put some grease on the drill bit to keep any watermelon from going into the cylinder.
Morh,we are not talking about crankcase or rods,or EGR.Everyone knows that oil pan removed from under the egine not the top,lol
NOW,if spark plug broke off using the proper tool leaving thread portion in the head,then that cheap ars tool most likely will break as well.
He is not gonna use "snap on" or something good like that anyway,my advise is to remove the head in order to do clean nice job.If he'll do it your way,he will vandalize the thread end will and up buying new head with following removal the old one anyway
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Take a potato and ...wait..thats lightbulbs.
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Originally posted by Kimber1
The problem is the the plug is steel and the head is aluminum, putting those two metals togather with out some kind of insulater will result in the two being corroded togather. To keep this from happening again just put a litttle anti-seize in the treads of the plug before you install them.
I'd go further than that and strongly recommend using anti-seize compound on all spark plugs installed in any engine. Also, torque the plugs to factory specs using a torque wrench. After your next drive, allow the engine to cool to normal ambient temperature and recheck plug torque. Inasmuch as modern plugs have a very long life, doing this every few years is not a big hassle.
My regards,
Widewing
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Originally posted by KgB
Morh,we are not talking about crankcase or rods,or EGR.Everyone knows that oil pan removed from under the egine not the top,lol
NOW,if spark plug broke off using the proper tool leaving thread portion in the head,then that cheap ars tool most likely will break as well.
He is not gonna use "snap on" or something good like that anyway,my advise is to remove the head in order to do clean nice job.If he'll do it your way,he will vandalize the thread end will and up buying new head with following removal the old one anyway
wow aren't you the shmart one. I was using those examples to put this minor mishap he's had with his sparkplug into perspective.
For as much as you "think" you know, you dont know much do you. Where's the EGR passage again? mmmm think about it. Go do your homework sonny.
An ez-out is ot some "cheap ars" tool btw. For the size of the ez-out you'd need to pull a spark plug out, you'd never break it. Your advise to remove the head is just like any advise a dealer would offer if you were to take the car there. They'd rape you with the cost of pulling a head off. Draining the anti freeze, oil, make you pay for a new head gasket, intake gasket, manifold gasket, new oil, new anti freeze, labor, you name it. When all that could be prevented by going to a store and spending a few bucks on 1 bit.
I'm sure you took all that into consideration though right? I mean I didnt work on cars for a living or anything at one point. Or did I?
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Originally posted by Morpheus
wow aren't you the shmart one. I was using those examples to put this minor mishap he's had with his sparkplug into perspective.
For as much as you "think" you know, you dont know much do you. Where's the EGR passage again? mmmm think about it. Go do your homework sonny.
An ez-out is ot some "cheap ars" tool btw. For the size of the ez-out you'd need to pull a spark plug out, you'd never break it. Your advise to remove the head is just like any advise a dealer would offer if you were to take the car there. They'd rape you with the cost of pulling a head off. Draining the anti freeze, oil, make you pay for a new head gasket, intake gasket, manifold gasket, new oil, new anti freeze, labor, you name it. When all that could be prevented by going to a store and spending a few bucks on 1 bit.
I'm sure you took all that into consideration though right? I mean I didnt work on cars for a living or anything at one point. Or did I?
Sonny?Do your home work?
Watch your mouth kid,I'm older then you.
I do this for a living,i deal with this crap every day.If you were an "oil change boy" it doesn't make you a technician.
EGR is controlled bypass of exhaust back into intake,it does go thru the head but it doesn't connect directly with comb.chamber.by drilling or re tapping the stud/thread you not screwing with with the chamber,it's either before or after valves.
But you right about one thing,it doesn't hurt to try but it always good to know when to stop hacking.I should have mentioned that before,for that i apologize.
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If you broke it off so just the threads remain, then hit it with some good penetrating oil and take a break. Then get the biggest size ez out you can fit in there, (make sure you get it at least 1/3rd of the way deep up the ez out bit), and work with it. Be patient, grasshopper, if you break off the ez out you re screwed. Keep repeating the process. If you are getting nowhere, try heating up the ez out bit with a butane torch righ before you dig in. This may help break the mating between the plug and the engine block. Good luck, and no cussing.
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EGR is controlled bypass of exhaust back into intake,it does go thru the head but it doesn't connect directly with comb.chamber
SO let say that drillings fall on top of the valve. Where do they go when the valve opens up?
LOL service center doing brakes didnt teach you much did it.
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Originally posted by Widewing
I'd go further than that and strongly recommend using anti-seize compound on all spark plugs installed in any engine. Also, torque the plugs to factory specs using a torque wrench.
If you use anti-seize, you need to increase the torque a couple a pounds. I once ruined a aluminum head by using anti-seize and only torqueing to normal specs...the plugs backed out enough to oval out the plug holes, which eventually shot one of the plugs out of the head like a missile. Ended up having to helicoil all 4 plug holes.
BTW...I'm with KGB on this...pull the head. More than likely the threads are hosed anyway and will need repair. I think doing the ez-out will be tougher than it seems since a plug is not like a solid bolt...the threads are just a ring surrounding the plug core. I think it is probably likely that under enough strain to remove the remaining plug with an ez-out will cause the plug to come apart and drop bits into the combusiton chamber...again leading to head removal to clean up.
Since you have to pull the head and might as well have it re-built while it is off, you might consider having steel helicoils replace the aluminum threads on the plug holes...that way you can run any plug you like.
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Originally posted by Morpheus
SO let say that drillings fall on top of the valve. Where do they go when the valve opens up?
LOL service center doing brakes didnt teach you much did it.
Well, if the the drill shavings fall into the cylinder, get a magnet and get as much out as you can. I ve never been in this situation but have known a cupple of guys who have, and thye both managed to get them out without removing the head. They make several types of ez outs, some are designed not to have to go very deep into the object (sqauared ends), that way you can crush the ceramic and blow most of the bits out with compressed air, the spark end of the plug should keep all the big stuff out. I am not a car mechanic, but wouldnt the other stuff get blowed out the exhaust?
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Word from a couple of mechanics for a living type friends.....
If an EZ-out is used then use the SQUARE type which tends to use cutting into the metal to work vs the spiral type which tends to use more friction rather then cutting into the metal to work. Spiral type tends to cause the sparkplug ring of metal to expand and bind.
Be very very careful of ceramic material falling into chamber! It can and most likely will eat a valve as heat will do little to it and a magnet will not pick it up. Metal shaving IF SMALL will tend to blow out with the exhaust as the heat more readily affects the metal. Use a magnet to get out all metal particules that you can.
Remove any remaining ceramic material carefully. Use a drill on ceramic material only as the LAST resort. Do not use compressed air to remove the chips of ceramic material! Use a vaccum to remove any chips of ceramic particals.
It's frackin cold outside right now and raining off and on so, giving the penetrating oil more time to do it's job and waiting on the weather.
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I have found liquid wrench to be a very useful tool when working on things like that. While I am not quite sure exactly what is remaining in the head, it sounds like the ceramic is still connected to some piece of metal with threads. Try putting liquid wrench on the threaded area, give it several hours (or overnight) to soak and see if the offending plug will come out using your finger (or maybe some needle nose pliers).
Another alternative is to use an adhesive, such as JB weld to bond a rod onto the plug. Once the adhesive has set up, the rod can be turned with pliers to remove the plug. If that approach is used, don't put on liquid wrench until after the JB weld has cured.
If drilling the plug for the ez out looks like the best path, once you hit the ceramic it will break. If it doesn't fall into the cylinder you are good. If it does, then maybe a tube connected to a shop vacuum might get it out. A borescope would be very useful then.
Personally, if this isn't a diesel and the liquid wrench w/finger/pliers did work I'd just pull the head. While it may seem like a lot of work, you will never again put a steel plug into an aluminum head without anti-sieze. Of course, an alternative is to have the car towed to Bubba's garage where they will charge you $500+ for getting the plug out and may still leave debris in the cylinder.
Sometimes, what should be a very simple job turns out to be difficult.
Good Luck!
Malta
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Originally posted by wrag
Word from a couple of mechanics for a living type friends.....
If an EZ-out is used then use the SQUARE type which tends to use cutting into the metal to work vs the spiral type which tends to use more friction rather then cutting into the metal to work. Spiral type tends to cause the sparkplug ring of metal to expand and bind.
I've had the best luck with a fluted type extractor such as this (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?tool=&item_ID=10462&group_ID=1260&store=snapon-store)
A 14mm thread size is nominally 9/16" give or take so probably 7/16" would be the optimum size for the extractor. 1/2" would probably leave you a little short on wall thickness and make drilling a heart stopping operation.
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Originally posted by wrag
Do not use compressed air to remove the chips of ceramic material! Use a vaccum to remove any chips of ceramic particals.
Why? I'm sure the vacuum is a good solution, but I would definately blow it afterwards to be sure.
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Originally posted by Morpheus
SO let say that drillings fall on top of the valve. Where do they go when the valve opens up?
LOL service center doing brakes didnt teach you much did it.
:rofl
What is wrong with you Morph?
Who cares about "drilling's",at this point the "drilling's" is last thing he has to worry about.
I was talking about EGR stud re taping because you can repair it(re tap,re thread),
you can replace the stud with next size up for crying out loud.
If he "hacks" the spark plug thread what is he gonna do,healer coil it?:rofl
Stop arguing with me,you embarrassing yourself.
Oh yeah,I'm ASE,BMW certified master technician,and who the hell are you?
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Originally posted by Morpheus
SO let say that drillings fall on top of the valve. Where do they go when the valve opens up?
LOL service center doing brakes didnt teach you much did it.
Like i said,you need to stop Morph:D
Originally posted by WhiteHawk
I am not a car mechanic, but wouldnt the other stuff get blowed out the exhaust?
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Who cares about "drilling's",at this point the "drilling's" is last thing he has to worry about.I was talking about EGR stud re taping because you can repair it(re tap,re thread),
you can replace the stud with next size up for crying out loud.
Hmmm, when and where did I mention stud? I was talking about the passage that goes from one side of the head into the other, the chamber. Which is found on for small block heads along with many other heads out there... which then gos into the intake. No stud there genious. Stop trolling, ignorant trolls are the worst. They just make you look stupider than you already are.
Oh yeah,I'm ASE,BMW certified master technician,and who the hell are you?
You sound alot like MrBlack, you going to show us picturs of your crib next? Or I know, fake copies of a tech school diploma. ROFL.
For being ASE certified they sure dont teach you much these days I guess. :lol Studded EGR passages?
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Originally posted by crowMAW
If you use anti-seize, you need to increase the torque a couple a pounds. I once ruined a aluminum head by using anti-seize and only torqueing to normal specs...the plugs backed out enough to oval out the plug holes, which eventually shot one of the plugs out of the head like a missile. Ended up having to helicoil all 4 plug holes.
That's why I suggest a retorque after the first thermal cycle, as you will find the plugs will no longer be at factory spec. They should stabilize after that.
By the way, there are some new graphite based sprays that are excellent for prepping spark plugs threads. However, I still recommend retorqueing after applying any type of anti-seize or thread prep.
As a side note, I've seen mechanics vacuum out spark plug ceramic using a shop vac with a jury-rigged tube adapter. They would rotate the crankshaft manually until an exhaust valve was partially open. Personally, if I had a spark plug come apart, I'd yank the head. I'd chase the thread and check it with a go/no-go gauge. If the thread is damaged, take it to a good engine shop and have them drill it out and install a Heli-coil. I've done this with my old '58 Alfa. All four threads were simply worn out from age and use and it spit out a plug one afternoon. I've also had to do the same thing to a Cosworth BDA head.
My regards,
Widewing
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healer coil it
Forgot this part. Its Helicoil Mr ASE.
Freak'n hick.
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Forgot this part. Its Helicoil Mr ASE.Freak'n hick.
I think freak'n hicks everywere have now been insulted:rolleyes:
You sound alot like MrBlack, you going to show us picturs of your crib next? Or I know, fake copies of a tech school diploma. ROFL.
dont forget pics of the obligatory .50cal
and sniper certifications
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Originally posted by WilldCrd
I think freak'n hicks everywere have now been insulted:rolleyes:
dont forget pics of the obligatory .50cal
and sniper certifications
All true, lol.. Good points right there. Substitute Hick for moron and we're good to go.
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Originally posted by Morpheus
All true, lol.. Good points right there. Substitute Hick for moron and we're good to go.
I have know KgB for quite some time. A very nice and helpful person who doesnt deserve to be bashed by anyone. I can vouch and tell you he is no Mr. Black, the farthest thing from fact.
As a certified mechanic he is giving sound advise. The best thing to do is to remove the head pull the plug, check the threads and do what is required.
You call him a hick/moron and your wanting wrag to risk doing further damage to his engine. Suppose he does what you say, leaves some ceramic/metal inside the cylinder and then runs the engine damages the valves or causes other problems.
Yes you could take it to buba or any other shade tree and maybe pull the plug. I myself as a shadetree/hick would give the ez-out a go. If I did drop anything or even had a doubt that something was lost inside, the head would be pulled. I would also worry about damaging exposed threads(If there are any) with the tool.
KgB's advise is far from moronic... if you disagree that he is giving sound advise then I would say the moron in the conversation is not KGB.
Could "healer coil" be some undetected sarchasm??
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You didn't say what cylinder your talikn about, so I'll guess it's #1, closest to the firewall & hardest to reach.
If that's the case, pull the head. It will be much easier to work on, or, if you have to take to somewhere.
Get it done right the first time, nothing to worry about, & an engine that will last another 22 years.
Good luck.
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On older engines there are external EGR pipes and also studs on the head/intake manifold IIRC. On newer engines there are passages inside the head and "EGR plates" between the head and the manifolds to optimize exhaust gas distribution.
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Originally posted by Morpheus
Hmmm, when and where did I mention stud? I was talking about the passage that goes from one side of the head into the other, the chamber. Which is found on for small block heads along with many other heads out there... which then gos into the intake. No stud there genious. Stop trolling, ignorant trolls are the worst. They just make you look stupider than you already are.
You sound alot like MrBlack, you going to show us picturs of your crib next? Or I know, fake copies of a tech school diploma. ROFL.
For being ASE certified they sure dont teach you much these days I guess. :lol Studded EGR passages?
Ok Mr.Rodriges autobody.
EGR valves (the ones that on heads) held by studs,you kretin.
I spoke of studs becouse only morons like you would actualy drill the passage itself.
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LOL!
You have NO idea do you?
Order a set of race heads from say, AFR, see how many of them come already drilled for emisions chit. Heads from AFR, and other companies like World Products must be drilled through if you plan on driving it on the street and have any chance of going through and passing emisions. Yep that's right you assuming moron. I know you dont get to play much with the brighter side of cars, what with doing brake jobs at jiffy lube, so I'm going easy on you.
Being the ASE cert'd car Genious that you make yourself out to be, again, you're really pretty dumb aren't ya?
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I'm sorry, I dont have any pictures for you. I realize its probably difficult for you otherwise.
http://www.worldcastings.com/tech/windsorjrcylinderheads.doc
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Originally posted by jab116
You didn't say what cylinder your talikn about, so I'll guess it's #1, closest to the firewall & hardest to reach.
If that's the case, pull the head. It will be much easier to work on, or, if you have to take to somewhere.
Get it done right the first time, nothing to worry about, & an engine that will last another 22 years.
Good luck.
hmmm.......
To my recollection number 1 is always the front cylinder?
It's the number 2 cylinder, second from the front.
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Originally posted by wrag
hmmm.......
To my recollection number 1 is always the front cylinder?
It's the number 2 cylinder, second from the front.
#1 is usually closest to the camshaft belt/chain/gears, no matter which way the engine is fitted. In an older Saab the #1 is closest to the firewall, which is very rare. In a V-engine it's usually closest on the left bank IIRC.
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Originally posted by Morpheus
LOL!
You have NO idea do you?
Order a set of race heads from say, AFR, see how many of them come already drilled for emisions chit. Heads from AFR, and other companies like World Products must be drilled through if you plan on driving it on the street and have any chance of going through and passing emisions. Yep that's right you assuming moron. I know you dont get to play much with the brighter side of cars, what with doing brake jobs at jiffy lube, so I'm going easy on you.
Being the ASE cert'd car Genious that you make yourself out to be, again, you're really pretty dumb aren't ya?
I knew it,the racing crap.
Cars that on production line don't need to be drilled the crap out of them honey.
Now where were we?
Oh yeah.
"To begin, the heads will need to be disassembled before drilling."
You never read this part did you kid?
Why did you skip the stud repairing comment?
For your power drill oriented mind I'm gonna have to make it simple....
You can repair/replace thread/stud on almost any surface except the spark plug thread.
Your linguistic skills won't help you fix anything,unless you fix it with your mouth.
Why don't you go suck on that Chinese racing muffler that on your car,you big mouth should be able to fit the biggest diameter in it.
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LOL you can't helicoil plug threads now? since when? I've seen a dozen cars with a plug that was helicoiled in, and it worked fine for years.
You have to be that same loud mouth KGB in the MA. It makes perfect sense now. The one who knows everything about anything.
My point in mentioning not removing and disasembling the heads to install/drill the egr ports/passages was to put this stupid little sparkplug problem into perspective. Idiots like you are telling him to go run to the local hack shop like you work at and drop a load of bills to do something that could be done in his garage in a few hours, if that. But the BS you feed people is what keeps hack shops like the one you work at in business.
Why did I skip the stud comment? Because it has nothing to do with anything. Just another line of BS from you. MrBlack Jr here, im sure of it.
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Originally posted by Morpheus
LOL you can't helicoil plug threads now? since when? I've seen a dozen cars with a plug that was helicoiled in, and it worked fine for years.
You have to be that same loud mouth KGB in the MA. It makes perfect sense now. The one who knows everything about anything.
Helicoil plug threads....must be one of yours "Fast and Furios" fixes.
Yes,i know you gonna call it fake,but why do i even you bother?
BTW i rearely open my mouth in MA,unlike you.
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Hmmm...........
How did this get taken personal??????
FYI my history contains C.E.R. Certification for the Lycoming T53- L - 11 to 13 engines and the G.E. T76 engine. U.S.M.C. schooling at Camp Pendelton.
My Primary M.O.S. was 6124.
I was also a crewchief/doorgunner for Hueys.
Later became RedCross certified in emergency medical by order of my OIC at Yuma Arizona S.A.R. we used HH-1K's. I was also left seat/crewchief there. I later became N.C.O.I.C. of night crew maintanence Sgt/E5. We worked on all aircraft all systems.
I've been a certified Volkswagon Mech and worked at Orange County VW.
I've also been a motorcycle mechanic.
I've been a mechanic much of my life. I just got tired of the constant aching, dirty, and injured hands I had all the time, and the E.P.A. stuff and the computerization of everything. That and the V.A. decided I'm partially disable with Agent Orange related issues. These are things I've been informed I may not do for a living.....No prolonged standing, sitting, No heavy lifting, No driveing all day long.
I own 84 and 82 Toyota trucks, both 4x4, because I can work on them with out all the computerized equipment.
I put this thread in because I ALWAYS try to find a better way of doing such work. From time to time new or rehash of old information is a BIG help to me.
Opinions were SOUGHT by me regarding a broken off, flush with the head, sparkplug, I was not looking to start a fight or any of this to become personal.
For those that responeded with information I thank YOU!
I bought some PB Blast. But already used some Breaksfree as well. Taking my time here. Don't want to add any great expense to this situation.
For any that may have further INFO please post.
As to the personal issues stuff, please stop.
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I didnt start it,Morph got offended and went off for some reason.
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LOL Right.
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Originally posted by KgB
Helicoil plug threads....must be one of yours "Fast and Furios" fixes.
Yes,i know you gonna call it fake,but why do i even you bother?
BTW i rearely open my mouth in MA,unlike you.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/N22/Picture001.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/N22/Picture002.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v676/N22/Picture003.jpg)
Name Title Retailer
Atalian, Alex Technician [ST202] Inskip BMW [26703]
Course Seq Status Date
[DL039] EML IIIS: AN OVERVIEW 111 Completed 02/12/02
[WB050] TECHNICAL SYSTEMS Completed 04/14/02
[OL117] REVOLUTIONARY 7 SERIES INNOVATIONS Completed 04/15/02
[ST050] TECHNICAL SYSTEMS 201 Completed 04/29/02
[ST051] BODY ELECTRICAL/ELECTRONICS I 178 Completed 09/09/02
[ST052] BODY ELECTRONICS II 197 Completed 01/13/03
[IP015] ENGINE ELECTRONICS Completed 10/13/03
[ST055] ENGINE ELECTRONICS 205 Cancelled 11/03/03
[ST055] ENGINE ELECTRONICS 213 Completed 03/01/04
[VI284] SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 2/04 14 Completed 03/10/04
[VI296] SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 3/04 19 Completed 03/29/04
[VI313] SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 5/04 3 Completed 05/21/04
[VI324] SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 6/04 7 Completed 06/28/04
[ST048] X3 COMPLETE VEHICLE 182 Cancelled 07/21/04
[ST036] X5 COMPLETE VEHICLE 309 No Show 09/09/04
[VI345] THE SERVICE ROUNDTABLE 9/04 7 Completed 10/01/04
BMW Technician TECH SYS II ST050 X
Certified Technician BODY ELECTRONICS I ST051 X
Certified Technician BODY ELECTRONICS II ST052 X
Certified Technician ENGINE ELECTRONICS ST055 X
Diagnostic Technician CLIMATE CONTROL F & D ST054
Diagnostic Technician E46 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST034
Diagnostic Technician X5 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST036
Master Technician 2004 SYSTEMS DIAGNOSIS ST049
Master Technician CHASSIS DYNAMICS ST056
Master Technician E39/M5 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST037
Master Technician E46/M3 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST041
Master Technician E60 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST046
Master Technician E63/4 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST064
Master Technician E65 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST042
Master Technician E85 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST045
Master Technician ELECTRONIC TRANSMISSION ST057
Master Technician X3 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST048
Z8 COMPLETE VEHICLE ST038
LMAO MrBlack.
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OK got the broke off plug out.
Used Breaksfree at 1st then went to PBblaster.
Used the square EZout.
Got the ceramic material out.
First 2 tries I just shaved off metal from the inside of the plug.
Thrid try it started to move in very tiny pops?????
Took awhile but I got it out.
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Originally posted by wrag
OK got the broke off plug out.
Used Breaksfree at 1st then went to PBblaster.
Used the square EZout.
Got the ceramic material out.
First 2 tries I just shaved off metal from the inside of the plug.
Thrid try it started to move in very tiny pops?????
Took awhile but I got it out.
hehe, use heat resistant antisieze, and a torque wrench if you dont know your own strenght, this time.:aok